The Raspberry Pi has a 1.1 amp poly fuse, the Pi 2 has a 2 amp. I had my Pi 2 crash with a 700 mA supply when I added a BT USB adapter while running; I now have a 2 amp supply.
PI from UM2 PCB
Oops, maybe take it from 24V and use a blockdown converter then.http://www.dx.com/p/dc-5-36v-to-dc-1-5-32v-converter-step-down-power-module-142531#.VUXXCXBHmrU
Edited by Guest
I have also been thinking about this, and since i do not have the power budget for the UM2 and cant be bothered with doing all the calculations i have been looking at using a LM2596 step-down module of the kind that costs about 1€ at eBay and connect it directly to the 24V rail from the power supply.
I've done this, I just hopped over to digi-key, picked out something that met the specs, plus a USB type-A port
Works like a charm
A DC/DC step-down from 24V should work fine, much better than using the 5V from the UM2 directly
Fine, I'll do that then.
Something like this maybe: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Power-Regulator-Voltage-Step/dp/B00E5VGWT8
- 1 month later...
I´m kinda ashamed asking this, but here it goes...
Could somebody please point me to where can I find the correlations of pins like swordriff just posted above?
I mean, PIN 8 from EXP2 is X on the board, and then Y on Marlin, etc...
As in here for the Ultimaker v1.5.7 PCB.
I need to reassign some pins and am having a hard time finding this info...
Edited by Guest
maybe this will help ?
I think there have been a few changes on the board (option to turn of heater fan) but I haven't seen it on github ...
(had to use tinyurl as the forum did not accept the long url correctly, think because of the brackets in it...)
Edited by Guestmaybe this will help ?
I think there have been a few changes on the board (option to turn of heater fan) but I haven't seen it on github ...
(had to use tinyurl as the forum did not accept the long url correctly, think because of the brackets in it...)
Yeah, it helps, ty. I thought it should be there somewhere. 
But what to the abbreviations mean? TP23, ADC0, PD7? How do I know where I can connect a thermistor, for example?
- 5 years later...
Don’t run power off your main board, my Y got screwed up and nobody is going to help. Remember, your motherboard only has a one-year warranty regardless of performance. If it sits in a box for one year your warranty is void.
Edited by proczak
Why do you post your support conversation here? I don't see any benefit for the topic of this thread.
Anyway I understand partly your frustration, but you are 3 years outside the warranty and you cannot expect lifetime spare parts for free. As @fbrc8-erin already said, you have lifetime support on your printer, something which is very uncommon these days and when I read the conversation you posted, you got a very well and professional support to identify the root cause of your problem - for free, fast and competent, so please be fair.
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It’s more as a warning to those in this thread. I did exactly what others are doing in this thread, and apparently that messes up the main board. I’m just posting that historically accurate conversation we had over it. More as a warning to others.
as for the warranty, it would be good to know what actually went wrong, however support is limited. Having a relatively new main board go bad sucks. In addition it was to show that support staff is actively monitoring Facebook groups. So, just be aware and be careful what you post.
So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is?
You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
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1 hour ago, proczak said:In addition it was to show that support staff is actively monitoring Facebook groups. So, just be aware and be careful what you post.
Sounds cynical. I have met Erin personally and she's incredibly nice. And smart. And on the forums she helps people all the time even though it's not her job to do so.
Anyway, getting to your issue - I'll go read again what you wrote instead of just skimming it...
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Yes, I agree with Erin's diagnosis. Simplest solution is to buy a new PCB. Least headaches. I'd get it from fbrc8.com as they have amazing service. There's a lot of great resellers in USA but nothing beats the service from fbrc8 in my opinion.
HOWEVER, if you want to save some money (and trade it for your time) you have a few other options.
You have an old UM2 which is fortunate because back in the day I think they were still hoping to have an upgrade to the UM2 that did dual feeders so there is probably an extra extruder servo driver for "E1" (versus E0). Or maybe it's E2 versus E1? So you can use that but that means you have to build a custom version of marlin. If you have experience with C compilers you can probably do it in 1-3 hours. If not it can be a lot of work. But there are people here on the forum who can help. Certainly send me a DM on the forum as I don't look at every notification (including this thread). Especially after a few days.
Anyway, the edit you would want to make would be in pins.h. Take a look at pins.h. It should be realtively obvious - just grab the 2 pins for E1 and put them where the Y driver pins are (there's a DIR (direction) and a step pin). Here's instructions for building UM2 firmware:
Let me know if you think you will go this route and if so I can dig up and edit a photograph of the UM2 PCB and circle the chip that may or not be installed on your particular board.
38 minutes ago, IRobertI said:So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is?
You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
I’m sorry for polluting your precious board with content it does not meet your social standards.I’m sorry for polluting your precious board with content it does not meet your social standards.
13 minutes ago, gr5 said:Yes, I agree with Erin's diagnosis. Simplest solution is to buy a new PCB. Least headaches. I'd get it from fbrc8.com as they have amazing service. There's a lot of great resellers in USA but nothing beats the service from fbrc8 in my opinion.
HOWEVER, if you want to save some money (and trade it for your time) you have a few other options.
You have an old UM2 which is fortunate because back in the day I think they were still hoping to have an upgrade to the UM2 that did dual feeders so there is probably an extra extruder servo driver for "E1" (versus E0). Or maybe it's E2 versus E1? So you can use that but that means you have to build a custom version of marlin. If you have experience with C compilers you can probably do it in 1-3 hours. If not it can be a lot of work. But there are people here on the forum who can help. Certainly send me a DM on the forum as I don't look at every notification (including this thread). Especially after a few days.
Anyway, the edit you would want to make would be in pins.h. Take a look at pins.h. It should be realtively obvious - just grab the 2 pins for E1 and put them where the Y driver pins are (there's a DIR (direction) and a step pin). Here's instructions for building UM2 firmware:
This is great feedback! I asked around about dual feeders for the Ulta maker too, because my board does support it, however everyone told me that it was a bad idea due to the amount of headache that the company went through. This was apparently why they developed the um3. I asked around on the forums and that was the general consensus. Great feedback!
2 hours ago, proczak said:In addition it was to show that support staff is actively monitoring Facebook groups. So, just be aware and be careful what you post.
Before we jump into conclusions, what is it that you meant by this statement?
9 minutes ago, proczak said:I’m sorry for polluting your precious board with content it does not meet your social standards.
We do expect everyone who interacts on our forums to abide by our code of conduct. This includes being considerate and respectful to each other. Starting off with pasting a direct conversation with someone else is not a great start. By the looks of it Erin provided you with excellent support, and the willingness of staff to also monitor other groups and help users should be celebrated, not warned for.
15 minutes ago, proczak said:I asked around about dual feeders for the Ulta maker too, because my board does support it, however everyone told me that it was a bad idea due to the amount of headache that the company went through. This was apparently why they developed the um3. I asked around on the forums and that was the general consensus.
That is correct. Being able to run dual extrusion reliably goes far beyond having an additional extruder for another feeder on your electronics board. I think what GR5 is trying to say is that you could use the remaining port to reroute or repair the broken one.
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You mentioned facebook so I went over there and found this photograph - I think you posted it...
So it looks like you are good with soldering and such and probably know how to recognize chips and such. If you flip the white board over you can see a largish square chip (driver) located "near" each of the stepper connectors. There are 5 stepper connectors (X,Y,Z,E0,E1). Check to see if there are corresponding 5 chips or if E1 has a blank area. Your printer is old enough that I suspect you have a driver for E1 which you can hookup to Y stepper if you modify the firmware.
By the way, mounting a raspi under your UM2 is pretty cool.
You can also get "um2" compatible PCBs from China that are almost free. They don't always come with stepper drivers - they usually socket the stepper drivers so you have to pick out the pololu that fits your needs. I don't recommend this route as it's very complicated and involved and you could easily spend many days figuring it all out (e.g. microstepping settings). But I think you can use the default UM firmware on the chinese boards.
lrodriguez 32
5 hours ago, proczak said:It’s more as a warning to those in this thread. I did exactly what others are doing in this thread, and apparently that messes up the main board. I’m just posting that historically accurate conversation we had over it. More as a warning to others.
as for the warranty, it would be good to know what actually went wrong, however support is limited. Having a relatively new main board go bad sucks. In addition it was to show that support staff is actively monitoring Facebook groups. So, just be aware and be careful what you post.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1646291262322434/permalink/2698708323747384/
What did you mean on Facebook when you said "Any suggestions before I try to call Support only to be told that I voided some sort of warranty by resoldering their board? :-)"
You then said "There’s clearly nothing I could’ve done to ruin the motherboard" but you never shared the photo of the soldering in the Pi and other boards, why?
We are here to help but you have to be honest about your intentions.
We've all screwed up electronics. We are a community that help people anywhere we see someone asking. Facebook, Twitter, this Forum. We will continue to do so for you and others.
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lrodriguez 32
3 hours ago, proczak said:This is great feedback! I asked around about dual feeders for the Ulta maker too, because my board does support it, however everyone told me that it was a bad idea due to the amount of headache that the company went through. This was apparently why they developed the um3. I asked around on the forums and that was the general consensus. Great feedback!
The Mark 2 is a great mod that will works! https://www.magnetic-tool-changer.com/
Gotcha, I like the rerouting idea! That is the kind of support I would expect from a Facebook group, not from Ultamaker direct. More of a user-based response. Thanks for all the feedback and help everyone!
Edited by proczak-
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swordriff 119
Yes you can.
EXP 1 Pin 10, also marked TP22.
EXP 2 Pin 10 also has +5V
How much mah are you planning to sink?
Here is +5V
Edited by GuestLink to post
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