gr5

So I downloaded your attached file but it doesn't seem to be a project file? Or maybe I need to install a newer Cura to open it. Anyway it DID show me your model. The model has 11 surfaces. I expected 6 surfaces. You misunderstood me when I said "cube". Okay... let's start over. There is some problem with communication here. I didn't describe something properly. There are 2 ways to achieve what you want. The "normal" way or the "vase" way. You are combining the two methods to get a disaster. You can't combine the two methods. You have to pick one or the other. 1) Vase way: use either spiralize (not recommended as it is buggy) or disable infill and set top layers and top thickness to zero. This requires a cube like part!! Nothing like your model. Imagine your model but fill it with cement. Your model should have only 6 sides (like a cube but not necessarily equal length sides). A cuboid. So to use this method you must create a new CAD model. You also need to set your line width to exactly what you want the thickness of your walls to be (e.g. 0.4mm or 0.35mm or 0.5mm all can be achieved with a 0.4mm nozzle). Set shells to 1 so it only makes one pass. 2) Normal way: use your existing model. Do not select spiralize. Do not set infill to zero. Do not set top thickness to zero. But do use "print thin walls" and set the line width on the small side of things (0.4mm or 0.3mm maybe). This will give you weird artifacts like in your screenshot above but I think you just have coasting enabled. I can't tell because you didn't set color scheme to "line type".

Again, please set "color scheme" to "line type". Those weird moves are almost surely coasting and will show up in blue. but I want to be sure. This setting is found in the line just below where it says "PREPARE" and "PREVIEW".

By the way, line width, layer height also affects adhesion. If you lay down a thick layer it's easier for it to melt the layer below. If the layer is super thin and you print slow the nozzle actually can melt the layer below directly.

230C sounds too cold. 240C might be better. Not sure: I strongly advise you do some experiments to test layer adhesion as this is a common problem with ABS. Print a small tower 1cm by 1cm and maybe 5cm tall. then break it like one would break a pencil. You might need some tools. See how well the fracture follows layer lines. If it doesn't follow layer lines at all then you have achieved perfect adhesion Score=10. If it follows a single layer then Score=0. If it mostly follows layers but switches to a second part way through the fraction it gets a score=1. And so on. Play with fan speed, temp, air temp. Make sure you are getting at least an "eight" on the score (whatever that means). If you are getting a zero then you need to get the temp back to 240C and possibly lower fan even more although 10% sounds pretty damn low for a UM2 - is it even spinning at 10%? You might have to go up to 25% to get it to spin. For ABS you generally want the fan speed as low as you can go without stopping spinning so 10-30% on a UM2. If temp gets too high you are more likely to get a nasty gummy ABS clog. Especially if you print much too slow (e.g. 0.4 line width, 0.06 layer height, 15mm/sec).

Yeah - I still don't know what I am seeing. I can't think of any scenario to create that photo. I need to see it from other angles. Maybe see it in PREVIEW screen shot also. Sometimes a photo is worth a thousand words but this time it's just a confusing picture of something that doesn't make sense. Something I haven't seen before in 3d printing.

That is... strange. Well please don't use vase mode. Print normal mode, disable top and disable infill. If it still has issues like this in the corner then people might notice. But vase mode is less likely to draw the attention of cura developers. Turn off coasting (as a minimum to see if that fixes this issue), turn off hop and retraction on layer change. If it's still doing it please post another screen shot (but with colors set to "line type" please). Also save your project ("file" "save...") and post the project file here. project files contain your stl, your printer settings, and your cura settings. So anyone can see exactly what you see. Which is really useful for debuggers to fix things.

Yes I wish "priming line" was a feature in Cura and it was enabled by default. Better than those prime blobs. Although usually the prime blob works just fine for me and stays far from the print.

I'm always adjusting the 3 screws when the printer is doing the bottom layer. The first few times it's very difficult. By the 100th time I don't think. I just do. I have to level often because I'm changing nozzles on my UM2 printers often. the difference in nozzle thickness is tiny but enough that it's worth readjusting the 3 screws.

Can't you just add another 2 lines to your brim? The brim always prints the outside first for this very reason. What am I missing?

I've never had this problem but I've only gone through about 3 spools of PVA over the years. I've been told that dry PVA gets brittle and can break. It might be that your spool is over a year old but I have 1 year old pva that is still fine. Anyway I would first assume that only the outer meter or two is brittle. So I would try breaking it manually and then unspool a bit and repeat the experiment for a meter or two (and throw all that away) and see if it gets better. If not loosing the spool a bit so air can get down into the top 2 or so layers of the spool and leave it out at 50% humidity for 24 hours to see if it can self repair. Normally the problem is the opposite - it gets too much humidity. Then when printing, the water is boiling and causing the PVA to foam and act badly (doesn't stick to itself and it's too big and the head can bump into it).

Yes - cura literally slices your model into 2 dimensional slices by intersecting a plane with the triangles in the STL (an STL is a list of unordered triangles in 3 dimensional space). This gives you a bunch of unordered lines. Cura next tries to string those lines into loops (but there's tiny floating discrepencies due to rounding/precision errors). then it creates a "shell" path on the "solid side" of those loops (sometimes just inside, sometimes just outside if the loop describes a hole int hepart). So it always does 2 paths. Always. Hopefully some day Cura will get smarter and only do one path for thin walls. Meanwhile you have a few options: check the box for "print thin walls". This may solve your problem alone. If not you might have to lower the line width just a little bit - say 0.39mm. Another option is to use a smaller nozzle. Another option is to set the line width quite a bit smaller than the nozzle hole. Usually 75% to 200% is pretty safe - so 0.3mm line widht for a 0.4mm nozzle will have pretty good quality. Finally, there is a hack. If you have very simple geometry and you don't need any fill, you can model instead a cube in CAD. Then uncheck the "infill" and set both "top layers" and "top thickness" to zero. Voila - a box where the nozzle just does one pass. Oh and set shell to 0.4mm and line width to 0.4mm. This last hack is what you really want but only works for certain geometries (e.g. vases, cups, boxes). Note that 0.4mm thick might not be strong enough for your needs.

By the way, @burtoogle hasn't posted in the forum for 6 weeks (which is a lot for him). But he's still alive as he's still doing stuff on github.

Try running it from a "terminal" window so you can see the error messages.

That doesn't help. Are they on the same layer? How many layers apart? Did you use support or did this just print in mid-air? Maybe show from another angle? Are we looking at 3 different levels/layers?

Yeah I get errors all the time in the console window but I ignore them as cura seems to work fine. Here are my errors for today: geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/Downloads$ ./Cura-mb-master-20190424.AppImage qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range Trying to create a QVariant instance of QMetaType::Void type, an invalid QVariant will be constructed instead I assume windows people get errors also but they are probably in the log file so they don't notice.

I guess another option would be to print two of these "bracelets" at the same time so that one can cool down while printing the other but... fan is probably better. What is the temp of your heated bed? I usually like 110C for ABS to get it to stick well, and to heat the air in the chamber well, but 110C can also give you that bowing inward - particularly if your fan is off.

Oh. That. Well it's related to the heated bed and cooling. You could try upping the cooling fan a bit. Did you say it was off? If the fan is off that would explain it. You want the fan on a very low level. Pretty much the lowest you can get. Alternatively you could lower the bed temp by 10C but then your part might not stick as well or you might get worse layer adhesion due to cooler air temp. So really - more fan is probably a better option. You just want a little bit of fan.

The preview screenshot doesn't perfectly show reality. On purpose. So you can see the paths. It shows what your part would look like if it underextruded a bit. Your upper photo of the bottom of your white part is about as good as you can get it. I think that's the best you can get with FFF printing. The lower photo - that looks more serious. I'm not sure what is going on there - it looks like we are seeing the second layer? Is this a view from the bottom of the print also? If so then I feel like we are seeing the second layer maybe in the corner? I guess I need to see what the first layer looks like by itself? I can't tell what is going on here.

Mark a spot on the filament. Extrude forwards 30mm. See how far that spot moved - use a ruler. Don't measure *after* it comes out of the nozzle. Measure somewhere further back where the filament hasn't melted yet.

You should only need the appimage file. There is no installer - you just execute that file. ".appimage" on linux is like ".exe" on windows. It just runs as is. But you need to set the execution bit so start a terminal window, locate the file on your ras pi (something like "cd Downloads") and do: chmod 774 Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage Then to run it do: ./Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage

Something is wrong. In the video it is STILL DOING COMBING moves. Maybe that's on purpose? So another option is to do retraction on combing moves. This next setting I suspect is only in the "smartavionics" version of Cura. I've used it before (I need it when printing over 200mm/sec). It's very useful. It will eliminate those dots that you are printing on the combing move. Set: "Max comb distance with no retract" to a small value like 5mm. It will still comb. But it will also retract so it won't leak so much. Again you might have to get the special version of cura (it's better in so many ways - particularly when printing thin walls and cylinders - seriously). github link is above.

I don't recommend FFF. Maybe a resin printer like the form 2 can do this? I asked some colleagues to pipe in here but they seem to have chosen to say nothing. 😞

contact your reseller asap. If you use shop3d.ca know that they are smart and really good at customer support (I assume you are in Canada from your name but it would be nice if you included your country in your profile). First open the print head and look at the base of the print head - that circuit board is for levelling. There are 2 wires that connect to that. One my S5 the are red and white. Some S5's have black and white and maybe other colors. tug very gently on those to make sure neither wire is loose. That was my problem on my S5. I reattached and levelling works fine. Maybe show a video of the leveling? One might choose to divide the errors into several types: Watch it level. Or even better take a short video. When the bed touches the nozzle it should stop moving right away. If it stops before reaching the bed then there is likely noise interference. Move electronics away. If it hits the bed and keeps going for at least another second then it's most likely the springs are still too tight on the bed or too loose on the cores. There is also an error if "height difference" of the two cores are too large. You don't mention this but you don't really tell us what the error is exactly. That might help. There is also, in the menus, a test to see if the leveling sensor is working. Try that as well.

"not in skin" is best for high quality looking prints. When the nozzle is done with a line and needs to move to a new location that is a "non extruding move". If it's possible to get to the new location without leaving the interior of the part then it can choose to do a combing move where it stays inside the part. For example if you are printing a thick cylinder and it wants to move to the opposite side of the cylinder it can zip over to the new spot the long way and it avoids creating any bumps on the outside of the part. That's called a "combing move". A non-combing move it would just go straight across the middle of the cylinder. Combing moves never do retraction so they always leak a little. Non-combing moves do retract. The only time people tend to care about this is in "skin" where a combing move makes these lines on the top and bottom of surfaces. If you disable combing for skin it will instead do a retract and not leave the mark.

The odor is only during printing. Please describe the part better. Is it a bowl? A cup? A coffee maker?