SandervG

What I understand that it is possible, but only for upgrades Ultimaker Originals. That is because they have different electronics and the PSU is not connected to the main electronics but the smaller heated bed board. If you turn the printer off while the heaters are still activated there is a chance power is still being guided to the bed, which can fry the component on the board for the heated bed. It is important to note this will not always happen, it is also not suppose to happen, but it can happen. Advised is to 'Cool down' your heated bed in your UltiController before you turn off your Ultimaker Original. It could also have another reason, but this would be the most obvious. (especially considering the other post). If you get in touch with iGo3D we'll sort you out with a new board

I used to print that hollow pyramid model with only half of quarter of the base to get a feel for the filament's sweet spot. But either now a days everything got tuned in better or I just became smarter / more experienced, because I haven't done it in a while.

Is this after clean up? It looks much better already. And like stated before, you do need to play around with it a little bit. It also depends a bit on a potential draft, ambient temperature, colour of filament. So really interpreted it as a rule of thumb, and not absolute knowledge.

Hi @lukem96, You don't happen to have a recording of the sound? I am guessing something held down your bed and your motor was skipping steps. It can sound intimidating, but is pretty harmless. Is there an obstruction? Can you manually move it up and down?

Hi @Kelechi, Thank you for your post, and welcome to the community! Sounds very exciting. Are you registered to 3D Hubs or are you setting up a service yourself? What kind of things are you producing? I don't know exactly where you are located in Africa, but Trobok is (also) from South Africa. A very talented designer who makes cool stuff.

Big ' D'oh! '. Noted. Now, lets not hijack the thread away from ebay.

Sorry, I mean the block after you have posted, like what everyone else sees. There should be a 'edit post' in the top right corner which allows you to edit your post. It will open an edit box a little bit lower. I did see your other post and forwarded it to the developers.

Are you talking about the far right upstanding piece? My first thought was that these pieces were not merged in CAD and therefor Cura identifies these as 2 parts. You could try to merge them, or use one of the 'fix horribles' in Cura (under expert mode). Hope that helps (or I am interpreting your question right )

Why can't you edit your post?Can you make a screenshot from your 'text-block'?

The PTFE/teflon part is glass filled. Our PEEK (UM2) isn't, just so we keep our facts straight.

Let me verify that theory with our pro-team.

I try to keep track of everything being shared here but it could be that I miss something.. Do you know what it is in the filaments that allows them to be affected by aceton, and why some don't?

And definition-wise I would consider good quality: good surface quality. So no stringing, no under/over extrusion, no weird blobs. A smooth 'flawless' surface. Regardless of it being 0.06 or 0.1 or 0.2. They look good if the surface is intact.

I guess great minds think alike

Could you take a close up? Just thinking out loud; could it be that the bed is levelled too low, and therefor the layers are 'laid down' gently, instead of squished down. (can you just wipe this layer of with your finger?) Is the open space equal over the entire first layer?

Usually as a rule of thumb I use these ratios for PLA (different brands may vary) 0.1 | 25mm/s | 195ºC 0.1 | 50mm/s | 210ºC 0.1 | 80mm/s | 235ºC If you see some of this stringing occur during the print, in the tune menu you can tweak the settings (increase or decrease temperature) until it disappears. Eventually you'll develop a pretty good feel for this right away

You don't see any visual markings on the board? Unfortunately, electronics are not my field of expertise so I am not comfortable about giving you advice. But in theory, can't you use the other heating terminal on the main board, to test if that makes a difference? You would need to tweak that in the firmware too.

Hi Coni, It is a bit hard to tell from the pictures, is it more like a different shade of colour, is it an underextruded layer or is it more like a dent / notch? If it is the latter, I am inclined to think it is in the model. If it is underextruded there was most likely a brief moment of friction on the reel or in the bowden tube tube but it recovered. Colour gradient can happen because the temperature changed or something in the ingredients of the filament was different at that spot. Have you printed this more than once? and did it occur at the exact same place?

I'll be keeping an eye on you Curious to see where you are taking this!

ahh, I saw it now, thanks. What version of Cura are you using?

Hi Imke, Thank you for your email. I don't see any odd behaviour in the video, do you have some examples to show your issue a little bit better? What do you mean by backsteps? You should keep your walls in a multitude of your nozzle, so make it: 0.4 or 0.8 or 1.2 instead of 0.5 Looking forward hearing from you!

Yes they don't come cheap. I hear the guys at UM love cookies. That may help persuade SandervG. That would be R & D mainly.. It is getting close to becoming a currency here

Which ever one will help us pinpoint to your communications

If you can DM me your reference / ticket ID or something I'll see if we can hook them up to our pro-team and move forward fixing your issue

If it is the bearings (if!) it doesn't matter what gcode you feed it, because it is in the mechanics. If your partner doesn't have the knowledge to further diagnose the issue, they can rely on our pro-team for help. Where did you buy your Ultimaker?