peggyb

du kannst auch dein Model drehen, die Infill oder Support bleibt in die gleiche Richtung.

when using the putty knife: try to pry one corner of the knife under the object and lift the handle up. Don't try to get the putty knife under the whole object but use the putty knife as a lever to pop it up. So pry a little and lift. repeat, until the things pops up. This way the tape lasts longer too. I know…. some pieces are just sitting sooo tight, you will have to go the other way, like above….

when the nozzle is hot, can you push the filament through by hand by turning the feeder wheel? Does the filament come out as a regular strand? Check also in the feeder mechanism, when it is opened, if the little black wheel can turn freely. Check if there is any filament dust on the knurled bolt in the feeder mechanism….. what else to check?...

you have an Ultimaker Original, so then it is easy to start a print like this: preheat pla when it reaches 200 degrees you can start to turn the feeder wheel on the back by hand and let the pla flow. then start your print, grab the string that leaves the nozzle. this way you always start with a full printhead.

its called combing maybe because if you print a comb and combing is on, the head stays within the teeth. With combing off, the head would cross over the teeth, choosing the shortest way…..

did you also replace the teflon spacer? or looked at it closely?

maybe you can adjust the position of the top z-limit switch at the back of the printer. Take a look at the build manual. Turn down the 4 screws on the build plate until they are in the middle of the spring and then manually raise the platform with the grey z-coupler on the bottom-inside of the printer until the nozzle just touches the build plate. Then loosen the z-limit switch on the back and slide that into a position that you can hear the click when it touches the wooden pin. After that you can fine tune with the 4 springs on the bed.

it also has to do with the complexity and the size of your model. If your model has mostly straight walls you could for for a higher layer height, say 0.15-0.2. If your model is very detailed, or organic with lots of curved walls, like a scan, smaller layer heights are better, like 0.06. I believe that going lower than 0.06 doesn't show much difference, but I could be wrong… it ads a lot of time indeed.

this could be an idea... but it would be nice to have the possibility to add only pla.

it took a while to do the calculating in Cura, but it finished, so maybe its a computer thing? But it looks crappy with all the jagged edges, cannot imagine it would make a nice print like this...

did you open the casing? there is a little thingy that can be turned around to adjust the brightness?

After updating the firmware for the HBK the prepare menu changed to preheat pla1 and preheat pal + heated bed, but both do the same... What if I just want to preheat pla and not the HB (mostly for old files on the sd card which do not need a HB)? If I change the config in the menu the settings change for both the preheat lines.

yes, thats an important one: only gcode files! the printer cannot see other files like .stl or .obj

use Netfabb and do a default repair. After that it looks good in Cura. The walls are still edgy. In a cad program you could draw the whole thing yourself and extrude it.

Gebruik bij lastige prints altijd een brim. Als de brim klaar is en het model geprint wordt plak ik meestal een stukje tape over de brim zodat deze niet op kan krullen. Zeker aan de kant van de fan. De brim doet z'n werk zolang er geen lucht onder komt, daarbij kan een stukje tape net even helpen..

did you use 'strange' characters in the title? be sure to use just plain letters, so no: ^"`éè..

it is 99% a set screw like gr5 and Zungura are saying. Take a sharpie pen and make a little mark over the pulley and the rod that its attached to. Move the printhead by hand in the x direction and look closely which pulleys are moving, also the one on the motor!

the green stuff is only used for the one vertical threaded rod in the back. All the other smooth rods are lubricated with light machine oil.

you mean that you want to rotate the scene to look at the other side of your model? There are 2 ways of navigating: 123d Design or MeshMixer (in preferences) For MeshMixer navigation: to rotate, press middle mouse button and move the cursor. Under Help there is a shortcut list of all the keyboard shortcuts.

what do you use inside the tumbler? At work I have a (goldsmith) tumbler with metal parts like balls,pins, satellites in all sizes. That mixed with water and a little soap. I put in a bronze fill print, there was a little difference, but not much. The water was brown afterwards. In the picture: right side is sanded and hand polished, left side is tumbled without sanding.

Ik kom ook graag met mijn UMO. Leuk om weer wat te doen, en zeker om elkaar ook weer te ontmoeten!

The Zinter Pro looks like 'another FDM machine with a shiny prospect' In a way it is the same as the UM2, but with two extruders. Have anyone seen a working dual extruder out of the box yet…?

do you have something in the first layer where there is no brim? Like Valcrow said, there might be something tiny on that side that cannot produce layer information. Then it would be a good idea to use the cut off, just a very small amount until you see what you need...

good to known, I will try.

I have the heated bed kit installed on my Ultimaker Original and it works great. The start up movement was a surprise…. sooo fast… But used to that now. But I have a SD card with a lot of files that I use often for presentations and so. Do I have to rewrite the gcode for everything in Cura again because of the new firmware? Of course the bed will not work, but what if you start or make gcode with the 'original machine' and sent it to a heated bed upgrade (UMO-hbk)? And at my work I still have the UMO without the hbk. What if I forget that Cura was set to the 'new hbk machine' and send that generated gcode to the UMO?