kmanstudios

I am gonna stick with the tin foil hat But seriously, it was a first. I will keep a look out. But I like the Faraday cage...maybe around the whole apartment

This is what my cores looked like last week. Ugghhhhh....At least this person took a pic.

That is what my cores looked like last week. I heated both cores up and managed to get them out. I pulled a lot of plastic out while still attached. I cleaned the BB core while hot with Needle nose pliers. But by the time I got to the AA core, the plastic was soft, but not really able to let go and pulled out two wires because the plastic had hardened just enough to be problematic. I bought backups. But, if I had a small heat gun, I think I could have gotten the AA core cleaned no issue.

Cleaned the heck out of the nozzles. But during the up n' down cycles, it was just going up and down, so I am going with the interference. Of course, with the social situation in 'Murica right now, who knows who was snooping LOL I can see it now: "He never leaves his basement....his electricity is high....he MUST be up to something nefarious!!" LOL

I dunno LOL But I just bought two airhog Enterprise drones for$38 (ish) USD to gut for the electronics and lights. I really have no idea. Was just tossing silly things out I guess But Sander had a good post above mine.

I was changing out the glass plates between prints today and noticed that during the active leveling it would tell me I had a discrepancy. Usually it is just cleaning the nozzle well that does it. But it would then go up and down endlesssly on the first contact test. Even did the manual leveling a couple of times in between. I eventually got the thing to work, then changed the model a bit and started over and it did the same thing. Both times I had to power off and on. I did the manual leveling to make sure it did not get whammied during the glass changing process. Each time it would either give me a discrepancy error or just cycle up and down after a couple of attempts. Latest firmware updated a week ago and using Cura 2.6. But this is before loading a model. Models are printing fine once I get the plate to level out. Usually when I do a manual level, it all works fine though. It really got finicky today.

This is the print that killed my cores. Well, I killed it, but it was the one that was printing when the humidity hit my BB core so bad. It took 5 days and 19 hours at 0.2mm Layer height to get this beastie out. Will take forever to get the PVA off, but that is ok. Thank goodness it is PVA and will dissolve eventually. But on the day the print failed, it failed at less than 1/8 of an inch into the print and 'circled the wagon' in the air for about 9 or so hours before I got home. Uggghhhh...But it printed. Now to wait and see. It is real spindly and I am not going to rush that one.

Please post a link to the specific files. I would love to take a look.

Absolutely That's what makes this tuff so cool...so many different takes and approaches.

The stand is up as well as new pics that show the Bussard Scoops unlit to see differences. New scoop designs, Pics and Stand are up at Thingiverse and YouMagine. Here are a couple of previews that are on the sites listed: I think these are all the final parts. It should be, but, well, I can be doofy on these things. PM me if you find any discrepancies.

I would say it is dependent upon the subject matter. Sometimes the striations, coupled with the proper filament can give a nifty, 'sparkly' look.

Ummmmm, not sure what you mean by supported. I believe you can still get the electronics and it appears at a glance that the electronics are still very much like the current models. But, I must admit that you may be in for a bit of a search if you are looking for a complete kit. Although they are downsizing quite a bit, have you tried something like Radioshack? Buy a drone and then backwards engineer it? For me, the fun would be to gut it and then really play with designs as the printing would be the replaceable parts. You could even make your own Drone Millennium Falcon HA !! But, that shows my geekiness.

New scoop designs are up at Thingiverse and YouMagine.

I had to go update my Supersized Enterprise with the new Nacelle designs and such and the place was clean. Thanks!! :) Triple smiley for ye bucko!!

I have difficulties with PVA when the environment changes. Make sure your area is fairly dehumidified. The first link was from 2013 and the materials have changed quite a bit since then. This link mentioned as the second one is the type of things I had to learn by reading a lot of posts. It is pretty much my experience with temps and such. But, when I started, it was Cura 2.3 and that had pretty much been incorporated. For the record, I have no issues with PLA and PVA working together in any brand tried so far. The only issues, as I stated are with humidity. It can really FUBAR the filament in the nozzle.

I have never seen anything like that on my prints even on my first prints knowing nothing. And while I have not used Cura below 2.3, I do not find it difficult as most of it is preset. It is interesting that is only showed when you upgraded software. Perhaps if you upped the files for the team to look at. Project file/logs, etc....

I dunno, it did not look like you were asking for anything else. Let us see..... So, hmmm, If I read this right, you looked at a discontinued model, said it should be like that model and I found that model and that only the electronics would be a cost. Seems to have met the criteria. And, you did not state how much of a search if any that you may or may not have made. Now, if I wanted to be snarky the reply would have been "Learn to design and use a friggin' 3D Package and not depend on others..." Or..... "How about taking the model and just scaling it in Cura?" Or any number of other things. 1. I do not know you or what your habits are. But your message was, to me, not specific enough to warrant your reply. 2. I did not make assumptions about you, but may have interpreted your message wrong. But you assumed I did not read the message. That is on you. I may have screwed up the interpretation of the message, but I did take it literally and did not make assumptions. That is always on me. 3. If you had bothered to read my bio, you would have found I have Asperger's and that entails communication issues. And in all my posts, I have been nothing but helpful and have made a few communication gaffes. 4. If I was to make the assumptions you did, then I would see 6 posts, be snarky and make fun of you for being a noob, like they used to do in other forums when people asked questions. That reply was along the lines of "RTFM and then come back." 5. And just because you knew about a model did not mean you were not looking for it. If you want 'something like' that model, you are the only judge of that as there are too many to choose from for others to make that easy for you.

I agree...environmental conditions can radically change things and usually within a matter of minutes....like 20 or so minutes if severe enough. All your material has to be is hydroscopic or temperature sensitive. This happened to me within that time period.

Dead on. And, depending on the cad package used, this may be a recurring issue that will mean constant monitoring. All problems start and end with 3D Packages and possibly export failures (Non-unifying normals, etc)

https://bforartists.de/ Supposedly a version of Blender that has a different, more familiar feel for modeling. I am just now downloading and will look at it later. Blender is powerful now, but wow, it is a mind bender to get wrapped around the interface. We shall see. May be good for more freeform modeling and not engineering like others.

Cool Ya know...that is worth putting onto the 3D Prints page. So clean and looks good.

Well, that is my mistake then!! Hahahahaha!! And, yeah, I do hope my mistakes help others. Thanks!!

I think I should look into that. But, the goal is to find the optimum situation that does not need much monitoring, for the most part. But being able to monitor and abort would be nice. I have learned that tech fails at the worst times. I will have to look at that. But, I do not know where you get optimistic from. I prefer all my systems, except this one to be air-gapped. There are just too many bad actors who do nothing but want to create chaos and have no concern for what they do to us little guys. But, I do love sharing the experience as I am hoping it will help others. And, I thought the higher experiencers would get a good laugh at it. I certainly do now. Did not Monday night though!! LOL:P

The first step is to use the front turn wheel which moves the buildplate via the Z-Axis screw. The buildplate screws are just for fine tuning. And, for me, I have found they need to be a bit loose as in, not fully up or down, but in between to allow for small deviances and bounce in the plate during printing. But it always starts that far apart when doing a manual leveling.