GregValiant

That is probably how the firmware is set up. Try clicking on the button and select the "Resume Print" from the menus (it should say "Resume Print" instead of "Print from TF"). If that doesn't work then you'll have to experiment. Since my firmware is different I won't be able to debug it.

There are a couple of problems there. The thin sections of the letters are to thin to slice (the L's and E in particular). Load the model and set Cura up to slice. Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf file and post the 3mf file here.

In the Walls section you have the Wall Ordering set to "Inside to Outside"? The "rounded" corners are often associated with the Accel and Jerk combination. 500 Accel and 8 Jerk are good starting points. Going into a corner, slamming on the brakes and the accelerating out is OK for Lewis Hamilton and can be handled by some printers, mine isn't one of them. I generally run the Accel at 1000 and Jerk at 10 for largish models and 500/8 for smaller models. Your model has a lot of straight runs but when a model has a lot of direction changes in a small area (like printing small text) then my printer starts to dance around and all the vibration can end up in the print. The "Extra prime amount" is in "mm³". The length of your under-extrusion x LayerHeight x LineWidth should give you a good base point for the setting. Remember - that setting is going to happen on every prime, not just the one you are focusing on. I have to repeat here though - I think something is going on with the printer. I printed the model and it came out fine so I don't think we are looking at some sort of bug here. I think you may need to send a M503 query to the printer but you need something to read the response. You can use PronterFace/PrintRun or I have a little app I wrote that you can have. I see that your printer definition uses the default Cura setting of 299 billion mm/sec. It is safe to assume that your printer is actually less than that. If the Maximum E speed in M203 is low at "15mm/sec" or something, then it just isn't snapping the filament forward on prime in order to start the extrusion. This is the M503 response from my Ender. The Maximum feedrates are in the highlighted "M203" line.

I added a bug report on Github as #13899.

I checked the model with @ahoeben's Mesh Tools plugin and the model has some minor issues. This is the Cura Prepare stage in X-ray View. The red areas around the base are errors in the model. MS 3D Builder was able to repair it. They are minor errors and didn't seem to affect the slice, but it's good practice to check for errors before putting a lot of time and effort into a print. Your nozzle looks to have started under-extruding at around layer 230 or so. That didn't fix itself as the print continued upward and so things got weak as it grew taller. That really needs to be addressed before you try again. I would guess that the bowden tube isn't tight against the nozzle and a plug of plastic is causing a partial blockage there, but it can be caused by other things as well. Going along with that I would turn off "Retract before Outer Walls" and increase you "Z-Hop Distance" to 0.5mm. You really don't want the nozzle hitting those tall skinny pillars. Wobbling prints. A brim 8mm wide (with the brim distance set to 0.1mm so it's easier to break off). Make sure the bed is clean and you may want to use hairspray or a glue stick to aid the bed adhesion. If that print lifts at all then the walls won't build straight. The front wall has buttresses that help hold it vertical. The rear does not. Your printer is a "bed slinger" and as the bed starts and stops in the "Y" those pieces that will comprise the back wall will want to wobble as they get taller and top heavy. After slicing you can go into the Gcode file and at about layer 200 add the line "M201 Y250". When the printer sees that line it will drop the Maximum Y Acceleration to 250 and so the starts and stops of the bed will be a lot smoother than at your default 400mm/sec². (If you don't enable Accel Control in Cura then the printer will use it's defaults and for your printer that is 400 (from the printer definition file).) Here is what I would do. I added 3 x 25 x 115 support blockers and placed them at the rear wall pieces. Then I configured them to "Print as Support" with an XY distance of 1.0 and a "Z" distance of 0. Next I added more blockers but configured to "Print as Normal Model". They are small at 1.2 wide by 6mm long x 0.6mm tall. There is a set at 35mm off the build plate and another set at 70mm off the build plate. What will happen is the supports will grow and the little tabs will connect the model to the supports at Z=35 and Z=70. So as the back wall grows it will be glued to the supports and keep them from wobbling. I think that needs to be done for at least the rear walls. The side walls are wider in the Y and shouldn't wobble, but as AHoeben says, the nozzle can whack them and they will want to move as they get taller. So there you have it..."break off" supports that are only attached to the model at intervals. I changed the Brim to Inside and Outside and "Brim Replaces Support" is enabled as those support pillars are only 3mm wide and could use some help. Good luck. This isn't an easy model. You could also build some custom supports in CAD and set those models to "Print as Support" with the Cura "Per Model" settings.

I looked at your settings. They are conservative and shouldn't be stressing the printer mechanicals. I don't see any reason in your settings (or in a gcode I made up from your project) that would cause this behavior. If the belts slip then layer shifts can happen, but rarely (almost never) do both belts slip at the same time to throw a print off by 45°. It only takes a second to check the belt tension. They should twang like the strings on a bass guitar. If the "slippage" problem is always occurring at the same time interval after the start of a print - that could mean a bad stepper driver chip on the mainboard that gets glitchy once it warms up. Also check that your mainboard cooling fan is running. Early Ender 3 Pros had to have the layer cooling blower running or the mainboard fan would not turn on. My printer is also an Ender 3 Pro so I know a bit about their hot ends. I went with a Micro-Swiss when I finally got fed up with the constant clogging of the stock hot end. Do you have a plastic extruder on top of the extruder motor? They have a 100% failure rate. Cracks develop around the pivot hole and can be seen if you take the pressure arm of and look at the underside.

I thought that @MariMakes explained quite well that Ultimaker has nothing to do with the SolidWorks plugin. I don't use Solidworks but I did try to contact "Thomas" as there have been other inquiries about the plugin. I didn't get any response and it appears the plugin has not been updated to use the Qt6 controls that Cura migrated to. There is a thread HERE about the plugin. You can also try to contact the author (whose screenname here is @thopiekar) yourself. You can also visit his Github page HERE.

Thanks for the file. If you haven't done it yet, go to the MarketPlace and load the "Printer Settings" plugin. After restarting Cura the Printer Settings section will be below the Experimental section. Within Printer Settings enable "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle". Those are specific for multi-in-one-out hot ends. They keep Cura from dropping the hot end temp to Standby temperature when tools are changed. You can use that model for calibration. Change which extruder prints which model so the model touching the build plate will start out with extruder 1. When a model starts out with extruder 1 the bug I mentioned doesn't activate. If a print starts out with extruder 2 is when the tool changes happen every layer change. On that model it isn't too bad as starting with extruder 2 shows 22 tool changes and starting with extruder 1 shows 18 tool changes. The top section of the model has that plug that sticks up from the model below so there will be tool changes every layer for the top 10 layers.

Go to the MarketPlace and load the plugin "Printer Settings". One of the settings it has is "Diameter". Set your filament diameter there and you should be good. When I set the diameter in the Machine Settings dialog to 4.0 and then checked the Printer Settings, it was indeed listed as 2.85. Setting the diameter in Printer Settings fixed the problem and all the E numbers in the gcode were correct. This looks like a bug to me. It would seem that when one box is changed that the other should update and the "material_diameter" should update either way. That didn't happen. You can go over to Github and put in a bug report. Zipping a project file would be good and provide information to start an investigation.

That is pretty bizarre. To start though - the prints are severely under-extruded. When you zoom in to the images you can see that the extrusions aren't welding together. Did you calibrate the E-steps on the printer? That was the easy part. The other problem looks a lot like a layer shift but the way the models are orientated on the build plate I don't think it can be. Load them up and set Cura up to slice and then select the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. The Cura slicing engine and the gcode reader are separate apps so you can also open your Gcode in Cura and see how it looks. I'm pretty sure that "double-vision" thing won't show up.

Take a look at the tooltip for "Max Comb Distance with No Retract". When it is set to "0" there is never a retraction prior to a combing move. So your printer is traveling across the print to the outer wall to start a new layer and it's oozing all the way. Because there was no retraction there is also no Prime either. That may have something to do with this. It's also dragging the ooze across the print. I sliced your project file and after pasting in my own StartUp and Ending gcodes I printed it. I'm not sure what caused that line near the bottom. Your travel Accel was 5000 so that might have been it. My E3Pro hates going above 1000. You can try making those changes I described. One more might be disabling "Print Infill First". After printing this and looking at the differences between what your printer did and my print I think you may need to take a good look at what is going on between your extruder and nozzle. It's possible there is a partial clog in there and it's impeding the startup flow at the beginning of the layer.

You have "Use Adaptive Layers" turned on in the Experimental section. Your Maximum Variation is 0.10mm. Since there are no curves to calculate adaptive layers for - Cura figures each layer height +0.10 since that's what it is being told to use. So the math (for this model) is really 10/.3 = 33.3. Since Cura will not print a layer that is outside the model you end up with a model that is 33 layers tall and 9.9mm instead of the full 10mm tall. You can see in the Gcode that the last Z height (gcode Layer:32) is: G0 F600 X107.323 Y52.765 Z9.9 G0 F7200 X99.504 Y45.473 ;TIME_ELAPSED:226.715676 ;LAYER:32 And Layer:31 went down at Z=9.6. Turn off "Make Overhangs Printable" in the Experimental section as well. Like "Remove All Holes" it's a niche setting that is handy when you need it but can just be confusing when you don't. Horizontal holes will all print with a chamfer inside because it's an overhang and Cura is making it printable.

Cura adds some of the settings overrides to the end of a gcode file. This is in there: "meshfix_union_all_remove_holes = True" So go to the Mesh Fixes section and turn off "Remove All Holes". That setting likely doesn't exist in Luban. Starting with 5.0 (I think) the Spiralize code was changed. When you select Spiralize now it turns on "Remove All Holes" so if you didn't turn it on maybe that's what did it. Here I've used the "Per Model Settings" and enabled "Remove all Holes" on the left model.

Those settings look pretty normal. Retraction/Prime speed is a bit fast. You might try them at 35mm/sec. Do you have Coasting turned on? If so, turn it off and see if it makes a difference. In the Walls section make sure you are printing "Inside to Outside". It's not a fix but can hide the under-extrusion on the inside of the model rather than showing it on the outside walls. "...always the left corner." Is that where you have the Z-seam located? At 0.2 Layer Height and 0.4 Line Width - 1mm of filament will get you ~30mm of extrusion. You can guesstimate how much filament you are short by measuring the length of those under extrusions. That's pretty bad though. Load the model and set Cura up to slice and use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file. Post the 3mf file here. Right now I'm assuming that the under-extrusion is occurring at the beginning of a run.

I just reviewed a bug report on Github and it involves the same sort of behavior. In that case it appears to be a problem with the implementation of the Prime Tower. There is also a discussion HERE on this forum posted by the same person. That poster has a 4 in 1 out hot end. If you would load your models and set Cura up to slice and use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here I'll take a look. Playing with my printer configured with a 2-in-1-out hot end what I found was: With the Prime Tower enabled: If the bottom part us printed with T0 and the top with T1 there is only 1 tool change in the gcode file. If the bottom part is printed with T1 and the top with T0 then there are 63 tool changes in the file. With the Prime Tower disabled: It doesn't matter which extruder is used for the bottom part - there is only 1 tool change in the gcode. A bit more evidence that the Prime Tower is the guilty party. Maybe @nallath has a take on this. EDIT: I'm getting the same sort of results with a UM S5 as the active printer.

I responded on Github and I'll rehash it here. This looks like a bug to me as it doesn't matter if T0 is disabled or unused. When the Prime Tower is enabled Cura switches to T0. With the Prime Tower disabled it seems to work as it should with no references to T0. I see you have a workaround. The same thing can be done within Cura using Search and Replace post-processor: Search = T0\n Replace = T3\n Use regular expressions = checked The "\n" is a newline character and they are required as shown. Whether it's done in Cura or Octoprint - it's a poor workaround as the movement code at the Prime Tower is still there and it isn't needed (or wanted).

I sliced it a couple of times this afternoon and I tried again a few minutes ago. I wasn't real happy with any of them. Looking at your second image it appears that the cape has some lines on the back that aren't caused by the model size or Cura settings. If you have a magnifying glass take a look at the back of the cape. There may be some poor extrusions there. The tines on the top of the staff and the point of his hat are good indicators. It still looks to be melting down on those features. The model is so small that I don't think I'd trust myself with an Exacto knife trying to clean it up. I'll fool around with it some more tomorrow. I've avoided using the .2 nozzle because I haven't been able to get it to print well. Maybe it's time to try and dial it in.

Wow. Very small and very highly detailed is a bad combination. It's all about getting rid of the heat and my Ender hates the 0.2 nozzle unless I jack up the temperature. The printer will spend a lot of time bouncing off the Minimum Layer Time and Minimum Speed. I'm thinking 30mm/sec, .2 nozzle at .1 or .12 layer height. The support will have to get close to be effective. I would suggest a support blocker on the top of the staff. The fan speed for PLA is 100% for this but I think even with ABS using the fan is in order. Print a sacrificial block or something next to the real model. A calibration cube scaled up in the Z should work. You want all those small areas and spires to have time to cool. There will be a lot of support so any stringing should be to the support. Getting the support away from the shaft of his staff will be tough also. @geert_2 what do you think on this one. The rectangular solid there is 15 x 15 x 38.6 for reference.

Bug reports should really be made on Github but I'll try to help. Level your bed. Print some more little yellow stickers but put "Keep Out" on them. Moth Balls. (Although getting them off the moths can be tough). Nothing flammable/combustible. Mesh aluminum screen might impede the air flow of the fans. Speaking of the fans - I'm surprised you could hear the little screams over the fan noise when the hot ends came to life. I have to go now because my tongue is cramping up from being stuck in my cheek.

When you view the gcode files in File Explorer do they have the ".gcode" file name extension?

Most fractal pyramids I've seen have layers that have "islands" on them. When there are islands the print head has to move from the feature it was printing, across an open space (extruding all the way), and then print the next feature. It then does a travel move back to the original feature and starts the next layer. Models with islands can't really be spiralized because by definition the extrusion should be one continuous extruston from the bottom to the top and with islands it just can't be so. Those lines you see aren't "random" at all but part of a spiral path that has to move from one area to an island. Since it sounds like it's only happening on a couple of layers there may be slight errors within the model that don't get connected. You could try increasing the layer height setting in Cura, or scale the model down in the Z.

I'll guess and say you have your Zseam location set to "Random". Those blobs are something else though. My next guess is that the printer/processor isn't keeping up with the gcode flow and those are stutters. The nozzle has to stop for a split second while it waits for the next command and those stops will leave a little blob. In the Cura Mesh Fixes section check your Maximum Resolution. It should be around 0.4 or 0.5. Smaller values allow really short line segments to be generated in the gcode so it takes a lot of lines of gcode to move the nozzle 1mm around a curve. You could also try the ArcWelder plugin. It converts the little line segments into curves and makes them G2 and G3 commands that the printer calculates as arcs and circles (kind of - they will still be line segments but subject to the Minimum Chord Length setting in your firmware.) Not all firmware supports G2/G3.

I'm sorry I don't know blender but are there options for the units you are drawing in? If you are drawing and export the file as inches then it will come into Cura and be autoscaled. Cura is guessing. So you need to double check the units in Blender and the Blender export utility (if it has options). Once the model is in Cura, select it and use the Scale tool and adjust the Z to 20mm. With the "Uniform Scaling" box checked you should get the X and Y for free. and they should be really close to 50mm. After you do that check the % boxes and they may give a clue as to what scale Blender exported the model. A lot of Cad modeling apps don't care about units. They only know that two lines are "1.00000000" apart. It could be lightyears or nanometers for all the Cad app cares.

Whether the printer came as a kit, or assembled from the factory, there are a couple of things to do to the machine itself to insure the mechanicals are adjusted. Do not assume that because certain parts were assembled by Anycubic that they were assembled correctly. Use a carpenter square and a straightedge and go over the frame. You want the 3 axes to be as close to 90° to each other as you can get them. My ender came with a 2° angle between the X and Y and that was a factory assembled piece. Don't be afraid to loosen some screws and make some adjustments. These are basically simple motorized machines. Next is the X beam. You have dual Z screws and motors with a timing belt across the top. You don't want the two sides fighting each other. The same is true for your bed trolleys. The beams the bed travels on need to be precisely parallel or there will be binding and your prints will suffer. The vertical Z beams also need to be exactly parallel or the X beam will rotate as it rises. With the machine cold - wiggle the nozzle. There shouldn't be any movement but loose hot ends have been known to happen (one of those factory things). Each set of trolley wheels should have one that is mounted on an eccentric cam so it is adjustable. You should be able to just rotate an wheels with your fingers. If you can't then the adjuster wheel needs to be moved away from the slot. If it is too loose then the adjuster wheel needs to be moved in to the slot. When all of that is done then the printer should make nice square prints. The Extruder motor may need calibration. Within the gcode files you print are "E" values and they are in "mm's of filament". When a command tells the extruder to deliver 100mm of filament then exactly 100mm of filament should come out of the extruder. There are a ton of videos out there on how to calibrate the E-steps. This is likely what is wrong with your top surfaces. Going along with this is an exact measurement of your filament diameter. That number goes into Cura and is used to calculate the volume of an extrusion. When people talk about 100% Flow they are talking about the ratio of "Volume of Filament extruded" to "Volume of extrusion at the nozzle". When that is even steven you have 100% flow. If your filament says 1.75mm on the package but is actually 1.72mm when you measure it, and Cura has 1.75 as the filament diameter, you will have a built in 4% under-extrusion. Use a flat topped calibration cube and scale it to about 75 x 75 x 1mm thick. Slice it and print it. Top surfaces are the best for checking the flow to see if you are under-extruding (gaps between adjacent extrusions), over-extruding (ridges and the nozzle looks to be bulldozing plastic) or just right which looks....just right. A magnifying glass can help. Remember these are practices and can be aborted when you see something and recognize that you want to make a change. Non-square corners can be caused by loose machine parts. Extrusion problems can be from E-steps being out of whack. Ringing is usually a speed/accel/jerk thing. It's hard to tune ringing out. You never really turn Accel and Jerk control off. You can set them in Cura to certain values but if you don't "enable" the accel and jerk in Cura then the printer will use what it has saved internally. Right now don't worry about it but you should enable both in Cura (500 accel for everything and 8 Jerk for everything) so you can start building a baseline for your settings. There. Now you have something to do tonight.

Throughout my 72 years I have found that you can never go wrong with a red clown nose. I can see how it might not work for Dumbledore, but I've always considered them to be "A nose for all occasions". Maybe you could wear one and say things like "If I ever catch the student who is responsible for this....". I found this "Nose Box" on Thingiverse. It has a wide variety of noses. By dropping it into the build plate you can get the side you want to print. Scaling it should get the one you choose to the right size. Here I've added support blockers configured as cutting mesh with 0 wall, 0 top/bottom layers, and 0 infill to get rid of a couple and also the ridge that would have wanted to print. No bottom layers, set the infill density to 20% and the Infill Flow to 85 or 90% so it breaks out easy. Maybe you could print it in red? That would make me proud. Oh...make sure you get the Z seam right or you will look silly.