gr5

So cura mesh tools complains that your model is 3 separate meshes but it prints reasonably well despite that. The hat and heat print separately as you can see so it won't be as solid of a model. You could fill in the space between. Anyway I think most of your issues will go away when you go from 7 million to just 70 thousand triangles. It appears to be in inches. STL files should always be exported to mm even if you used inches to edit it. I mulitplied by 2540% (25.4X) and got this (each square is 1cm so bigger than it may look - it's a big printer): Your model in meshlab - note how in the purple area at the bottom - number of faces...

Your model has 7 million triangles! That's crazy. It took an entire minute to load it into cura. I decimated pikachu using this technique down to only 70,000 triangles which is still way more than you need. Maybe still too many. stl attached. http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab pika.stl

Uncheck "origin at center". That feature is only for delta printers. 99.9% of printers don't do that so it's printing in the front left corner instead.

I swear it's frustrating when I post the exact correct answer and then a week later someone else posts the same thing and the original poster is like "dude #2! It Worked!". Please read all my posts above. Sorry to make many small posts.

Please post a new project file if "max comb distance with not retract" isn't working for you. Or go back to the project that you posted above because that solution works perfectly.

Maybe there have been too many posts in this topic and skipped one of my posts? The one that gives you the answer to the question you asked?

I loaded your project and changed the "max comb distance with no retract" set to 0 and all the movements went from light blue to dark blue indicating retraction. Are you 100% sure you tried that? I'm very confused now.

I'm not 100% sure but I think it means the gcode file is corrupt (actually ufp file for S3). If it only did this through USB then I'd say you've got a bad USB drive but if it also does it through network printing - still (check one more time if you haven't already since you got the printer back) then I'd say your flash memory on the olimex board is corrupt. I'd get a new one asap. Especially while still under warranty! Another thing to try - upgrade the software to the latest firmware - this stresses the flash drive and moves files around and if it completely fails the upgrade then that's confirmation. Or if you are lucky now files printed over the network are in a new position. If you know linux and you have the older firmware you could create a few gigabytes of junk data on there such that new files printing over the network will go into a different location on the internal olimex flash drive as these failures tend to be localized (in just a few spots of the flash) in my experience. But the newer S3 firmwares I think disable the ability to ssh into the printer and do this kind of thing unless you have the olimex serial cable. Anyway, if it's still under warranty when you started getting these errors, have the reseller give you a new olimex board. I've heard the claim that these types of errors are rare (corrupted flash) which really surprises me as I've met a few people with the issue (different issue from yours). So each case like this needs to have some attention placed on it.

When searching for filament, search for both "2.85" and "3mm" as people often call it 3mm filament even though it's usually 2.85. But other sellers call it "2.85". Or even "2.9" I have found that EVERY manufacturer that makes either size of filament makes both sizes.

I haven't printed ninjaflex for several years - since before I got my S5 (which was right when it came out). But I've printed it on an Ultimaker 2 just fine with 0.4mm nozzle. Some people also lower the feeder pressure - no need to squeeze the hell out of it as it goes through the feeder. I didn't bother messing with this. If you do change it, don't forget to change it back afterwards! If you forget you will get major underextrusion when you go back to PLA.

Did you try "print thin walls"?

The log makes me suspect you have older versions of cura as well? do you have an older version that's working? I asked what operating system you are using not for log file purposes but because people with Macs and linux have very different issues than people with pcs. For example there is a known, very serious, issue with multiple monitors (on Macs only I think). Anyway are you using cura just fine with an older version? If you don't mind losing all your settings, I would definitely clobber all the old data (which is not removed with an uninstall). For example on a PC I think it's all in %appdata% or appdata roaming folder in a folder called cura I think. No need to uninstall or reinstall anything - clobber the files while cura is not running and then launch cura 4.8.

So you tried this? It worked perfectly as desired?

Ah! I didn't realize your part was very thin. The term "wall" has a different meaning for thin parts. In Cura "wall" is the portion that surrounds the "infill". You don't have any infill (would be colored yellow in your picture above - the green is just an inner wall). Okay this is a common problem. I have 2 solutions for you. Okay 2 plus some settings. One is to try the burtoogle (aka smartavionics) version of cura - it's much much better at printing thin walls like this: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases There's also a few settings that might help you but I'm not familiar with them: "print thin walls" may make things better or worse "minimum wall flow" <-- if you increase this to say 50% it should reduce or eliminate those 5% flows yet hopefully no gaps in the wall The other seems like a hack but it is an extremely common hack that lots of people do. Some people do this for 90% of their prints. It works well for cylindrical parts like this but not so well if you have a Y shaped fitting. And it works well for when the outside diameter of the fitting needs to be precise but you are a little less about the inside diameter. So you model the fitting in CAD as a solid. Without a wall thickness. For example a solid cylinder. Which may change it's diameter as you go up. then in Cura you disable infill, you disable top and bottom skin (set skin thickness to zero), and now you can set the wall thickness precisely with Cura's wall settings. And it won't do this nonesense of printing at 5% flow.

Please look at your part in PREVIEW mode and make sure "color scheme" is set to "line type". Once you do this it will show infill as a separate color. I think you'll find that the "4th wall" is part of the infill. You can get rid of that 4th wall by trying different infill patterns that come with cura. If I'm wrong then please provide a screen shot that shows the lines in different colors and also please post your project by doing "file" "save..." and post the resulting file here. Note that it will contain your STL file(s) so hopefully that's okay.

Is your goal to get rid of retractions or was your goal to speed things up? If you want to speed things up the quickest thing to do is do thicker layers. In my opinion 0.2mm layer height looks great. Or put a larger nozzle in there like a 0.8mm and just do 2 or 3 shells instead of 5. And do thicker layers like 0.4mm layer height with a 0.8mm nozzle. I sell parts where I do 0.3mm layer height with a 0.8mm nozzle and I think the parts look good enough for my customers. None of them said "your part looks like crap with all those layer lines" (they all own 3d printers themselves). Another great option is to do the gradual infill. That way infill starts increasing as you get close to the top surfaces but is basically non-existant through 90% of the part.

You had "max comb distance with no retract" set to 30mm so all moves longer than 30mm were getting a retraction. Just set that to zero. Or something very large like 200.

Wow. Good question. You could edit the profiles in the same spot where the built in profiles are that come with cura. You'll lose your edits when someone upgrades cura. But will that even help if they are saving lots of profiles?

I use 3-in-one oil but any light mineral oil will work fine. "sewing machine" oil is another good option. Some printers come with something-lube? I forget but that's fine also. One drop per meter of filament is good. Put one drop on before you feed into feeder. You should see microdrops of oil all along the bowden. I add one drop every meter of filament fed. I place the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unspool 2 meters of filament (one meter to floor, one mater back up to feeder). This is for ninjaflex which hangs like string. Ever hour or so (depending how fast you print) I unspool another meter and add a drop just below the feeder and it slides down the filament. This allows you to print faster than without the oil. Even with the oil - if I'm making a gasket that needs zero underextrusion (or the gasket will leak) then I print at 10mm/sec. With ultimaker TPU you don't have to do any of this as it's much stiffer. I'm not sure it will even hang down like string the way ninjaflex does.

If you decide it's not flexible enough there are many formulations (like ninjaflex) that are more flexible. But they get harder to print as it's like "pusing on a string". Adding oil really helps. A lot. Everyone is afraid to do it. They think it will mess up their print somehow. It won't.

INTERESTING! I also had trouble with 5.7.2. Maybe there is a mistake in that recovery image.

I never had this problem in tinkercad so I'm not sure what you are doing wrong but when you export to STL there are some options.

Watch some tinkercad videos on youtube. I learned so much! In 1 minute I typically learn 3 critical features or ways of thinking. To make a box into a trapezoid you tilt another box and subtract. Lots of subtracting in tinkercad - that's one of the few critical tools. Regarding scaling - in cura you can just click on a part and click the scale tool on left side and then scale it up or down by percentage or absolute numbers. In tinkercad every dimensions should be entered numerically (type the length of the trapezoid base for example) to get precise distances.

Please post your project file. Do "file" "save..." and post the resulting file. Also what version of cura are you running (I have to open your project file with the same or newer version of cura). The project file contains your part, how you placed it, your machine (printer) settings, your profile, and your overridden settings.

Strange. Your stl and gcode aren't helpful. Instead post the project file. Do "file" "save...". Then post that here. Make sure "enable retraction" is checked. Make sure "maximum retraction count" is 10 or greater and "minimum extrusion distance window" is less than 5. Make sure "retraction minimum travel" is less than 5mm. Check "max comb distance with no retract". Not sure if the latest cura has this setting only the burtoogle versions. "Combing mode" is not on "off"?