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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. kmanstudios
    You can also just click on "Hollow out objects" in the experimental section. It allows for the printing of supports. But you cannot have your infill set to zero. It takes that infill number and applies it to a PVA support system inside the object.
  2. kmanstudios
    I have had to use an airbrush needle sometimes to get the main clog out and then use a bit of a 'pumping or plunging' action on the cleaning filament to get to break stuff loose. Be careful sticking something in there as you can flare out the nozzle ends if you are not careful or scratch the interior making it grab the plastics much more later on.
  3. kmanstudios
    I was wondering if he meant pillowing.....did not occur to me to think of 'hairy'.
  4. kmanstudios
    More information about "Julia's Dragon"

    Version 1.0

    564 downloads

    Made entirely of fractals in the Julia Set in one aspect or another. Really kicked me in the heiny as it took a month to print with failures and other issues such as being a 4.5 day long print. Usually would fail at 4 days then the PVA would get too humid and not support the top and got nothing but bunches of spaghetti. The next to last version did ok, but had a design flaw and could not support the weight of the top flyer. Did redesign and now sturdy. Varied the density by splitting the model and overlapping areas so that the bottom had more walls and infill and the top part of the flyer had less walls and lower infill to lessen weight. Used 'Per Model Settings" to accomplish it. Used ColorFabb Leaf Green PLA in standard settings. I did slow the print a bit to reduce stringing. Images are basically untouched as I just trimmed the brim off and pulled a few squirelleys off the leading edges in case of build-up. Did have to trim a few built up parts off as it would curl up and I could hear it whack the printhead nozzle on the print. But it finally printed and after a month of printing, I am finally on a different model.
  5. kmanstudios
    Try the "print thin walls" option in the hidden tabs. You can open preferences and unhide a ton of settings I see you still have hidden.
  6. kmanstudios
    I have not been able to set the BB core to anything but PVA as that is a very specific design. And, I believe that HIPS would be more akin to regular plastic and not a PVA.
  7. kmanstudios
    Picture would be helpful as 'fluffy' would be a term I have not seen applied.....
  8. kmanstudios
    As I look at your images, it seems your dry box has stopped the softening of the materials so that it no longer coils or compresses in your feeder. Is this correct? As for it being ground and cut into, have you tried to adjust your feeder tension? Also, have you blown out the filament dust in the unit? Here is a link that will help with that. Also, if your feeder unit has ground up materials into the knurled wheel inside the feeder, it may be making it too smooth to grip the material well. As the filaments grind, small particles of plastic can wedge into the tiny spaces and basically fill it in so that it no longer can grip against the filaments. You may need to take the feeder box off to take a look at the wheel inside.
  9. kmanstudios
    Are you referring to the heater bed or the nozzles? As for the nozzles, I would agree with mastory. As for the bed, I do a preheat while I am doing other things like prepping the buildplate, etc.
  10. kmanstudios
    What computer, os, etc?
  11. kmanstudios
    Very much for the dark. That is why the lights going more into the setting is very important. The swimming dolphins are supposed to reflect the light, but I need more lights in the back to make it work. It will be very bland in the daylight or lit room as it is just chrome covered dolphins and translucent white setting.
  12. kmanstudios
    I have had some prints kicking my little heiny for the last month. Between long print times for tests (3-4 days just to find out something did not work) or humidity issues that killed prints becaue the PVA would clog up, I did manage to get a semi-working print. It is almost correct. But with all the crazy fractal shapes and hollows and close areas to feed fibre optics into, it is a bit of a dance between structural integrity and ability to feed the optics as I wish. I gotta reprint this again, and it is a 6 day print. But, I am liking where it is going. It is following theory just fine. Just gotta refine the modeling technique before I move on to other things planned. So far, about 6 different things that involve these processes.
  13. kmanstudios
    I am kinda on board with the "it is not recommended, but let the user decide" way of looking at it. I pretty much stopped using the priming tower and I am pretty confident that I could plan the locations so to avoid the collision aspect. The dual nozzle would mean less parts per buildplate when using both nozzles, but not everything uses both nozzles. Couple that with the failure aspect when printing long term and losing a whole build plate instead of just one model.
  14. kmanstudios
    Does this work for dual nozzle?
  15. kmanstudios
    Not a good idea if using the same material for support as the model. If using PVA it works wonders, but if using same material as the model, it will bond to it like a wall.
  16. kmanstudios
    You say that the support comes out of the same extruder as the part. So i am assuming you are not using PVA? That can help a lot and you can let the model sit on the support roof.
  17. kmanstudios
    I went last night and it was very informative. However I just came off two freelance jobs that collided and burned the candle at both ends and was not able to finish the night. I even posted about the Morphi app that I learned about in another thread here. I will be at Maker Faire on Saturday and will be dropping by your booth, setup, whatever it is and hope to meet up with you guys.
  18. kmanstudios
    I was at the Fat Cat FabLab mixer last night (sponsored by Matterhackers and Ultimaker) and heard about Morphi. I have no experience, but it does output to 3D Printing. They have several versions and this is the link. Seems cool and developed with the beginner in mind as it is being used a lot in schools and such.
  19. kmanstudios
    That makes too much sense...LOL I am used to that during 3d renderings and After Effects and such. The overall estimates from Cura and when the firmware reads it, before chosen for printing, has always been very accurate with few exceptions, and not that far off. I guess that is why it threw me.
  20. kmanstudios
    You cannot find it because I am a doof with no brains....... I do not know where I got the name with the 4 in it....it is really bforartists. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused......
  21. kmanstudios
    In reference to the sanding; I like to use a bit of light weight filler to get the big dings out. And, if you are painting, a decent amount of primer, sand and then reapply primer again/repeat will smooth out large form shapes no issue. However, it can bury fine details like door shape insets or protrusions like raised symbols.
  22. kmanstudios
    I think as soon as it went to 2 Days and 23 hours and 59 minutes (internally) it decided to display what it did as it was not a full 23 hours. But, I ain't gonna sit there and just watch it.
  23. kmanstudios
    I am looking forward to being there tonight and have tickets for the weekend as well. Will be my first....kinda have the same feeling like my first comic convention.....wll the goodies to see and marvel at.
  24. kmanstudios
    I did do a google search and though it is mentioned, it is not specific and I still think the manufacturers need to come up with an abrasion scale so that it can be weighed or just even mention it. I did the search after I did not get a reply for a day or two after I got a bit of a break. The worst is that (according to the searches I did) it varies due to the type of material used and how fine it is ground.
  25. kmanstudios
    Would this include glow in the dark PLA? I have not seen this mentioned before. Yep, glow in the dark is also considered abrasive. Well, flapdoodle.....I did not know that when I printed some glow in the dark stuff. I have not done much, mostly to test it out on a couple of prints. But when you purchase this stuff, they do not tell you. I went and looked at product pages and nothing was mentioned. I assume it is not as abrasive as the other stuff, Carbon Fibre, Metal filled, etc?
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