SandervG

No problem, with so many threads you can not find them all right You could also try to turn it off. When the material retracts you should not have any oozing, regardless of the path it takes. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Yes, in that case it is likely that a wire broke during shipment. It would be recommended to contact your reseller yes. One final check to potentially save you some time/hassle, when pressing the end stops manually did you trigger the correct end stop matching the movement? For example, if the print head moves (lets call it vertically from top down view), did you press the corresponding end stop, which should prevent the head hitting that side of the frame? If it would travel in a straight line, and you would hit the other end stop, protecting the left side of the frame, it indeed would not influence the movement (if I am not mistaken). Just checking. If that indeed matches your test, you should contact your reseller. Good luck!

No problem happy to help! Active leveling is really great if you start prints through Cura Connect and are not sure about the calibration of your Ultimaker, or when you have a print with a thicker base plate. Active leveling corrects an offset during the first 10mm, and reduces the compensation to 0 during the next 10mm. Which means after that, you should have the desired dimensions again. If it had to correct an offset which caused your dimensional inaccuracy, you may want to manually level your bed if you haven't already. How? You can find some tips on the second half of this page. Good luck!

Did you check both end stops? There is one detecting proximity for each side of the frame. Did you try to park the print head in the opposing corner and manually trigger the end stop? Did it influence the movement? On one side, I would expect it to because if the printer would get zero signal, it could try to move 'through' the frame a few seconds longer. Which is also an answer to this question: If you move the print head in the opposing corner and manually trigger the end stop, if it does not influence the movement, your end stop is either broken or disconnected at the PCB. If it does influence the movement, it appears it is still triggered too late. The dust you see is not really related to what your experiencing with the end stops. It looks like 1 pulley could be repositioned slightly better so the belt fits in the middle of the pulley better. There should be a tiny set screw on the pulley, which allows you to relocate the pulley slightly.

Hi @darsan, thank you for your post and welcome to the Ultimaker community! It looks like your Ultimaker is not detecting (in time) that it has reached the frame. There should be end stops in the (on the video) top left corner which should send a signal. It works like this, the print head reaches the corner and the axles that protrude the print head trigger a lever under the frame (of the end stop), and that is how it knows its position and sends a signal to stop moving in that direction. The sound you hear is not really damaging your Ultimaker, it is 'just' the stepper motor skipping some steps, so you shouldn't necessarily be worried about that. Although of course you want to have it fixed, I understand. The problem is most likely that either the end stop has moved slightly and the lever is pressed just a fraction too late (can happen during shipment), or it got disconnected at the electronics. Could also happen during shipment, but less likely. We can test this in various ways, you can move the print head manually to that side of the frame and listen carefully if (and when) you hear a small click. You should hear it before it hits the frame. If it is difficult to hear, you can park the print head in the opposite corner and have it move to its home position. Before it has reached the frame you have some time to manually press the end stop, either with your finger or a pen or whatever. The printhead should immediately respond upon you pressing the lever. If it does, it is probably misaligned and you should be able to unscrew it, reposition it and screw it back. You could try it again and see if it works. Alternatively, you could try and bend the lever oh so slightly, so it is being pressed sooner (and thus, your print head won't hit your frame anymore). I would not do this at first, because if you use too much force you could break it and then you need to wait for a new end stop to arrive. Good luck!

Would you be willing to turn of Active leveling for a print, and see if that makes a difference?

Hi @Gerrardh, welcome to the community! As an alternative, have you seen this thread already? If you want to include the logo in the first layer, perhaps you can split your model up in 2 models, print lets say the logo first in white, and then print another second first layer with the background material and finish like that. As for the feature you are looking for, have you looked into 'combing'?

Hi @Yowan, welcome to our community! Could you elaborate a bit more about your goal? Are you trying to establish a standard to print a lot of one particular model, or a certain type of material? It is likely that the best parameters may very depending on the size of your model and what material you use. If you use your Ultimaker professionally, it makes sense to establish a benchmark but just wondering what your scope is. Could you in your photo include in which orientation it is printed? I can guess based on a hint of layers I see, but it is better to be sure. Do you have active leveling enabled? This feature compensates for any offset during the first 10mm of your print. Have you tried rotating your print by 90º so it stands rather than it lays flat? I think 4.94mm is not a very bad outcome, there will always be some shrink/expansion because of the material being thermoplastics.

Thanks for all the responses guys, really helpful! If someone else has any other material, or perhaps similar material with (slightly) different measurements we would love to hear from you!

Hi @gordon-obrien, we're happy to help! Halfway down the page you can find the heater error tips, I was wondering if it was those that you followed. For example, if your nozzle is touching the fan bracket and heat is flowing away through it. Little tip; if you want to mention a person you have to click the name in the dropdown menu. That is how you make the connection to the database, and that is the difference between a mention and writing something with '@...'. Looking forward re your updates!

Was it these tips that you followed?

They don't look very damaged to me (Does not mean they are not damaged but would have been easier to detect). On photo 2, did you already start taking it apart or is that how far the cartridge heater and PT100 are inserted? If so, they should be inserted much further. Do they read room temperature correctly, when you just turn on your Ultimaker but don't heat it up? What does your PT100 read when you heat it up with a blowdryer for example?

Thank you for your help @eyeballs ! I suppose it is clear what we're asking with 'H'? When you have finished your reel of filament, feel free to edit your answer and fill in the weight of an empty spool. Thanks.

Hi @gordon-obrien, thank you for your post and welcome to our community! First off, I took the liberty to change your username by removing your email handle for privacy reasons. Hope you don't mind. Could you share a photo of the backside of your print head? Is there any visible damage? It is possible that during cleaning a wire got damaged which is causing this error message. The PT100 which reads the temperature is not as strong as a cable as the heater cartridge.

Hi @Desperate3D , thank you for your response. I'll send you a DM to discuss some more details, in general you should be able to receive the help you need. Let's hope the fan indeed will solve this for you.

Thank you @darkdvd , amazing!

Hi there, In order to gain a better understanding of how our users use their Ultimaker 3D printers, we would like to ask you a few questions. In particular about what materials and reels you use. It would be greatly appreciated if you had a few minutes to spare and could answer these questions. We will use this information to improve future products. For some extra motivation and to make it worth your while, one (randomly selected) respondent will get a free reel of Ultimaker filament of your choice at the end of April! So the questions below are about the type of filament and reels you use. If you use different filament brands with different dimensions, feel free to answer it more than once. A: What is the filament brand: B: What is the type of filament: C: What is the diameter of the filament: D: What is the weight of a full spool: E: What is the inner diameter of the core? F: What is the outer diameter of the core? G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? H: What is the weight of an empty spool? I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) This image might give you some more information about what we mean with some of the questions: Thank you very much for helping us get a better understanding of your workflow. If you have any questions, feel free to ask below! Have a good day.

@Tadam, if you could share the logs the developers will be able to take a look and offer you help

Hi @Desperate3D , thank you for sharing your photo's. The accident with Nylon looks bad, but I don't think it is related to your experience with retracting material. Usually, such a blob forms when your 3D print got loose from the build plate and is being dragged along with your printhead. All of the sudden, your material can't go anywhere and a blob is formed. We took precautions in the design so the plastic should not be able to find its way up in the printhead if it would happen, but unfortunately these risks could not have been eliminated completely. Did you get help from your reseller while putting your printhead back in working condition again? Re the thicker filament, my first suggestion would be to check if your front fan is still working. Just a thin string of filament could prevent your blades from spinning and cool air actively cooling. The result is that heat can travel up and make your filament soft. With the pressure it receives from the feeder, it can get thicker and be difficult to pull back through the bowden tube. Just to make sure, when you put your feeder back together, make sure this screw is in the housing, and not sticking out as it is in this photo.

Hi @Alex L, that would definitely be much appreciated if you could share some of your experiences. That will certainly attract more architects with tips of their own and eventually we'll all learn from each other and grow in our professions. Could you name a thing or two what you would like to learn re ArchiCAD? How is the integration with Cura?

You don't particularly need a print core to use this cleaning filament. This cleaning filament is delivered as a 'stick' rather than a reel of filament. By parking your print head in the corner of your Ultimaker and perform these instructions you should be able to clean your nozzle.

Yes, feel free to use it in your Ultimaker 2+! Edit: This does not go for every filament by the way. Sometimes there is a good reason why a material does work on one machine, and less (or not) on another. So good thing for asking

Hi Desperate3D, thank you for the extra information. That indeed looks like some serious grinding. When you are not trying to change filament but with printing in general, how does it work for you then? Do you ever have any grinding then? Have you ever had to change anything to the tension of the feeder? Probably not related, but I'm curious anyway; that your old print core got destroyed trying to print Nylon, do you think it is related to this (since you bring it up?) What happened to it?

Hi @Desperate3D, thank you for your post and welcome to the community. I assume you mean you have an Ultimaker 3, or Ultimaker 3 Extended? We don't have an Ultimaker 3+ series. Regarding your question, when your print finishes normally it automatically should retract your filament a tiny bit, so it should retract easily when you change filaments. Therefore it should not have to heat up when you change material. How do you mean the material won't be rejected? Can you describe what happens when you want to change filaments? Thanks,

Hi @danilo, thank you for your 2 cents! I don't think the model above is meant as a benchmark model to show the general benefits of 3D printing in architecture, but just an example that illustrates how to control massing in Revit > Cura. I'm not saying 3D printing is the holy grail and the answer to everything, but it definitely can hold a lot of benefits for a firm willing to adopt it. Do you have any examples of highly anticipated technology that you saw pass by, that didn't make? Could be interesting! Looking forward hearing from you,