Post your latest print!

[sigi 0]

What I learned since Friday is, that drawing and rendering on the PC is far away from the reality. :-P :-P

It took some attempts to get all the prints finished in a way that everything fits together.

But this noon the last part went out of the UM2.

Next the first pictures of my son's new excavator: :-P :cool: :-P

 

I would be thankful for some advice about which filament to use for the chains to get them flexible.

Which flexible filament should I try?

 

[mr.-waldorf 0]

Hi Sigi,

You are a dangerous person, we leave you alone for a bit and you appear with extraordinary things...

Congratulations, I really like your excavator.

 

[sigi 0]

Hi Sigi,

You are a dangerous person, ....

 

:cool: :eek: :arrow: :-P :-P

 

[drayson 75]

Looking at your designs Sigi let me think that I also should start producing.... a son :smile:

Otherwhise I can´t explain why printing toys...

That´s one of the best examples for usefull useage of a "men´s toy" as my girlfried always name it.

Imagine, how expensive such nice toys are in the shop... "Honey, we saved money..."

Congratulation to your designs!

 

[skint 61]

haha, drayson... funny. you sound like my g/f

I was playing around with some design ideas last night and thought it would be great if I had a set of G-codes for Nuts & Bolts, lots of premade printable sizes from M2-M16.

So.. I thought I would have a go at modelling one ( I use PTC Creo for 3D modelling ),...and see how hard it is to get a working nut & bolt set.

Here is an M16x70 bolt and nut.... it worked quite well, although my clearance's need to be a little larger as it was a little too tight in some places.

Does anybody have such a library of parts? Maybe this forum should have a " Request model`s section " ?

 

[jonnybischof 60]

When it comes to standard parts (like bolts and nuts), I prefer normal steel hardware. It's 1000 times stronger, and even cheaper if you value your time

It's still cool to see that it's possible to print working bolts & nuts, but in the end that's just for fun...

 

[skint 61]

Hey Jonny, Yep I agree that standard bolts & nuts are the best way to go. But last night I needed a M16 bolt which I did not have lying around, also I wanted one which was 120mm long. Sometimes maybe we need a size we do not have.

Your right about the time, they do take a while!

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Hey Skint,

If in doubt, always perform a "parametric <insert_your_keyword_here>" search on thingiverse

 

• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647
  
• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363/
  
• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8793
  

 

[cez_etc 0]

I was playing around with some design ideas last night and thought it would be great if I had a set of G-codes for Nuts & Bolts, lots of premade printable sizes from M2-M16.

...

Does anybody have such a library of parts?

 

There are several online libraries for small parts like nuts & bolts, e.g. TracePartsOnline . They provide CAD data in several formats but you might need some kind of CAD program to convert it to stl files.

As an engineering student, I used Partcommunity for my design projects because of their great range of manufacturers' catalogs but it is fairly overwhelming at first and I read in the terms of service that you shouldn't use their CAD files to duplicate the parts. Oh well.

 

[skint 61]

Niko, yeah I did just that, but didn't quite find that quick one click away download lol.

Thanks CEZ, I have used traceparts before..but I don't think I have used Partcommunity before, I`ll check that out !

 

[onkelgeorg 36]

Have you checked this?

https://grabcad.com/library/m8-din-912-hexagon-socket-head-allen-head-cap-screws

hope this helps

 

[onkelgeorg 36]

First post in this section, having fun and making money with my new toy! Keeping it basic with the Ultimaker Robot printed in XT on my Ultimaker Original and a Rose I printed for my GF since I spend more time with my printer than her recently.

 

Could you please tell us which slicing parameters you used for the robot? I stil lhave some issues with the overhangs :oops:

Cheers,

Joerg

 

[gr5 2,173]

I don't remember the exact settings for this. It was .1mm layer height. UM original - no heat. heat higher than 60C is going to make the overhangs droop. 100% fan, printed slow - I think maybe 30mm/sec? Maybe 20mm/sec?

To make the antennas come out so good you will either need "cool head lift" checked or do what I did which was to simply print 2 robots "at the same time" (not one at a time!) to allow the plastic to cool before the next layer of antenna is printed.

I also printed the plastic very cool. I think 210C. I have notes somewhere plus I posted all the info somewhere else in this forum.

 

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Here it is:

 

• http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality
  

 

[braddock 1]

well... this is the result of may latest print, though not via my ultimaker. Wax master was printed at 0.016mm layer height, then cast in Bronze via Lost Wax casting.

I did use the ultimaker for the test print to get the size right etc.

test print

final piece

 

 

[skint 61]

Braddock, that's awesome! Do you perform the investment casting yourself too ?

 

[onkelgeorg 36]

@gr5 & nicolinux: Thanks for the input, I'll try it asap

 

[lennart-bruggink 3]

haha, drayson... funny. you sound like my g/f

I was playing around with some design ideas last night and thought it would be great if I had a set of G-codes for Nuts & Bolts, lots of premade printable sizes from M2-M16.

So.. I thought I would have a go at modelling one ( I use PTC Creo for 3D modelling ),...and see how hard it is to get a working nut & bolt set.

Here is an M16x70 bolt and nut.... it worked quite well, although my clearance's need to be a little larger as it was a little too tight in some places.

Does anybody have such a library of parts? Maybe this forum should have a " Request model`s section " ?

 

Awesome! keep it posted here!

 

well... this is the result of may latest print, though not via my ultimaker. Wax master was printed at 0.016mm layer height, then cast in Bronze via Lost Wax casting.

I did use the ultimaker for the test print to get the size right etc.

test print

final piece

 

 

 

You never cease to amaze to what the normal man can do with printing!

love it!

 

Braddock, that's awesome! Do you perform the investment casting yourself too ?

 

And of course HOW do you do it?

What sand, material, printer(DLP-type?) you used?

What is a good source for getting Bronze? That sort of stuff!

Also my first "order". For people with mental problems, defining what the problem is through the use of playmobile/duplo figures to get a bird eye view of the persons environment, the mom of my grilfriend asked me to make "emotion"representing figurines (color was more important than shape). So Yes we can!

Cheers!

 

[sigi 0]

Looking at your designs Sigi let me think that I also should start producing.... a son :smile:

Otherwhise I can´t explain why printing toys...

That´s one of the best examples for usefull useage of a "men´s toy" as my girlfried always name it.

Imagine, how expensive such nice toys are in the shop... "Honey, we saved money..."

 

I never calculated how expensive a son will be until he starts to have breakfast in his own four walls .... :-P :-P :-P Not sure if a 3D printer might be cheaper ... :shock:

Anyhow you should definitely start producing .... a son :-P Printing toys together with a son is the 'real tinkering'. :cool:

 

[braddock 1]

Hi guys, my cast pieces are done by a foundry here in Sydney, called Chemgold. I believe they use a high end printer manufactured by DigitalWax Systems

http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Article.aspx?id=2544&h=Chemgold-introduces-Australian-first-technology.

Eventually I'd like to add a DLP printer, or SLA printer to my bench so I can print my own wax masters.

 

 

[onkelgeorg 36]

I don't remember the exact settings for this. It was .1mm layer height. UM original - no heat. heat higher than 60C is going to make the overhangs droop. 100% fan, printed slow - I think maybe 30mm/sec? Maybe 20mm/sec?

To make the antennas come out so good you will either need "cool head lift" checked or do what I did which was to simply print 2 robots "at the same time" (not one at a time!) to allow the plastic to cool before the next layer of antenna is printed.

I also printed the plastic very cool. I think 210C. I have notes somewhere plus I posted all the info somewhere else in this forum.

 

Not as perfect as yours, but it's gettimng better

 

Thanks again

 

[vinay 1]

 

I Bring YOU IroN Fist!! :grin: No I will not publish the design files! This is only a prop and just for fun... Display only! In fact I will NOT Publish any design related in harming anyone or the Ultimaker community.. I apologies to the community and Ultimaker..

 

layer Height 0.1mm

Temp 195c

Speed 30mm/sec

 

 

 

 

[sigi 0]

For those who want to also get an excavator:

Now available on https://www.youmagine.com/designs/excavator:

 

Have fun! :-P :-P :-P

 

[skint 61]

Another one converted to Roberts cable chain. It looks OK in blue when the lights are shining on it, although other users white ones look cool. Had a few issues when building it though :???:

 

[IRobertI 520]

Yes, yes, my cult grows bigger. Soon, I will take over the world!