dfrez

bumping the thread again, stumbled on it after a desperate Google search, lol. I had some dissolvable support material split and get jammed in the Bowden. My typical techniques of using another piece of filament to push it out was futile. I resorted to soaking the tube in hot water overnight but that only dissolved the first few inches on either end. Still stuck. Boiling water might do the trick, will report back.

Just a FYI, on desktop, if you hover over the bar for the quote and hit the reply arrow, it'll bring you to the thread. Here it is: Clicky Click

Prime tower or you can try an ooze shield (it's under experimental).

I’ve been using my Mark2 with Cura 4.8, works fine.

I recently upgraded my Mark2 with a 280W Meanwell PSU (GST280A24-C6P) as described earlier in this thread. I initially tried lopping off the original 6 pin Molex and then attaching the Kycon connector for a cleaner install. But the solder cups on the Kycon connector were much too small for the 16AWG wires. After struggling with that, I got frustrated and just cut off the end of my original 220W PSU and spliced the 4 wires together. 😅 Not as pretty as I would have liked, but it works so far. Any suggestions for the power budget settings? Since the new PSU is 60~W more powerful, I simply added 60W to the budget. So my new settings are: 235/150/35/35. I still notice some slight LED flicker...

I did exactly what you said. I downloaded the file in your reply to me, which matches the filename you stated. Then I dropped it into Cura as if it were a 3D model, and I restarted Cura like it prompted me to do.

Since I wanted to be able to access both of my UM2's through Octoprint, I ended up getting a Raspberry Pi 4 (didn't want to mess with trying to run two instances on the same Pi). I printed the same exact models that caused blobs on the RPi2 and they came out flawless with the RPi4. So FWIW, it does seem that part of the issue can be caused by an older Pi. No post processing with the Arc Welder plugin on either set. RPi2 on the left and RPi4 on the right.

I tried this and it's still not coming up. I installed it just fine through the plugin manager on my other laptop which is running Cura 4.6 and Windows 10. 🤷‍♂️

I'm having the same issue as @macmaddog. Running Cura 4.2 on Windows 10. I checked that the plugin was installed, I also disabled, enabled and restarted Cura. Still not seeing the Arc Welder plugin under Special Modes. Where do you find the log file?

When I saw that thread title before making this post, I (stupidly) assumed it was actually for an arc welder 🤦‍♂️... looking closer, I think this is solving my exact problem! The buffer underrun that is caused by too many g-code commands, do you think that would be mitigated by a newer Raspberry Pi? I figured my 2 is a bit long in the tooth anyway. or is it more of a bottleneck caused by the USB protocol itself?

Bump

Hi All, I've got a UM2+ running TinkerFW 19.03 connected to Octoprint 1.5.3. It's loaded onto an older Raspberry Pi 2. I've been using it for awhile without any issues. But lately I've noticed that printing from Octoprint will cause blobs/zits to appear on outer walls. I've watched it happen, the printhead will pause momentarily, depositing a small amount of material. Same g-code printed from the SD does not cause this issue. Sliced with Cura 4.2. An initial search shows that this is due to a buffer issue, that Cura creates a lot of small move commands which basically overwhelms the Octoprint server feeding the UM2+. It's not a power issue since I'm powering the RPi with an iPad charger (12W). Only thing I can think is that the RPi2 is too slow for newer versions of Octoprint? I had been using it for some time without any issues so it's odd that it recently started.

I thought about that, higher temp=faster moisture removal. But I wasn't sure if that would damage the PVA. I saw a guide from UM about drying it out on the buildplate and they said to do 55°C. However, they recommend drying for a measly 2 hours. I suppose I could drying it again. 🤷‍♂️ Just keep measuring the weight until it stabilizes.

I know this is a common topic, but I couldn't find anything similar to my exact issue. TL;DR: Got some PVA that was wet right out of sealed bag. Tried drying it out for almost two days. Still wet. I bought some Gizmodorks PVA and right out of the vacuum sealed bag it would pop and sizzle coming out of the nozzle. Could even see steam from all the moisture. I tried drying it for a few hours at 55*C, still popped and sizzled. I asked the seller for a replacement, hoping this roll had been exposed to moisture before being packaged. The second roll was just as wet right out of the bag. Frustrated, I tried drying again for a few hours, no help. I left both rolls in my dry box for awhile and just didn't bother using them. Feeling motivated, I decided to try drying them again. I couldn't see them going to waste. This time I recorded the weights at regular intervals so I could know when all the moisture had been removed. After drying both rolls at 55*C in my repurposed food dehydrator for 46hrs(!), one lost 0.38% of it's original weight and the other lost 0.56%. I stopped there since I didn't want to run the dehydrator for too long. But it looked like the moisture level was still dropping based on the measurements. Loaded both rolls into my printer, and they still popped and sizzled. I'm at a loss here, I would really hate to waste all this material, but I can not believe this material has absorbed this much moisture! Unless it was left out for a long time before being packaged. I'm also curious how much moisture can PVA absorb before it reaches full saturation?

Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.

FWIW there are quite a few upgrades available for the UM2, just depends on what you’re looking for. Not necessarily provided by Ultimaker, but through the active community here. I have two UM2+, I love them as well. Rock solid printers. One is completely stock, the other has been upgraded with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade (a community project), Bondtech Extruder, Webcam and Octoprint. So I think it has most of the capability of the UM2+ Connect (if not more due to dual extrusion) it’s just not as streamlined because it’s not integrated with Cura Digital Factory, etc.

Hm, I'll have to try that. Been having better luck with these settings after printing a temperature test tower: 0.1mm layer heights Standard CPE profile speeds in Cura, 30mm/s wall and 45mm/s infill. Nozzle Temp: 255-260*C Bed Temp: 70*C Fan: 90-95% The standard settings on the printer are way too "cold", IMO. The standard nozzle temp for a 0.4mm nozzle is 235*C! What I thought was odd, was that the 0.25mm nozzle temperature was listed at 245... Not sure if this was an error in the profile on the SD card or what. I've never changed it. The higher nozzle temp helps avoid under-extrusion and gives better infill structures without having to slow the speeds down excessively. Higher fan speed compared to the original 25% helps with overhang quality. If you print with CPE frequently, I can see the elevated nozzle temps decreasing the lifespan of the isolator. I do have an i2k washer I've been meaning to install... EDIT: I just noticed @CCA1 also printed a temperature test tower and found 260*C to be ideal.

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I was just curious how you calculated flow (mm^3/s)? I'm assuming area in the volumetric flow equation was calculated using line width and layer height. Where flow is q=V*A, V=velocity (mm/s) and A=area (mm^2).

Hey, fellow Mark2 owner! 😛 Been having similar issues with UM CPE (same color too, lol). The infill doesn't want to stick to itself and starts to ball up like yours did. I've used PETG in the past which is similar to CPE and it is also very finicky, I purchased some UM brand CPE hoping it would work a little better. Nope! Even on my stock UM2+, sliced with CPE Cura profile and the standard CPE settings (0.4mm nozzle) on the printer still gives me issues. I've found that adjusting speed and nozzle temp seem to be the biggest factors in print quality with CPE/PETG. I also noticed your layer height was fairly high, I've been trying 0.15 and 0.1 and get some underextrusion at 235C. So I can imagine your underextrusion is even worse at 240C and 0.3mm height. I know it's been quite awhile, but did you find any other settings (aside from 260C) to help with the print quality? At 260C were you also doing 0.3mm layers?

Yeah, I figured most of the functionality would be in the PCB. No idea if the old display would even be compatible, so I agree it does start to add up quickly. Oh well, was just wondering. lol.

As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?

The original values are 140/170/40/40

Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I don't see any holes on the bottom plate that match the hole pattern for the Pi board. The only set of unused holes (4) I can see on the 3D assembly is 50mmx70mm, but the Pi mounting hole pattern is 49mmx58mm. I suppose you could make an adapter or modify a case to use those holes, but I was just curious if there was a change in the bottom panel for a UM2 in 2014 compared to my UM2+ (not sure of build date, before 2017) that prevents directly mounting the Pi with some standoffs.

Thanks for the tip regarding Ultimaker packaging. I had no idea you could buy it separately, would have saved me the headache of a poorly packaged UM2+ that I received damaged.

Does anyone have any tips on tuning the toolchange retractions so that you don't need to print with a prime tower? I searched this thread for specific advice and it pretty much boiled down to: 1. use the default settings of 16mm @ 20mm/s 2. change the speed and not the length 3. depends on material(s) Is the goal to have it just barely extrude material before switching nozzles? My main concern is avoiding underextrusion after a toolchange... A few of the dual extrusion test prints I've done still have a few boogers on the print from nozzle changes and it also makes a huge mess after a long print with the little strands everywhere. I'd be more apt to use a prime tower instead but the Cura 3.2 square tower is annoying.