SandervG

I'm involved! @Labern, did you mean this post? I think what we are looking at is called banding. It can be caused by acceleration or an inaccuracy in the Zsteps, orrrrr even in the feeder. Since this is a heated bed on the Ultimaker 2, which usually are pretty stable I think we can rule out a wobbly Z-stage. What about the bearings, like in this post? How smooth do they move up and down the rods?

They may reflect on the bottom surface of your print, it is up to you to decide if that is a problem or not. 2090 is good, the shade of blue on your picture however looks like it is the 3434. It works as well, but has less adhesion than 2090. (3434 it is a great tape if you want to do autoprints for example).

If you read the instructions you will find an image on how you should apply the tape. In lines, next to each other. Try to line them up precisely without any air or dirt underneath. In theory you only need to cover the area where you are going to print, but unless it got damaged or dirty you don't need to remove the tape. So taping the entire surface of the bed will allow you to print big and small, without the need of redoing the tape. When 1 strip got damaged, you only need to replace that one strip. Your supply is enough for quite some time!

Hi Vissenkom, What you are seeing is that your print got detached from the buildplate. Usually you want the print to stay attached to the buildplate, and you'll have the printhead build the model. In order to create a form, it needs to build one layer on top of the next. This only works if that previous layer stays at the same place In your case, it is moving along with the printhead. So nothing is being made, except a blob because the printhead does keep extruding. I see you have an Ultimaker Original without a heated bed and you have some remains of the blue tape (it looks to be light blue?) I would recommend to get out and buy some darker blue tape, put that on the buildplate and start another print. The tape should enhance the adhesion and you should be able to print reliably. You can find some instructions here. Good luck!

You are very welcome, hopefully you had a good time! What did you see at the show, and who did you talk to?

Sorry, better luck next time!! Did you end up going anyway?

Here ya go: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-bowden-clips (just removed the dot)

ah yeah I know that guy, good supplier!

And it is Z-resolution, X-Y are depending more or less on your nozzle width.

And please try to stick to english (or add a translation) Nice print though! awesome modeling skills

I am not convinced it is an ABS problem, maybe a problem in the model itself? Have you tried fixing it in netfabb or meshmixer? Some software tools can run repairs where they close meshes etc. And you have printed this without support? In that case that arm came out pretty impressive !!

What exactly is it that you want to be removed from? The unsubscribed?.. so.. you do want to receive the emailings? Sorry, maybe it is me, but I find it a bit confusing. Let me know and I'll see what I can do.

For your information, I have decided to remove ProCoPrint3D from the forum. Not for the sole reason of promoting a different brand, but because there was a problem in his attitude where he refused to comply to our house rules. Please feel free to read them.

Nope. We are not that picky, this is just a minor, relatively harmless workaround so that is fine. We can't afford to be, being open source and at the time scare everyone from opening up their machine. We do have guidelines obviously, but I like to think they are pretty reasonable. Depending on what you are planning to do it may be of influence of your warranty but this is fine Good luck with your fan!

Is the power supply even working? Is the LED on? Did it work before you left it idle?

Just became aware! What I would recommend if you have a multimeter to check if the electronics are fine. If that is the case, your fans are connected but do not turn on your fan is probably dead. We'll send you a new fan, that won't be a problem if it turns out it is faulty.

I think 700ºC is kinda overdoing it for PLA... What materials will it unlock? And if it is that small (small heatzone), will it be able to print with high speeds?

Indeed, I even read that all figurines are hand painted.

That is unfortunate, well.. there are shows all over the world. Hopefully we'll see you in another show! Thanks!

Hi Guys, We are exhibiting at the 3D Printshow in Pasadena, September 11th-12th. As a giveaway, we have a few tickets available for anyone who wants to go! So if you live in the area and you want to drop by let me know through the comments below and we'll sort you out! Tickets available (I will keep this overview updated! ) 1 for the entire weekend 10 for Friday 6 for Saturday. oh.. and we hand them out in pairs, so you can take your best friend with you as well! The only requirement is you come by our booth and say hi So.. who wants to go?!

They don't always work on shiny objects do they? And not everyone has one of these, so I was thinking of something down the lines you could easily measure with just a string of filament.. or a water boiler (water always boils at 100ºC for example).

I would totally buy that! mmmm.. coffee.

Thanks for your reply. I editted my reply a little bit because I missed part of your chart and my feedback wasn't completely relevant. Doesn't a heated driver usually lead to losing steps?

Hi Thank you for creating this chart! I will run it down our tech department too, to see what they think of it. Is it based on the Ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original? Because the Original usually doesn't 'click' (the feeder) but the Ultimaker 2 doesn't have an electronics fan. For the Ultimaker 2, I don't believe the reason of the clicking is the driver becoming to hot. The current on the motor is on the low end of the spectrum, so instead of grinding (when the friction increases) it starts skipping. Cause: somewhere down the line friction increased. Can be because the speed/temp is out of balance, or friction increased in the bowden, or the ptfe/teflon deformed, or your nozzle has dirt in it. What does 'D' mean? Maybe we could expand this with pictures, like.. what are clear markings on the knurled wheel etc? Another plausible cause when the filament is difficult to move through the bowden tube, is that it got flattened and became to wide. So another step should be; try another piece of new filament. Potentially you could also add a technique to test if your PT100 works accurately, to test if 100ºC is actually 100ºC. This can be done for example pushing a piece of filament against the heaterblock at 80ºC, it should start to deform due to the heat. Does anyone have a better way of testing the PT100 without fancy equipment?

Thanks for the write up! So.. what plans lie ahead of you? Are you going to continue with the flex3drive, or look for a totally different approach? What if you could reduce the hot zone above the heater blocks, would that reduce stringing? @Foehnsturm, since you are the OP on the multihead thread this may be interesting to you as well @UltiArjan, @macua85 and @neotko too! There are multiple roads to rome eh?