GregValiant

Locking the spool is not a good idea here. Some of the fish are big. Tarpon and sharks run up to over 200lbs/90kilos/14stone. Rods that aren't secured often end up in the Gulf of Mexico. With the bait out and the line tight to the weight I pull a little more line to hold it with the wire. The pulls a brass shade up between the IR emitter and the sensor. When (if) a fish pulls the line then the wire releases, the brass piece falls, and the sensor sends 9volts to a buzzer. At this point I'm supposed to wake up and answer the fish. It works well and today went off constantly so I quit using it. Today was my best day fishing in a long time.

By the way...turning off "Remove empty first layers" allows you to slice a floating object.

It does look like it plunged into the print. Can you post that Gcode file here? If it happened at the last layer then it might have been the ending gcode.

Changing firmware is a rabbit hole I don't go down. Does the mainboard have a bootloader? How much memory is available for the firmware? Modern firmware may have a lot more commands enabled and that takes up memory storage on the mainboard. For now I think working on the basic setup and getting it to print are the main things. That elephant file showed up pretty much in the center of a 200 x 110 printer bed in Cura. The speeds in the gcode were very conservative. Retract and Prime speeds were 7mm/sec, print speed at 25mm/sec and the outer-wall speed is 18.5mm/sec. With modern materials I think you can do better than that but it might come down to how much flow can the hot end deliver. Retract distance was 1mm. Is that a Direct Drive printer? The build plate. This is way easier to describe than it is to explain. Within the menus on the LCD is there a command for Set Home Offsets? Is there a command for Save Settings? Can you move the X and Y to negative locations? Example: From X0 Y0 can you use the controls to move the nozzle further to the left and closer to the front of the build plate? The endstops are likely set in the firmware. You might be able to shut them off. If you can't, then wherever you put the Home Offset 0,0,0 (or the Auto-Home 0,0,0 if Home Offsets are un-defined) the build plate will still be 200 x 110 from that location. You may be able to move the printable area, but not make it bigger. The first thing - How far to the left can you get the nozzle to go, and how far to the front (remembering to not crash into the clips) can you get it to go?

The firmware setting is M92. You really need to calibrate your E-steps to get it right but if the extruder came with a suggested setting you could start with that. If it didn't - then there are a lot of how-to videos on doing the calibration. There should be a menu item on your LCD as well. It isn't a difficult task. As AHoeben says, you need to fix the problem and not just put a patch over it.

Load a model like that cube into Cura and set up to slice. Then use the "File | Save Project" command. Post the 3mf file here. A project file contains all your settings, the printer, and the model.

I haven't had a good Sunday Morning Rant in a while. I don't know if this will qualify as a rant and I certainly can't tell if it's "good" but I'm pretty certain that today is Sunday. Here I go. A lot goes on in the little space below the nozzle as it extrudes. Zooming in that close I think the Cura Preview becomes a "cartoon". That it loses the exactness of a mechanical drawing (if it ever had it) and becomes more of an approximation or an "idea" or simply a "guess". The extrusion can be drawn in a side orthographic view as some sort of rectangle .4 wide by .16 high but you can see in your images that Cura is "representing" them as some pointy sided shape. That shape likely isn't true. A radius? Maybe...but absolutely not a point. Then there is "how should it be represented" vs "what is possible in a representation" given GPU/CPU/video-display hardware and the software constraints. So how should it truly be represented? In the plan view what sort of resolution should we give it? In a side view how accurately can we represent it. When we orbit the view how do we change it? Heck, what is the actual shape of the plastic as it comes out of a round hole and is squished into some sort of rectangular oblong sort of thing whose "oblongness" is dependent on the speed of the nozzle? I've used rectangles in this "representation" to create an infinitely thin vertical slice through the middle of the part. On the left is the side view of the actual gcode provided by @PDDXPrinting. When you zoom in to the right - (you have to believe me when I say that) I've drawn the magenta colored spline at the tip of each layer at the points given in the gcode file. Then I put .4 x .16 rectangles hanging from each of those points. The cyan spline is drawn through the corners of the rectangles at what approximates the outside surface of the actual print - i.e. how it would look to your eyes when held in your hand. You can see that I've drawn the cyan spline through the bottom right corner of the rectangles below the tip of the part, and through the upper right corners of the rectangles above the tip of the part. I figure that somewhere between the cyan spline and the magenta spline reality exists. Exactly where in that area I don't know. Do the extrusions of the outer wall actually have square sides? Probably not. But I doubt that they have pointy sides as either. Most likely the unconfined-by-an-adjacent-extrusion outer edge of the outer walls is a radius. I was too lazy to add radii but a spline through the tangent points of all those radii would end up between the magenta and cyan splines. So I think the best Cura can do as a representation is an approximation. In CAD software I would expect better. In Cura the generated Gcode path is what it is. We know where the theoretical point that is at the intersection of the centerline of the nozzle with the plane that is the end of the nozzle is going to be at any given point in time. But the shape of the plastic under the nozzle is dependent on a lot of different things and the more you zoom in the more guessing is involved. Educated guesses to be sure, but guesses none the less. It's also possible that all of that is BS and that I've had too much coffee for my own good. I think it's time for more.

That rib was the Z seam location for the lower part of that model. When it ran out of ribs to hide the Z seam at (higher on the print) it looks like the seam was much better. The pin was after a travel move. Round objects can cause long combing moves and oozing with PETG is an issue. Settings like Coasting can make it worse. If you are NOT using Z-Hops then you might try the Post Processor "Retract Continue". Instead of retracting and then traveling the retraction takes place during the travel. I think the thought is that the pressure in the nozzle would be maintained longer instead of suffering from oozing. Playing with the Combing settings may get you different results as well. My thought here is that the nozzle is running dry at the beginning of an extrusion because material was lost during the travel and it's taking 3 or 4mm to get the pressure back up in the nozzle. There is also a setting in Travel for "Retraction Extra Prime Amount". At .4 line width and .2 layer height 1mm of filament = 30.06mm of extrusion. Setting the Retraction Extra Prime to 0.1 would be about 3mm of extrusion. The downside is that it will do it everywhere and a print rarely needs it everywhere.

Do a search here for FlashForge. The subject has come up here a few times. I can't remember the outcome though.

You should just have to set up the Cura "Machine Settings" to what you have there. X(width) and Y(depth) you know to be 220 x 110. The Z(height) should be apparent. It's a rectangular bed and "Origin at Center" should not be checked. Now the Start-Up and End-Gcode could be a little different. After auto-homing I think I'd want it to raise the Z and go to X0 Y0. Then heat the hot end and bed separately (if you have the specs on the power supply you might be able to heat them together). There are some standard settings like G90 for absolute movement and one for setting the printer to metric units. You would need a G92 E0 to reset the extruder. If you install an Ender 3 in Cura you can copy the Ending Gcode from it to your printer (using ctrl-c and ctrl-v because there is no right-click menu). A main setting is the Firmware Flavor as it dictates what commands Cura uses. I suppose starting with Marlin you would be close. Since they were using Repetier then the firmware could be RepRap. Are there any old gcode files around that were sliced for that printer? They could provide clues.

@Minionprinter If the problem is no grips on the model then that has been a popular problem. @ahoeben found and fixed it (provided it IS the same problem). His fix is discussed HERE. If it is the problem you are having then it is just a quick two line change in a file to change it on your machine. It will be fixed in the next Cura release.

I tried to set these up the same. The left model is with a cutting mesh (the printer is a dual extruder Ender 3 Pro) and the right model was altered in MS 3D Builder so that the center area is a separate part using "merge" in Cura (printer is Wanhao Duplicator dual extruder. Within my code in AutoCad - if a T1 is encountered all the following extrusion lines are purple until a T0 is encountered at which point they go back to normal. Unless there is a mistake in my code (possible) it looks like either way should work. I turned off support for these in an effort to unclutter the views.

I take it that means back to the drawing board? You might have to alter the model to break it into pieces so you can assign different areas to the second extruder. There should be a better way than that though. I'll think on it. PS: My original instructions worked for me as @tinkergnome intimated they would. I can't actually print it but looking at the gcode and "printing" it into AutoCad everything looked good. The tool switched to T1 for the "modifier mesh" every time it appeared in the gcode and then it switched back to T0 for the support.

Thanks for explaining.

Absolutely. Your prize is already in the mail.

I'm a beach fisherman. Typically I'll have three rods spaced about 25 feet apart. I'd be yacking with a person passing by, or fooling with one rod and I'd get a strike on another, or sometimes I'd just flat out fall asleep. The un-noticed fish might pull off a couple hundred yards of line before I would notice. So what I have here is a strike indicator system. The buzzer box goes next to my sitting spot and the separate boxes go on the 1 1/2" PVC pipe that the rods are in. The fishing line is held by the pieces of wire on each box. When there is a strike the wire falls off the fishing line dropping the brass rod past the IR sensing switch which in turn passes a signal to the buzzer box energizing the power transistor and making enough noise to alert me to the situation. Next is bluetooth so I can get rid of the wire. I know there are commercial systems but where's the fun in that?

With the model loaded in Cura and the settings the way you want, use the "File | Save Project" command and save it as a 3mf project file. Then post the file here. One thing you can check is the size of the model in Cura. The Scale tool on the left toolbar will give the size in X Y Z (and percentages). Maybe there is an artifact from the redesign that is sitting way out in space and it's affecting the size of the model.

Clue #2 There is a buzzer, 9volt battery, 50ma power transistor, resistor, SPST switch, and a stereo jack mounted in the large tan box.

They are installed and are working. The bed and hot end are heating up an maintaining temps. I can't see any difference in prints yet but I haven't done any real testing. I am pleased to get the current load off the mainboard though. I have already burned up one main connector on the board and I'm hoping that I will avoid a second.

The gray border is your model + the build plate adhesion you choose. If the model is say 280 x 280 and the build plate is 300 x 300 then that leaves 10mm on each side for the build plate adhesion. If you have a skirt at 10mm from the model and 6 loops wide then it won't fit and Cura won't slice. You can try using a single loop for a skirt at 1mm from the model or even go without a skirt. If you choose to go without - then please wear pants as this is a family site.

Very few problems are sorted out by simply throwing money at them. I would think you could install it in Cura as a single extruder machine, get it running well, then move on to the second extruder. In the meantime do some research into the firmware and see if it supports dual extruders or if you will need to update it (and IF you can update it).

@Carbon you will be pleased to know that you are currently in first place.

The ones from 4.13 will work. There are a couple of new settings that you might want to check. I know the default for Wall Ordering is "Outside to Inside" which is the reverse of what we are used to seeing. I changed that to "Inside to Outside" so the inner walls print first.

This is what I've been printing the last couple of days. 5.0 did a bang up job. The question is what is this system for? I'm looking for scientific answers and not just WAG's. The one who gets it right will be awarded a lovely virtual prize cast in beautiful imitation faux virtual gold and virtually embellished in genuine faux imitation rhinestones. Please Note: Any facetious, snide, snarky, or sarcastic comments will be discounted unless they are really funny. Clue #1. There is an IR slotted optical switch inside each of the square boxes.

I don't know your firmware but it would seem that if T1 (extruder 2) is not enabled in the firmware then when the printer sees "T1" it won't recognize the command. My Ender is a single extruder machine and gives back "echo:T1 Invalid extruder" in response to a T1 command. Your primary extruder should be heating though.