kmanstudios

Take this for what it is worth...maybe a plugged nickel at best... But I have started making interlocking parts, or parts that slide into one or another. I have learned to give a bit of 'slop' room between parts. It will depend on the nozzle and fidelity of the print layers as well as material and environment. Not to be critical, but as I have found in my limited experience, this is not precision printing and can vary piece by piece. It can be close, but it is not like injection molding. May I suggest you just make a dummy or two of very simple, quick print objects to test various settings out, and see what gives the fit you desire. And, do not forget things like horizontal expansion to tweak a bit of space between things, here and there. And try to make the outer and inner objects separately so that you can have finer control over the parts using 'per model settings'. Just make sure their pivot points are aligned in your 3D Package.

I will have to wait for it to be properly integrated, but I do like the concept and look. I hope to see others who do try this, post their prints.

I am doing some prep work before I have to leave to go real world things...uggghhhhh....would rather stay with this stuff Been working since 4AM. But, if it has not been done by the time I get back, I will post a series of steps that I use to do so.

It will remain under the original name so that you can choose a type that is recognized by the4 UM3 Series of printers. For instance, when I started there was no CPE+, so I had to start with a CPE as the choice and then all other factors followed in the profile settings in the same place that you can alter and save, say, "Fast 0.2mm PETG" as the actual settings for the usage. But the material will not change into something that the UM3 cannot understand. And, they do keep adding new materials.

Indeed on Cura it works since they added the per object settings. For s3d they broke it on 4.0. Visually I prefer s3d over cura and for the prints I do Cura can't manage efficiently the multiple settings I need nor the surface finish. But cura is getting better and better very fast. Oddly, when I got into this, I went full tilt with printer, supplies and software. I own S3D as well as downloaded all the others (main ones like slic3r, etc) as well as expanded my creation software and dropped a few others for creative freedom, and found Cura more to my liking. I think it is because of the time I got into it and it just 'fits'. Sorta like back in the day when people gravitated to Freehand or Illustrator based on what they felt was right for them. Both did basically the same thing, but it was more of a personal choice. I am not disappointed with S3D. Do not get me wrong about that. I just, like, ya'know, have a teeny crush the the cute Cura damsel, fer shurrrr, dude...... But as soon as I get this print finished tomorrow evening, I have one using your technique ready to go. It makes me want more infill pattern choices and 3D control of line direction. Yes....I want it ALL!!!!! BWAHAHAHAHahahahaha

I saw this post this morning and gave it a quick whirl before getting ready to head out the door. I am on Cura 2.6.2 and it worked like a charm. Now I have to dig out a cool file to run it through some tests. However, this does point towards using some interesting infill patterns that are not currently available in Cura.

I did get the notifications this morning. I get that bit of not flooding the email servers as it can cause the issues of being blacklisted automatically. I did however whitelist the Ultimaker emails on my end because a few wound up in the spam filter a while back. But, I seem to be back up and running now. Thanks!!

Well, I got a few today after I posted that. But when I got here there were 7 notifications in my lil' bell symbol at top right, but only 3 emails. It has been like this for a while. Maybe a week or two. And, it is possible I am here often enough that I beat the notification system. Wonder what the lag is between a posting to follow and the time sent out......

For some reason, I do not get notifications anymore for any replies or messages. I got them for the longest time. I checked just now to see if any settings got reset in my notifications, they did not. I only see the little thingies in the top right when I log in. Spam filter is not the problem (double check that daily) and it is not blacklisted in the mail and does not wind up in the trash either.

No worries... For what it is worth, things have been working ok since I made that post. 0.4 and 0.8 nozzles are both no issues this last week. This leads me to believe that some sort of electrical noise was introduced somehow into my environment. I understand that can play merry hob with the sensors.

I do believe he was seeking Cura help.

The supplier/manufacturer of the printer should have a list of vendors you can purchase from.

I have had none of those additional issues, and I have been working it like horse on the field night and day.

Nice Link :)Thanks Cost wise, Faberdashery seems to be in line with the other filaments I buy. At least here in the US. The only filament I purchase that is exorbitant it UM's PVA. Yikes! That is right at twice the cost of another PVA filament (Matterhackers) I buy. I am still in the experimental stage of things, but they do have transparent colors I have not seen yet in others, so far. Of course, being in the US, colors are not always available. And, they are accurate in diameter.

I got several buildplates to speed up my transition times. Here is my basic process: Take buildplate and put layer of PVA slurry on it. This puts a thin layer for adhesion, but also helps part separate when soaked in water. Print and remove buildplate with part on it. Put that in shallow pan with water to start the layer dissolve process. Put different buildplate on the bed, heat, clean nozzles (set the temp on the print cores to soften the material and preheat the cores) and level. Clean glass with 99% Isopropyl alcohol and then PVA slurry. Heating the bed during this time will speed the evaporation of the alcohol and slurry as well as cut down on the time from hitting print button to start printing. The print cores are closer to printing temps when doing the nozzle cleaning and letting the cores stay at temp. While the print is printing away, I am free to let water take care of my supports and plate adhesion with no issues, no worries and no hurries. Once the print has been able to be removed, I can then put in water bath to recycle and remove all the PVA supports. If no supports, then just a bit of washing to clean the print up real nice. This is good because sometimes, I can jut go right back to bed in the middle of the night. Final note is that I am now experimenting with just swapping out plates without active leveling at every plate change. Unless I accidentally bang the plate when removing or placing new glass (I am kinda clumsy sometimes as the prints will stop at odd times during the night and I wake to the sounds), I see no reason to level, so just now testing. Speeds the beddy bye time for return and catch more sleep. But, if the print starts to curl, or has some sort of defect that makes the plate bounce a bit during printing, I will always run a level as it is pushing the springs about a bit.

Oooohhh, that would be nice! Thanks! I was hand winding a roll today (having to untangle it from trying ways to print without re-spooling it) and was trying to work out the math in me wee noggin for the turns of the spool and the back and forth slide of the threading controller. If I can get it worked out, I will try to design such a device. I am sure they exist, but I do just love a problem to solve. Unfortunately, I am derailed on my spiralized fractals and such for lamps at the moment, so I am just taking the lazy way out. I am so derailed on that project (And the microelectronics to control them) that I have yet to wind up my 14" Enterprise..... Sigh....so easily tangented off into solving problems LOL I know that the good folks at fbrc8 enjoy using it a lot. I was hoping to hear a cool idea or so from them. It really is nice filament.

I am not a sketchup user for a variety of reasons, but from what I have read on these forums, there is something to fix it. Searching the forums would be a good start as I see it posted a lot. I just do not pay attention as I do not use it. Maybe someone who deals with this can make a post and shortcut your process. The reasons Peggy named are spot on though.

I really like the filament. But that loose spool is a pain. No matter how I try to lay it, or support it, it will get tangled up. The only thing working has been to take an old empty spool and wind it by hand. Not easy as that can tangle during that process and you really have to be on guard against crossing the lines on the spool or it will hang there too. I am open to any suggestions. Kinda tired of chewing up good filament...... :(

I have to tell you, most of you guys apologizing for your English skills do not need to worry. Most of you (99.9%) have better English language skills than I encounter daily in the US. No need to apologize!! Y'all be good by me <----See? But, since I butted in: I am just trying to learn everything I can about the process of 3D Printing. I have been using 3D Graphics since 1990 starting with (Now) POVRay and been using computers, tearing them apart and software since 1985. As I move to a more comfortable position of 3D Printing, I am branching out to study electronics. I have not touched a circuit board since my Navy days in 1981. I have a UM3E and love it. It has been all I hoped for and it really stands up to the punishment I can dish out. I tend to push things to find limitations and many times, happy little accidents along the way. The community has been most beneficial to myself in ways I cannot begin to describe and haunt the boards for anything I can learn. Happy to always see new people, viewpoints and be corrected Let's make it hap'n cap'n!! I am an old fart.....

What if you are using the print core 0.4 (I neglected to get a BB Core 0.8mm), what would happen using your advice?

And, here is where you can get the logs I just dumped. Be aware that I had to cycle the machine off and on a few times while the buildplate went up and down consistently. Other information: Sometimes, when watching the process, it would not touch the nozzles. Sometimes it would go up and down a few times, but would eventually settle down and either fail or not. Really no consistency. Sometimes, it looked alright in action and would still fail. Sometimes it would fail even after doing a manual. Sometimes, I would just do a manual and it would print just fine, so, I do believe my manual leveling skills are ok. All times the nozzles were cleaned (Char and excess material) and made sure that the material was not 'leaking' out. It would let a bit of filament out as it did the leveling sometimes during the process, but I am discounting those times as that can futz up the active leveling. But, for some reason it seems to be working now that I tattled to the teacher about its misbehaviour. I just am not sure if all the information is there in the logs. There are three logs (even though I rebooted more times than that).

I really need Cura to know if I'm going to print single or dual extrusion on the UM3, Interesting, I would have thought bridge detection and speed/cooling settings for bridging. Maybe my approach is wrong, but I thought that by, for example, having two models to print, and they are only using the one extruder, it knows by default that it is only a one extruder print. By choosing to not specifically use two extruders, it defaulted to just the one and required using supports (BB Core on Extruder 2) , Brims and such specified for the other extruder, or two color by using model specific settings the machine would then choose to use multiple extruders.

Otay...as soon as the current print finishes, I will try to remember to do a log dump. I have been printing up a storm and little to no downtime between prints so far. Just on a roll is all. I gotta get pics up too.....sigh........ I will post a link to the files as soon as I remember. Now...LOOK! On the table top! It's a beep, a servo, NO! It's PRINTER THANG! Able to bend mighty filament with the heat of its nozzles, Faster than a speeding Prime Blob (ok...that ain't hard to do) Able to print tall things in ONE PART!!! It's PRINTER THANG!!

Well, it is hard for me to say about times as I do not have a stable schedule at this time. I am so "Non-24" it ain't funny. The life of an independent contract artist/whatever I am at this moment. I just dropped the ball to let you know I had a conflict of times arise. I also reversed the time difference, thinking 10:30PM instead of AM. Duhhhhh... But I would enjoy the next team member to have an AMA would be someone with the development department on the engineering side....the people who have to figure build sizes, materials included, shielding and such. Mi dos centos (I hope that is correct....Too lazy at 5:30 AM to google translate). And, thanks for the answer on the recyclables. I have thought of investing in a real 'Struder' machine and not one of the cheap ones as I am really feeling the need for accuracy on diameter. Plus, as an old hippy(ish) person, I do feel a responsibility to not be wasteful. And happy holiday!! and thanks for taking the time I learned a lot from other, more experienced people as well as people just looking outside of things from my limited perspective. Kudosities all around!!

I did have one question that was not answered: What are the recyclabilities of the Filaments? Are there places to take filaments or types of plastics? I know to use a lot of my pieces as either greebles or such, but I do have a lot that can be just junked.