SandervG

Another interesting photo! The person on the right is doing quality control on an Ultimaker housing which was just built. He inspects every assembled frame that passes. On the left/middle, you see 2 workers at an assembly station for the housing of Ultimaker 3D printers.

Hi @ultiarjan , yes. See my previous response.

And I could add to this response with the photo I posted earlier: On here you see 7 Ultimaker S5's on a conveyer belt. Someone from assembly will take one Ultimaker S5, and in the stacked trays next to it are various (assembled) components that are used to build a complete Ultimaker S5. Some of them (like rods) are just the parts, other components (like feeders) are pre-assembled by another colleague. We train our assembly workers so, that they can assemble all machines. On top of that, every station has all work instructions too.

Hi @SteveH, are there standardized rules of measurement that help you determine whether or not a certain packaging passed the test, or is it mostly just our own subjective observation after unpacking?

Together with the Ultimaker S5 we are launching a new material called Tough PLA! It’s as tough as ABS, but as easy to print as PLA. ABS has always been a popular filament to print with, regardless of its challenges to print reliably like delamination and warping. And these challenges are emphasized on a build plate as big as the Ultimaker S5. Let’s start with the basics. Why is it called Tough PLA? Its called Tough PLA because its base material is PLA and acrylic polymer are added to it which gives it better impact resistance. We hope that from today on we’re able to provide an attractive alternative for some of your projects with this filament. Ok, so tell me more about this ‘Tough PLA’! Tough PLA has a much higher impact strength compared to PLA. With its properties, delamination and warping don’t have to be a problem anymore. It also works great with PVA (like PLA and unlike ABS), and therefore you also have more design freedom. Sounds good right? Hopefully it will help you make an informed choice next time you choose your material, and you might give Tough PLA a chance when heat resistance of 60 ºC is sufficient! We conducted tests to quantify the properties of Tough PLA. Tough PLA, ABS and PLA have all been tested with standardized tests. Some of those tests are known as ISO 527, ISO 178 and ISO 1183. These tests show that Tough PLA is less brittle than regular PLA, has similar impact strength to ABS but has a higher stiffness compared to ABS. It looks more matt than PLA, which I personally also like. Some more information about these tests. ISO 527 is a tensile test, which quantifies the deformation of the test sample at a certain force, also known as a stress-strain curve. ISO 178 is a 3 point flexural test. ISO 180 is an impact test which gives us an idea about the energy absorbed by the (notched) test sample during impact. The outcome of these tests gives us: Tensile and flexural modulus; the resistance required to deform a material, i.e. stiffness. Tensile stress at yield; the force required to reach the limit of a materials flexibility Tensile stress at break; the force required to reach the breaking point of a material Elongation at yield; the ability of a plastic to resist changes of shape before it deforms irreversibly. Elongation at break; the ability of a plastic to resist changes of shape without crack formation. Flexural strength; a stress at failure in bending. The objects subjected to these tests were 3D printed by us on Ultimaker 2+/Ultimaker 3. Which one exactly? That is listed with each material. It may also be good to note that we purposely created profiles which resemble your material profiles, and we did not craft special profiles aimed for the best lab-results. We wanted to give a realistic reflection of what these materials can do. The settings we used for Tough PLA were on an Ultimaker 3: 90% infill, 0.1 mm layer height, 0.4 print core and 205 ºC 60 ºC build plate temperature. For PLA we used an Ultimaker 2+, 90% infill, 0,1 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle, 210 ºC and 60 ºC build plate temperature. For ABS we used an Ultimaker 2+, 90% infill, 0.1 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle, 250 ºC and 80 ºC build plate temperature. We tested some materials on an Ultimaker 2+ when we did not have an Ultimaker 3 yet for example. When necessary or relevant, we’ll update the tests and documents. We also measured the shore hardness of Tough PLA. We do this with a durometer in type D scale. This test sample was a 7mm thick square printed with 100% infill, 0.1 mm layer height, 0.4 print core and 205 ºC 60 ºC build plate temperature. PLA scored 83, ABS 76 and Tough PLA 79. Hopefully, this information helps you understand why Tough PLA is a great choice! If you would like to know anything else, feel free to ask below! And if you have tried it yourself, I would love to hear how it worked for you! Technical Data Sheet PLA Technical Data Sheet ABS Technical Data Sheet Tough PLA

Wow, congratulations!! You should be happy with such a wonderful wife. We're happy to have you back on board ? And the Ultimaker 2 Extended+ gives a wonderful glow I am told ?

by the way.. also any questions specifically for our friend from the US, @fbrc8-erin ? In general I think she could also answer most questions but based on how they operate in the US.

oh.. then I'll remove it again because I hope to get some conversations started! ?

I asked Steve to send me a few photos of where he works. Here is one. I think it could be very interesting to get a peek inside the assembly facility. What do you think?

Hi Kenneth, I moved your question to another thread because I don't think it really related to the 'Ask me anything', about quality control and assembly. Could you explain a little bit more what you mean? resize a model in Cura? From what size to what size? Thanks,

Have you tried contacting Inted if they have the main board? Perhaps they have it available, but just not listed on their webshop.

Hi @DanielHolmSweden, what printer are you using? The Ultimaker S5 has a filament flow sensor which detects just that. But as a user you can also reduce the chance of this happening with how you unpack your filament and how you store it. Make sure you hold on to the end of the string and don't let it uncoil.

Hi @DanielHolmSweden, welcome to our community! So if I understand it correctly, you try to pause your print for a longer period of time (let's say during the night), and you want to continue the next day when you leave for work again? It kinda depends on what filament you use. If you use PLA you have a higher chance of success, since that doesn't deform/shrink as much as for example ABS when it cools down. When the material shrinks while your print is paused, and it restarts, the last layer you printed will have moved and you will see seem on your final print. In a bad scenario, it will have changed so much your new layer won't adhere to it properly and your print will fail. I would advise against turning off your heated bed. If you lose heat, you lose adhesion and your print will get detached from the buildplate. When there is a powercut, your Ultimaker will probably reset and indeed have to start over.

a gz file is I think a g-code, which is in fact a list of coordinates telling the Ultimaker which motors to move when (i.e. your digital print). I thought you wanted to send a log?

You can add it to your reply I think?

Of course! See below. Follow the link and write your questions there. If they don't get an answer automatically, I'll ask them on your behalf ?

Just a reminder; in just 2 days, Wednesday May 16th Steve Harris and @fbrc8-erin will be ready for your questions during their AMA about quality assurance and assembly! Feel free to already post some questions here:

Hi @FalmouthLouis , thanks for the update! Very interesting to see. When there is such a large structure BreakAway material supporting a part like the head, do you try to just break a part of it using pliers or what do you experience works best to remove it? I can imagine a tool to cut it in half could also work, perhaps in a slightly more controlling fashion than breaking it off. But perhaps I'm completely wrong ? In any case, the result looks really impressive! What did you print the bird for?

@ahoeben , do you by chance know what could interfere with the view settings?

Make sure to let us know how it came out ?

Hi Siggi, Could you explain what you need help with? What are you trying to do and what is not working? The better you describe your question / situation the better people can help. Thanks,

You may want to give it a try. Dust could collect in the seems and negatively influence your surface quality in Z. You can clean it with a cloth and reapply the grease. Your bowden tube can get damaged/scratched on the inside from sharp edges of filament that is fed in. Or a small brim could form. This could create friction and when big enough, small under extrusion. I believe you should be able to fairly easy remove the front cover and remove (air pressure?) any dust in it. You may also want to see if there is no debris in between the teeth of your knurled wheel. Read my advice to Shurik ? This could very well be due to a dirty Z rod. Try cleaning it and see if that helps. Make sure to apply the green grease again when you have cleaned it in between the threads.

First thing that comes to mind is re-align your pulleys so they are better aligned with the belt and not slightly off?

Yes, the power supply unit. The black thing between your wall and the Ultimaker ?

Thanks! I would be curious to see how it works for you ? Was it this particular egg-shaped print that was more difficult to remove, or do you have any idea if it is sphere-shapes in general which are more difficult to clean? If you can remove it by hands that sounds very easy, and much faster than PVA too.