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mr.-waldorf

Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

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Hi!

I switched to white ColorFabb and left a print on over the night. I got the problem I've talked about in another thread (too much grinding causing a jam). There was some yellowish goo on the print and I don't know if that helped but I decided to do the cylinder test again.

I also "installed" a filament guide making the path much straighter.

Photo 2014 05 26 19 24 14 (1)

I ran the test twice and it didn't skip until 10mm!!

After some more printing I switched back to the original bluish grey color and this time it started skipping at 7.

Photo 2014 05 26 19 16 21

I guess it also helped not printing upside down :D

 

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Looks like the extrusion is ok at 10 but the layers aren't cooling enough before the next one is laid down. For the tests I did above 10mm3/s I used an extra fan which helped with that. Realistically though I doubt it would happen on a real print, except maybe a vase.

Over the weekend I printed a spacer bracket for my bike that keeps eating number plates, at an flow rate of 7.5mm3/s in Colorfabb XT and it came out beautifully, with the fans at 30% for all but the last layers that required more cooling, so the higher flow rates are proving useful when printing parts with .25 mm layers. Before all the mods I was limited to about 4-5mm3/s.

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So...

The new Teflon Piece arrived, and it made a big difference as you will have seen from my previous posts. Today I changed the material and took the time to perform a test of the 'hot push, cold pull' with the new teflon.

You can see below the difference between the results from the old melted teflon and the new shiny teflon. The bulge at the neck on the melted teflon sample is where the filament was getting stuck and causing extrusion restrictions.

Before Replacing Teflon - note the neck bulge :

HotPushColdPull.JPG

After replacing teflon - much cleaner

WithNewTeflon.JPG

 

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Hi everyone, I've had my UM2 for about a week and a half now, it was amazing out of the box, I tried my first 7 hour print and at some point the filament broke just after the feeder and jammed up the bottom of the tube. I had to take apart the feeder and the head to get the tube out. I then ran the tube under hot water and yanked the filament through the tube. I put everything back together and have had all kinds of problems since. I ran the 8 - 15mm test and as you can see it's a huge mess. Did I do something wrong when I put things back together? Any advice on improving my print quality?

20140616 211942

 

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8mm^3/sec is a typical or at least reasonable top speed. Try printing the other cylinder please. And you must print it at 230C because it's harder to print at lower temps and if it fails it means nothing. And it's easier to print at higher temps so if it prints just fine at 240C that also means nothing. So please print it at 230C. Also I think your printer is upside down :).

So go to the very first post in this topic and download and print *that* test cylinder. At 230C.

 

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The test print looks fine. It's skipping slightly at 9 or 10mm³/s. That's perfectly good. Just the way that the filament is coiled on the roll can affect the final few mm³/s of throughput. In practice, it's very unlikely you'd print that fast in a real-world print.

The shrinking at the bottom is probably due to the bed being too hot. The printer defaults to 75º for the bed temp - try lowering that to 60º.

What other problems have you had?

 

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okay, glad to hear that the print is good. Here's the other problems I've been having, I've had some stringing issues recently, especially when the print is done and the head moves away. There tends to be some oozing while the head heats up. When the print starts and the head starts to eject while it's moving towards the build plate the plastic coils up around the nozzle. My biggest problem is when the print starts and what I call the outline is printed, the nozzle doesn't seem to be close enough to the buildplate for the plastic to stick, all the plastic just kinda clumps up on the nozzle until it catches the build plate then gets dragged out along the printing area, but as soon as the main object starts printing everything seems fine. I've tried leveling the buildplate a few time and it didn't seem to help.

Hope all that makes sense. Mind you all this started after I took the head and feeder apart, so I've been thinking that I didn't put something back together correctly.

 

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Most of those issues that you mention sound like they may be related to the firmware's start-up and bed homing code - which are all things that have changed in the last few days.

I suggest going to software.ultimaker.com, and getting the latest Cura (14.06.1 or later), and installing the firmware from that.

The start up sequence still needs a bit of work (see also http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6064-cura-1406-filament-grinding/page-3). You should really use tweezers to grab the initial priming extrusion, and get it out of the way at the start of the print.

 

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Thanks for the advice Illuminarti, I tried a print last night with the bed at 60 and the print detached from the bed before it was finished. But as long as I know I'm extruding correctly I'll work with the bed and figure out a sweet spot for the temp.

I'll also update the firmware and see what kind of difference that makes.

Again, thank you all for the advice and help, greatly appreciated.

 

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If the print is coming off the bed, it might be due to temperature or first layer height - you certainly want the first layer to look slightly squashed into the bed, and not like the plastic is being laid on top of it. Small parts, or parts with sharp corners may benefit from using brim to add contact area, and spread out the forces on at the corners.

Glue can also help; apply gluestick thinly before the print, and then spread it with a wet paper towel, so that it dries into an almost-invisible film.

 

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I tried a print last night with the bed at 60 and the print detached from the bed

 

I've done experiments with this sort of thing here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

There should be no stickiness difference between 50C and 75C. I think your lack of sticking had more to do with glue, oils (clean the glass occasionally) and leveling such that the first layer is squished nicely into the glass.

 

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So things have been better, I downloaded the new cura, updated the firmware and ran the test again, got up to level 9 before I started getting spacing between the layers. I also printed up the low friction spool holder and a new filament guide which I've noticed has taken a ton of tension off the line to the feeder. I'm in the process of printing Roberts alternative feeder to see if I like that one better then the stock.

I switched out the blue pla for clear, i'm playing with the clear just to see what it's like, I'm going to switch again to some grey pla to see how that prints, I've read that the blue stuff is hard to work with. I'll post a print of the grey stuff once i switch it out.

 

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Wow, that was a long read.

I'm interested in doing the testing for the UM1, to get it right finally. It's been messing up prints randomly, at the first layer and later.

We could make a seperate thread for UM1 tests, or just add a new list in the first post.

Can you just load the Gcode file on the UM1? Or do you need to rework stuff since there is no heated bed etc?

 

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Just got my UM2 this week. Despite some issues, this seems to be the typical result.

Extruder Test

This is good, yes?

Also, how is print volume speed (mm^3/s) calculated from print speed (mm/s) and layer height?

The test file is done with .25 mm layers, but at what speeds?

For 0.1mm layers these values were listed:

 

3mm³/s = 75mm/s

4mm³/s = 100mm/s

5mm³ = 125mm/s

6mm³ = 150mm/s

7mm³ = 175mm/s

8mm³ = 200mm/s

9mm³ = 225mm/s

10mm³ = 250mm/s

 

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