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Oh - to save project file do "file" "save..." and post that here.

Sliced perfectly for me. Instead of posting the STL file post the entire project which will include the STL and your rotations and your machine settings and profile and overrides. However my first guess is that you should check the "mesh" settings and make sure they are all unchecked. Particularly "remove all holes".

@Hovidjian - usually those lines are caused by Z axis issues and cleaning the Z screw(s) will fix it but the cube looks much better. What kind of printer do you have. Make sure you have "Z hop" turned off in cura. I've seen this issue recently on the forum where z-hop was enabled by default. It should not be enabled for 99% of printers.

So close!! You almost got it. You actually only have one issue. When it moves the filament from position E1297 to E640 it is moving back about 0.6 meters. That axis (E axis) has it's own speed limit and the move is supposed to be linearly such that it reaches it's X and Y position at the same time as it's new E position - hence it is moving the print head MUCH slower than usual. Anyway the fix is to tell the printer that we are now already at 640.51694 so it doesn't move backwards. So you need a G92 E command: G92 E640.1 Right after printing at E1297 insert the above command. This will tell the printer that the E axis is now at 640.1mm so that when it gets the command E640.51694 it will only move forward slightly. To do it perfectly right - look at the line of code in the original file that you "threw away" and find the last E position before it does the E640.51694. Steal that value and put it after the G92 as shown above.

It could be that you created walls too thin to print - test that by setting your line width to 0.1mm temporarily to see what happens. But much more likely your model isn't manifold. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Hopefully someone who knows Rhino can help you. Perhaps Rhino has a forum of people who know how to make sure objects are manifold. Most CAD software won't let you create non-manifold objects. However a few like sketchup, freecad and blender will do so happily. I use DSM which simply only lets you create solid parts - not impossible shapes that can't exist in in real life (only in computers).

What? That should mean you have only infill on the top layer. That doesn't sound right. Change that from 0 to default and try "extra skin wall count" and you should see very different results in PREVIEW. Not sure if that is what you were asking for.

1) Did you try this? Look what it does in PREVIEW mode to see what I'm talking about. 2) Also did you play with the ironing settings? I just assumed from the start that you tried a few different ironing settings but now maybe I'm thinking you just happened to mention a feature without realizing it?

axes is plural of axis. I just looked it up. Sorry to be pedantic. 🙂 On an Ender the nozzle can drift down. On an Ultimaker the bed drifts down (away from the nozzle).

Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center" (it's almost certainly already unchecked). Then check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 200mm wide but it is actually 100mm wide then it will be printing on the right half of your print bed. I'm guessing you have the wrong dimensions. If this isn't the issue then please show a 5 second video of the problem and also show a screen shot of your part after you slice it in PREVIEW mode showing where the part is on the bed there.

Note that G28 does the Z axis as well. If you want to only do X and Y typically you can do: G28 X0 Y0 However that doesn't work on every flavor of Marlin (every printer type). But usually that will home X and Y without homing the Z.

Nice switch! Normally printers always always do a G28 (auto home) before starting a print. When you say "before every print" are you saying you have multiple prints in a single gcode file? And you are manually placing these G28's before each sub-print?

He can answer the simple question if it violates the warranty. But you should contact your reseller immediately. I strongly suspect every reseller has seen every possible problem including this one. I don't have the Material Station - just the plain S5. But I've heard many people ask questions in this vein and the answer is very often: talk to your reseller.

I don't know but I suspect you won't violate your warranty by opening the MS. Contact your reseller to find out what to do next. @Dim3nsioneer is a reseller in Switzerland and he's very smart. He should be able to tell you what to do next although there is a chance that you need to contact your reseller anyway.

I don't think it's possible to run cura on an Arm processor unless you specifically compile it for that instruction set. The appImage cura that Ultimaker has out there is for X86 architecture only and the raspi version talked about on this topic is only for raspberry pi.

Look at all your "mesh fixes" settings. Make sure they are all disabled. Alternatively your model may have holes. It might not be manifold. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Here's another service - drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php

G28. Greg has an Ender 3 Pro so it's probably just plain old "G28" with no options.

This feature actually exists in Marlin for printers that use newer versions of Marlin. Ultimaker split from the Marlin branch a while ago but other printers have this feature. It looks like you have an S5 so, for the S5 this is a definite "no". For the feature to work you have to insert certain comments in with the gcode so the printer knows which part is being printed next so it can skip over one or more of these. I have been told that the necessary comments are indeed inserted into the gcode. So for many printers the answer is "yes".

Try unchecking this under "menu" "preferences cura":

Oops - yeah skin. "skin" is cura's term for top and bottom layers. What did you think of the other skin setting? wall count?

You might try reducing the "infill overlap percentage". You might not need any infill overlap and it seems it may be causing overextrusion bumps where the infill hits the outer wall. Also play with "extra skin wall count". Set that to a large number like 100. Notice what it does to your top layer in preview mode.

Note that if you don't have a Material station (MS) then you don't have the decouplers.

It's those long skinny rectangular boxes - one of which is just above the person's hand. It's very fancy and keeps track if the feeder in the MS is running slightly too fast or too slow than the feeder higher up on the printer itself. The MS then adjust the speed slightly in the MS so it doesn't get too far ahead or behind the feeder on the printer.

@djquincy - sounds like nothing obvious to some developers so maybe post your issue and log here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues If you don't already have a github account, you'll have to create one but it's free.

Oh. In that case, be aware of the option "print thin walls" as well.

You have a few features to enable/disable here to improve the view. First of all you should zoom in (scroll wheel) and pan (hold down shift key, right click drag). across the top of the screen look for "color scheme". First try "filament". I think that's what you have it set on in the lower photo. You can change the filament color by loading different colors in the PREPARE screen and reslicing. Then in "color scheme" try "line type". I know you don't like that but it's very useful. Yes the outer layer is red and very dark. You can scroll through all the layers - the vertical scroll shows you each layer so you can check out if the infill is correct and look for issues with overhangs (I don't think you need any support with this model - except possibly the chin? The shoulders look like they will be fine without support).