Faberdashery PLA. iRobertl feeder modded with metal eyelets in filament path. Cylinder came out perfectly. Printed at 230C
Faberdashery PLA. iRobertl feeder modded with metal eyelets in filament path. Cylinder came out perfectly. Printed at 230C
BEFORE AND AFTER MAINTENANCE, 30 Minutes from zero to hero.
Read about it here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8467-serious-underextrusion/?p=80124
I have UM2 since March. Nowadays, the bowden tube shows signs of wear and tear. I hope to get an advice to find it on the internet.
Recently, the famous Robert's feeder was installed and it is real pleasure to use. However, my machine struggles to go to 5mm3/sec even with it. I put a few drops of machine oil into the existing bowden. What else can be done?
A new teflon thingy costs 15Euro, but the shipment shows as another 41E! :-(
I feel it also helps to get a more straight fillament path into the feeder.
the simpelest way to do this is to put your fillament on spoolholder not connected to the printer, and to put it a bit lower (on the floor..) although to low can also create a mess when fillament start unrolling ...
I came up with these ideas ....
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-spool-connector
(for last link look at the 3th picture)
and about your bowden, can you show a picture of the wear ?
My one week old UM2 successfully completed the cylinder test! Had some initial issues however with the spool holder causing binding of the filament. First few attempts at some longer print jobs resulted in spool wandering away from the printer creating excess drag and subsequent filament grinding and failure. Got that figured out, then found I now had an obstruction in the nozzle. Atomic cleaning to the rescue and then I ran the cylinder test. Since then I have printed and installed Roberts spool holder upgrade and extruder mod. Works wonderfully now without worry of feed issues.
So, here is one end of my bowden, the other one looks very similar. Any ideas where to get a new one and what else could be done to improve my UM2 output back to 10mm/sec3?
Shurik, just cut a little piece from your bowden tube (about 10mm) so that the bad part moves down and ouf of the way of the coupling collet.
So, here is one end of my bowden, the other one looks very similar. Any ideas where to get a new one and what else could be done to improve my UM2 output back to 10mm/sec3?
The shop sells them: https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/39/Bowdentube
I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.
To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.
Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:
?
I can't see the specs for the bowden tube you mentioned. You'd need to know the inner and outer diameter.
But why not cut a little piece? It is easy. I just did it a few days ago for my 3DR printer. Granted it was a bowden tube for 1.75mm filament - but if you use a very sharp blade - I don't see why there should be a big difference.
I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.
To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.
Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:
?
Best contact the seller and ask them directly - once you've measured the relevant dimensions of the tube you're replacing :-)
I think the inner diameter is 1/8 inch probably (3.175mm). Make sure to get 3X what you need because the tolerance isn't great and you need to test the inner diameter and discard any sections that are too thin. This tubing is easy to get in the USA but I don't know about other parts of the world. I think it's used by Air Conditioners so any company that sells AC parts.
If you want to go third party, then as a first call, I'd suggest you email/phone UM for the spec of the tube they supply? Or... just measure the tube dimensions for yourself and then check with the seller that what they're offerring is equivalent?
Personally I'd just bulk up my order from the shop to make the shipping worthwhile... as there's going to be other parts you'll probably need in the future.... teflon couplers... for instance.
I trimmed mine. Took about 2cm off. No major issue. I did this as a time saver for when I need to order extra parts this way I can combine shipping
You can check the github for specs of the bowden. It should be there.
Yup, thanks. The specs are 3.175+/-0.05mm for inner diameter and 6.35mm for the outer one. Will check on ebay first.
I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.
I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.
Its already compiled into gcode, just drop that file on your SD card and pop it in the printer.
^^Thanks Tottenham.
Well I got to 7, but as you can see it started to underextrude by the 8mm/s mark.
Edit: Just noticed the original post said 230c. Will try again.
Yup, that did the trick.
nice work Tiny
nice work Tiny
Thanks Skint. It was interesting test for me as I've never seen my UM2 run that fast before.
Extrusion cylinder test, Ultimaker 2 received last week. The PLA used is by Velleman, bought from kjell.com in Sweden.
As far as I've been able to understand the comments in this thread, I probably* don't have any extrusion problems. The fail is (?) because of the layer not sticking to the one under it.
The second image shows the inward bending of the layers just on top of the bottom.
*) I do have print failures - not a single successful print done so far. Even when using glue the prints comes loose off the build plate.
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I did the test and this is my result:
I found a bad quality in the first layers as you can see them in this picture.
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