gr5

Do you use the "skirt" feature? I use it on 90% of my prints and it catches all the first layer issues for me. If I have any location on the bed that's a little low - it won't squish as much and I can see that in the skirt. It goes around all the parts which is perfect as usually only one corner (or all) of the bed is low.

again - I don't think your idea will work with sloped walls.

I don't think this is in normal cura but it is DEFINITELY in the MB version of cura made by our own @burtoogle and I've used this feature many times - it's very useful for me when printing above 200mm/sec. There are all kinds of bridge settings. By the way, in either version of cura, once you have the advanced settings open, type "bridge" in the settings search box and it shows you things even if they are normally invisible. Anyway here it is: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases Yeah it seems sketchy but I vouch for the guy. I've met him in person. Good guy. His versions of cura are the version I use the most. burtoogle is the same person as smartavionics on github.

On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8 (I had to install cura on that computer to find out). for other people you do "help" "show configuration folder" but if cura doesn't even start of course that's not a choice.

This feature actually exists (well, for the infill) in Cura hidden among the 500 (yes, 500) settings: infill layer thickness It allows you to have thin outer walls and thick infill. Such that for example you do infill twice as thick on every other layer. However doing it your way would work great for objects with vertical walls but that probably represents only 5% of prints. Imagine doing what you suggest for a pyramid? Or anything with sloped walls. Try drawing that as you did above.

Please post the cura log file here. Also in the future, for this part of the forum, please use english only.

Ironing was designed by a guy (neotko) who prints and sells thousands of items with raised text on top of flat sections on the top of the print. So yeah, ironing might help. But your diagonal line is almost certainly caused by a combing move. Set "combing mode" to "not in skin" to fix that diagonal line. Also to answer questions like this also look at your print in PREPARE mode and you can see where it is doing the ironing by scrolling through both vertically and on certain layers, horizontally scrolling.

This is going to sound strange but I've found that white filaments do worse on overhangs and stringing than other colors. I suspect they put in some kind of powder (talc?) such that less of the material is plastic by volume than other colors which use dyes. I could be wrong about the mechanism but it doesn't seem to matter what material it is or who the manufacturer is. White just doesn't print quite as well. Having said that, this level of crappiness in an overhang isn't all that unusual. Maybe that's at the level change? Is that the only corner that is bad? There is something called the "z seam" - maybe it's at that corner you show in the photo. Dropping the speed to 35mm/sec will certainly help the quality but might not be worth the extra print time. It took me 100 prints to get good at ABS - I had issues that I didn't even notice in the first dozen prints. For example the parts were very weak due to bad layer adhesion but it was not obvious until I broke one and it broke along layer lines (unlike my PLA prints which break in more random directions). In general, until you get really really good at it, don't be surprised if ABS prints are much weaker.

Wow. Good sleuthing.

how to get parts to stick better - how to fix warping - It's long at 20 minutes but I tried to keep it as short as possible. Stuffed with lots of useful information about what to do and why it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k

Oh! That would agree with some other choices the cura programmers made.

I didn't look it up but I knew the speed is 2.9X10^many_zeroes M/sec and this is mm/sec so should be another 3 zeroes. But you are right - they only added one zero instead of 3 so this is 1% speed of light. Still, unlikely any printer can go faster than this, lol.

Is it just temperature/fan settings? If so then there is a trick to keep cura from adding temp/fan gcodes.

If that's all it takes then it's probably just the "normals" are backwards in a portion of the print. STL file contains unordered triangles and each triangle has "normal" with it to say which side of the triangle faces air and which side faces plastic.

that number is the speed of light. I think you have to actually set it to something. Try setting it to 1000 instead.

You don't want the nozzle involved when calibrating the extruder. Do it such that the filament never reaches the nozzle. The default steps/mm should be perfect (369 according to tinkergnome). By the way, I recommend you use tinkerGnome version of Marlin which lets you set the steps/mm easily in the menu system and has other great features: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

The part is defective. I know it looks fine in freecad but it's not fine. Since it isn't your part I recommend you try netfabb repair. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php As far as splitting it up - Cura did that back in version 16.X but not anymore. Freecad should be able to do that but I don't know freecad very well. meshmixer (also free) might be easier. Try googling this subject. meshmixer might also have some model repair features.

While you are in there, update your actual acceleration and jerk settings from your printer into cura and cura will do a better job of predicting how long your prints should take.

If you work for voron2 or want to fix this for everyone I have one answer but if you just want to fix it for you then instead do this: Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin. Install and restart cura. Now you can alter your max speeds:

I like to calibrate by putting the filament half way down the bowden, telling the printer to move a specified amount (say 100mm) and then measuring how far it moved. Then adjust by the ratio of the error. But the factory default values are spot on. I mean perfect. No need to calibrate.

Are you embarrassed about the printer type? It's okay - it doesn't have to be an ultimaker printer to post in this forum. What type of printer do you have? Have you modified the feeder?

The filament is probably not clogging but rather it goes all serpentine in the gap between the feeder and the hot end. Just try printing slower. Does this printer have a long bowden between the feeder and the nozzle? If so add a drop of mineral oil every meter of filament printed. It will not affect the print quality. No one seems to ever believe me but it works well to reduce bowden friction. So if you are getting 10% extrusion try printing at 1/10th speed. At least go for half current speed. Regarding pressure - you want low pressure. Grip is not the issue. "pushing a string" is the issue. It's very hard to push a string - it just wants to curl up. In fact I recommend the lowest possible feeder tension as if you squeeze the filament you will get a slower feed rate. Not a disaster but it causes slight underextrusion.

Just now I tried -2mm for ILHE and it worked fine. Can you show a screenshot please? Sometimes if the part is only touching the bottom layer a little, setting ILHE to -2 can totally remove the bottom layer which then moves the part down a layer and it may look the same as before but the bottom layer isn't printing at all now. Even better do "file" "save..." and that will create a project file with your STL in it and positioned/scaled how you did and with your printer's machine settings and your settings. All in one file so I can test it out myself. Post the resultant file here.

Well you can probably change the "support overhang angle" to 80 and that should do it. There is also a support blocker: 1) Create a cube model or download one from thingiverse. Just a perfect cube. Add it to your build plate. 2) In cura do "preferences" "configure cura..." uncheck "automatically drop models to..." 3) click on the cube and click on the 2nd from the bottom tool on left side and choose the last option: "don't support overlaps". This makes the cube a support blocker. Now you can use the move tool (top tool) to move it up and around and you can use the scale tool to change it's size and if you place it to cover any red surfaces (surfaces that are red in prepare mode normally would get support) then it will block support for that area. So you can make the cube small and skinny and tall and place it where the threads are.

Okay same as two posts up but set: support horizontal expansion to 0 support distance priority to: X/Y overrides Z support x/y distance to 3 Those above 3 get rid of those dots you were talking about.