kmanstudios

AFAIK this was fixed for the final Cura 2.7 by @Nallath. It should be out "real soon now" . I can wait. I know that nallath followed a thread and was active in the way it got dissected online. I was just curious as I had the issue crop today with something I was working. It rattled around the void of me noggin and then came out here.

Just to add to that, Has the annoying problem of projects importing and creating additional machines been taken care of? It even happens when I bring in a project created from scratch in the current version. Or tell it to just use the current machine?

That does look nice and clean. Just out of curiosity, how did the printing go? Any tips on settings that you used? I read the settings on YM, but am curious about your impression of the filament, starting point (which profile did you choose), ease of printing....silly things like that.

I have never seen something like 96 minutes. 59 yes, but nothing more than that. 96 minutes a typo? the rest is odd too as most of my times have been pretty much spot on.

While I found this same error in current release (not beta) my work around has been to make sure I do not let it close with "Save to Removable". The odd part is that even when ejecting the drive properly through windows, it does not revert back to "Save to File." It sees the drive going in but not going out.

I can understand the sleep thing after all that flying. I bet yer arms will be tired!! Buh Dum PSSShhhhhhhhh Joking aside, I look forward to meeting with anybody who is there. Just know I am socially awkward. Tend to be the fly on the wall and observe. And, there will be much to take in at the whole shebang.

I will give it a try. I'm kind of limited where I can put the printer, which is why I built the enclosure, but will look at alternate solutions. With the clearance I provided around the sides and top, I didn't think it would be any different than the "Advanced Printing Kit" sold by Ultimaker. I have actually had an enclosure on the front cause a print to fail from too much heat build up. By the way, love the box....you should call it 'Bender' And put a word balloon on it saying, "You can kiss my shiny metal print!"

I see the guest list, but will anybody, with whom I have had the pleasure of reading here, be there? And a chance to win 3D Printer? Yeah, even a hermit such as myself will attend!!

I am on my way out without time to evaluate, but will check when I get out. In the meanwhile, it should help the real gurus here. I am just a noob with a bit more experience than you at this time. Not much more, mind you, but just trying to help.

When you took it out, did it perform as expected and then get worse or just stay bad in response to printing needs. If it started out ok, then it points towards the filament just starting out dry and then getting moisturized again. And, humidity can be a factor in the machine as well as it can affect the bowden tube friction as well as other connection issues such as feeder slipping or starting to grind on softened filament creating a buildup in the knurling pattern.

Not eliminated altogether, but somewhat discounted. I was able to use the same filament on a TAZ6 to print the same model with no problems. That would lead me to believe it's not the filament. Not to excuse the UM3, but different machines have different tolerances. To find out if it is machine specific, have you tried taking the machine home for a few days to equalize the humidity in filament and machine? Placing the filament on a different machine can only quantify if it is working on that other machine. Not if you have a UM3 that is defective. In high end electronics, it is easy for something to go awry in manufacturing, shipping etc. To be fair though, I am starting to lean towards defective machine as I was able to test the model with no issues on a UM3 using the same material, but not same brand.

I would suggest taking a screenshot of the settings panel. That would be easiest. And it may show whether you need to 'unhide' some of the other controls that could be at play.

Sounds more like a humidity issue if it starts out fine and then gets progressively worse. Tweaking settings can only compensate for so much as humidity can collect and get more problematic as time goes by.

Sketchup is notorious for not creating watertight models. And, it is not their focus of usage. I do not think they are keeping up with the format specs as STL and 3D Printing in general keep getting more exact. There is supposed to be a plugin that helps with this though. But, as a non sketchup user, I am not familiar with the thing itself as I have only seen reference to it here.

I saw the images in the google folder. But I am curious about your settings. That would affect a lot. Can you post an image of your settings as well?

Yes this is easy done but you still can't get away from Cura's travel problems unless you turn combing off and have it z hop on retract which isn't the nicest for every case. Yeah, that is still looming on my horizon and why I tend to see things a bit different. Not that I disagree, just saying it is not part of my experience yet as I am still learning bunches o' bunches and bunches o' bunches to learn yet. Still da clumsy noob when ya get down to it.

Just as an aside, I am using the quick infill to give me a bit of an 'ice' look inside my transparent objects in certain cases. Actually has a nice, crusty, frosty look. Other times, I have just slowed down the infill to get a cleaner output when visible by design.

There is a complex master model from different parts for silicone pouring. We need a part from PVA to separate silicone model from other parts. It is hard to describe. I will post a link to the work when it is ready. Sounds like a form of 'lost wax' if I read this correctly. Lordy, I luv to see and experience out of the routine thinking in the morning......smells like,,,'victory.' wait....wrong movie

Thank you also from da clumsy noob. That is a new filament for me to check out. And it is available from a couple of places in the US, so that helps.

To be sure I understand this: Model = nozzle 1 (PLA for example) Brim = nozzle 1 (Same PLA) No support = no nozzles employed because only brim and model are using nozzle 1 The reason I ask is that I know I have done that setup before and it did prime the PVA nozzle (#2) and then go back to printing with nozzle 1 from that point on. Usually, I am using PVA as my brim, unless a material needs its own material such as PC and I have not used that as an option for a while. Almost all prints within recent memory have used a PVA brim at least. Edit: In the desire to be complete, I would like to add that it may have been on an earlier version of Cura and/or firmware. Currently up to date on both (Not beta) and I just started a 3.3 day print, so I cannot test it to confirm if it still happens.

What are you using for your support material? If you are using the same material, it will not be smooth as, I believe and have seen on my experiments, it does not create a smooth interface between support and model. If it did, you would not get it apart. All prints I have done using the same materials have had a bit of roughness because of the gaps and attachments between support and model. If you are using PVA in conjunction with another material, you should get a decent interface. The only time this has not proven true is when I scrimp a bit on the amount of support and it, itself, is not smooth (pillowing, too large a gap/not enough density) and I usually put that in a place that is not seen or needing to be smooth. An example of that would be the inside of a casing that is not needing that level of detail.

While DidierKlein gave a great answer, I am curious about how you will use this. Basically, the description is intriguing.

Zowie!! Done in by a protective measure! Whodathunkit? For non-native English speakers, or those not familiar with the slang, that means "Who would have thought of that?" Apparently you did! How is it working now?

Ditto and, I for one, am unanimous in this

Cut it up in a 3D Package? Use the Pause at height plugin to stop the printing at a certain height? But, I would just turn it around and let the flat part sit on the plate and be super smooth.