kmanstudios

Maybe I am missing something here. This is what I have done: 1. Choose material type that is closest to new material needs. 2. Make all changes needed and save project. 3. Once settings are fine tuned and ready, I then save material profile with proper material name. 4. This does not transfer material properties to the printer, so I have to choose a material type that is consistent with that profile; i.e. if I make a new profile based on UM Nylon, I have to make sure I load the new material as a Nylon material and Cura takes care of the rest when using that profile. 5. Whenever I load that profile in Cura, I do have to remember the material to choose from. That is why having a project file is handy as it will keep all things in place. Helpful hint, about this method, make sure you save project with small model so that you do not waste time loading large geometry. Though it does not address your immediate concerns directly, it does provide a work around until something less klugey is implemented.

Ultimaker has PP filament now.

I have found any filament that is hygroscopic will do that as it cooks the moisture out of the filament and will make a dark char over the nozzle. PVA is especially bad about this.

I agree, but I did point it out only because the original post mentioned the bottom as well. And, I agree that it would be nice to have a top layer feature too.

= Raft + support?

Which Cura are you using? I think since Cura 2.5 it has some of the option available.

Just off the top of my head, the cleaned setup has probably change filament flow and you may need to adjust your slicer settings accordingly.

3.00mm is a general measurement. Almost all of the filaments are 2.85 unless specifically stated. Take a look at the filament features online and I am pretty sure you will find it to be 2.85 with a +/- value to indicate the uniformity of the filament. If stated to be a different diameter, I would enter that into the proper areas so that it is accounted for. Unless I am mistaken, all the fields in Cura are interrelated to some degree or another.

how can I change that? I am only experienced with the UM3 feeders, but, here is a link to this about the UM2 series., Oddly, looking that up, it is very similar to the UM3. But,l I know it is not like your feeder, so I am not sure how much it helps. And, you mentioned the 3mm in your original post...I missed that...sorry.

Thanks! That is good to know because I had done that way back before that version.

I have noticed that the new versions (2.6.x family) is very sensitive to pivot points and how the geometry is made. Basically, as the software gets more advanced, it is demanding better/proper models/modeling. Many of the models online are not all that great. I just spent about 20 hours fixing one of my own files from earlier on because of this. It was a file from when I was using at least 3 different programs to accomplish a goal and did it all ad hoc and not with any real plan. Not the best of procedures. If you do not know how to fix the files, then you can always go to preferences, uncheck 'automatically drop models onto buildplate' (Or close to that) at the top of general (The default tab when it opens) and then move the model up to make sure it is sitting right on the buildplate. This is very handy for also having to rotate and object to find the optimal printing angle as you sometimes have to model based on the needs of the modeling program (Rendering purposes or animations) and not what will always print best.

OK, I finally got the file to work. But it all began as a retrofitted file from when I was experimenting with workflows from one program to another. I was using Incendia Next to generate my 3D fractals. A combo of 3DSMAX and 3D Coat to make parts and put it together using the voxels to create quick and clean boolean ops. It was done before I had my basic workflow with these programs figured out about last November. As i have refined the fundamentals of what to do, when and what program to do it with, I usually do not have these problems these days. I had to really step back and look at it as if I had received the file like so many I have had to fix in the past. I mean get into it deep and down to the vertex level and such. But, it did not like the pivot point being messed with. For some reason, I had to put the base of the model on 0,0,0 and leave the pivot point there. Lessons here are these: 1. Having developed a set of fundamental steps and workflow from program to program, I have eliminated most of these issues. I have not encountered something like this in a few months. 2. Sometimes when a model takes you down the wrong rabbit hole, it is usually easier to start over rather than beat the model into submission. 3. Sometimes, you just have to beat on that thing like trying to make your little brother 'say uncle'. I do not know if that is universal enough or not. Here is the explanation. 4. After nearly 18 hours off and on, I almost said 'uncle' LOL

That is why I never use the adapter with threader when using large spools. It fits ok on the main spool holder. I just let the adapter dangle with the filament threaded. The threading helps keep it from pulling at too sharp an angle and binding on itself. The spool should not fall off the main spool rod as it has that 'lip' as well as being pulled towards the printer itself naturally. I just have not gotten around to making a new spool adapter for large spools. Mainly because, eventually, I will make a dry box to feed the filaments and it will vastly change the dynamics of the spooling actions. If you want a copy of the current spool adapter as included to make your own adjustments and such, go here.

Far as I know it is

May be more resistant to warping and chipping too. Do not know if it is enough to warrant the price. The price is not much of a jump from the borosilicate glasses, but some have said it is not that much better than regular glass in other threads I have read.

I believe you do. If I remember correctly, I did a factory reset once and had to do it. I think it even warned me that it was not calibrated.

I have found that sometimes I seem to get a UM3E #1, #2, #3, etc. I have not found a pattern that does this or figured out why, but I just keep deleting them when I notice them. But, I am doing that in the program up top in the black band in the top right of the interface.

Here are two Links to guides: Link 1 Link 2 In general though, by the time you are ready to make soap, it has all the animal or plant fats, glycerine and other stuffs that make it 'soap' as we know it added and it is reduced in caustic properties. If not, it would severely burn skin. Also, plastic soap holders would not be able to hold it after solidifying. I think heat would be the issue as you have to cook it and pour it while still somewhat hot.

Is the hole bigger or the width will not fit the adapter with threading holes (That hole at the bottom of the arm with the smooth, white inserts). If the hole is bigger, just put it on the spool holder and it will just roll. There is a 'lip' that will keep it from falling off. If the width (From front to back, not in diameter) of the roll is too large for the adapter to fit into, then just put it on the spool holder as above. In both cases, (I have some filament for which the spool is too wide for the adapter) I just put the spool on the spool holder and thread the filament through the holes in the adapter and just let it hang. Gravity will do its job there for the most part. Worst case, you may have to tape it down to keep it from rising up to the feeder. I have adapted the spool holder with a piece for the smaller hole spools like Taulman's, but have not played with the printing of an adapted spool holder for the wider spools.

IIRC he's using filament from Taulman that, mostly, come on tiny spools. That's it. Just those tiny spools. Oddly, they are not all tiny and some of the prints are fragile. Taulman's T-Glase is stronger than PLA.

Way Cool

Plus shipping which they seem to want to charge a lot for. Fortunately they are driving distance away for me. If bed flatness isn't an issue for you then spending the extra money won't net you much but if it causes you the kind of problems I was seeing then $75 on top of the $3500 or so doesn't seem excessive. In my opinion, this glass should be original equipment for this printer. So far, the plates I have (Original and two borosilicate (SP?) added to that), I have been lucky with the flatness. But I am curious how much it resists chipping and such. I've gotten better at removing my prints and how to prep the plate, so no issues since the real early days, but at some point, I will drop one or something else stupid.

Great Googly Moogly...that is $54.00 USD for one! Ack!! LOL

I have tried enclosing the printer and if anything, it makes the problem worse. Huh....that is odd. But thanks for the info.

Do you have your print space enclosed at all? Until I receive my advanced kit, I tape up bubble wrap on the door opening. I do not (at this time) put a tent over the top.