gr5

Better than power cycle is to do the "cura connect reset" in the maintenance menu. I think they changed the name in newer firmware - too lazy to turn on S5 and wait, sorry. Don't do factory reset - the other one.

By the way, some versions of Marlin seem to ignore that last 1000 or so characters in the gcode file. This is a bug only in certain versions. One solution is to add a lot of comments at the end Also - did you look at the resulting gcode to see if it correctly added your code at the end? Next time please just paste in the code - don't attach a pdf containing a photo of a screenshot.

I only looked at the end gcode as that's the critical part. You put the printer into relative mode but I believe that only affects the E axis (extruder). Instead use G92 which sets the current position. Like this: G92 Z0 E0 <--- without actually moving any axis - now declare the Z and E axes to be at zero. G1 E-1 F1000 <-- retract 1mm G1 Z5 <-- move nozzle 5mm farther from print - note this may violate software end stops if your print used the full height G1 E-10 <-- retract another 9mm G1 X0 Y0 F6000 <-- move nozzle to corner at 100mm/sec G28 <-- optional - home all axes - don't do this if it means moving the nozzle to touch the build plate

Well allowing ssh access to S3 and S5 would help. 🙂 He mentioned he needs to modify the Marlin part of the code. Much easier to do with ssh access (versus making people insert a uSD which updates only Marlin). He probably wants to add some more gcodes to Marlin to do something special. @rman45 - you should talk directly with Ultimaker about your ideas. Ultimaker people are too busy with their own ideas to steal yours (unless it's something they were already planning to do anyway). You will be more successful if you trust people not to steal your ideas. It happens but it's really rare. If you are a decent programmer then you are someone who is hard to find and better to work with than against (again - they are good people). More business opportunities are lost by fear of being stolen than are stolen.

More pics please. Well I didn't mention it but very rarely the problem is that the temperature of the nozzle is not stable. You can see this by just watching the temp as it is printing the "bad" layers. The temp will be at least 5C hotter or colder on those rows than the rest of the print. I don't think this is it because it is only happening on specific layers. Another issue is play/backlash (if you don't know what this is look on wikipedia). It really helps to have closup pics of the problem from a few angles. Play can come from many sources like a loose head, too much friction, loose belts, Basically with the nozzle cold and power off push gently on the nozzle left/right and print bed forward back. Push as hard as possible without moving the stepper (not very hard). If the head or bed can move back and forth by say 0.2mm (easy to feel that amount - not sure how our fingers detect but they do) then that could be the issue. Loosish belts are hard to detect with this method and instead you pluck the belts like a guitar string and use a guitar tuner to test. The symptom of backlash is that it's perfect on identical print paths (goes around the same corner before printing a perfect always from left to right (or always the other way). Edge of wall has same exact shape each time - no other changes from one layer to another. Those walls will be consistent (same backlash) but if the wall corner is now sharper or longer or some small difference then a layer sticks out but typically only on left side or only on back of model or whatever. It's hard to define "identical print paths". I know it when I see it. more pics of the problem parts since after getting rid of "zhop". how to test belt tightness:

Yes! Perfect. Below is the portion with the problem. In the "boot-2" file which is the most recent log file: It's having a problem with one of the flow sensors. I think it's just not even connected? Or defective? I guess it could be: The sensor The cable The circuit board. I'd check out the cabling. I don't know if it's the left one or the right one. The sensors are inside the feeders. Notice how it gets the error "timeout on reading flow sensor". I don't know if sensor=147 implies left or right sensor. It could be simply the cable came off during shipping - under the printer? If you can't find any loose cables then I think you need to contact the reseller again and ship it back again. Sorry. Send them the text below. The feeder comes apart very easy if you just remove the two obvious screws. Taking it apart farther than that is tricky. I don't remember if you have easy access to the sensor or not. I wouldn't remove the bottom cover without permission from your reseller. Feb 14 10:21:18 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:18,925 INFO printerService Procedure next step: PRINT: PRINTING Feb 14 10:21:18 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:18,967 INFO switchActiveHotendProcedure Target hotend = 0 Feb 14 10:21:18 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:18,994 INFO printerService Procedure finished: SWITCH_ACTIVE_HOTEND Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,007 INFO printerService Procedure finished: PRE_PRINT_SETUP Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,056 INFO printerService Procedure start: SWITCH_ACTIVE_HOTEND: WAIT Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,060 INFO printerService Procedure next step: SWITCH_ACTIVE_HOTEND: WAIT Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,142 WARNING transportLayer Got error line 1 from printer: Error:A1335_FLOW_SENSOR_ERROR: timeout on reading flow angle, sensor=147 Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,144 ERROR controller Halting ALL procedures Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,148 ERROR applicationLayer Marlin error: SYSTEM HALT! Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[947]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,165 ERROR marvinService Added Fault: <Fault: level=3 code=13 message='Error:A1335_FLOW_SENSOR_ERROR: timeout on reading flow angle, sensor=147' data='dbus.Dictionary({}, signature=dbus.Signature('sv'))'> Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1866]: INFO Okuda.DBus.PrinterServiceProxy Processing PrinterError(level: 3, code: 13, msg: 'Error:A1335_FLOW_SENSOR_ERROR: timeout on reading flow angle, sensor=147') Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1866]: INFO Okuda.Components.screen_saver modeChanged: Mode.Printing --> Mode.AttentionRequired Feb 14 10:21:19 ultimakersystem-ccbdd300b763 python3[1001]: 2019-02-14 10:21:19,232 INFO printFileStep Print procedure aborted

To share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

Note that you can scale your entire part by % by clicking on the part and on the left edge there are is a scaling tool. You can type the percentage to scale up or down. You can also uncheck the "uniform scaling" checkbox in the tool and scale only X and Y for example. Horizontal expansion can't be done by percentage - percentage of what? The thickness of the current hole or post or wall being printed? If you are only printing a perfect, solid cylinder, then horizontal expansion makes sense to be a percentage of part size but then you could just use the scaling tool instead. If part scaling isn't what you want then maybe you can explain in more detail how this would be used. Normally it's used because you want to increase or decrease slightly to compensate for how the filament spreads out when it prints a single line of filament. Or to thicken up all the walls in an architectural design without going back to cad. (I moved your question into it's own topic)

Are you saying your circles aren't sticking? Well then you 100% need to watch that video I linked to. They should stick just fine. PETG is easy to get to stick. Very easy. If you know all the tricks. Yes, I know, it's a long video. It's 20 minutes. But it's packed with critical information. You are going to have to learn all the techniques before you can get those circles to stick. And stick well.

Ouch! Anything red in xray view is a serious problem. Those need to be fixed in CAD. There shouldn't be anything red. @jevans_98 - are you using sketchup? What cad software are you using. I have articles helping you to make sketchup models manifold but don't want to show you if you are using something else.

You could also show your product to people at Ultimaker and they might just hire you and have you incorporate your software into every printer going forwards. 🙂

Z nut is embedded into your bed - when the z screw rotates the nut pushes the bed up or down. Note that the Z screw is triple helix on 90% of printers out there so you need to clean all 3 helixes. Try just cleaning the top few 5 cm or so as that's probably where it goes through the nut when printing small parts like in your photos. Try the "brick" trick also where you put some heavy weight on the bed out of the way - at least 3 pounds or 2 kilos. If you get better results with the brick trick then I'd take the z screw out of the printer and clean it very well with wd40 over newspaper and then add 1 drop of grease. Or less than 1 drop. Only the Z screws get grease - all other rods get oil or even better possibly nothing. If there are ball bearings in a bearing then maybe better to not use any oil at all. For example the bearings for the Z rods probably have ball bearings inside. Any oil will just help dust get in there and should probably be avoided. If you do take out the z screw(s) then the added benefit is you can slide the bed up and down and feel how much resistance there is. Sometimes the Z rods are not parallel or other issues.

So there is a communication between the linux computer (the boot process is shown in the logs above) and the servo controller computer (an arduino based computer). The linux computer is on an Olimex lime2 red circuit board. It has a powerful dual core cell-phone-like processor. The arduino based computer is on the white circuit board under your printer. The arduino (white PCB) controls your servos directly. The linux computer (red PCB) has to tell the arduino what it wants - typically by sending gcodes to it. For example "G28" is sent to the arduino and the arduino runs a script to home 3 of the servos. The communication between these 2 computers occurs over USB possibly? Or maybe a direct serial connection? What I suspect is that as part of this communication, the gcodes and responses from arduino back to the linux computer, contain some message that indicates an error. The linux computer doesn't know what to do with certain unexpected results and so spews out this generic message. This is my theory as to what is going on. Regardless - both computers are mounted on the same single component (Ultimaker won't ship just one of the PCBs). I'm hoping that the log file will show some of this communication error which will prove beyond any doubt that the problem is with one of these 2 computers.

The log files should be huge - tens of thousands of lines long. That's just 44 seconds of the boot process when you first power on the printer. There should be many log files covering several days. Ideally you want the error to occur and then right afterwards you copy the log files to the USB flash.

So you can do this and set any quantity of layers to be interface. enable support interface: check Support Extruder: extruder 1 support interface extruder: extruder 2 support interface thickness: 0.6 <-- this gives you 3 layers if you are at layer height of 0.2 Plus 5 more related features. Just above all the settings there is a search box. Put "interface" in the search box and it will show visible and hidden features with "interface" in the name or description of the setting.

Yes! This feature exists! It even has the same word, "interface" in the feature: "enable support interface". Wait - I think there's more to it than that but you can do a layer of support with soluble material...

What country are you in? Maybe I can point you to someone who can give you better service. Or maybe after I see your error log I can convince your reseller that you need a new controller board.

@jevans_98 can you post a screen shot of what you are talking about? Also please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

Good point - so the uSD card that can be put into these printers doesn't have to install all the software. It could instead just add this guys software. The computer inside is an Olimex and they have instructions how to create a small copy of the Debian Jessie operating system which boots up the Olimex off your uSD. Then you typically have scripts that unzip EVERYTHING to install onto the "hard drive" (flash drive) of the Olimex. It's easy to instead just copy in your code and make changes to the UM code as needed. The benefit is that now your code will work with future versions of UM Firmware (if UM doesn't change anything critical to you), and it won't change existing parameters like calibration settings. Still I'm not sure how much customers will be willing to open up the bottom cover, stick in this uSD card, power up, and wait a few minutes for it to update.

I ask again...

Is there an error number? Like "ultimaker.com/ER25"? Can you show a photo on of the display on the S5? My guess is you need a new white PCB controller board. They don't sell it separately - you have to get the Olimex board with it. Normally around 650 euros/dollars but you are still under warranty. So after you get the error, put a USB flash stick into the printer and go to maintenance and get the log files. Then post the newest 2 log files here. The data in the log files last several days so you probably don't even have to duplicate the error but it is helpful to have the error near the newest portion of the log files. Knowing the time within a minute of when the error occurred because the log files have the time in them as well and they tend to be full of lots and lots of non-errors so it's sometimes hard to find an error in there but usually I can just search for "error".

1) To share a project file go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here. 2) It's very hard to see in your photo to see what is infill and what isn't. There is a row across the top of the screen (PREPARE PREVIEW MONITOR). The next row down you have "color scheme" set to material color. Please change that to "line type" and then the different line types will be different colors and make it easier to see your issue. 3) So your issue seems to be that the normals are backwards for some of the triangles. An stl file consists of a huge list of unordered triangles with normals. The normals say which side of each triangle faces air versus plastic. The rim around your door seem to have the normals backwards. What CAD are you using? Most CAD won't let you place those backwards. Sketchup is one of a few CAD that let you do this easily but it's easy to fix the normals in all CAD but different instructions for each CAD. You can probably fix this in cura: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals".

From the photos the arms look fine. Well you can also lean David back as much as possible so most of the support is towards the back. a 30 degree tilt should be enough that you don't need any support on the head - not even the chin. You'll need it on the arm but it should attach farther back - more out of view when looking from the front. You could get a UM3 which uses PVA, dissolvable support and will give you a better quality. 🙂

Those horizontal bands are almost always caused by Z errors. So try thicker layers. Let's say the error is typically 0.02mm randomly. If your layer height is 0.1mm then that's a 20% error and you will get 20% over or under extrusion causing the layers to stick outward (or inward) about 20% of line width. If your layer height is 0.2mm then all the errors will be half that. Cleaning the z screw(s) might help. If your bed moves down (versus nozzle moving up) then putting a heavy weight like a brick on the print bed may help. You might need to replace some of the Z hardware (vertical rods, bearings around the rods, z screw or Z nut). The Z nut is the easiest to replace and moving from a 0.50 dollar part to a $3 part can make a huge difference in quality. I have seen several printers with those horizontal lines and cleaning out the z screws helped a lot.

Don't worry about stepping on toes too much. The support groups hate stuff like this but the rest of the company (most of the company) welcomes 3rd party add ons and such. Some companies even charge quite a bit of money for add ons. But you are right to worry about losing the ability to have your plugin installed on S3 and some day maybe S5. I don't know ultimaker's plans but I wouldn't be surprised if they took the feature away. Disappointed but not surprised. There *is* a way to install the software onto an S3 using a microSD card as well. It requires removing the bottom cover but it's pretty simple otherwise. You could charge for and ship microsd cards preloaded with the proper S3 software plus your modification. Same with S5 R2 (release 2). But this is a harder sell for customers with S5 R1 which has deadly voltages under the cover.