kmanstudios

I noticed that during my modeling and such that the pivot point plays a very important part in the process. I have even gone into my 3D package, just moved the point off and then back into place and it worked properly. Dunno why. Cura seems to be very finicky about it.

I get beeping type of sounds on my UM3E during retraction and re-engagement. Just FYI.

That got my attention. My large enterprise had some warpage that I have to work out with putty and sanding. I did not realize such a temp difference in the glass plating. Makes sense, but did not occur to me. I look forward to hearing your feedback.

Choice is always welcome.

Well, I can understand the take it or leave it approach. That is why there are options. And, I would not presume to know about the strength issues as I am just a simple caveman, mystified by your modern world of magic and plastics.... Stay tuned next week for "Caveman 3D Printer Noob!"

I would like to see a mesh of that if you can output to a file that you are comfortable with letting out in the wild.

I think the idea of honeycomb is not speed but the marginal increase in strength where sturdiness is required, not speed. Kinda like saying 0.1MM is slower and will not print as fast as 0.2MM no matter what you do. Just a different set of priorities.

Having read the article posted above, I found that the differences to be marginal (Their words, not mine), but honeycomb did win out in a direct measurement.

oh...I had assumed by "Manual Extrusion" that you were using a "Move function" to force the material through while not printing. My mistake...sorry

Have you cleaned your cores with a hot pull or atomic pull? The curling sounds like gunk in the core. Also, what material? Is it hydroscopic?

Also check to see if your pivot points are matched up properly. You would have to do that in a 3D Package though.

OK, just for anybody who may be seeing this: The test worked out very well. T-Glase and PVA work well together (so far at least). I set it for Nylon and just turned the temp on the Extruder 1 to 255. The nice thing is that since it has a higher transition temp, I could run hotter water over it without it getting soft. Not too much hotter, but still faster to get rid of the PVA than with PLA. Re-winding it onto the larger spool worked, but now that I have a 120 hour print going, I can design my spool adapter for those little T-Glase things. Oddly, their clear came in a regular spool size like the UM filaments and no netting. The netting was put back on the larger spool as there was enough stretch to allow it and it is good because that stuff is sproingy. So, in 5 days, we shall see if the experiment works. I did this because, although my print with the transparent PLA worked ok, it was a bit spindly in places and would just break off if touched just wrongly. I notice...nobody else would as there is a lot of stuff going on. I'll get a pic of it up soon because it was a long print and kinda cool looking. Well, I think so Thanks beaucoup bunches there rowiac!! And, yeah, I know that "beaucoup bunches" is redundant...but, that's me

Just as a follow up to show how life can be, well, less than optimal.....I went to put on the spool and guess what? The holes are incompatible. So, just took a spare spool, rewound it, put the netting on that spool and it is printing like a wiz. My next print (test print at the moment) will take a while, so that give me time to design and make an adapter. But, 'tis to laugh...Laugh! I say, for alas poor spooler, I knew it well......

You are more than welcome, and I am glad it worked as I am not familiar with any of the machines other than the UM3X.

Xeno has left the building......

Did you try to take the bowden tube off the feeder and then pull on the material? You may have to heat the nozzle to get it loosened enough to let go. Other than that, I am not sure what would dissolve PLA.

Sorry, but you have to be more specific as I just searched for that and found they offer that in ABS and PLA. After that I stopped looking. It is the type of plastic that matters, not the brand...well, in this instance. You usually do need both as there are some new hybrids out there with interesting properties. A example would be that Acetone dissolves ABS. Do not know what it would do to the bowden tube, but the question is the most fundamental for the people in the know about such things. I can see something like this happening to a lot of people. So, I keep an eye on such posts to put in the brain attic for when I need it. Another idea is this; have you tried to take off the bowden tube and just pull on it to free up the material inside?

What type of material is it?

Can't really hurt. I guess. It is how I learn. Let us break things to learn how to put them back together.... But, I am a doof that way..... Someone else from the UK had mentioned extra humidity this season around your parts. Could very well be. I saw it kill my print within a half hour of shutting off the A/C in the apartment.

ooff! I feel your pain.

Cool beanie weenies Thanks. I thought I had read that, but had also seen conflicting info in other places. Figured here would be the place to check. Just in time too. I just got back from an appointment and my other print job got finished and now I can put this on right away thanks to you

I have some T-Glase that came with the netting around it. The first spools I tried were just clear and came on a spool that was pretty much the same as the Ultimaker spools and no netting. But this has the netting. Leave on or take off? Does it affect the spooling or what? Thanks!! Da clumsy noob.......

That would be a big possibility as I was not here to see my problem evolve. Maybe, in my case, the lack of support structure (PVA Stopped printing) let the Plastic spool out and gunk up a bit as it dragged over smaller, earlier areas of print. I did notice that some of the spots that should have had something on the plate was not in place and bits of PLA around the model. Wonder if the humidity cut into the PVA slurry and let it not bind the PLA to the plate. I wish it had just made a spiderweb of plastic though.

I know in my case it was a quick infusion of humidity into the apartment. All is working now that I keep the air at a fairly constant temp and humidity level. I wonder if the moisture caused a binding with the PLA as it was the one that gunked up the printhead. My PVA was messed up real bad also but not gunked up around the nozzles. Kinda wondering what the environment would be in the shop mentioned in the OP.

Duhhhh, downloaded the files, got sidetracked until I saw Labern reply. I could open and import all files I tried (Not all of them) from the zip...DXF and STEP as well as a single download of the file. It is possible there was a file corruption during download. People trust their computers and internet to be flawless a bit too much. They are the dumbest machines around being able to only know "Yes/No, On/Off, 1/0", and that is easy to disrupt. Did you try a re-download? Also, maybe geographic locations get different servers, ergo, something may be corrupted on a different Server. But, I am US and Labern is NZ, so I would discount that and go for download corruption. Maybe defective spot on the drive?