kmanstudios

Are you using a dual extruder? What slicer? If (A) you are using a dual extruder and (B) also using Cura 2.+ (The versions I am familiar with) the basic procedure would be: 1. In modeling package make sure that your 'sign' is one model and the 'lettering' is another model. 2. Make sure they have the same pivot point when exporting as two different STL files. 3. Bring each model into the slicer so that both are in there at the same time. 4. Use 'per model' settings to assign each model a different extruder. 5. Select all (Just to get both models easily) and then go to Edit->MergeModels. Having both models share a common pivot point will allow for them to mate up nicely and have proper 'fit.' Slice and print away

I upgraded today on Win10 in firefox ok.

Been pretty much across the board with me. And, I usually forget to hit the copy all combo before losing everything and the back button has not worked at all for me. However...what was this? LOL

I am not sure that you can blame the plug-n-play mentality on the company or the forums, but rather the evolution of things. This is not the first time I have heard or seen this. Although I am new here, I have been on a lot of forums over the time between now and the old CompuServe days. It seems that as things go, this is how the populace grows as an industry matures. In my short time here, I have been astounded at how many people come in and actually seem to want to troll the forums that the UM3 does not do enough right off the bat or any problems that are not that difficult with just a bit of searching. There are some misleading things such as buildplate size and other minor things like having to learn the language that does create a bit of a "Durrhhhh" moment for anybody new. But when someone comes in to complain that the G-Code from Cura is only for the UM series or just does not have that one last feature, it can be frustrating. I experienced this first hand with many of my students, the digital natives, as they are called, know less about how computers work than I do with the excuse being "There was nobody who taught us." When I started, there was nobody to teach us, at all, so we researched, tore into our machines and software and THEN became the people who taught them. I can get the frustration of those who came before those of us who are new. But there is a natural evolution happening and it is required to continue to grow and succeed as a company. Although, it would be cool to have a division that does cater to the tinkerers and a division that moves forward to compete on the current trajectory.

You forgot one, cleverly disguised https://www.youmagine.com/designs/3d-rendering-services-interior-rendering Nawwww, those are Three Dee printed people!!

I can appreciate your point of view. But I also would miss your input on many things as I have found them to be illuminating and cool ideas. Even if you left as a Mod, I would hope that you stick around to offer your experiences as insight. Guys like you are light years ahead of me and I appreciate all of you helping us out that are new.

I have never had an issue with primers having radically different colours from final colours. If you layer your paints properly, you can get a thin, opaque colour cover. I have always treated primer colours as something that should expose flaws based on the colour of the substrate it is covering. Grey primer does not really show up as coverage on grey plastics. Neither does white. But black can be sanded and you can readily see where things even out or you start to sand into the plastic and not just evening out the surface. For doing things like the black backing is for using thin layers that start out very transparent and build to the opacity you desire. This allows the light to pass through and make for richer colours on many cases. Say a black background base with a red on top can go from a very deep cherry colour to a vibrant, bright scarlet red. It also lends towards a 'deeper' look as you described.

But what if you could clone the TPU and *Name* it as NinjaFlex. Same with cloning say a CPE+ or nylon but naming it PETG. In a way, that is what we are doing now....choose a profile in Cura that matches closely to what we want to start with and then choose the generic variant on the machine. Although not a technically elegant solution, it could save a few steps for users and prevent the need to remember which variant you are starting from.

You would have to ask Monty Python

I agree with the images or the model to have a better chance of evaluation, but have you tried the support horizontal expansion? It defaults to 3mm and I routinely turn it down to 0.25mm, sometimes a value of 0.5mm and even 0mm sometimes. saves a lot on PVA too.

I have been to Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou and if your humidity is anything like that, then yep, I am surprised it did not turn to near liquid. And, yes, PVA, any PVA, is that sensitive to moisture in the air.

I use a degreasing soap to clean. I was having the same issue and it was needing a real thorough cleaning. Even though I could squeak my fingers across the glass when cleaning, I still had to use the degreaser and really hot water. Even then, I wipe with isopropyl alcohol (99% is best) on the buildplate and then apply my stick-um stuff to the glass while heating it up. Another thing: It seems the UM series of buildplate glass is made so that one side is more able to hold things than the other side. I forget if it is sticker side up or down.

There are food safe filaments, but the act of printing will not let it be food safe unless you have a science level clean room to print and seal it with. The sealant would have to be food safe as well. All materials would have to be contained and handled in a sterilized way and area. Once that container is open, it is fair game to airborne pathogens and sneeze stuff, etc as well as what is floating around inside the build area. So, even if the hotend cooks out the organisms, then there is a lot of secondary ways of being contaminated. Also, most food safe filaments do not really stand up to the cleaning temps needed to keep it clean without softening.

I have noticed that curling on edges with some filaments will create this issue. In addition to gr5's suggestions, which the starting point, try to cut back on the print temperature and slow down the printing. This will make the heat differential less of an issue and let the fans sit on the part longer.

My computer is rendering out an animation right now and cannot start Cura, but there is a plugin called (Something like this) Change at Z. Another option is to make the cylinder separate from the sphere. Place them in proper orientation and make sure the picot points are the same location. Bring both objects into Cura and then use per object settings to set speed independently for each object and then go to Edit: Merge Models. Then each part will have its own speed.

There is nothing wrong with moving to a larger base for many jobs. I just wonder why they are trampling on the businesses that did do well and remain small. Kinda think there should be a way to do both in some way or another. Again, the ratings system should weed out the wheat from the chaff and provide a guide without tossing the well performing small guys.

Still a bit on the iffy side. Whether the user in question was trying to move customers away still does not alleviate the issues mentioned below the answer. The system is not listing all printers, many printer orders drying up. I have no idea of whether these printers complaining made money off lacking business practices, but that is what a rating system is for. Also, a business that used to get say 10%, then dropping top 4% then virtually nothing when the system is implemented points to an issue with the new system. Though the OP did say 3D Hubs is dead (maybe philosophically?), it has changed and maybe not for the better for those who depended on them.

that would depend on your internal support structure. If you use gradual infill, it will replace that with PVA and do as you say.

That looks like the filament that is extruded before starting the print. That is why it is on one side only and in the same place; where the printing is started from. Maybe try lowering your temp and speed a bit.

Also, which print core(s) are clogging? Pics would help too.

Wow....that is not good. Really sad to think of building a brand off of independents and then tossing them aside.

Really depends on the area of the college it is located in. One college with different campuses I worked at were diametrically opposite. One was run with a closed off/fiefdom type of attitude and would not share information or take suggestions. The other was more open to information, but could still be a bit testy about 'help from the students/lowerlings.' "I know what I am doing, I have a degree" really is getting to be a problem. At least in America in my experience.

All filaments marked as being susceptible to moisture are such. They all need to be kept in a dry box or sealed bag with desiccant. There is not false info in those warnings. Too many people ignore them and then blame the printer or software.

If there is an open source STL validation program/utility, does it really need to be inside Cura? Seems better as a standalone and not clutter up Cura. Folding something like that in could be an issue.

Without direct access to the plate itself, I do not think Cura can overcome the possible physical issues with the plate. Things like: Not cleaned completely Not primed with glue, salt or some other adhesive issues Not perfectly level for some reason Any other physical issue that may occur with the axis armatures or nozzles.