gr5

From the picture I'm pretty sure your walls just get too thin. If your line width matches your nozzle (it should but doesn't have to) and your nozzle is 0.4mm then Cura insists on 0.8mm wall thickness. But you can get around this by checking the box "print thin walls" and get about 2x thinner. Or you can set the line width to a value smaller than your nozzle width. Usually you can go down to 75% without losing quality so 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle isn't too bad. You can also buy smaller nozzles. Typically 0.1mm is the smallest available.

I'm not sure if it's possible. Does the lulzbot use 3mm filament? If not then almost surely you would need to write some code to change all the E values. It would be so much easier if you had the STL file that created the gcode. Do you have that? To answer your question - if you are a good programmer you could do this in an hour I suppose. 3d print something similar that uses the same temperatures (same type of filament). Save the file (I think it saves as a ufp file). Rename the ufp to ".zip" and locate the gcode file. Save the first few lines of gcode that setup the temperature and home the printer. Save the last few lines. Insert the lulzbot gcode. Use a program to scale all the E values on every line of gcode. Scale by (1.75^2/2.85^2) (the ratio of filament diameters squared). In otherwords all the new E values should be smaller.

yes exactly - combing keeps the travel within the part where possible. But as you show in this image it's only printing two higher areas of the part when it starts doing travel moves. Because each end of the part sticks up higher this creates two "islands" (that's what some people call them) for a while and the nozzle can't travel within the part at this "altitude" because it's above the rest of the part.

@anti - can you let me know what version the image was that did and didn't work? Also do you have an S5 R1 or R2?

Some CAD programs export in inches instead of mm. Even if you are designing in mm or cm, the CAD program may be setup to output in mm when saving the STL file. STL files don't have a way to store what the units are so cura just guesses that it's always mm as 99.9% of the time that is correct. And all of these CAD programs have an option to choose various units when exporting to STL. Anyway, often these parts that were in inches are too small to print so it appears that cura just scales them up. 10000% seems excessive. Ideally it should scale them up by 2540%. I suspect the cura programmers added this because too many people couldn't even see their part so this way they at least get to see that the part has been loaded. Just a guess.

I'm surprised that it's not combing. Well the upper left corner it thinks it has to retract as it's a separate island. Did you try setting "travel avoid distance" to zero? I'm wondering if the travel avoid thing makes it want to go outside your printing area possibly and then that triggers something that decides to instead avoid combing? I'm thinking this is a stupid idea on my part. But worth trying as you can see the result instantly in PREVIEW. I know you have this mental concept that outside the square is a good place to do combing but I don't think cura is that smart to realize it is on the edge of your part - I mean there is a printed wall all around that upper triangle and it has to cross that wall *somewhere* to get to the lower area and continue printing. 8mm is a long way to retract. Did you try shorter distance? You don't want it to retract so much that it lets any air into the nozzle. If you have a bowden printer you want the filament to retract just enough to stop pushing up against the top curve of the bowden arch. The longer the distance, the longer it takes and that gives it time to leak. Also crank up your travel speed. Many printers can do 300mm/sec. Typically the printer firmware will limit the speed so you can just set it to 1000mm/sec in Cura and the printer is supposed to keep the speed to something it is capable of. If you print slower and with cooler temperatures or with a smaller nozzle it will leak less as well.

Sometimes the unbricking procedure goes wrong - I've run into a few people who had some damage to the flash memory on their S5 (and this should work for S3/S5/UM3). It was serious enough that they were told to buy a new processor board and for the S5 that's quite expensive. So instead we were able to repair the flash memory (diagnose issue, repartition, reformat internal flash memory) such that then we could do the recovery image from Ultimaker. The procedure is complicated and was a lot of work to write it up. The first time it took me maybe 40 hours! Now that I understand everything most people can do it in an hour or three. Here is my lengthy writeup: http://gr5.org/unbricking/

Great! yes, very clear. A sketch with a pencil would have been fine. So your idea already exists in the wild but it's a bit rare as the software is complicated. You don't really want to switch suddenly from blue horizontal layers to green tilted layers but do it gradually. I've actually printed something like this - I did it by creating the geometry of the part "warped" and then undoing the warp in a post processing plugin for cura. But it was pretty simple like your example where I gradually tilted the printing planes. The z stepper works hard, lol! You really hear it as the Z stepper has a louder/different sound to it. Here is an article of one person who did it really nicely: https://hackaday.com/2016/07/27/3d-printering-non-planar-layer-fdm/ I've seen other people do this. I've also seen 3d printers with 2 more axes where for example the entire print bed can tilt on two axes (either x,y axis rotation or x,z axis rotation). But the software isn't really out there to do this kind of stuff. Yet.

Probeer de "line width" ("lijnbreedte"?) in te stellen op een waarde die iets kleiner is dan uw spuitmond. Probeer 0,35 mm of 0,3 mm. Probeer ook "print thin walls" ("dunne wanden afdrukken"?) in te stellen. Vertaald met google.

Yes. It's much stiffer. I'm sure you can get ninjaflex to work but Cheetah will be so much easier. Or this: https://ultimaker.com/materials/tpu-95a

Don't worry about printing speeds. Almost every printer runs Marlin or some fork of Marlin and the firmware has a speed limit for all 4 axes (yes all 4, including extruder). For every move you specify the requested feed rate but if that means it would go too fast for any axis for a particular move it slows down such that the limiting axis is right at it's speed limit. Anyway the point is - don't worry about that.

I'd prefer you to show a diagram of how you want it ideally and how it's different if you use cura but then rotate the points after it slices (which doesn't sound like it would work). Maybe sketch something on a napkin, take a picture and post it. having said that, the slicer for the blackbelt is a modified version of cura and is open source. It has a few features - you can set angles and things and maybe you can do exactly what you want with that slicer. If not you could modify the code a bit to do some transformations possibly. Anyway the guy who did that is also on this forum as @ahoeben. Anyway - first step - please show diagrams of what you mean. In the diagram show the orientation of the printing axes as well (which are not perpendicular on a blackbelt but maybe *are* perpendicular in what you want?).

There are lots of rubbery materials to print with. You could print epu-40 or epu-41 or you could print with ninjaflex or cheetah (both from ninjatek). Cheetah is recommended as it's much easier to print because it's slightly less flexible. epu-41 is so flexible it's hard to push down the bowden of an S5 even with adding some oil to the bowden (yes, it helps to add a drop of oil and does not affect the print result in any way). Also look at TPU materials. I think Ultimaker sells a TPU. Many of these materials are a type of TPU or TPC. Of all the materials I mentioned so far, probably epu-41 is the most flexible and I suspect the hardest to print. The differences are small and for most needs, Cheetah is flexible enough. It depends on what you will use it for. That epu-41 elongation at break is only 250%. Cheetah is 580%. So all the materials are a little different.

@flowalistik - do you know where to get ocean plastic? Or only recycled plastic? Maybe @rooiejoris knows someone who has access to ocean plastic? Wait - do you want filament that was made from recycled plastic and already made into good quality filament? Or do you want the raw plastic and plan to do something with it?

Oh yes. That bug. Yes.

By the way you can have the log file sent to the USB and then bring it to your computer and examine it. The height difference is displayed. I think maybe 0.5mm is the max difference allowed? Or maybe it's 1.5mm - I forget. I think I remember - the right core should stick down 1.5mm farther than the left core (when down - when in printing mode) with a tolerance of 0.5mm. It's possible to edit that tolerance - pretty easy if you are comfortable with linux and ssh but if you introduce a typo you'll have to unbrick your printer with a uSD card (or get an olimex serial cable). Also your edit will get lost on the next firmware upgrade. It's also possible you printed a lot of abrasive filament (like glowfill or carbon fill) and that your nozzle tip on your core is .5mm shorter now and you may have just not noticed yet. You might just need a new core.

Oh - that's unrelated. I started a new topic for you:

@Navin2020 reported this error in another unrelated topic. I'm starting a new topic. Do you have a 3dsolex core? One of your core's is slightly longer than the other. Maybe try swapping them (always have the one that used to be in the left core instead in the right core). Maybe one isn't seating properly. If you have some high temp grease add a tiny bit into your print head where the metal fork holds the cores. A tiny bit of grease - the size of an ant's head. In the bowl shape area of the forks. Both bowls (one for left and one for right core).

I often have overhangs create a curl like that where the nozzle hits it very hard. Very hard. I can hear it from far away "bang!". But my parts stick to the bed so well that I've never had a part come off and never lost X or Y position (if you push hard enough on the head the servo will move and start printing in a new area). I don't like zhop because the quality of my prints goes down. A lot. And I'm not very picky about quality. But I get horizontal banding because the Z axis in most of my printers (ultimaker) is not consistent if you go up and down. The bed is mean to only go down and I get gorgeous walls on most of my prints but if I do z hop there are all these bands because when the hop is over it comes back to a slightly different z height. e.g. say off by 0.01mm which is 10% of a .1mm layer height which means now the rest of this layer will over or underextrude by 10% which stands out as a horizontal line around the print. zhop is great for delta printers which move all 3 steppers all the time - there is no z screw.

I have no idea - Cura has so many options and I don't use zhop for good reason. But before anyone will look at this you probably need to do "file" "save..." which creates a project file with your stl file(s) in it, how it's positioned, your machine settings, your profile, and your settings that override the profile. That way someone else can duplicate what you see and play with other options and maybe they will know the right answer almost immediately. Or maybe this is a new bug that I haven't heard about. Oh and post the project file here please.

Oh yeah - that's pretty bad. What kind of filament is that? Is that polyalchemy? It looks just like it and I also find that strings more than usual (but not this bad). Also know that white filaments tend to string more. I don't know why - some additive. Doesn't matter manufacturer or even PLA versus PETG - they all seem to print worse in white. So make sure it's actually retracting - there are several features that limit quantity of retractions in cura so look at it in PREVIEW like you did in the screenshot above except change "color scheme" from "material color" to "line type" and then make sure you have the blue colors enabled (moves checkbox). If you look carefully you will see there are light blue and dark blue lines for moves. Dark blue are non-retracting moves. Light blue are retracting moves. See if your strings are on non-retracting moves. If so there are settings to change in cura. If not then you need to adjust other things. You want to lower the pressure in the nozzle which means print slower. But also you want to increase viscocity to reduce dripping/stringing so lower the temp. Maybe 200C is cold enough. Maybe you need 190C or even 180C. If you lower the temp that much you also need to slow down more. Make sure you travel speed is fast. Like 200mm/sec if your printer can do that. Most can. Make sure the acceleration settings on the printer itself is nice and fast and maybe incrase the acceleration of the feeder so the retraction happens faster. Also maybe increase retraction speed in cura. I recommend doing two towers next to each other as a test part to try to reduce stringing before printing something larger like this. That way you can go into the TUNE menu of your printer while it's printing live and adjust some of these (temperature, feedrate).

What country are you in? The answer depends on where you are. Maybe also say what the closest large city is to you.

I think you mean retraction, and not extraction. Anyway I'm guessing you have stringing but I often spend 10 minutes writing detailed explanation of how to fix stringing only to find out the issue is something else so... please show some photos of what you are talking about. If it's wispy enough though you can probably remove most of it with an open flame - it's amazing how those wisps just dissapear within about 1/20th of a second.

Can you show a screen shot? How close is the model to the edge? I'm going to assume it's just barely small enough to fit? Is that correct? If my assumption is correct try these things from another topic: set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both! details here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura If I'm completely wrong in my assumption then zoom way out - there might be some extra mesh portions in the STL that are not "part" of the model in your mind but are in the STL file - there could be something far far away from most of the model. Am I making sense? Imagine a model of a 2 one inch cubes separated by 20 inches. You see one of them but don't realize there's a second thing way over off the screen.

Don't format the SD card (it doesn't hurt) as that will be overwritten anyway. The instructions should be very detailed. Here is a posting with some information but you should contact your reseller to get the official pdf with the official instructions. Anyway @Navin2020 - the instructions are different depending what kind of operating system you are using so at least let us know that: The above instructions are for a UM3 but the instructions for creating the uSD card are the same. You can also google this stuff - it's the same instructions for making a uSD to update a beaglebone black or a raspberry pi or an olimex board so you can google one of those: "making bootable uSD for raspberry pi using windows" (or using mac or using linux, etc).