Was there a reason for making the snap-on guide a seperate part rather than part of the body?
Was there a reason for making the snap-on guide a seperate part rather than part of the body?
Are you refering to iRoberti feeder? If so:
Its an optional part for flexible filament so you may want not to use it.
It also makes it easier to print the feeder body in the current form at least.
OK. I think I'll build in a guide on the body. Different processes for producing the waxes!
For all the printers with problems I would also recommend to watch the printhead temperature.
-> Tune -> Temperature.
At the print start it is varying a few degrees.
But on a proper machine, during printing it is normally exactly on the set temperature or one degree below (-1/0). Starting with this condition we should look for improvements.
Maybe we should make a survey on the temperature variation during print.
We should also consider the toyoda idea. As soon there is a problem the machine stops. (Later they went ahead with the name Toyota as Company name). Invented by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sakichi_Toyoda named: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autonomation
In one way it is good that the 3D printers are still fascinating simple. A broken sensor won't stop the machine. Its not there. And if there is a failure on the machine normally we can repair it ourselves.
In some areas like the feeder even a simple mechanical recognition or a sensor, visualizing the force needed to push the filament through pipe and nozzle could help.
If these 'jidoka' issues are interesting we should start a separate thread as this is for the feeder.
Just don't get into the MB 5th Generation effect. Too many false positives due to too many sensors with bad error rules.
You can easily monitor the nozzle temp and bed temp with OctoPrint. I would like OctoPrint to send emails when it detect some issues instead of pausing the print with every minor issues.
IRobertl, any chance of posting step files for the feeder? I fancy trying lost wax castings in alli & the process needs slight differences from 3d printing.
Well,
a/ It's finished :-P
b/ It works :-P :-P
A few pictures of the process:
Waxes ready for the flask
Waxes mounted on sprue
Magically converted to aluminium
Finished parts
Assembly
I made a few minor changes to allow for different processes & material. I also made some changes which don't strictly conform to the requirement to re-use existing parts:
Added a spigot to the end of the yoke and fitted a washer with a similar spigot to keep the spring central.
Used a stud with knurled nut to allow adjustment of spring tension without tools.
Included the snap-on guide as part of the body ( couldn't see any reason to leave it off). There's a ptfe insert at the lower end of the guide.
Added a ptfe bush where the filament feeds in. This is screwed into the body.
Used studs with nuts to hold the assembly on. This was primarily to give the latch & the arm a smooth surface to rotate on, rather than a thread ( I couldn't find any M3 screws with a plain shank). This has an extra advantage in that the motor stays in place with the feeder off, hanging on the studs.
Wow! - I'm Impressed.
Woah. That is so cool
thats kind of cool !
Love it I think I can safely say that's the first time anyone, including myself, has turned one of my models into metal
Here is my small improvement to Roberts Feeder.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide
Based on the V6 feeder I have added a filament guide directly on the Yoke to reduce occurrence of the bearing sliding in front of the filament. I had that issue a lot with V4 and started having it again on long prints.
That looks like an excellent idea. And it looks like the snap on guide still fits, or is that modified too?
Here is my small improvement to Roberts Feeder.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide
Based on the V6 feeder I have added a filament guide directly on the Yoke to reduce occurrence of the bearing sliding in front of the filament. I had that issue a lot with V4 and started having it again on long prints.
Try with some metal eyelets in the feed path, works a treat: Picture shows 5mm, but 4mm (either side) works better - helps centralise the filament and low friction.
Stop reminding me I have to make a new version of the body for the eyelet that comes on the newest feeders. Nicolinux asked me to do it aaages ago and I still haven't gotten around to doing it I did start though, a few weeks ago, and then.. yeah... So, how was your day?
Stop reminding me I have to make a new version of the body for the eyelet that comes on the newest feeders. Nicolinux asked me to do it aaages ago and I still haven't gotten around to doing it I did start though, a few weeks ago, and then.. yeah... So, how was your day?
:-P I just used these eyelets off eBay with a dab of superglue to hold them securely in place. They work great - the 4mm especially. No pressure :wink:
And I wanted to measure the metal thingie for ages but didn't come around to take the standard feeder apart (because I hoped Robert would be finished with the mod before that)
The optional guide still fit with not changes and the guides added to the yoke are made so they dont hit the existing one. The front guide is smaller than the back one to prevent hitting the set screw of the feeder knot.
Those thingies could help for rigid filament but they might not help much with flexible filaments like ninja flex. Speaking of which I'll have to test those out...
@shiremog: How did you produce the wax model? Did you 3D print using a wax filament? If so, where did you get the filament?
Perhaps not the same method used by shiremog, but interesting enough all the same ;-) http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/
Yes, I'm aware that you can do lost PLA casting - and I am kind of curious why Shiremog didn't, but it's the process for producing that wax model that I'm really asking about.
@shiremog: How did you produce the wax model? Did you 3D print using a wax filament? If so, where did you get the filament?
I used a 3d engraver (Roland TS30) to mill them from carving wax. The finish is better than you ( or at least I!) could get with 3d printing.
I've not heard of lost pla casting. I'll have to look into that.
Just for the record, a plug-and-play adaptation of the flex3drive will soon be available for the UM2, designed by Mutley to use the existing printhead parts.
I've not heard of lost pla casting. I'll have to look into that.
Do a search on youtube ;-)
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For a cool project like that? Hell yes I'll see if I can get that done later today.
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