SandervG

It has been restored, here it is!

This doesn't look like top layers are not touching, but some underextruded layers halfway. Did the filament get tangled up or something? Even though the print is failed I find it amazing how it can still recover.. There are some areas for improvement, like stringing too, but it doesn't look like the top layers are not closing. Or am I not seeing it right?

Yes it works really well. I have a pretty big PLA print on my desk, and it had a few broken parts (courtesy of DHL). Superglue fixed it within a few seconds. I did sand the surface down before I glued it, but that was mainly because the surfaces weren't flat (some previously glued joints broke and there was residue). Where do you buy the filament and parts so far? Do they offer alternative shipping methods?

@gr5, do you know this?

@shurik, if you go to your settings you can set your notifications. You can choose immediate email notifications, or daily or weekly. That way you stay up to date if you get a reply and it won't have to be a month until you notice. The website also generates notifications at the bell on the top of your screen. Please post on the General forum feedback what you think could be improved.

It is a requested feature and is already noted

Cool! Well.. we would probably have to do some math, but printing at a higher resolution to avoid post processing is not perse faster than printing on a low resolution and doing some sanding. Anyway, your print looks great! Can't wait to see what it looks like finished.

Usually yes, but we print the Ulti-bots at around 30mm/s at (I think) 190ºC and the antenna's are great!

Is this uploaded in the print section? Beautiful print. Did you prime it? Are you also going to paint it?

Een Olsson Block heeft ook zeker voordelen, maar staat in mijn ogen los van de huidige situatie.@MarijnHeeren, hoe staat het met je filament en printkwaliteit?

Hi @kelechi, Any new updates about combining your prints? We have cheap superglue, and it works pretty good.

I thought the point was that in a full metal hot end there is more friction or resistance with PLA.

Good question It kinda depends on different factors. It is usually not a good idea to completely fill up every inch of the buildplate with small models. At the border/corners there is a chance they won't stick to the bed properly. But if you have only a few (bigger) models I would recommend to cut it up in 2 or 3 batches. If you print multiple models at the same time they have more time to cool down, which benefits your surface finish. On the other hand by dividing your project up in a few batches, if, god forbid, something might interferes with your print (like your filament gets tangled up), you don't loose that much, both time and material wise. I can imagine using 'print one at a time' when you don't want to wait for the entire project to be finished to take out your first sample. Or if you have a lot of smaller prints, print one at a time may be better. For example, if we need to fill up our stock of Ulti-bots in the office we print batches of 16 robots at the same time and we use print one at a time. Otherwise it would travel too much, wouldn't make sense. Also, you want to finetune your settings so you don't have any stringing. Stringing may leave oddities on your surface, which undermine the advantage 'printing all at once' offers. Cura will calculate for you where the models should be positioned so the fan shroud won't knock them over. You can still reposition them and it will correct itself if you try to put them to close together.

Hi @Kerberg, I moved your topic where I think it is more appropriate. Usually if you just let it cool down it comes off pretty easy. Alternatively, you could keep it under cold water. I never tried canned air. It is hardened glass so it won't crack that easily, but if you wait for just a few minutes you should be able to just take it off.

If you are going to measure I would start measuring exactly where the filament enters the feeder. Extrude a certain amount and mark it again. Measure if that distance is similar to what you made it extrude. I think if you would measure from the top it will be difficult to measure the exact filament, since the top will be melted and can stretch. Besides, I believe the bowden tube is only like 68cm long, so 100cm would be difficult.

Als het raam open staat en het tocht kan dat zeker je print kwaliteit beinvloeden. Voor PLA is dat niet noodzakelijk ivm gassen, wat men tot nu toe weet. Wanneer je ooit met ABS zou printen is dat wel aan te raden. Mijn bevindingen met tocht tijdens een print is dat ik een hogere temperatuur nodig heb, afhankelijk van de tocht soms wel tot 230/240ºC. Maar dat is alsnog met filament dat niet zomaar breekt..

Dag Marijn, Dat het meteen afbreekt is niet de bedoeling. Meestal heb ik een tang nodig om een stuk af te knippen, of moet je het een paar keer ronddraaien eer het breekt. Simpelweg breken lukt meestal niet. Ik kan aanraden om filament bij Ultimaker te bestellen, Colorfabb of innofil (qua nederlandse leveranciers dan). Ik weet natuurlijk niet wat de mogelijkheden zijn, maar je zou eens kunnen proberen op een andere plek te printen met nieuw filament, als het dan goed gaat de Ultimaker weer naar dezelfde plek verhuizen en kijken of het dan nog goed gaat. Zou denk ik antwoord moeten geven op beide stellingen. Succes!

Hi, do you have some more picture which display your under extrusion? On the prints you have displayed I can see some room for improvement, but I wouldn't necessary relate them to under extrusion. Looks like the small key chain has some retraction issues, and the top layer seems to be something wrong with it. How big is the entire thing? On the cup it actually looks pretty OK, except for the back. Was that an incident or do you have delamination every time?

Ik bestel meestal mijn Ninja flex bij 123inkt. En tot nu toe is me dat wel prima bevallen. Voor gewoon PLA of soortgelijken, gebruik ik enkel Ultimaker en Colorfabb filament. Zelden problemen. Oh, in het verleden heb ik ook wel Faberdashery gebruikt. Heel goed filament, alleen ik had wel eens problemen dat dit in de knoop raakte (het wordt niet op een spoel geleverd). Terwijl voor sommige los filament juist de heilige graal lijkt te zijn.

Thank you for your post. Usually when the first (or 2) layers are being deployed you should be able to move your finger (or when your heated bed is on) or screwdriver over the print and it should stay on the bed. Without moving. The only thing wrong here I think is that the layers are not pressed enough on the bed, so they don't stick. I would not recommend to use more adhesive, although you were in the right area. I would suggest to level your bed slightly higher. The first layer should be squashed/pressed on to that bed, not gently deployed. Don't use too much glue on your bed, at some point it won't improve adhesion anymore, and you even have the chance the glue will clock the nozzle (although that is not the case now, lets keep it like that!)

Do you have some pictures of your print? It would help us determine what can improve your print, which usually works better than trying to interpret a description. Overhangs can also be improved by cooling. Do you have the metal fanshroud or the foldable one? You say you reduced speed to 90, but from your specs up I read it was only 80mm/s? The thumb could be a rod hitting a rod end cap. Not really a big deal, there are hacks available to prevent this.

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I got a confirmation that your order is going to be shipped today! You should also receive an email from my colleague with some further details. Thank you!

If you get in touch with support we can check your details and determine if you are entitled to a new fan

Dag Martijn, Dat is vervelend om te horen, dit is niet de eerste ervaring waar we op uit zijn. Snelheid hoeft ook niet het probleem te zijn, heb je ook verschillende temperaturen geprobeerd? Als vuistregel hanteer ik meestal het volgende: 35mm/s - 200ºC 50mm/s - 215ºC 75mm/s - 235ºC Maar zoals ik eerder zei, dit kan iets variëren afhankelijk van je model en filament. Aan te raden is om met stapjes van 5ºC je temperatuur bij te stellen tot je de 'sweet spot' gevonden hebt. Is dat Ultimaker silver waarmee je print? Heb je meer dan 1 rol tot je beschikking, om die eens te testen?