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Your reseller can look that up. In other words if you bought this used then find a big reseller in your area (maybe igo3d?) and email them with the serial number. It may still be under warranty.

Try checking the box "print thin walls".

I don't know but I have a different technique - I don't use profiles. Instead I always save the gcode file and always save the project file (in the same folder). The project file has everything profiles have but much more. Later when I want to slice something new I find a project file for something similar (e.g. same material), load that project, delete the object(s) to print, load in the new STL and hit slice. Done. Never had a problem with newer versions of Cura. never. Been doing this since cura version 2.X. I stopped using profiles back in Cura 2.X. Never looked back.

If you are going to turn around and sell it then definitely the UM3. If you are cheap like me then get the UM2 plain. I really am not a fan of the extended - it's just taller - I prefer wider which is not an option. So UM2. The UM3 can print dual colors but I rarely use that option (not in the past 2 years and I have 5 printers I use every week). More importantly the UM3 can more easily print higher temp materials like Nylon (which UM2 can do but UM3 better at it) and it can print PVA which is a water soluble support - just put the print in water bucket overnight and the support structures dissolve away. But the UM2 will print nicer quality due to the lighter weight head. And PVA is expensive. And the UM3 is a bit more likely to have a failure that's costly to repair. But really both the UM2 and UM3 are work horses and even when very old are still valuable. If you are not as cheap as I am then get the UM3 as it has more capabilities and those capabilities are occasionally very very useful.

No extrusion is bad also. Try 3mm of extrusion. If you look at the bowden - usually it's transparent enough that you can see the filament inside as the printer is printing. Look all printers are different - sometimes the extruder is at the top of the printer - a meter above most of the printer - maybe it would be good if you tell us exactly which brand you have. Anyway the bowden arcs? If you look inside the bowden while it prints it's hard to see what is going on until suddenly when there is a retraction you can see the filament move. Usually there is a lot of pressure from the feeder - the feeder is pushing very hard - often hard enough that if you tried to push just as hard you would easily lift the printer off the table. Something like 20 pounds or 10kg of force. So think of the inside of the bowden as a tunnel with a diameter significantly larger than the filament. When under pressure, at the top of the bowden arc, you can see the filament is at the roof of that tunnel. when the feeder retracts the filament should gently rest on the floor of that tunnel (again - at the top of the arc). It should retract the absolute minimum such that it is no longer pushing at the top of the tunnel. If it retracts so much that it actually pulls out of the nozzle then that's too much retraction because now air has to go in somewhere - possibly through the nozzle tip. Air in the nozzle will cause problems. Even if the air goes in through the bowden that's bad as well - you can get air bubbles in among the molten filament and those will cause overextrusion as they expand and then underextrusion when they escape through the nozzle.

Yes I call that "raised edges" on overhangs. But that wouldn't explain the bottom half of the hole. There's not much to do about raised edges except make sure your parts sticks like hell to the print bed. That's a different topic though. Is the feeder on the (1) print head? Or is it on the (2) back of the printer on the other end of a long bowden? If (1) you typically want about 1 or 2mm of retraction. If #2 then you want about 7mm per meter of bowden. 7mm may be too much - if you retract too much then air gets in the nozzle and creates all kinds of problems with over and underextrustion which could explain what you are seeing. You might want to try just 4mm retraction. Look at the top of the arc of the bowden while printing - during retraction it should drop off from the top of the bowden and almost rest on the bottom of the bowden in that top arc. Any extra retraction will cause the filament to pull upwards out of the nozzle which is bad. When you are printing it's normal to have 100psi of pressure in the nozzle (maybe 1000psi - I forget exactly). Retracting just enough to get that to 10psi is plenty of retraction.

They all slice okay for me. Here's all 3. They were all too big for my S5 but I scaled them down by 5X to get them to fit. Then I was even able to slice all 3 at the same time as you can see. how big is your print bed? How big are your models supposed to be?

You should be able to get the bed MUCH lower. Such that the spring is completely compressed with no air between the spiral.

Okay something is wrong. Remove the glass and investigate further. Maybe the thread is stripped or crooked in the nut. Remove the screw and nut and screw them together outside the printer and if that is fine put it back together. The assembly isn't too complicated and pretty easy to take apart.

By the way - you might want to add some diagonals to give that part much more strength.

This explains so much!!!!! I never heard of "surface" mode before. It used to be called "spiralize" or "Joris" modes or you can just remove infill and top/bottom. Anyway now I know. Just played with this. Okay first thing - the "broken up" areas - are those the same way in PREVIEW mode? if yes: then try checking "print thin walls" or if that doesn't help then reduce the line width a bit - line width of 0.3 works okay with 0.4 nozzle. Try different line widths until the "broken up" goes away. if no: then that's probably underextrusion - try printing at half speed. I wouldn't use surface mode: both. I'd disable that. I'd just model exactly what I want. Play with "print thin walls" and "line width" to get nice walls. There's also another version of cura here that is much better with thin walls: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

Okay so my last piece of advice is bad - tighten all 3 screws. I'll remove that. But the other 2 ideas should work?

Okay that's weird - usually the problem is the other way where you can't loosen it any farther because you ran out of threads. I'm guessing the screw head just touching the glass is spinning because the friction is too low. You could slide the glass to the left a bit and if the screw head is spinning then use a tool to hold it still. You could add a drop of loctite under the screw head such that it won't spin but you can still remove it some day if necessary.

I'm guessing the er16 comes right when the print would have ended? So if it was a 40 minute print and it stopped moving at 20 minutes then another 20 minutes later. At the end of the print it does a G28 which homes the Z axis and gets an error because it never hits the limit. I think the 24V is not reaching the steppers. I expect the nozzle and bed also slowly cool down once it stops moving. If so then you need a new PCB under your printer - the largest board - the white one. Contact your reseller. They may honor the warranty even if older than 1 year. You could just buy a new PCB or you can fix it - I can help with that if you are good with soldering. I think it's possible that it's with the K1 relay (not 100% sure the UM3 has that circuit but probably it does) which also failed on one of my UM2s (but my UM3 is fine). the fix was pretty easy - required soldering a wire across two points on the board. Either way something is wrong with either the red circuit board or the white circuit board under your printer and more likely the white one.

Could you show a sketch of what you want? I don't understand your description. - If your surface is "broken up" it sounds like you are describing "pillowing". Google that on this forum (you can tell google to only search this site using "site:" as in "site:ultimaker.com") - You can use a second mesh (second STL) to change infill density (zero infill is a density of zero) in select areas of your model. - There are many other ways to do what I *think* you *might* be trying to say but I'm not sure what you are trying to say. For example for the original poster I would model the supports in cad.

Well it could be there just isn't enough current and the stepper is losing steps. Or the stepper drivers could be overheating - typically if it overheats it only shuts down for a few milliseconds and you get a massive loss in steps. Is there any kind of fan blowing cool air on the stepper drivers? I'd check their temp and see how much hotter the Y stepper driver is. Anyway the fix is probably to lower the acceleration on the printer. You should be able to do that from the menu system but you also have to save the new value. Here's how to typically do it in gcode: I don't know if cura can send gcodes and receive results. If not then maybe use pronterface/printrun. M501 - reads the values for acceleration and other limits such as max speed. It will include the gcode to change it. For example: M201 Y1000 sets max acceleration to 1000mm/sec/sec M202 Y1000 sets travel acceleration to 1000mm/sec/sec M204 P1000 T1000 sets nominal acceleration to 1000mm/sec/sec M205 X5 (sets X and Y jerk to 5) Most importantly, all these get lost on power cycle so if you like the new settings do: M500 <-- save current settings to eeprom so they are back after power cycle There are many flavors of Martin but the M501 will report back all these values. You want to lower just acceleration and jerk.

Wow. It really starts at the holes! It's really obvious. Are you absolutlely 100% sure you don't have zhop on? I mean zhop would explain this perfectly! Excessive retraction (say 10mm instead of 1mm) could also explain it. Something related to retraction. Please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

😯 Maybe it's random? I'm thinking your flash memory has corruptions and I'm hoping the log file will tell us much more.

That's normal. Move the vertical slider to the right for the colors to come back. It's just highlighting the top layer on purpose. To make it go gray again use the horizontal slider at the bottom.

"conflict" usually means you have the wrong core type (e.g. AA 0.4 instead of say AA 0.25) or the wrong material type.

The Y axis on many printers is the bed which has a lot more momentum so it's not as surprising to lose steps on the Y stepper. Usually though it's a pulley slipping on a shaft (no problem with belts). There are these tiny set screws in the pulleys to attach them to the shafts in your printer. Tighten the hell out of these. If you don't believe me then use a sharpie to mark the edge of the shaft and the pulley and see if the marks move apart as you print. The set screws have to be tightened so tight you won't believe it. If you use an L shaped allen wrench with short end in your fingers it should hurt your fingers. Quite a bit. Go for maximum pain. The hex shaft should twist slightly. NOW - why does it happen in cura and not other slicers? The infill path can be more vigorous in Cura - sharper corners - higher overall acceleration. But your printer has Marlin as the firmware which has settings for max acceleration and the manufacturer should have set that properly for your machine so most likely it's a loose pulley or friction is insanely high due to some other malfunction. DON'T TIGHTEN THE BELTS. It's not that - it's the pulleys. Usually the one on the stepper.

It's probably when you export from CAD to STL that you get the polygons. But if you do too many polygons you get other issues. A good balance is to have at least 1mm between points on the polygon.

Coen - I thought ssh to the S3 was disabled in latest firmware. Maybe I remember wrong. Maybe confused with um2+c.

Nothing special about line 64: I'm stupid - I should have asked you to post the log files. Power up the printer, put a usb stick in it. Go to maintenance menus and there is a way to copy the log files to the stick. Then post all of those files - there's like 20 files. Please post them all.

This is extremely common. It's a problem with your printer. First you need to know if it slipped in X or Y. Then concentrate only on that axis. I'm guessing you have one of those printers where the bed moves in Y - it's most likely that axis if you do. So then something slipped. Some pulley on the stepper or pulley on a belt. Those pulleys have a tiny set screw. Tighten the hell out of that screw. I mean so tight that if you use an allen wrench and hold the short end of the L in your fingers it hurts. A lot. the shaft should twist slightly. That tight. Then try printing again.