peggyb

yes! stand number 110.

de zwarte onderdelen zijn identiek voor de Ultimaker Original en de Ultimaker+, behalve deze onderdelen die in de Ultimaker+ niet meer nodig zijn. De 4 blokjes zijn voor de bevestiging van het acrylaat bed (geen verwarmd bed) en het F deel is voor de verwarmingsprint printplaatje op de printkop. Deze is bij de + niet nodig vanwege de vernieuwde electronica. Veel succes met printen!

I always check this article for settings and edit suggestions: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/

123d design can read svg files check if auto cad can create those

waarom zou je dit willen? Het beste is om de lijm verdund met water aan te brengen over het hele oppervlak en op te laten drogen. Deze dunne laag blijft heel lang goed voor meerdere prints.

take out the knurled bolt with the gear by removing the black delrin clip. Hold the gear in your hand and turn the bolt tight! Put it back in place and attach the delrin clip again.

nothing there, no Cura folder. in the hidden folder: ~/.Cura are all the versions up to 14.06-RC6 although I have almost every release after that. How to reorganize this? Should I delete folders? Move them? Plug ins Folder is in the hidden folder as well. 'Load profile from gcode' always returns with the error: 'No profile found, only works with versions by Cura 12.07 or newer'.

ik heb wel goede resultaten gezien als je bijvoorbeeld op een stukje (berken)triplex print. De oppervlakte is war ruw en 'harig' zodat het het lekker hecht. Wel even opletten op de nieuwe z-hoogte. Brim gebruiken werkt natuurlijk ook goed en eventueel de brim nog even na tapen met ducktape of de blauwe tape. Did see some good result with the use of (birch)plywood. Surface is a little hairy. Brim is good as well and you can tape over the brim using duck tape or the blue tape.

kun je je settings even doorgeven, dat er daar niet iets fout gaat,bijv. 0,2 laagdikte ipv 0.2 (geen komma's gebruiken) Heb je eventueel ook de quick profiles gebruikt? of andere settings geprobeerd?

'vlokken': (from the site of i.materialise, they offer this finish on their sls nylon models): The process of adding a velvet finish to your models is called flocking, a fairly straight forward process. First, a suitable adhesive is applied to the surface to be flocked. The flock is then applied, penetrating the surface of the adhesive to create the desired velvet finish. Electrostatic flock applicators charge the flock particles which are then attracted to the grounded surface that is to be flocked. Electrostatic application ensures that the fibers all end up standing at right angles to the surface resulting in a velvet finish.

probeer als je een print start, eerst voor te verwarmen: prepare--> preheat pla. Als 210 bereikt is even aan het feeder wiel achterop draaien en check of het filament lekker doorloopt. print starten en eventueel het bed wat verstellen door aan de grijze bus te draaien onderaan de z-as. Iets anders om te controleren: je gebruikt , neem ik aan, Cura voor Original. Te herkennen aan de tekst 'Ultimaker" op het Cura, normal view, scherm. (en niet toevallig 'Ultimaker2'….)

yeah, when I got my Utimaker 3 years ago, there were 2 of them detached. Glued them with superglue back on and never had a problem. After a while I noticed that one loose again and glued it back again...

your first layer height is set in the advanced tab -> initial layer thickness. You're welcome to use 0.025 layer height, I think the printer is technical able to do that, but in my experience anything lower than 0.06 is hardly visible (but it will take about 3 times longer..) and correct me if I am wrong :-P

I use the UV at work (jewelry class), the thing looks similar as the nail stuff where you can put your hand in, like this: https://webshop.bijoumoderne.nl/websolutions/default.aspx?wsmt=wsitemdetail&itemcode=08108022&unitcode=01&cpl=1. The resin can be mixed with a little color. But the trick is to build it up in small layers…. because the uv light has to travel through the whole part ,I guess. And it takes a long time to set also, even with small layers (like 3-5 mm per layer) Be careful not to add too much color because that makes the curing even worse...

yes, there will be some oozing when you use the cool head lift, but it is easy to remove afterwards. It works, doesn't look great during printing, but it helps..

of de x en y assen wat olie geven. Als de stroom er af is moet je de printkop rustig met de hand kunnen bewegen.

thanx

no mac version?

viewpoints are confusing.. :???: your add-on helps very much!

(clockwise will lower the bed). ????? I remember your nice add on: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-bed-leveling-guide#!design-information where clockwise will raise the bed….

you also could try to rotate the part on the bed to get a better air flow from the fans. Maybe a rotation of 90 degrees would be better to have a benefit of both fans, or a 180 degrees to get the bad side closer to the left fan (because it is closer)

this one? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7488-trick-cura-to-change-print-path/

the short belts are the vertical ones from the motors to the pulleys, not the horizontal ones...

I guess it waits for the heated bed. I saw this as well: first the bed is warming up and the nozzle temp is set to 0, when a bed temp is reached the nozzle temp changes to the set temp.

can you check if the top and bottom layers are there in the layer view in 15.01-RC5? The yellow bottom and top solids are missing..