Travis7s

Not being able to override this message is especially frustrating now that so much work is done remotely. For example the skeleton crew at my office did not remember to hit the button before they left so now I'm unable to start any of the big weekend prints.

I use my printer through a wired network connection so disabling the plugin is not very desirable to me. Cura 4.5.0 does seem to run much faster for me, but still not as good as 3.4.1

Looking for help with this in Cura 4.5 (although it doesn't seem to work in any version) This model has a small cutout in the very bottom that is about 0.75mm tall. It needs support as it droops too much when printing. Is there some kind of setting I'm using wrong or a way to force this? I tried playing around with the Custom Support plugin but that also gave me weird results like essentially building a raft under the entire model.

@Smithy It seems like this may have been the problem. I did pull a small out of debris out of the fan (although it was very minimal) but the print succeeded on the next try. Thanks for the suggestion.

I take it back, I don't think the filament was deformed, it seems like something is happening in the hot end.

This morning I discovered my print had failed, it looked like a clogged nozzle which I thought was odd for PLA. Upon further review, there was a small section of filament that actually measured 3.2mm diameter. It worked its way all the way up the bowden until it got completely stuck at the extruder. This is genuine Ultimaker filament and I had used around 2/3 of the spool without issue, and it looks like the rest of the filament after the bad section is fine too. Has anyone else experienced this?

I agree with this, slicing still seems slower than old versions but navigating the GUI in 4.4.1 is remarkably faster.

Any Cura 4.x.x is also very painfully slow on my workstation, but I also have an install of 3.4.1 on the same machine and it runs great. The only way I can get the Cura 4 to boot at all is running Windows 8 compatibility mode so I wonder if this has something to do with it? Windows 10 64 bit i7-6700 16GB RAM Intel HD graphics 530

I have an UM3 but I find the glass seems very, very sensitive to contamination. Cleaning, even with 99% alcohol, seems to throw the plate off for days, it seems like running a bunch of failed prints will "cure" the glass for me and then everything is good. I use the UHU glue liberally and avoid cleaning now, I probably haven't cleaned mine in 6-8 months and have not had a print break loose since. (we print almost every day and switch between nylon, TPU, ABS, and PLA)

I've never had any luck with the active leveling, especially right out of the box. Switched to manual leveling and never looked back, once I've dialed it in I relevel once or twice a year and have virtually no failures. Use the Z axis Offset plugin to wteak how much "squish" I want. ABS is one of the toughest to print as it really likes warp/pop off the plate easily especially if you don't use an enclosure to maintain steady heat.

I really just use it to periodically check that there isn't a catastrophic print fail, its good for that and its nicely tucked away at this angle.

Has anyone else noticed how slow and sluggish version 4 of Cura runs? I went back and installed a copy of 3.4.1 to test some things today and was blown away by how quick it runs on my system. On 3.4.1 a job sliced in 5 seconds whereas the exact same job on 4.2.1 took 21 seconds. Just navigating the menus and settings on the new Cura has significant delays as well.

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My guess is S5 with aluminum bed and glass frame.

Specifically printing TPU with stock profiles. I get much better quality (less stringing) when I print one at a time but when one part is done the printer will delay for a considerable time while heavily oozing, then it starts printing into the ooze which leads to a very bad print. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this? Here is a video showing the issues:

I also had to run compatibility mode for Windows 8.

The Onyx One started at $3500 and would probably be more comparable to Ultimaker, but is it as reliable/consistent as @P3D says?

Also be careful with CPE+, if you don't apply enough glue it chips very easily. It seems like things that need a high plate temp make it more susceptible. (CPE+ and polycarb default is 107C!)

Tried to update today using the menu and a wired connection but just get the "Checking for Updates" screen indefinitely.

I'm not brave enough to try this update so I think I will wait a bit and see how it pans out.

I've had real trouble with Ultimaker TPU clogging gradually on my UM3. Even with a brand new Printcore and bowden tube that has only seen TPU, I find that after a day or 2 I will get subtle underextrusion. You can't see it by eye but the parts are significantly weaker/squishier. Eventually the nozzle will clog enough that the filament jams back at the feeder A hot and cold pull will fix but only for a day or two. Any tips of preventing this? Side note, I find it annoying that the printcore doesn't preheat when unloading TPU. Half the time its too stuck in the nozzle to break free and the filament grinds and you have to throw away a few feet.

Is there any fix for the Z offset plugin yet? Its very useful for me as I routinely need to make parts that have virtually no elephant foot and manually adjusting the screws back and forth is not ideal...

XY Calibration also failed for me after updating, but I thought it was due to one of the nozzles being loaded with TPU. I tried it twice but haven't really had time to fully look into it.

One odd thing I noticed since upgrading my UM3 is if you use the handwheel to rapidly jog the z axis during manual bed level, it no longer moves smoothy, but starts-stops-starts-stops with every revolution of the wheel.

Brand new printcore seems to work fine so I guess this particular core has lost its ability to regulate the temperature correctly. The stats showed it as being hot for 20 days and printed 550m of filament. What is the typical lifespan of an AA printcore?