gr5

FYI - using "normal" (not pt100) thermistors for the bed is more common because the bed doesn't get all that hot so pretty much any cheap thermistor will work and these are easier to deal with from an arduino point of view (arduino can measure the resistance more accurately and hence get a more accurate temperature). There's nothing inherently less accurate about a PT100 but the circuitry to measure the PT100 resistance gets more complicated if you want good accuracy on the temp reading. Regarding that build error - I'd contact Adedee Bulle directly. I think he is this guy: @amedee Try a direct message if he doesn't reply here.

@Super_paulie your part is big enough that I don't think your issue is "small part cooling" issue. Not certain. But you can print two at once. The catch is that you may get some stringing between your parts. I get stringing with certain filaments but not with others (not even a tiny bit). I don't pay all the much attention though to which types string as the small amount of stringing I do get clean up pretty easily. But keep this in mind. Anyway I don't think you have too little cooling - you can always increase fan speed if you do. I'm glad your fan kicks on at 8%. You should try stopping the fan with a finger and see if it can restart but don't worry. That 25% number isn't all that helpful as all fans are different. As far ask breaking the part - put it in a vice or something. come on - PLA isn't that strong. It's no stronger than wood. I can break a pencil in my hands. You should be able to break a print of the same dimensions even easier but it's okay to use tools. You want to stress it like a bridge is stressed - from 3 points. Rest it horizontally on a fulcrum (like another pencil?) and then push down on the ends. Ideally it will not break on a single layer but shift over a few layers indicating that you have reasonable layer adhesion.

x86 and arm are completely different instruction sets. Much of Cura is written in C++ including the "engine" which does the actual slicing. When you compile C++ to instructions you have to tell the compiler what CPU instruction set to compile to. All the intel cpu chips and AMD chips support x86 instructions but there are many other CPUs that have their own (better?) instruction set. It's more complicated than this because there are also operating system differences from one linux to another (which you can get around) but if you don't even use an x86 cpu then that's a huge deal.

I don't know. 99% of the time, PVA and Nylon get too wet (not too dry) but I've heard (from @SandervG ) that it can get too dry and one of the symptoms is that it is brittle (I've never experienced this and I basically drown my PVA in desiccant). I don't think Nylon is a problem when it's too dry - just PVA. I have multiple humidifiers running in the winter so it never gets below 40% humidity in my home.

That's almost surely a problem with the model. Did you try printing it? It might work okay - the lines might be close enough to bond. Look at it in layer view and lower the slider until you can see that slice/opening. You can play with the cura "mesh repair" features or you can try sending it through a free repair service. But I suspect that tiny air gap is really there in the model and so the repair services might not fix anything: netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Here's another service - drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php

I'm guessing your fan is cooling your nozzle too much when it first comes on. By default the fan is off on the bottom layer and comes on for the next layer. It could be that your nozzle recovers eventually (the PID algorithm increases power to the nozzle until things stabilize at the correct temperature despite the fan). Try leaving the fan off for a few more layers to see what happens. You might want to redesign your fan shroud so it doesn't blow directly onto the nozzle.

I don't understand peterfrosta. Do you want your account deleted? Or not? It's easy for you to disable all notifications if the problem is that you are getting mail from this forum. We prefer not to delete any posts as other people can read your posts and learn from them. The point of this forum/community is for people to help each other. Or if you created a topic and you are very embarrassed I can delete all your posts in a particular topic. What is it that you want exactly? You can also send me a direct message if you want to keep the conversation private.

Are you saying you want ultimaker brand filament or any 2.85mm filament. Because there's tons of 2.85mm filament around the world. If you don't care about brand, try aliexpress.com. Sometimes it is listed as "3mm" or "2.85mm" "or 2.9mm" so try all those search terms.

Any painters store. Oh - isopropyl alcohol? No idea. In the USA it's in every drug store or supermarket next to the bandages. We use it to clean wounds and it makes a nice solvent for cleaning things. Acetone will probably work if you don't have any IPA. Ihave never tried acetone. If it works, then after it will feel a little more like paper and less like wax. Ethyl alcohol might work (e.g. vodka)? Hand sanitizer might work? I suspect you can get it any hardware store that also sells paint.

Well something is wrong with your model. Please show a screenshot in PREPARE mode of your model. Typically either the model's walls are too thin (thinner than 0.8mm) or the model isn't manifold (isn't solid). Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so...

I see two issues - the white support material has a very thin wall but no "infill". Why would that be? Maybe show a photo from the PREVIEW screen that shows the bottom portion of your part that it had printed at this point? The other issue is that your white support seems to be pretty heavily underextruded. No idea why. Usually that happens if you print too cold or too fast or something else is messed up.

If you are using blue tape, it is important to clean the waxy side with isopropyl alcohol. It only takes a few seconds. This removes the waxy surface and your parts will stick even better.

Does it show the infill in PREIVEW mode in cura? When you "import it", you are importing the gcode file, right? Try dropping your gcode into this website to see if you see the infill: http://gcode.ws/ repetier also has a nice free gcode viewer.

Oh I remember now. On that same screen with the checkbox, check the dimensions of your print area. If they are set (for example) to half the actual size then you will find it printing in the lower left of your print bed.

Strange. If you look at the gcode are half the points having negative X and Y values? As a quick hack - position your part in the right/rear corner in cura. So now I feel like someone else had your issue but I can't remember what the solution was, sorry.

I feel like you are the 100th person to have this issue in the last few months. go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". Reslice.

Really? The v1.5.7 is such a piece of crap it can't even switch on the heated bed? Okay according to here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB it can switch up to 55 amps! That's over 1000 watts. I don't think you need a relay - just hook it straight up. A more serious issue is how many ohms is this heated bed. Heated beds are all a fixed resistance and the wattage depends on the voltage. I'm guessing you have a 24V supply. So for example if it's 200W at 18 volts then that means your heated bed is 1.62 ohms and at 24V that is 355 Watts. So hopefully your heated bed isn't 1.62 ohms because I doubt your power supply can deliver 355 Watts. But if your heated bed is 200W at 24V then that means your heated bed is 2.88 ohms. Can your power supply really deliver 200 Watts? On top of the 25W or so for the nozzle and another 50W or so for the steppers etc? Anyway to answer your question - just hook it up - you'll be fine. If the power supply can't deliver enough power it will just shut down when you turn on the heated bed. Nothing will get damaged. It just won't work. If you have tinkerMarlin you can use the power budget feature to keep your power supply happy. Tell it the truth about the actual wattage of your heated bed and your nozzle and then set the budget to be about 50 watts below what your actual power supply can deliver.

From one point of view it did not. Your corner was thicker so it did more movements in that region to thicken it up. You may think of the walls as a constant thickness but if you measure the shortest difference from the inner corner to the outer corner, your part is thicker at the corners. Know that there another version of Cura that does thin walls SO MUCH BETTER. That's the version I used above in my only post where I posted an screenshot. See how nice it looks? That version comes from here. I know the author and trust him - a great guy: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

Basically the higher the fan, the better the quality of the part but the worse layer adhesion is. The lower the speed of the fan, the better layer adhesion is (stronger part). For PLA you want that fan at full speed. Beyond 100%. For ABS you want that fan down to a minimum speed. It depends on the air temp. Ideally you want the air temp up around 80C and then you can have the fan near 100% but this would destroy your printer as the stepper motors can't handle that (55C air temp is about the limit - that's what the Ultimaker air handler uses as it's highest allowed temp I think). So that's why I suggested the test with the breakable part. Do it with different fan speeds from 0% to 100%. Do a binary search - start with 50% and if part is weak try 25% (else 75%) and if part is strong at 25% then try 37.5% and so on. But you measure adhesion strength by seeing if you can get it to break along layer lines.

Cura has a bunch of features to mess with ringing (altering jerk and acceleration). There are some good articles about how to get rid of ringing - basically you first measure the frequency in Hz and turn that into a period and then you make sure that all the acceleration and jerk occurs over an entire period. If the acceleration is too fast and it happens mostly in the first half of the period time then you get strong ringing but if you spread the acceleration over a whole ringing period it self dampens.

Excellent. Thin walls are just going to be hard. For all slicers I know of. Some have special code to deal with thin walls and do one pass but I'm not sure how hacky that code is. If you are just doing a ringing test then get rid of the bottom layers as well. That's just a waste of time as that will probably take as long as printing the entire rest of the box.

Oops - you don't have rounded corners. So actually I guess you would *want* rounded corners to avoid that extra movements. Both on the inside and outside maybe? The corners are technically thicker so it's printing thicker there.

Okay so I managed to open your project in cura 4.7.1 and I get the same results you got. Those weird corners are because when you select "print thin walls". Print thin walls is basically doing a kind of infill pattern (versus a shell pattern where it just traces the outer wall). The corners are a little thicker maybe because of the rounded corners so the slicer is doing a kind of infill pattern there to get the full corner. I tried lying about your nozzle width and set it to 0.1mm but it still refuses to print the walls with "print thin walls" disabled. This seems like a bug but unrelated. Let's take a step up. The overall problem is you are trying to print very thin walls. Cura is not so good at that. I strongly recommend you go with my solution #1. I know it seems like a hack but you'll get really nice results and you can keep your rounded corners. Solution #2 - try squaring off the corners. That *might* help. Not sure. Cura thinks it is being true to your model. The corners have lots of lines there (lots of extra geometry). Which is normally fine. But with "print thin walls" it apparently thinks it needs to print a little extra there to fill those corners out. You are right - it's not coasting. It's a cross-hatch infill pattern. I know you disabled infill but this is a "print thin walls" feature.

I'm not getting those coasting lines you seem to be getting. If it's not coasting it's a similar feature. I'll try loading a newer cura to see if I can load your settings. This is method 2 (again, I recommend method 1 if you can pull it off and this geometry, a cube, works well with method 1):

Did you read the entire posting that fast and then post another screen shot that fast? Did you really read the whole post that fast? I hadn't even finished re-reading the post. Yikes. Okay so when you drag the horizontal slider the whole part goes gray so I can't see what's going on. Please also move the vertical scroll so there is no gray but I recommend you try method 1 above. You will get much better results with the printer making the walls in ONE PASS instead of two passes.