This worked just fine at 10mm^3/s, i also tried the larger 8-15mm^3/s cylinder, but that failed due to layer adhesion problems like above at 11mm/s.
This is with Anders Olssons new heater block design and E3D 0.4mm Nozzle.
This worked just fine at 10mm^3/s, i also tried the larger 8-15mm^3/s cylinder, but that failed due to layer adhesion problems like above at 11mm/s.
This is with Anders Olssons new heater block design and E3D 0.4mm Nozzle.
*) I do have print failures - not a single successful print done so far. Even when using glue the prints comes loose off the build plate.
You probably need to level your bed a bit better. Slightly closer to the nozzle I think.
Hello everybody,
I am having problems with the extrusion and the extrusion test fail at 4 or 5 mm/s, I solved it partially loosening the head screws and touching the g code as describe to raise motor amps to 1500mAh.
It goes now to 7mm/s without problems, from here is under extrusion everywhere.
My question is, do I have to touch the gcode in regular printing if I see under extrusion ?
I have already clean the nozzle and nothing seemed to be wrong. My ultimaker worked flawlessly till now. I just give a try to colorfab XT, never printed abs, only PLA from ultimaker or innofill.
Thank you
A short clip showing the print and result. Only a little underextrusion at the transition from 9 to 10mm³/s. :mrgreen:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kN3ztfoFHfo
After replacing my 1-year old teflon coupler with the new one, the printer hits again 10mm3/sec like a breeze! Yuppee-doo!
What about the "1500mA" mod? (M907 E1500)
Looks it improve the extrusion for me, but is it really a good thing to put in all prints?
Has anyone achieved 15mm/3 sec?
Sure. No problem. .. question is with what size/type nozzle can easy go over 20 with a 0.8 mm nozzle. Not sure what my top is with a .4 nozzle....
Has anyone achieved 15mm/3 sec?
Yes with a 0.4 nozzle
Anders hotend
UM2 stranded hotend
OK i meant with a standard factory spec with 0.4mm nozzle :cool:
I see Cor3ys hitting the mark. Who else?
OK so these have been my efforts at this extrusion test. These have been done with a Flex3Drive equipped UM2. Black and White ABS and PLA. All the settings on the machine are the default aside from the changes necessary for the Flex3Drive (ie e steps and motor direction). I have not done the E motor current mod (set to 1300ma)
The middle narrower cylinder is a 20mm/3 speed test - Black ABS - Im not sure if it did run to its maximum speed near the end on this cylinder (i think there was a limiting factor in one of the machine settings like max feed rate or similar) i think it toppped out at 17mm3 for the last three speed segments i will be investigating and retesting this one.
The PLA was done at 225c the ABS at 250c. These were all UM filaments.
The blue cyclinder on the right is the standard issue UM PLA that comes with the machine, the changes in appearance (translucency towards the top) was me turning up the temp mid print.
Then i did some retract torture tests. These have had NO post processing and are exactly as they came of the machine (not sure if i should post these elsewhere? i couldnt find a "retraction test" thread)
And you can see a time lapse here (sorry i couldnt help myself )
Looks pretty good!
What retraction settings did you use, the UM2 default as well?
Retraction is in the region of 1.5mm +- 0.5 depending on material, temps, travel speeds etc. Retract speed can be as low as 10mms upto around 30mms, again dependant on material type and temps. Too fast and you can find some odd artifacts possibly due to air being sucked in or excessive back pressure in the melt zone.
A safe setting for majority of materials would be 1.5mm at 15mms.
Note: using a 1.8 degree stepper on E axis!
That's cool. I think I was a little too fast then because I had these artifacts especially with many retractions and only little extrusion in between. Will revisit this.
I also found turning up material flow to around 120% made a lot of difference with some filaments.
Ill soon write a new post dedicated to Flex3Drive as I dont want to steer this topic, off topic
I had issues...
So my path to 10mm3/s included making the head screw barely finger tight, loosening the screws on the feed mechanism a bit, reducing the tension on the filament mechanism as much as I could, and setting the feed motor amperage at 1300. I saw no improvement at 1500 which I did try.
There is a bit of oozing as it changes layers but that's a separate problem. I had a horrible time with underextrusion and could barely print at 50mm/s.
The other changes were incremental but the largest jump was when I loosened the head screws.
A good test would be tightening those pieces and recording results with an adjustable torque driver so we can have precise points of measure to compare rather than just 'slightly loose' or 'barely finger tight.'
A good test would be tightening those pieces and recording results with an adjustable torque driver so we can have precise points of measure to compare rather than just 'slightly loose' or 'barely finger tight.'
I'm not sure but I don't think that would help. I think the problem is how strong the bowden is pushing on the white isolator. The harder you push the more the isolator warps and the tougher it is to get filament through. This means it's not quite so much how tight the screws are but how tight the bowden was before you starting tightening the screws.
I could be wrong but I can't imagine any other possibility.
Just after changing the teflon coupler from a new one. It rocks!!
First try. I get this printing at 230C/60C. Although it fails somewhat at 9/10 mm3, I will let it alone like that.
By the way, if 8mm3/s is safe for my printer. Would that mean that I can extrude filament through the nozzle at 66mm/s ? (8mm3 / (0.12 mm3 per mm of filament) = 66mm)..
If I use Pronterface to extrude 1000mm of filament at 66mm/s should it succeed, right?-
With 290h old PTFE coupler -> 2mm/s
New PTFE coupler -> 10mm/s
Should get a whole bag of them :-)
By the way, if 8mm3/s is safe for my printer. Would that mean that I can extrude filament through the nozzle at 66mm/s ? (8mm3 / (0.12 mm3 per mm of filament) = 66mm)..
If I use Pronterface to extrude 1000mm of filament at 66mm/s should it succeed, right?-
You can use 8mm^3 / nozzle size / layer height to calculate your maximum printing speed.
For example for 0.2mm layer height:
8 / 0.4 / 0.2 = 100mm/s
So you should be able to go to 100mm/s, in theory.
230C using ColorFabb Pla on a month old UM2
Been having random layer underextrusion for the best part of two weeks - tried 260C heating, atomic pulls and using 0.4mm needles to clear nozzle blockages but still getting problems.
Really stressing me out if I'm honest! Any ideas/suggestions please folks?
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The same test with the supplied clear plastic PLA from Ultimaker generated a successful cylinder, with some hints of slight underextrusion regularly at 10mm. I was already happy with the above purple test since the fail had other causes than underextrusion though.
(Regarding getting prints to stick unfortunately it doesn't matter if I use a spotless glass plate or glue - but that's for another thread.)
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