gr5

To make those gaps smaller, make the "initial layer height" thinner. Try 0.1mm. Your part is so small that I'm sure there is no difference in leveling from one side to the other side of the puck. Note that shiny black filament will show up those lines more than any other type of filament (matte or lighter color). Also you positioned the print at an angle so the light reflects off it perfectly to show maximum contrast. So the flat areas are bright white (shiny filament) and the cracks are deep deep black (black filament not reflecting the light directly). So one fix is to use white filament and/or not angle the part just right to catch the light. Even your table looks worse in that area of the table. 🙂 You can definitely get those cracks a little smaller (maybe 1/3 as big as they are now) but they won't go away 100%.

Yes PLEASE REPORT TO RESELLER. If Ultimaker doesn't get enough complaints they might decide the issue is too rare and they might concentrate on what appears to be a more serious issue. As smithy says - grab an old router from the attic and hook it up to your printer for 60 seconds. The mac address should then be visible. It won't hurt security as the router you plug in won't be connected to any LAN or WAN.

@freesbee - can you help this guy? (freesbee hasn't been on the forum in a long time but maybe he'll respond) So please confirm that: 1) ssh worked 2) connmanctl allowed you to set the IP address. At that point I'm confused why you need dhcp? Is that to set the router and dns addresses? You can just set those manually also, right? Just to clarify - dhcp is a service (somewhere out on your local network) where a machine can obtain it's own ip address along with router ip address, address mask, and DNS server address (dns servers translate named addresses like google.com to ip addresses). So if you want a fixed IP address then you also probably want dhcp turned off. You can google about connmanctl. You can even get really specific and just look at debian or even more specific and look at "jessie debian" which is the specific operating system on the UM3 but really any documentation on connmanctl that you can google is going to help you understand the utility. Also keep in mind that there are two network devices. one is ethernet cable (I think eth0 maybe?) and one is wifi (possibly usb0?).

Let me clarify. The usb/serial connection on any arduino can be used to upload new firmware but it ALSO has other uses such as debugging output. If you change the baudrate in the code that is loaded onto the arduino (for example Marlin allows you to send gcodes over the same cable and the baudrate is set in the marlin firmware). That's a bad idea (changing the baudrate in Marlin - it's probably in Configuartion.h or Config_adv.h or something like that).

baudrate? If you mess with the baudrate serial rate (change it from the default (115k?)) then I assume you have to load your project in that brief time before the baudrate is switched which may be within a second after power up. So don't mess with the default baudrate if possible. Arduino can be such a pain to program. I've wasted many hours with this issue on many separate occasions. And then other days I can load firmware 100 times in a row no problem (I've done a lot of Arduino development).

@Smithy have any knowledge about this?

According to this chart - it's not necessarily going to work: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011543699-Ultimaker-S5-Material-compatibility Keep your PVA as dry as possible. Don't leave it on the machine when not printing. Keep it with lots of dessicant in a sealed bag (I use 2 gallon zip locks and large amounts of dessicant). Anyway according to that chart you can try "breakaway". But if breakaway works I'd consider trying PLA. I've never tried support with TPU. I would assume the materials will not stick at all. So you can probably use PLA as the support material but realize that the PLA probably will not ever print on top of the TPU and the TPU must be connected to itself to print on top of PLA. So for example if you are printing a table, then the PLA can easily support the main structure of the table because it can "bridge" and grip the legs. But if you are printing a model of a man with his hands pointing down to his toes - when you get to time to print the finger - the TPU on top of the PLA support it just won't stick at all and will fail. In other words you can print overhangs and bridges but not things "in thin air" supported only by support material. Anyway I've never tried support with TPU so I could be wrong about a lot of this.

"3mm" filaments are typically actually 2.85mm. 99.999% of printers only use the 2 sizes: 1.75 or "3mm" aka 2.85 aka 2.9. If a filament is actually 3.00mm it will get stuck in the bowden of Ultimaker printers. But don't worry about that, the only companies actually making 3.00mm filament were Chinese companies and they all have fixed that issue and filaments are all 2.85mm now. Pretty sure they are all fixed now. I've tried a few. First realize that TPU and Ninjaflex typically have hugely different flexibility amounts. Ninjaflex is as soft as a rubber band and hard to "push". Like pushing a string. Whereas the same company makes "Cheetah" which is much stiffer but still quite flexible. Good for making the sole of a shoe. Cheeta, I believe, is TPU. Maybe. I have some details here in this interactive chart of material properties. http://gr5.org/mat/ Note that both axes are logarythmic. Vertical is strength (how hard to pull it apart). Horizontal is stiffness. Tough/flexible materials to the left. stiffer materials to the right. If you print ninjaflex (the most difficult of the soft filaments) on a UM3, set the tension to the lowest setting on the feeder. Over extrude by a bit because it's compressed as it goes through (so not actually 2.85mm diameter inside the feeder) (I usually don't bother but 110% flow is a good place to start). Print very slow. I usually print ninjaflex at 10mm/sec. Much faster and it starts to underextrude a little bit. And oil the filament. Yes oil the filament. Most people don't want to do that. They think it will mess things up. It doesn't. It helps it slide through the bowden nicely and doesn't affect print quality at all. I let the filament hang down a meter below the spool and feeder and keep loosening the spool every hour or so and add one drop to the filament every meter. I use a thin machine oil: 3-in-one oil. Any light oil will do. "sewing machine oil" is also very effective and popular in stores. I strongly recommend you try TPU or Cheetah or some other stiffer version of flexible filament which doesn't need any special treatment.

When you go into printer settings if you tell it you have 2 heads you get more options. You can modify those options and a few seconds later tell cura you actually only have 1 head and those hidden settings remain at the new values. Just try it and you will see this happen yourself. Machine settings are usually here: go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", notice that there are 2 or 3 tabs including one called "extruder 1". When you change the qty of extruders you should see a 3rd tab. There are 2 other ways to edit machine settings but they are more involved.

Cura keeps changing slightly how to use mesh modifiers since that video was made. But it's only slightly different from the video. Look around in the gui.

Flickering lights is normal. Roughly 20 times per second. Easily seen. But some lights flicker more than others. Personally I would measure the voltages with an oscilloscope to see how low the 24V supply goes. What is happening is that the bed is turned on and off 20 times per second for different durations (sometimes on 100% but usually only at 100% when warming up. Duty cycle can be anywhere between 0% and 100%). When the bed is on, there is more power drain and the voltage can drop a bit. Check the power cable on the back of the printer. Sometimes it is not plugged in all the way. This is an alternative explanation to your symptoms. It should not slip out easily - it snaps into place.

If this is your STL file, what software did you use to create it. I have different advice for different software. If this is not your model, try repairing it in netfabb free service (you have to create an account but it's free): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Another thing you might try is under "mesh fixes" uncheck everything. And if that doesn't help try checking "extensive stitching". There's also a mesh repair tool built into cura but it's not as good as the netfabb one. But might show you the issues: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then if that passes choose "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes".

That's a metal filled filament. I'm not sure but is it possible that can only be printed with a CC 0.6 core? Probably not just the CC 0.6 but... if so then that would explain it? Also you don't absolutely have to get the filament onto the printer software to load it and use the filament. Just tell the S3 you are loading ABS (to get the right approximate temperature) and then when you go to print it, the printer will complain it's the wrong material and just tell the printer to ignore that. It should print with the cura settings and ignore the fact that you told it you have ABS. I agree however that it's nice to get the printer to know the material.

Try going lower then. 150W for bed, 25W for nozzle. 110W for total budget. If that doesn't work go even lower for total budget. The default budget is 175W. So anything lower than 175W will use less power than normal. Also make sure you use the version I linked to (V19.03.1). Older versions had a bug in the power budget code.

I strongly recommend you don't mess with the bootloader. It may seem like it's gone but this is a common thing with arduinos - it seems like the bootloader is gone but it isn't. I have spent many frustrating hours with arduinos rebooting 1 second after starting compile, rebooting arduino 2 seconds after starting compile, etc. sometimes that trick works. Sometimes it doesn't. If it *looks* like it loaded a new firmware then it did. Either it works 100% or it works 0%. There is no in between where the progress bar gets to 100% but it didn't work. If the progress gets to 100% then it loaded properly. the arduino IDE works better at loading a new firmware than the ultimaker GUI. The Ultimaker GUI doesn't seem to like certain COM numbers (e.g. COM3 through COM10 seems to work but sometimes my arduino is at COM13).

Sounds like it is more than strong enough for your particular need for these particular parts.

What did you set all the values to in the "power budget" settings?

yes. The GST has more safety features. So if you are worried about a fire, get the GST. But the GS will give you more power. I'm not sure they still make the GS so you may have trouble finding it. And these are expensive supplies. So if you want to save some money just install tinkerMarlin and setup power budget.

You have to install tinkerMarlin to be able to use those power budget features.

Yes you can but I don't think it will be any stronger. Instead you should put a fillet in that crack. Tight inside angles put all the stress on one line of your part. with a tiny fillet it will spread the load more. Alternatively make the outside thicker (the thinnest dimension). The strength is cubed the width so 10% thicker gives you 1.1^3 or 33% more strength. Twice as thick is 8X stronger. Anyway here's the answer to your question:

It's almost surely the power brick. You could try turning off the print bed and using blue tape (use painters tape cleaned with isopropyl alcohol) to prove that you are going over what the power supply can put out. You could try oiling the rods as the will lower your power usage by as much as 10 watts. don't try lowering the print bed temperature as lower temps actually draw more current (lower resistance at cooler temps). Anyway if this is the problem you can spend about $90/90 euros for a new brick but I'd just get the firmware from here where you can control the power budget: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 Tell the truth - set bed to 150W and nozzle to 25W (I'm pretty sure those are correct) and then instead of the default 175W power budget set it to say 150W. That will lower your peak power by 25 watts and should hopefully be low enough not to upset the power brick. By the way, it's common for these bricks to do this. If you do decide to get a new brick there's two types: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B The GS version can put out significantly more power than the GST even though they claim the both put out the same amount. I suspect you have the GST.

1) Please show a screenshot of the overhang. My understanding of what you mean may be completely different than reality. 2) It should show up if it is at least as thick as the layer height. If the entire overhang is between two slices then it won't show up. You can tweak the layer height so that one of the layers happens to hit the overhang - for example change layer height to be thinner than the overhang thickness. 3) It could also be related to the "normals" in the STL file. These tell cura which side of every triangle in the STL (that's all an STL contains is unordered triangles in random order) faces solid and which faces air. If your CAD gets that wrong then cura gets confused. This is particularly a problem in certain CAD programs such as sketchup and blender.

I didn't expect that! I mean I think it's on my list of 30 possible problems but that's pretty rare.

Another way to test the theory is to watch the nozzle temp when the fan comes on. Usually that's the second layer.

The idea is to cool the layer that has completed before the next layer is printed on top. If the existing layer is too hot you get bad results (like bad overhangs for example). If it points too much instead at the nozzle then you need to turn the fan on very slowly. There is a feature in cura where you can have the fan come on slowly over the course of 5 layers but sometimes the first increment in fan speed causes a problem. This might all have nothing to do with your issue. Just a theory that fits what we see so far.