GregValiant

Well I guess I shouldn't expect too much for $155,000.00.

Always go slow when approaching the edge of a cliff. The front end looks like it's off a Confederate/Combat Wraith.

@paoletto is that a "silky" filament?

With your printer active go to Settings | Printer and at the bottom will be Manage Printers. The next window will have a button for Machine Settings. Your leveling commands go in the StartUp Gcode box.

There is no way to "Fix" it without opening up the files and changing the code. I put in a request on Github just for the translate tool so the Y would agree with the Cura build plate. One fella came up with a fix in the code that controls the handles but all the other handles were backwards and it was more confusing than ever. I went back to the standard Cura way. You get used to it but it never feels right. I absolutely know for sure to "Rotate Last".

I run supports and support interfaces at 90% flow. That makes them weaker and doesn't affect the rest of the print. Those settings are in the Material section. You can also set the Support Infill Layer Thickness to 2X your regular layer height. They only print every other layer that way. I usually do that with the infill as well. There is also a setting for Gradual Support Infill Steps that will give sparse infill near the bottom and increase the density as it gets near the top so your roof is supported.

That may be a fault in your Cura installation but there are some oddities with the Rotate Tool that may be involved. When you rotate a model it's X Y Z coordinate system stays oriented to the World rather than rotating with the model. If you try to rotate first and then scale using the handles, you'll see some really weird stretching go on with the model. The only way around that I have found is to rotate the model last (and that includes support blockers). Because the coordinate system doesn't rotate with the model: When you rotate 90° about the Z: The X dimension becomes the Y dimension and the Y dimension becomes the X dimension. When you rotate the model 180° about the Z: The dimensions don't appear to change because the model is still the same size along those axes as it was before the rotation. When you rotate the model 45°: The model size becomes a trig function of however big it was when it was square to the world. If you rotate a 25mm cube about the "Z" by 45° you will see the X and Y dimensions in the Scale boxes change to 25 / SIN(45) =35.3553 but the Scale% remains 100% if that's where it was. If you had already scaled the model then the % numbers may look wacky too. I know...it's confusing to say the least. The numbers in the "scale" boxes reflect the size of the "bounding box" of the model and that bounding box stays square to the world no matter how you rotate the model. But the bounding box changes size according to how the model is orientated within it. Maybe you have noticed that the "Y" orientation of the model coordinate system is "mirrored" in relation to the build plate coordinate system. When you grab the "Y" handle and pull it in IT'S positive direction - the model moves in a negative "Y" according to the build plate coordinate system. Rotate the model last and hopefully your dementia will go back to being dimensions. Bring a model into Cura. Multiply the model so there are two. Right click and select "Select all models" then right click again and select "Group Models". There is your bounding box. Now rotate it.

There are different ways to do it. I altered the Creality_base.def.json file to include up to 4 extruders. That meant adding extruders and nozzles. When I update Cura I copy those files into their respective folders in the new Cura. I altered the creality_ender3Pro.def.json file so it has my own start and end gcodes and some other defaults that I prefer. That also gets copied into a new version of Cura. If you export your settings profiles then you will have them to import after upgrading Cura. One thing about Cura is it is heavily customizable. It does require some maintenance to move your changes from one version to the next but the way I've decided to do it I'm not actually typing in a bunch of changes, just copying files and that only takes a minute or two.

I believe that the "Support Bottom Distance" only comes into play if the "bottom" rests on the model. If the bottom is on a raft or on the build plate then there is no setting for an air gap. Support Bottom Distance isn't available at all if you are printing the supports "Touching Buildplate". Every once in a while I'll see a gap between my aluminum heated bed and the glass build surface. The Ender has 4 adjustment screws and so they can have an effect on the flatness of the bed. When I see the gap, I pull off the glass and get out my carpenters square and square up the back of the aluminum plate to the Z uprights, and then the front of the plate to the Z uprights. The result is that the aluminum plate is flat again and it stays that way for a while until my manual leveling knocks it out of whack again. Another thing you can do for a glass build surface is to add aluminum foil shims between the bed and the glass to compensate for the warpage.

It looks great! I made a "Happy Birthday" cake-topper about a week ago. My wife blinged it and it was all good. (I wonder if I can get PLA mixed with rhinestones?)

That looks pretty darn good. Spherical prints are always tough. Because the printer is so accurate I tend to make tolerances too tight as well. I don't know if you have used these or not but places like McMaster Carr carry brass "push nuts" for plastics. You stick them in the hole (usually a tapered hole) and push them in with a hot soldering iron. These are #6-32 (about an M4).

@soddyshark that is likely a problem with the SD card. Many printers don't deal with cards over 32gb. It should really be a 16gb card and formatted to FAT32. If you have re-formatted your card to FAT32 (and it isn't over-sized), then try another memory card. Someway, somehow this relates to your operating system and the card. If you are using a card adapter at the computer then try a different adapter.

There were some issues with the USB Printing plugin of 5.0beta. I know it was worked on a bit but I'm not sure what changes were made. I always print from the SD card and I haven't seen any issues with pauses. There is a setting in 5.0 (and 4.13) in the Experimental section called "Wipe Nozzle Between Layers" that can cause some movement away from the print. It has a sub-setting called "Wipe Pause". I've never used them so I'm not sure what they entail. Make sure you have them turned off in 5.0. You can also post a problem gcode file and I'll take a look.

"...but still some of these gaps in the skin issues. " I have a different take on that. As the angle between the build plate and the part gets smaller, the step width increases. I can't tell how many skins that area has (2?), but if it's bridging over air then there isn't enough squish because there isn't enough support for succeeding layers. Maybe a support blocker configured as an Infill Mesh with top or bottom skins would add more material to the areas and allow them a better chance at printing correctly?

How are you printing? SD card, Octoprint, USB?

I moved to 5.0. I wasn't much of a fan of the Arachne beta's but the full implementation of the variable line width in 5.0 is much better. The dialog boxes and controls are funky though. If it's because of simple unfamiliarity of the developers with QT6 then that problem will go away. It may be that QT6 just isn't complete enough (or something) to allow controls as most people are used to. If you open one of those "no infill" gcode files in a text editor like Notepad and search for TYPE:FILL does it find the sections of the infill code or is it missing from the gcode file as well. This is your new model is MS 3D Builder. That "U" shaped hole still has issues. There are extra "infinitely thin" surfaces that intrude across the hole. Because the triangles that make up those error surfaces extend to the floor I still get the extra material on the floor as well. The 3mf file below has a model that I cleaned up (Me_box) in MS 3D Builder, and your model. Look at the differences in the Prepare screen both in regular view and in X-Ray view and then slice and inspect the preview. GV_repair_BoxV2.1.3mf

This is from MS 3D Builder and it is the "U" shaped hole in the middle wall. You can see that something isn't right. SketchUp is notorious for things like this. You need to take a close look at your model to make sure the surfaces aren't flipped inside-out, and other errors. After repairing the file at an on-line service I get this...it's still wrong, but at least it's different. This needs to be fixed in SketchUp. The good news is that the Infill is there. Are you sure you have "Infill" turned on in the linetype settings? You can see it in the above image (but I use the sidebar GUI so my screen might be different).

That's the way it works in 5.0. Maybe @nallath can comment on the change and why it was made?

Weld nuts, vibratory feeders, and lizard tongues (to place the nut at the weld location). We used them a lot in auto assembly tooling. I just don't need the size (or torque) of a M8 or M10 for what I do. I use McM brass push nuts a lot but only just the #6, #8 and #10 sizes. Just stick them on the end of my little soldering iron and in they go. It's a piece-of-cake putting in the tapered holes too. Honda (probably everybody else too) uses collared washers in the screw holes so the torque goes onto the collar rather than squishing the plastic under the screw head.

R. Crumb was good. Vaughn Bode was better. I opened up your file and the upper surface of the "O" has problems as indicated by the red surface. It's inverted so the outside is facing inside. That confuses Cura. The problem happens with some CAD programs. Click on the Marketplace button and install the "Mesh FIxes" plugin. I used the "Fix Model Normals" function and it repaired. That tool is good for simple repairs. That's it man. With the repair made it sliced fine.

You can post a project file ("File | Save Project" in Cura) and someone will look. It may be a setting in the Mesh Fixes section like "Remove Mesh Intersection"(?).

No, not mine. It was the build of a poster here. I tried to contact him afterwards but got no response. The thread is HERE. He stated in his post "...with pellet extruder, output around 2kg/h" so he's just a tad higher. At a layer height of 8mm and a line width of 12mm he was going through a lot of material in a hurry. I believe that works out to 4.62mm/sec (with a fire hose for a nozzle). You would need to speed up to ~550mm/sec. My Ender would need to run around 5,550mm/sec. Things get out of perspective in a hurry.

I think if the "squareness" of the printer is off it won't be by much or your previous parts would have shown an indication. Regarding the temperatures - Are you confident in the sending units/thermistors calibration? Is it possible they aren't just measuring the device they are supposed to monitor but picking up some residual heat from another source (like the bed isn't that hot but the thermistor is affected by another device?) When you get a minute, step back and take an overall picture of the whole gizmo. The biggest that's been posted here is this one I named Godzilla. It uses a big ole pellet-fed extruder. He was doing flat panels and wanted to print them in Vase Mode. I helped a bit in redesigning the parts so it could be done.

Hello @Yamie. I read a post on Reddit Cura forum where one of the developers (ghostkeeper on this forum) is working on a fix for what I think you are seeing.

Those aren't written for Cura though. The Cura keywords are: M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} and for the bed M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}