tinkergnome

Ok, the explanation for the latter is: The use of the EEPROM was a fragile hack in my early firmware attempts. There was no proper versioning in the beginning and this resulted in a certain probability to read uninitialized values from the memory (especially if one skipped one or another version...). This should be solved in more recent versions. A version number is stored besides the data and the settings are initialized with defaults if the stored version does not match. The same occurs on a factory reset. Some start adresses: 0x64 - (inherited) Marlin configuration store - this is always stored "all in once", the homing offsets are stored in the array "add_homing" 0x400 - FIRST_RUN_DONE - a flag to indicate a completed "First run wizard" 0x401 - start of the "tinker" memory area 0x700 - lifetime statistics (accumulated printing time) 0x800 - Ultimaker material settings I think, that's it. You can use the links as a starting point if you want to dive into...

An "USB printing" screen with some (hopefully useful...) informations is implemented in V15.12 You can give it a try, if you like.

Well, the first part has finished... Don't be in such a hurry!

Your assembly looks not good. There must be no gap between the steel nut and the aluminium plate. And maybe it's only the perspective, but it seems that the nozzle and the PTFE coupler does not building a straight line. Both is essential! I assume, that you have some serious leaking inside the filament path now. You have to take it apart (again) and make sure that all parts are really clean before you assemble it again. There has to be a perfect fit between all parts (heater block, steel nut, I2K and PTFE coupler) - any gap somewhere and you're lost... In contrast: there _has_ to be a gap between the heater block and the fan shroud. It's not visible on your photo but perhaps the whole heater block is stucked somewhere? How does it look from the back side?

Thanks for the explanation, and keep in mind that the chance to loose steps increases with an overheated stepper driver... Don't forget to make some additional printing tests with _lower_ current. Good luck!

*sigh* https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L266 #define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170 M302: Allow cold extrudes You're talking about an Ultimaker2, right? M907 changes the motor current, but AFAIK there is no linearly dependency between torque and current. What are you trying to prove....and why...? (just curious)

@atooltoscream Sorry, but can you share some more informations? - Which printer profile do you use within Cura? - How does your start gcode looks like? A short google search found this example profile for the Micro 3D ...and the Airwolf FAQ mentions a "recommended profile" for Cura "provided on the USB drive received with your printer"... Have you tried this already? Anyway... it's just my personal thought, but i assume the Cura developers can only make a guess about your printer(s). Perhaps the linked sites are a better place to ask...?

Providing that you use the (standard) gcode flavor "UltiGcode", the Ultimaker2 uses volumetric values for the E-axis....and so does the Pause at z plugin (i think...). You have to calculate the retraction amount for the plugin in cubic millimeter. If i remember right, the change material wizard retracts the filament 20mm at the end of the procedure. The solution for me was to increase the plugin value "Retraction amount" to approx.128 (for a filament diameter of 2.85mm). This compensates the 20mm retract when you resume the print.

The dripped pattern during travel moves looks conspicuous... Are the retractions really working? The bowden must not move during retractions (check both mounted sides). What about the retraction details? Can you report the Cura settings? Perhaps you can increase the retraction amount or change the retraction speed (or both...)? And the horizontal skins are still non-uniform... Have you tried to tighten the belts (even more)?

Is this still sliced with Cura? Then you should use the "No Skin" option for Combing. I suggest this as a starting point: In addtion: the extrusion looks quite unbalanced, there is serious underextrusion on some parts of the skin. You mentioned in your first post that this happens after retractions... and gets worse after lot of retractions? I assume that this is somewhere hardware related.... perhaps some backlash in the feeder...? (i'm not familar with the UO feeder...) Anyway - you should definitely get rid of this first...

The heated chamber is only a spin-off... and can (for sure) be achieved with much simpler approaches. The main feature of this enclosure is the "Scrubber Filter" (filtering of ultrafine particles) - especially for ABS printing. The question is: is it worth the extra room / money / weight (40kg !!) on the desktop? It's not very clear from the description - can the heat be dissipated from the chamber in any way? Edit: they are talking about 95F (35°C ?) as enclosure temperature in the description of the "Rapid Heat Kit". A temperature in this range should not hurt?

Yep, if this is a "fresh assembled" printer - upload the correct firmware with Cura and don't forget a subsequent "Control" -> "Restore failsafe" and "Control" -> "Store memory" (on the UltiController). This will set the correct values for steps/mm (amongst other things).

May i suggest as a starting point....: decrease the layer height to 0.3 (max.) - and use the same for the first layer (100% height and 50% speed) increase the printing speed instead (40mm/s should be possible) use more intermediate steps for the fan (don't go up from 0 to 100 in one single step) 80% for the three "underspeed" settings - no need to go too low here use a bit heigher temperatures for XT (245° - 250° results in a better layer bonding) Edit: ...and lower the fan speed for XT (for the same reason) - you probably don't need more than 30% (except for bad overhangs or bridging).

Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies. The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all.

The wall is way too thin... Cura slices it if you choose a nozzle diameter of 0.2 or less. I think it's not a reasonable print... Look at the comments on thingiverse... you're not alone...

The start looks quite good to me... S3D doesn't use the firmware retractions, but generates it's own gcode sequences. Your best options: show us the retraction settings "play" with "Extra Restart Distance", "Coast" and "Wipe" slice it with Cura (just to eliminate a slicing problem) Edit: probably it's better to try this in reversed order...?

Hi Didier, i also suspect a problem with the saved settings, probably missing or wrong values for the print area? I noticed recently that this can occur, especially if you skipped one or another release... I made some changes on this for the next version - it should be more stable for the future. Good to hear that you already found the right solution.

; layerHeight,0.25; firstLayerHeightPercentage,250 This ends up at a first layer height of 0.625mm - really? But highly suspicious for your problems is the first line of your start gcode: M907 E1400 ; increase extruder current Why do you do this....? The extruder motor will get much hotter than normal with the increased current. A good source for grinded filament - i think?

any efforts? - yes any progress? - i hope so... I think you can test it soon... stay tuned... - i need some sleep first...

Another wild guess... Can you make screenshots of your Simplify3D settings? Esp. the "Extruder", "Other" and "Advanced" tab? Or post the head lines from the gcode file?

Cool... and already the first accidental use case... That's why it's called the "tinker" firmware...

I don't think so.... this would be called "nanostepping"... (probably...) Here is a short explanation from the original inventor: It's "hidden" behind the Z-position on the printing screen. @rooiejoris pointed me to this recently. If you like, try it out.

mm-hmm, what is your starting point / previous knowledge? Some links: How to compile Marlin Firmware Get the simulator up and running, this and this. Code::Blocks Git The tinker fork on GitHub

Actually only the "new one" is an I2K + DupTef, the "used one" is I2K + PTFE Coupler (from the Ultimaker shop). No TF2K yet - but it's a thing to consider... The "DupTef" has disappeared from the 3dSolex shop anyway...