tinkergnome

Hallo Sebastian, was empfiehlt denn der Hersteller als Temperatur für das Heizbett, und wieviel Lüfter? Erstere vermutlich so hoch wie möglich (>= 100°C), letzteres so wenig wie möglich? Die PLA-Einstellungen sind da definitiv ungeeignet. Wenn Blue-Tape explizit empfohlen wird, geht es möglicherweise ohne spezielle "Klebehilfe" trotzdem nicht. Wenn es sich mit dem Klebestift schon ein wenig in die richtige Richtung entwickelt hat, könntest Du 3DLac oder DimaFix versuchen. Für Colorfabb HT funktioniert das gut, ich weiß aber nicht, ob das Material vergleichbar ist.

That's suspicious. Perhaps it "warps" because the bottom part of the printed object stays too soft. What's the height of the first layer? Do you use any glue? It's probably better to reduce the temperature of the heated bed after a few layers. You can start with 65°C (for a good first layer adhesion) and reduce it to 55° (or even lower) from layer 3 or 4 upwards. If this makes a difference...? You will know it in - let's say - 7 hours...

Yep. @Shane: How familiar are you with git? In short: clone the repository and switch to the correct branch (as @neotko said). You can download the zip-file from Github instead, but then you also have to choose the correct branch first. The "uncompiled" version for the UM2 extended+ is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/tree/UM2.1_JarJarExtended The most important difference is the build volume in Configuration.h Have fun!

Es sieht so aus, als würde der Maximalwert auch in der Standard-Firmware demnächst wieder auf 115°C angehoben. Bei der nächsten Cura-Version ist dann vermutlich auch wieder eine aktualisierte Firmware dabei, es gibt also noch Hoffnung für alle ABS-Junkies... Das hier ist der zugehörige Git-Commit

The firmware sources are on GitHub: Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware You _can_ edit it with the Arduino IDE, but using Code:Blocks with the included project file (and the simulator) is much more convenient.

No - i'm not involved at all... (on purpose) As far as i can see, the lack of support is not the only problem... In addition the download links for the firmware are non-functional (online installation guide) @Shane You can get some files, if you use the following links. But i have no clue, if this stuff is useful for you...? For Firefox browsers: with the right mouse button and "Save target as..." (or the similar function on others browsers) Ulticreatr 2X firmware for Ultimaker 2(+) http://ulti.creatr.it/en/support/2x/Ultimaker-2-Ulticreatr-2X-v1-1.hex Ulticreatr 2X firmware for Ultimaker 2 Extended(+) http://ulti.creatr.it/en/support/2x/Ultimaker-2Extended-Ulticreatr-2X-v1-1.hex And - as you already know: No more heated buildplate after you've installed this kit. I'm not sure, if a bigger power supply is sufficient to solve this problem. The kit includes the bluetape for a reason...

Some explaining details: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19619-ulti-evening-maintenance https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/11704-extrusion-problems https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/250-disassembly

in addition: - all three fans of the printhead are operational? Printing times of 30 hours and more are not uncommon, the machine can handle long prints without problems (if it is in a good condition...)

Oh, sure- @toms_tk - don't wanted to banish you... don't worry. It's just a bit harder to give you hints, because no one knows which parts are assembled inside of this beautiful piece of art... I assume that you'll notice additional issues soon. Just ask - George will do it's best!

Obviously that's not a new printer, isn't it? Or perhaps even a good looking copy? Just to be sure: can you make a picture of the manufacurer label (on the bottom of the printer)? At least the fan shroud looks a bit weird. It's bended and the fans are looking bigger than the original ones. Is it possible that the printhead just hits the left wall instead of the limit switch? Edit: the encoder knob is suspicious too and it's missing the "Extended" label on the back of the buildplate. To be honest: i think it's not an Ultimaker at all... where did you get it from ? You should ask your reseller for help!

492.45 steps/mm und 50 mm/s "FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED" In der Tinker sind es ungefähr 54 mm/s (26.500 / 492,45), das sollte keinen großen Unterschied machen.

Was sind das denn für Düsen? Die "normalen" von E3D oder irgendwas anderes? Nicht jede Düsengeometrie ist gut geeignet für Überhänge... Anderes Material hast Du ja schon ausprobiert. Hast Du auch noch andere Düsen da, dann wäre das noch einen Versuch wert. Auf jeden Fall würdest Du dann sehen, ob es einen Unterschied gibt (egal in welche Richtung... )

UltiGCode uses volumetric e-values, i assume, that you have changed the GCode-Flavor in Cura to "Reprap/Marlin", right? The remaining problem is, that Octoprint has (obviously) no clue about the temperatures that you have defined in Cura (as Mark Walker said: this part is executed after the start script from Octoprint). You can add values for M109 and M190 to your Octoprint script, but only with fixed values that you have to change for different materials. As an alternative: you can (pre-) heat buildplate and nozzle manually with Octoprint before you start the print. But that's sooo inconvenient..., and i'm still not sure about your intention...? It's so much easier to use the start/end-code from within the slicer.

Naja, jetzt stimmt das Build-Volume noch nicht... Abgesehen davon, sind das IMHO "nur" die Werte, die Octoprint benutzt, wenn Du auch damit sliced (also für die mitgelieferte CuraEngine). Für den "Normal"-Betrieb als Drucker-Server sind die Werte nicht relevant (jedenfalls soweit ich das verstehe...)

It depends... I'm not aware of a "ready to use" tool, that fits your needs. Perhaps pronterface would be a good starting point for your work. It has a graphical user interface, but a terminal window as well. Perhaps you can use the terminal window to test the approach and the "pronsole" part (and some additional scripting) for automation and recording. It's open source - so at least you should be able to get some suggestions how to connect to the printer and send/receive commands. How are your programming skills?

A good start would be the RepRapWiki, perhaps the "Marlin firmware user guide for beginners" (if you like). At last but not least... the sourcecode: This is the Marlin version from Ultimaker for the UM2+ printers.

Well.... briefly: Assuming that you're talking about a printer with Marlin firmware: establish a serial connection to the printer with the correct baudrate send gcode M105 resp. M114 parse the response What's your intention? Have you tried it already?

Well, it's no universal solution for all failed prints... It works the same way like you would do it manually: skip all layers until the specified height is reached and start printing from there. And don't forget to make sure, that the heated bed stays hot all the time (immediately heatup the buildplate after the print is aborted). I rarely have a need for it, but just in case: You can use the "Move axis" function (or pronterface) to determine the correct z-height. Home all axis, move the (cold!) nozzle above a suitable spot of the printed object and move the buildplate upwards until the nozzle touches the last (fully) printed layer.

In more recent firmware versions some of the error messages are amended by a (short-) link to the corresponding troubleshooting webpage. That's what these numbers are good for: ultimaker.com/ER01 Temp sensor ultimaker.com/ER02 Temp sensor BED ultimaker.com/ER03 Heater error ultimaker.com/ER04 Safety circuit ultimaker.com/ER05 Z switch broken ultimaker.com/ER06 Z switch stuck ultimaker.com/ER07 X or Y switch broken / stuck ultimaker.com/ER08 Error while reading SD-card These are shortcuts to a specific page from this list: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/troubleshooting/error-messages There are instructions for (DIY) diagnose and a lot of pictures. Very handy - just in case...

It's only a suspicion a.t.m., but i think the M92 confuses the planner and a subsequent G92 is the correct 'workaround'. Good work!

I tend to use this one as a confirmation...

I use the same source files for all variants, that's the reason why the e-steps stay on the (wrong) value of 282 for upgraded printers. It's the first time that someone noticed this... I'll put it on the todo list for future releases. And yes: there's no (implicit) factory reset, if you already have installed any 'plus' firmware before (no matter, if the old or the new one is the standard or the tinker version).

well, you want to make it public later - ask yourself how much time you can invest, and how many years you are able to maintain it... ...and after that: have fun making it! If you're interested in my opinion... I like the icons, but i would prefer a main menu, where i can see all possible option without scrolling. The structure of menu options is always a matter of personal taste, and how the printer is used. E.g.: If someone prints only via USB, he don't needs the 'Print' menu, but instead more control options during printing. If someone don't uses Cura or UltiGcode, he never uses 'Material Settings'... If someone often changes nozzles, he would prefer a simpler way to adjust the distance to the buildplate... ...and so on... I would recommend: just use a structure that fits your own needs (or find a way to make it configurable at runtime...)

'while printing' is where the fun starts ...and very useful to tune the distance between nozzle and buildplate while it prints the skirt/brim.

My suspicion is that this happens, if the command buffer runs empty. And the probability for this is much higher on longer prints with many (and small) line segments.