GregValiant

Do you happen to have Coasting enabled? That will leave lines that look like they don't connect in the preview but it's because the lines show extrusion moves and when coasting starts the extruder stops and so the rest of the line doesn't show up in the preview. Regarding angled surfaces, Cura is slicing "sections" and so a wall that is 3mm thick and at a 45° angle to the build plate would print in the plane of the slice at 4.24mm wide. That's the plan anyway.

Win 7 64 bit. For Win 7 32 bit you have to use the SmartAvionics 32 bit branch/version.

In line 3 you see ;FLAVOR: Griffon. The CR10 has "Marlin" firmware. Marlin does not support G280 which is specific to Ultimaker printers and that may be where your print is hanging. In Cura, click on your printer, select Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. On the left under Printer Settings there is a box for G-code Flavor. Set the flavor to "Marlin" then slice the model and look at the gcode. You should see a "G140" and "G190" lines like this: ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.1 M140 S60 M105 M190 S60 M104 S200 M105 M109 S200

One of the native-to-Cura file types is STL. There are plugins in the Marketplace for SolidWorks, Fusion, etc. but I'm not familiar with them. It takes about 15 seconds to export a model as an STL from my Win7 desktop and then open the STL in Cura on my Win10 laptop. Slicing takes a bit of time and then the print then takes 3 to 15 hours to complete. I'm running an old version of AutoCad Mechanical Desktop. Parametric models need to be exploded to 3d solids and then exported as STL's. I have never had a bad model doing it that way although I have butchered some designs that needed serious rework. Everybody wants a single app to handle everything but I'm a fan of apps that "do one thing and do it right". Cura is a slicer. SolidWorks is a modeler and assembly modeler as is my AutoDesk app. I write macros for AutoCad and it does tricks for me and I like that. I don't need that level of functionality from Cura (or PrusaSlicer, or IdeaMaker), I just need it to slice things so I can print them without any issues.

Bad model. Your model from the 3mf file is on the left. I exported the model as an STL file and uploaded it to Service.Netfabb.Com (Autodesk site for stl repair). The repaired model is on the right. You can see the issues with your model. It looks like some surfaces are facing inside out. Parts of the model get treated like they are hollow. Here they are sliced together with your profile. This is layer 14 and you can see how much difference the bad surfaces caused. I'll include the repaired file. Service .netfabb.com is free but you need to set up an account (also free). You will notice that your bad model looks different when sliced than my bad model. It has to do with the way the part is orientated on the build plate. I don't know why that is true but when it happens its a pretty sure sign that there are errors in the model. 490051003_BatterySocket_fixed.stl

It's about the same build size as an Ender 3 or 3 Pro. Install one of those and change the name to whatever you want. First and foremost, make sure you know the firmware flavor. I would guess Marlin but that's just a guess. After installing and naming the printer: Click on the printer name in Cura and select Manage Printers then select Machine Settings. The Ender definitions have a build size of 220 x 220 so enter your 230 x 230 in the correct boxes. Double check the Gcode flavor as it must match your machine. That should be enough to get you going.

Actually the main topic is stated by @fvrmr in the opening post and is "We are happy to announce that the Ultimaker Cura 4.9 is here.". (I'm not sure how long the happiness lasted.) Many of the following posts are in regard to various issues that user's have had with the release.

@gsar333 What printer is that? I haven't seen that sort of problem before.

@higgs_bozo Your fix will cause problems because extrusion is in Absolute mode: G1 X10.1 Y300.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line, included only coz i changed my Y value But you didn't add more EG1 X10.4 Y300.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E0 ;This is a retraction of 15G1 X10.4 Y300.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E0 ;E is at 0 but the filament remains 15mm back from the nozzle If you go into a skirt it may be OK but it won't start extruding for a long time. At .4 linewidth and .2 layerheight the ratio of filament to extrusion is 1:30 so extrusion would be postponed for 450mm of movement. G1 X10.1 Y300.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E40 ;Your line is longer and needs more plastic. G1 X10.4 F6000 ;Move over G1 Y10.0 E80 F1500 ;2nd line and more plastic is required again. The Ender 5 and CR10 both get their start-gcode from the "creality_base.def.json" file. All Ender 3's get their start gcode from their own definition files (mine is "creality_ender3pro.def.json"). The only real difference is that the 3's don't define the max jerk, accel, and speed. Creality writes the definition files and submits them to Ultimaker for inclusion in Cura. Until Creality gets off the pot and submits definition files for their printers with ABL so that the start up gcode is compatible with their (now) proprietary firmware, this will be a continuing problem.

It certainly is a mess. I knew that Pause at Height using "At Height" is sketchy if there are Z-Hops in the file (a well documented bug). What happened to you seems to be have been caused by Z-Hops and another peculiar thing. I think what happened is that the first pause was inserted OK but the second saw the already inserted Z values of the first pause and so it added the second pause right there. The two sets of pause code look jumbled/intertwined/just plain weird. I think the search during the second pause routine saw the line "G1 F300 Z15" within the first pause code and so the second pause routine was inserted there as it was greater than the search number 13. Pause at Height works fine if you use "By Layer" because the search criteria is very specific. My suggestion would be to pause at Layer:19 and again at Layer:64.

Ah monsieur, but I write (poorly) a little code. The printer can tell me exactly where it is in a file (M27) I can count the bytes in the file until it gets to the location and hence, what's going on at that byte location and that gives me XYZE. I can then tell the printer to start at any byte offset (M26) with a transition XYZE that brings it all into sync whether I have made any changes to the file or not. The trick is in not allowing the steppers to disable (M18 S14400 in my pause code) so I don't have to do a G28 (can cause layer shift) or allow the bed to cool because the part may pop off. And that's how I play that tune.

a² + b² = c² Entropy always increases. If you let go of an apple there is some slight chance it will go up. Going back even further, it has always been about how you look at things.

"...Auto update, and all the other software to do jobs for you are a sign of laziness that will come back to bite you." Wait a minute...are you saying that I should actually pay attention to what I'm doing? That Microsoft doesn't have my best interest at heart? Heresy!!! These obtuse security updates that nobody understands are important!!! (six exclamation points in one paragraph...I'm pleased!! (make it 8)). If I tell the computer to disregard the network, and I print via USB, and then leave the computer alone to do it's thing it's usually fine. There is still what I call "the M105 glitch". Cura polls the printer every 3(?) seconds with M105 to insure that the printer is still there and responding (Printrun does it too). In certain Gcode situations, the printer input buffer can be "almost full" and will take the M105 and truncate it to M1. This is an easily recoverable "unconditional stop" that is fixed with a button click on the printer. It is however very annoying to come back to the machine and find the print hasn't finished as the printer waits patiently with "Click to Resume" on the LCD. I have called Bill Gates but he refuses to come over to the house and do a button click for me. I find it much simpler to print from the SD card.

I was on my way to writing a book here. Instead - do as gr5 suggests and bring a 25mm calibration cube (from Thingiverse) into Cura and play with the settings and you will see what happens in the preview when you change wall thickness, infill pattern, and infill density. Re-design your model with a shell that is 1.2mm thick (any exact multiple of your line width) and see how it slices. A lot of times people who ask questions here are trying to slice models that have design issues. You might be able to manufacture the model in question using conventional methods, but trying to manufacture the part with FDM won't work. Regarding a wall thickness of 8mm, that would require a part at least 16mm wide or the walls would be less than 8mm. If the part had an area that was only .4mm thick, and your Line Width was set to .4mm, then it might not print unless you turned on "Print Thin Walls". Look at Cura Settings Explained and under the Shell settings you will find info about the wall thickness and top and bottom thickness.

A 4mm nozzle. Ya know, that would be the kind of thing that folks would want to know right off the bat! Is that a pellet-feed type extruder? Or Paste?

If you would use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here that may give a clue.

Just to add to what the others have said - even if you were to print that there isn't any way to get the support out without destroying it. It would be like an eggshell and the support would be stronger than the shell.

Download the Cura installation files. Run the installation program. When it runs it should ask you to pick a printer. (If you have already installed Cura then go to "Settings | Printer | Add Printer") Under "Add a non-networked printer" scroll to Creality and click on it. Go to the Ender 5 and click on it. On the right will be a name box. I suggest you add or change something to make the name unique. Ignore the questions about using the cloud. After installation Cura should start. Look around the screen and learn the layout of the area and where toolbars and commands are. Download a very simple model like a calibration cube from Thingiverse.com. Use the Cura "File | Open" command to bring the STL model into the workspace. (Also download the 3DBenchy but don't start with it.) Play with the settings, pay close attention to how the Preview Pane changes when you adjust settings. Make mistakes. Learn from mistakes. Repeat. The printer has the Creality slicer either on the SD card, or there is a link to the slicer download. The Creality slicer is an older version of Cura. You can have both installed and the Creality slicer (with less options and settings) may be easier for you to figure out. You can start with it and then graduate to Cura.

There will always be some time involved when the printer makes a retraction. It's on it's own line of gcode and that move must complete before the next line gets acted on. Another thing you can do is add a new Ender 3 in Cura. Just give it a different name. The new printer will have all the defaults from the definition files and we know they work. With the max speeds set and Cura aware of the settings you should be OK. There is an add-on plugin in the Marketplace for Printer Settings. When it's active it will be the last group of settings in the settings dialog box on the right of the screen. Go through those and match the settings to what you know to be true of your printer.

"The thing to remember is that there is no spoon" - from The Matrix Philosophy in the morning... The real problem with Hole Horizontal Expansion isn't diameters or bores because there are never any diameters or bores. What we have are certain features that are comprised of a series of short line segments that our human brains see as diameters or bores. The problem is how to get a piece of software to recognize that a particular collection of short line segments constitutes a bore as opposed to some other shape. The problem rests squarely in the laps of a bunch of dead Greeks. The current world record for the calculation of PI is 31 trillion decimal places and so there are always line segments, they just keep getting shorter. How should a swaged hole (even a triangle) be handled? There are 3 facets. Is it a triangle(?) or is it the roughest possible approximation of a circle in a low resolution STL file? I heard that Pythagoras personally told @kmanstudios the answer, but Kman doesn't want to admit that. This is one of those things that the user must keep in mind when using HHE. The user must tell Cura what a hole is. I cranked up the HHE to 3mm on the gear below to show what Cura does. The gaps between the spokes are "holes" and the spokes pretty much disappear as does the hub as the 4mm bore grew to 10mm. Here is the same gear with HHE set to 0, but with a Mesh Modifier in place over the bore and configured as a Cutting Mesh with HHE set to +1. I haven't actually defined what a hole is, but I've told Cura to treat this particular group of short line segments in a different way. I have placed the cutting mesh so the nut cavity on the bottom is not affected. You could alter the print speed in the same manner for this particular area as well. That wouldn't be as precise as telling Cura to make the feature a specific amount larger. This all leads to the horrible statement - "It might look like a hole but its snot." I'm going to have another cup of coffee now. There will be a spoon to stir it.

It depends on what you really need. The tops of the shoulders, the top of the head, the top of her hair bun, the angled portion of the base will all require support. Since they are all over an interior space, that means infill. Without any infill those areas will fail. You can try using support blockers configured for "overlaps". Make one of the support blocker settings "infill density" and set it to 0. For the rest of the model set infill to 15% and then set "gradual support infill steps" to 4. It might work.

Your machine looks like it's pausing for a couple of seconds. The only thing I can figure is that the retraction is really slow. You can't check your "max speed" with Cura, but you can alter it. Bring a 25mm calibration cube into Cura. Make the "Z" = -24 so it sinks into the build plate leaving only 1mm exposed. Set the retraction and prime speeds to 30mm/sec. Slice the model and create a gcode file. Open that gcode file in a text editor. Add these 3 lines just below ";Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.1" M203 X900.00 Y900.00 Z50.00 E50.00 ;Set max speed on all 4 axes. FYI the units are mm/sec M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E1000 ;Set max Jerk on all 4 axes M220 S100 ;Set the Feed Rate % to 100% For an example, if your M203 X is currently = 50 then that is the speed limit on the X and if you tell Cura to move at 150 then when a gcode line like G1 X0 Y0 F9000 gets to the printer, the firmware says "whoa, max is 50mm/sec" and so the printer changes the feed rate to F3000 (mm/min) because of the limit. There was a poster here who was wondering why his machine was so slow and he was retracting and priming 7mm at 1mm/sec. Every time there was a retraction and prime it took 14 seconds to complete. You are only retracting 2mm but if it's at 1mm/sec then the nozzle is going to sit there waiting for the retraction to finish before it raises the Z. Anyway, save the altered gcode file and print it. See if it's quicker to finish the end-of-print moves. If it works and gets off the print in good order then on the LCD select "save settings". If it didn't make any difference then cycle the machine off and on and the printer will forget those setting changes.

Remember that layer numbers in a gcode file start with "0" and the layers in Cura Preview start with "1". When you look at the Cura preview and decide what layer you want to to be the first layer after the pause, subtract "1" and put that number into the Pause at Height dialog box. EX: So I look at the preview and decide that layer 13 will be the first layer of my new color. I enter "12" into the dialog. As the print runs and finishes gcode layer:11 it will pause and so gcode layer:12 will be the first layer with the new color (or with the nut in place or whatever you wanted the pause for).

The "divot" looks like the nozzle is remaining in contact with the print. It doesn't look like anything is taking overly long though. I made some slight changes (in bold) to your end gcode. G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-4 F2700 ;More retraction and a single retraction G1 Z1.2 F2400 ;More rise G1 X5 Y5 F3000 G1 Z10 G90 ;absolute positioning G1 Y{machine_depth} F7200 ;Present Print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M220 S100 ;set feed rate to 100% in case tuning changes were made mid-print M221 S100 ;set flow rate to 100% in case tuning changes were made mid-print M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z so the X beam doesn't slide down on it's own.

If you would post a 3mf project file (File | Save Project) of your model and Cura settings somebody could look at it. Sometimes Support Blockers work and sometimes particular combinations of Settings work and sometimes it's a mixture of the settings and the support blockers.