johnse

I think all you need to do is give curl the key/password. On a command line curl, you would use the -u option, as in “curl -u key:password”. I found this Stackoverflow question: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/38330137/http-basic-authentication-using-laravel-curl-library So you should be able to use: withOption(USERPWD, ‘key:password’)

What layer thickness are you printing this with? From what I have read elsewhere, using a single wall to calibrate flow rate is not a good measure. To check for proper calibration, print a calibration cube with infill and measure the resulting cube. AFAIK, to check for proper flow and bonding with a single wall, you want to focus on the finish of the surface and layer bond strength of a spiralized cylinder.

If you are forwarding gcode files from a web portal, you can certainly prepend information to the files you send (look first if it has the info already).

By saying you want to print gcode from any website, you are implying you want your printer naked on the internet. Please don’t do this. Like many IoT devices, these printers have zero security. They ship with all known accounts and passwords. if you want to be able to send a gcode file from your web site to your printer, you will need to write a custom web service either hosted by a server on your network (with proper security) or with a VPN between the hosting server and your network. Then you can use the UM3 http API to transfer the file from your web service to the printer. Getting this working correctly and securely is not a trivial task. It might be possible to directly use the http API directly from an external server by using port forwarding on your router/firewall, but I would not recommend that as I doubt the http server in the printer is actually hardened against web exploits. In no case should it be necessary to use the dev mode to do what you want.

@ksor, it sounds to me like there may be other things going on... perhaps we we can try to isolate things by using a different program to see If it can talk to your printer. There is a simple control program called pronterface. It comes in a package called PrintRun. The github repo is at https://github.com/kliment/Printrun and there are links on that page to prebuilt versions you can just download & run. See if you can control the printer from pronterface. If so, that will validate the USB communications.

As with most filaments, holes tend to be roughly 0.4 mm too small (printing with a 0.4 nozzle). Otherwise, I haven’t had much problem. What kind of features are off, and by how much?

I have a perhaps unusual situation, but it may provide another clue. I’m running a Surface Book v2 that has a detachable screen that can be used as a tablet. The screen houses the Core i7 CPU with onboard Intel UHD Graphics 620 GPU. The keyboard contains a discrete Nvidia GTX1060 GPU. Sometimes the CPU apparently stops talking to the Nvidia GPU. At these times, device manage shows only the Intel GPU. Either rebooting or detaching and reattaching the screen will re-enable the Nvidia GPU. When the Nvidia GPU is active, Cura runs fine. When it’s in the failed state, Cura won’t launch. So far I have 100% correlation. I have never had to run in compatibility mode or as administrator. EDIT: I have also confirmed that attempting to launch Cura while in tablet mode fails. It seems that many of those with problems are using default Intel graphics...perhaps the is an incompatibility with that family of GPU?

Try setting your line width to 0.399 and see how that slices.

I don’t know about the UMO+ specifically, but I believe this is a lower limit set in the printer’s firmware. It helps prevent gouging the filament by the extruder gear slice 170 is too cool to extrude well. I couldn’t tell from your question, what temperature are you trying to print at? In what range of temperatures does it work? In what range does it not work?

Hi @noodler11, welcome to the world of 3D printing! I am responding to this on a tablet so I am basing this on your text description. When you create a model in CAD like a cube with a tube through it, the model created has an “inside” and “outside”. The boundary between inside and outside is described by the mesh of triangles in the STL file. What you think of as the open inside of the tube is part of the “outside” as far as the model is considered. This is often accomplished by subtracting one shape from another, or performing an extruded cut. Cura treats the surface of the mesh as the “skin” of the model. The skin is referred to in the settings a number of ways depending on orientation, but includes walls (vertical) and the top & bottom layers (horizontal). The settings referencing “skin” specifically affect the outer loop of a wall (or the inside loop of a hole—i.e. the loop with plastic on one side and air on the other). What this means is that it is not necessary in most cases to have different infill settings to describe a void. This works even with completely enclosed voids. Imagine a 30mm cube with a 10mm cube void in the center. If you look at the cross section of the middle, you would have a 10mm thick wall surrounding a 10mm space. For this example, I’m using a 0.5 mm line width to make the numbers easy. The typical settings have walls 3 lines wide. So the outermost 1.5mm is considered “wall”—with the outermost 0.5 of that considered “skin”. The next 7mm are infill. And then there are 3 more lines (1.5 mm) of wall to define the hole. The settings for infill only apply to the 7mm section. When you “slice” a model in Cura, it analyzes horizontal cross sections separated by the thickness of the layer and then figures out what parts of that 2d layer is skin, other walls, infill, etc. It also takes into account the layers below for figuring out things like bridging and overhangs. After a slice is complete, you can examine each of the layers in the preview mode using the vertical slider at the right of the screen. The last example to which you referred is an unusual situation.

I don’t know how to set it up, but I can relate my experience. With an UM3, when Cura connects, it reads the current material config from the printer. So I will have, for example, Green ToughPLA on #1 and White Breakaway on #2. All of the material settings are correctly set. I *think* you can click on extruder 2 in the top bar and select the material for that extruder.

That is a file in the Marlin source code. Main Marlin repository on Github https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin Marlin documentation http://marlinfw.org/

I’ve used the raspberry pi for other things. My UM3 is network connected. I have one printer that is USB connected, but I don’t tend to do long prints on it and am planning to set up octoprint. I’ve had Windows machines go to sleep when not being interacted with, interrupting file transfers...similar concept. I have had Windows force a reboot.

Im just trying to help inform you. I am not suggesting one way or another. I’m sorry if you don’t understand the technology you are using and don’t like to listen to what those who are experienced are offering as advice. When Windows decides to apply a security update in the middle of a long print, don’t say people didn’t try to suggest a better way.

@ksor The reason some recommend against USB for printing is that it adds a couple of failure points. The computer must stay on and responsive for the entire print job. Anything that interrupts that will kill your print. Want to update something completely unrelated halfway through a 2 day print? Does it require a reboot? Sorry, gotta wait until the print finishes. Thus the suggestion to get a Raspberry Pi and install Octoprint. Your computer then sends the entire gcode to octoprint via your network and the octoprint connects to the printer via USB and babysits the printer doling out a few lines of gcode at a time.

That doesn’t look like support to me. That looks like infill, or “internal support”. I cannot tell from your picture, but would it be possible to print it with the cavity facing up? Or even put it on a side, and have the edges of the cavity at an angle so they don’t need support? Anyway, just ideas.

Layer height is not part of a machine definition. That is part of the project settings. in my experience, Cura will start with the same project settings as previously used, assuming you are doing something similar. Or if you are working on a project, changing the printer will only affect settings that have not been overridden in the project. if you have different profiles (like “Fine 0.1 layers”, “Normal 0.15 layers”, etc.) for the different machines, try loading the profile after switching the machine and Cura will prompt whether to keep your changes and will show you the differences.

That’s not the purpose of infill. Your model should have the cutout for the electronics designed in so that the space is never printed in the first place.

That was my thought initially, but with the scale @sean513 mentioned they look like they are 3-4mm diameter. Should print fine, but probably want to be sure there are taller parts and/or cooling towers being printed at the same time.

I don't know anything about the Creality machines, but to use USB printing, yes, the printer must be ON.

Reading you loud and clear... just no knowledge to impart. Someone with more experience on setting up machine definitions will need to reply.

For the pausing issue, check that your Z-Speed limit is set to something other than zero: This should have been fixed in 4.2, but it could certainly cause problems. The other thing to check for the area where it pauses, is whether there are a huge number of tiny moves--possibly caused by too much complexity in the model.

My UM3 alternates which minimizes extruder changes. I have no idea if there is a setting for what you are asking.

Try saving the project (File.Save) as a .3mf file and post it here. That will help gurus to understand the issue.

Search for “support” and it should show you all of the support options.