peggyb

just load in a jpg.

pvc glue works well and is water resistant. You can also make vases and cups watertight with it.

would be nice if everybody could wear a self printed name tag, and nice to see the faces with the names...

here was an article with a company name in the US: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140902-fuel3d-and-ultimaker-team-up-in-the-uk.html

here is a picture of the old teflon part, normal use-a few times a month, about one year old. and a before and after changing the teflon

yeah, only the far right is printed with the Ultimaker Original. But it is a nice result compared to machines that costs heavy $$€€$$. Titanium is done by LayerWise in Leuven . Recently acquired by 3DSystems...

to avoid pillowing: go slower. The molten plastic 'breaks' on the first layer on top of the infill. Of coarse denser infill helps too.

I guess this has to do with the teflon part. Yes, this also happens to the UMO… at the connection with the peek a little bit of material disappears. When you take the hot end apart the teflon has a brown brim. Or there could be a little gap between the hot end parts bowden-teflon-peek-brass, not necessarily ending up with leeks. Evidence can be seen when you pull the pla and see a thicker part at the end.

Comparison of different materials: titanium - nylon sls - pla The Ultimaker is doing a great job….

and this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIdgTKqbjNA&feature=youtu.be&annotation_id=annotation_373973913&feature=iv&src_vid=i6POrjVXgsk

came across this video once, nice idea for the nozzle….

My very favorite! a soldering iron (regulated) with a customized tooltip. Created from a piece of thick copper electrical wire with a flattened tip, like a mini spatula. Great for finishing prints, finishing retraction leftovers, correcting little irregularities, welding pieces together, filling gaps (not pretty, but useful sometimes) and... best part for me: first layer big print with lots of support lines; the start or end of the line can be melted to the tape (cold bed) when they tend to curl up. I print a lot with a 0.8 nozzle and stuff like XT or Woodfill and there the first layer is trickier to put down.

One thing I noticed with the thin hair stuff is: draft. Last week I was printing at an event where they had a fanatic cooling system causing a cold draft. Could it be that too much cooling has something to do with this?

I tried your file and copied to 12 on a UMO, Cura 14.06-RC6. It works…. At first in the layer view they loaded everything like 'print all at once' although 'print one at a time' was selected; strange. Then I did a 'reload all objects' and everything looks good.

ik kan me heel goed voorstellen dat voorwerpen waar kracht of gewicht i hangen last krijgen. Maar dit hangt alleen maar zonder dat er iets aan komt, toch? Hij zal toch niet als een ijsco wegsmelten Goede test vorm trouwens...

can be done easier.. do a plane cut, but choose slice instead of cut from the drop down menu. It looks like nothing happened, there is still one item in the Object Browser, but if you select 'separate shells' then you have two parts. This also can be detected: use select tab and hit a part of the object so that a piece of surface turns orange. Hit the 'E' key and the rest of the part is selected. (Move an object: hit the 'T' key)

i'm happy... It was not that difficult to learn. The scanner is at http://ifabrica.nl, where I give courses in 3d scanning and printing. So if you want to use one, its possible here...

you can also draw your own support in your cad program. In this case I would draw a cylinder inside the object with a wall thickness between0.45 mm and 0.8 mm, depends on the size of your object. The height of the cylinder should not touch the rim, the gap can be one layer height, so the printer leaves out one layer and then starts building on top of the cylinder. It should be easy to remove afterwards.

I think the default settings for the layer height is 0.1. For a block shape with strait walls you can change that to 0.2 or 0.25 and that will change your print time enormous.

I have access to a David scanner. It is a pity that the comparison did not include the David, because they would be similar to each other I guess. All the other scanner are in a different class, in price and quality. It looks like the Next uses a laser line, and the David uses a beamer pattern to gain the objects surface. The size is the scanned object for the David goes up to something like 75 cm per scan, could be a bit more. This is limited by the power of the beamer pattern for a bigger distance. The rotating platform of the Next looks good. Quality looks the same, I scanned a key and printed it. After a little adjusting, it worked!

Du hast wahrscheinlich ein Plug-in activiert in Cura

een andere kleur met Woodfill heb ik niet gezien, maar met Laywood wel. Dat is iets donkerder van zich, de 'cherry' kleur. Persoonlijk vind ik de Woodfill fijner printen, (met een 0.8 nozzle)

what are the things to take care of? speed, temperature? keep the material moving, so the temp. cannot crawl upwards? is a bigger nozzle a benefit?

check the layer view. If walls are getting too thin, they cannot be printed, or you might loose some tiny details. start a print and see what happens. This size it won't take very long. You would need some support also for the overhangs, I guess.

you have to keep this wood fill moving... A bigger layer height: recommended is 0.25. Because of the roughness of the material the separate layers kind of disappear. A bigger nozzle opening is better: 0,6 or 0,8. For an Ultimaker Original this is easy to drill out and change.