dfrez

it'll fit on a UM2+ but it spins the wrong way. you can fix that a couple different ways (stepper motor wiring, firmware). but if you just want to print abrasives you're better off just getting the Bondtech DDG.

I apologize if this off topic but I have found that a sous vide cooker and a large Rubbermaid container works very well for removing the advanced support materials you mention. The Sous vide cooker can heat the water anywhere from 25C up to 90C and it also circulates the water. You just need to change the water occasionally. It may not be as pretty as the UM solution but it does heat the water which makes a huge difference.

That explains why it didn’t work for me, lol! I just pasted your snippet into the pause at height plug-in in Cura. It did move the printhead at the correct layer but after it moved the touchscreen froze and wouldn’t let me pause or resume the print myself. The printhead just sat there.

I believe this is due to what’s known as “buffer overrun” I’ve seen it on my own UM2+C as well as my UM2+ when printing over USB via OctoPrint. After a pause on my UM2+C, if the printer starts on an arc or circle, it begins to stutter, which you described as “stitching”. This is because arcs and circles are made up a bunch of linear moves and the printer runs out of buffer basically and results in the slow performance. This is also common when printing over USB because the serial connection has limited bandwidth. There's a Cura plugin designed to solve this called "ArcWelder" which combines these many linear moves into a single arc move which reduces the likelihood of a buffer overrun. But I'm not sure if this would be compatible with newer Ultimakers since they use a different flavor of g-code. The UM2+C also may not recognize the arc command, I know it recognizes a limited number of Marlin commands, hence why you have your workaround for pausing a print, since it doesn't recognize an M0 command. What’s interesting is the latest version of FW for the Connect was supposed to address the buffering issue but my up to date machine still exhibits the “stuttering” after a pause. Firmware Release Notes

Thanks for the snippet! How do you go about using it? Do you paste this into the pause script tool in Cura?

Thank you for confirming that. Might I suggest adding that article to your main network troubleshooting page? I went to the help page straight from Cura after trying to add it via IP and it said nothing about the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. It might save others from pulling their hair out trying to figure out why their printing isn’t showing up.

Apologies for bumping an old thread... but I have my UM2+C connected to my network via LAN and was wondering why I can't find it under "networked printers" in Cura. Even adding it directly via IP address fails. I can only get it to work via Digital Factory. Based on what you said this is normal? I assumed something was wrong with my printer or network settings.

Agreed. The reliability is what I've come to expect from an Ultimaker and the print quality is even slightly better than my older UM2+, likely due to the brand new motion components like the belts and bearings, etc. Regarding the the g-code commands, I tried putting in a layer pause to insert some magnets into my print and it totally ignored it. Come to find out the Connect doesn't recognize g-code scripts like pause and material change. I believe this is something they are working on.

Good to know it's not just me then! It's interesting that your front right screw has the opposite problem to mine. Mine bottoms out before I can get a feeler gauge in there, but yours can't "loosen" enough to close the gap between nozzle and glass. Regardless, the rough adjustment step I was talking about would certainly solve both of these situations. I agree, the print quality is awesome. Can't beat a brand new machine with new motion components, etc. I surely hope there'll be a FW update to fix it. That's the most disappointing thing about all this, they all feel like artificial limitations due to FW changes after coming from a UM2+.

No one else with these issues?

I recently purchased a UM2+ Connect and have found a few "quirks" with it. I have owned and used many UM2+'s over the years and figured it would be a good upgrade. However, I've been feeling conflicted after a couple weeks of using it. There are many things that I like about it. The air manager is great, especially since I use the printer in my home office. The ability to upload files via the cloud is really convenient, no more fiddling with SD cards. The model preview when selecting a file from USB is helpful. The touch screen is good too but could be more responsive, it seems to not register my taps sometimes. First major annoyance is the new material loading/unloading procedure. Why do we have to manually feed material now? This is a huge pain for me because of where I have my printer located I basically have to hug the printer, load the spool onto the holder, insert the end into the feeder and push it all the way in basically by feel. The automated load/unload is a feature for all the other machines even the current S3/S5 which has the same feeder housing with the locking lever. Is this an attempt to make the Connect feel "cheaper" compared to others in UM's lineup? Second is the new buildplate adjustment. The old procedure initially did a rough adjustment at three points and then went around again with your calibration card or feeler gauge. But now the nozzle simply moves to the fine adjustment points, no rough adjustment. Which is fine in a perfect world, quicker and easier. But on my particular machine, the front right nut bottomed out and the nozzle was still pushing down on the glass (other UM2C users have posted about this before as well). I ended up swapping the limit switch screw with a shorter one to address this. But this wouldn't be an issue in the first place if the rough adjustment step was still there. I wanted to add a BuildTak magnetic base but that easily adds another 6-8mm of thickness and I don't think I can use a screw short enough to accommodate that without the adjustment knobs colliding with the floor of the machine. Third is the UI which has been discussed here before as well. I understand many users don't want to fiddle with different settings, which is fine but at least with the UM2+ the tune menu was there if you needed it. These are all issues that could be addressed in firmware updates but unlike the older UM2+ which at least has options like the Tinker FW, it's up to UM now to fix...

Awesome, thanks for confirming that. I noticed the red “prosthetic” when I took it apart for cleaning a couple days ago. I assumed it replaced the flow sensor and is what further led me to believe the feeders were the same. That and why would UM engineer two separate feeders, makes more sense to develop one that fits all of your machines. I wonder if any S-line owners have spare coarse knurl feeders laying after replacing with the fine knurl…

I'm also interested in printing with abrasive materials. As far as I can tell from pictures online, the UM2+C and S-line feeder housings are the same except for the flow sensor and hardened knurled gear. However, the flow sensor is a separate part, so I think that could be removed if it causes an issue loading materials. I think the feeders might be able to be swapped as complete assemblies without the need to swap parts.

Old thread but sharing in case someone has the same issue and stumbles on this thread. I just bought a UM2C and had this exact issue, the front right thumb nut would bottom out but there was still no gap between the nozzle and glass. I’m confused why UM got rid of the initial rough adjustment that the UM2+ has in it’s leveling procedure, where you rotate the control knob until the nozzle is about 1mm away. It would prevent an issue like this. Anyway, I solved this by swapping the limit switch screw on the buildplate carrier. Originally it’s a M3x16mm, I replaced it with a M3x14mm. I prefer this over bending the limit switch, I couldn’t get it to bend enough and I was worried I’d break it if I tried pushing harder Simply pop off the back cover and use a piece of blue masking tape to hold it to the top of the printer to keep it out of the way. Then remove the screw to the left of the lead screw and replace with the shorter screw.

Old thread but sharing in case someone stumbled on this thread like I did. I just bought a UM2C and had this exact issue. I’m confused why UM got rid of the initial rough adjustment that the UM2+ has in it’s leveling procedure, where you rotate the control knob until the nozzle is about 1mm away. It would prevent an issue like this. Anyway, I solved this by swapping the limit switch screw on the buildplate carrier. Originally it’s a M3x16mm, I replaced it with a M3x14mm. I prefer this over bending the limit switch, I couldn’t get it to bend enough and I was worried I’d break it if I tried pushing harder Simply pop off the back cover and use a piece of blue masking tape to hold it to the top of the printer to keep it out of the way. Then remove the screw to the left of the lead screw and replace with the shorter screw.

Sold!

For sale is an Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer. This machine was acquired from a makerspace at a local school where it saw light use. I bought it with the intention to use it for my printing shop but instead I've decided to sell it to downsize my collection. Parts were replaced as needed to bring it back to a like new condition. Maintenance Performed: Interior and Exterior of Printer Cleaned. Check for play on axles Axles calibrated and adjusted for squareness All smooth rods lubricated with light machine oil Lead screw for Z motor lubricated with Magnalube Short belts checked and tensioned Long belts tension checked Feeder disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt Parts Replaced: Bowden Tube PT100B Temperature Sensor Olsson Block TFM Coupler Build Plate Clamps Hot End Cooling Fan Printhead Linear Bearings Rear frame panel The printer will be bundled with all the items that you would receive as if it was purchased new from Ultimaker. Which includes the following: 220W Power Supply Nozzle pack with 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles USB A Cable (for updating firmware or printing over USB) SD Card preloaded with gcode and STL files 2mm hex key, 7mm wrench and Philips screwdriver Printhead calibration tool 750g spool of Fillamentum 2.85mm filament stock clip-in spoolholder will also include a low friction spoolholder for better performance Asking $1400. Available for shipping to the USA (buyer pays) or for local pickup near Buffalo NY. Open to offers.

Yeah, I'm not sure exactly why it causes issues. If I do a single file using "save link as" it just imports nothing and the error report isn't helpful. Either way, glad it worked for ya!

I think your issue is that you're trying to download the STEP separately from Github. I've found that you have to download the whole repository as a zip and then use the file from there (it's under the green "code" button). I have no issue opening the STEP with Inventor using this method. It looks like youmagine is down... but here's an exported STL for ya (see attached) 2129-F.stl

Do you have any pictures to compare?

This is more of a PSA than anything, since I didn't find anything in my search about needing to replace them. I wanted to share the difference that new printhead bearings on my UM3 made. I bought the machine used and it seemed that no matter what I did to the speed/accel./jerk settings, I could not get rid of the ringing. Some background: I was working on the printhead and noticed that the Y bearing felt smooth when moving the shaft axially, but if I spun it I could feel the bearing binding. The X (long) bearing did not exhibit this behavior, it was smooth axially and rotationally. Initially, I didn't think this was an issue since the bearing is only meant for axial motion. I also noticed some play in the printhead when it was installed. I compared it to my UM2+ (which had much less play) and I figured the bearings could use a refresh. Needless to say the new bearings made a huge difference. Both cubes were printed with the Default PLA settings in Cura. The green cube was printed with the old bearings and the orange cube is with the new bearings.

Are you getting any backlash which would indicate the belts are stretched out? See image: If so, then I'd just replace them with genuine UM parts through fbrc8 or other reseller. Sometimes the belts will squeak even when they're relatively new; to fix that I've used a very small amount of silicone spray lubricant on the short belts and that seems to have help with the noise. Doing that, I haven't had any issues with the belts slipping or skipping teeth.

Hah! That's awesome. I guess I need to work on my Googling skills 😛 After reading the thread, now I feel bad for posting how to find it! Maybe I should edit my OP, lol.

I found this the other day while replacing the dial on my printer, it was turned on and while pushing the dial in, I looked down and noticed a block breaker game on the screen! For reference, it's a UM2+ with TinkerGnome FW. If you long press the dial, you'll enter the game. I'm not sure if this is on the stock FW. I couldn't find anything about this in the forums either, so I figured I'd share, lol. Dropbox Video

It's a Misumi LMK6. They're special compact linear bearings, compared to the more standard 12mm OD, like you found. I don't know your location, but you should be able to get one from your reseller. That will probably be the easiest way to get one since the Misumi site says lead times are longer than normal (even though it shows tomorrow as a ship date).