gr5

By the way you can also make the red stick *inwards* on the bottom layer. This will work better as you can bridge a gap and the black has support all the way around. Better but probably not great. It will probably also look kind of crappy. As a general rule for *one* color prints - text that sticks outwards is harder to do (and looks worse) than text that goes into the print (like holes in the print). "emboss" versus "embed"? I'm not sure of the right words. But in this case with the top of your print it looks quite good. Also text on a wall looks better than text on a top or bottom surface. Much higher resolution for one thing and it holds together nicer if you think about the motion of the print head in both cases.

So to have the red stick out and downwards, it will look like crap. The black will be up in the air printing over air and will fall down to the glass and be all like wheat chex instead of solid. You need a 3rd extruder to extrude PVA for support. I suppose there is a way to do that if you slice it two different ways, then splice the two gcodes together (with some g92 corrections and temp change corrections) and you change the filament from pva to black part way through. No - that's really really crazy. Much too complicated (tons of gcode editing by hand). In cura to make it print the red first -- I'm not certain. First learn how to use PREVIEW to see which color is printing first. Then try two things: 1) I think it matters the order you load the model files. So delete both models and drag the red STL into cura first. This worked for me once (years ago). 2) If that doesn't work try swapping cores - if the black was core 1 then assign the red to core 1, reslice, if it looks good in PREVIEW then don't forget to swap colors on the printer as well.

One more thing - if you can get the red to print first on the bottom layer it will look better (e.g. thicker jaw). Or at least quite a bit different. Like bold text versus regular.

1) I'd tell the person that you can't do it. Did you show him these pictures and he still wants them both raised? 2) you can print two and glue them together. Registration will be difficult so if you are making many of these you might want to make a jig to hold them perfectly centered while the glue dries. Definitely clamp them while drying. "crazy glue" works pretty well.

Two prongs is not a good sign. You get that on the 3dsolex race nozzles that have 2 paths but you should not get that on a .25mm nozzle. You can be pretty tough with the needle as long as you don't send the needle above the heat block. Do you have one that can fit in a .25mm nozzle?

Yes. I'm pretty sure you can. You can definitely have 2 different models with extruder 1 for one model and extruder 2 for the other. You can also specify that the infill (or support also) can be done by a different extruder than the shell. I'm not sure how to do 4 extruders but I think it's possible.

@SandervG - Do you know the answer to this?

I've learned that even though the steel is paper thin - it is steel after all. It can take 0.5Nm of torque without breaking every time which is more than my bare fingers can generate without tools. So it's tougher than I originally thought. Before you take it apart. Did you do your own cold pull? Remove the bowden - heat core to 200C, stick PLA down in there until it comes out the tip (or doesn't). Put the head in the corner (any corner) so the rods through the head don't get permanently bent. Push pretty hard - like 5kg/10 pounds. At this point strongly consider sticking a needle upwards to push any gunk into the main chamber of the nozzle. If you are in Ottowa, then know that 3dshop.ca sells a pack of needles, one of which is meant for .25mm nozzles. Then cool to 90C. While it's cooling down to 120C apply a few pounds downward pressure. When it reaches 90C pull upwards hard. If it takes less than 2kg/5 pounds force then start over and cool to 85C. If it won't come out with 5kg/10 pounds pulling force then heat by 10C and as soon as the temp starts coming up, pull continuously until it pops out. It doesn't matter that it's 0.25mm nozzle. Anyway, once you've tried this a good 10 times, playing with the "cold" temperature and it still doesn't help then yeah try taking it apart. By the way with Nylon the lower temp is not 95C but closer to 120C if I remember right. I really like Nylon as a cleaning filament. Also sometimes people recommend that if 10 pounds won't pull the PLA out, don't heat but instead twist the filament. Someone, I forget who (geert?) does cold PLA pulls at room temp! yes - that's correct. Whomever it is uses the twist method.

I assume you mean this video?

PVB and PLA have similar printing temps and that's the most important thing. If it were me I would just select PLA and override (print anyway). Unless you have the material station, it usually doesn't matter if you use the wrong material profile as long as you get the temps right (hot end and bed). The material station does a kind of cold pull and that temperature is different from the printing temperature and is important to get just right. In fact I've been very unhappy at the fan settings in most profiles. Either my S5 is different than others or someone isn't doing any testing of fan speeds and are just guessing. Because they are guessing wrong for my printer. I believe the S5, when it preheats for active leveling - picks appropriate temperatures for the cores and bed based on the material. This is why I say PLA and PVB are close enough and it should be okay to lie to the printer about what material you loaded in this case. Other than the preheat and the cooldown phase, I don't think the printer does anything important depending on the material - everything else should come from the gcode created by Cura based on the correct material in your case.

It works for most people. What operating system are you using. Please post the log file which may show strong hints of why it crashed. On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8 On linux is here: /home/gr5/.local/share/cura/master from Ultimaker: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

240C is damn hot for PLA. It will change the material characteristics a little. Probably not a huge deal. The print will look a bit different - maybe more matt and maybe more stringing. What speed are you printing at?

From top level go to: MATERIAL/PRINTCORE MATERIAL 1 MOVE It will automatically heat up. You can separately just heat up a core in the PrintCore 1 menu. I recommend learning what all the menu items do at some point. Just try them all maybe? At least the ones that don't sound like they will take several minutes to do.

Hey - I suggested "line type" as well and gave directions. But I guess my posts are too long to read?

I moved this thread as suggested. I recommend you use meshmixer. It's pretty easy to use, well documented, lots of videos (all of the above have lots of videos and tutorials) and it's designed to do rough edits of existing STL files that other people created. It's will easily combine the multiple solids into one. And you can do minor edits. But it's not a CAD program exactly. Blender is the hardest to learn of the ones above and does so much more - it's good for things like making animations or beautiful renderings.

You want feeder tension screw at the midpoint. If you fight the printer you should be able to pull with at least 10 pounds of force on the filament and it shouldn't slip. This is a good test of many things at once (did you close the feeder with the lever - did someone assemble the feeder wrong - is the feeder defective, etc). Have you done "move material" option on the S3? Try that. You should be able to get a stream of filmanet coming nicely out of the nozzle. If you put a kink in the material you should be able to get the kink to reach the build plate within about 10 seconds. If that's working then please show a picture or video of what you mean by "very thin strips". It could be a leveling issue or something completely different.

By the way, when I have critical dimensions - I usually print slightly small and then drill it out with the correct size drill. This may seem crazy but it's very easy and quick to do. The part guides the drill perfectly and you get perfect precision every time. Usually people complain about vertical holes (not horizontal). they tend to print 0.4mm too small due to liquid-rubber-band effect. I always make my holes about 0.4mm larger than desired and I *still* often drill out the most important ones.

It should be PERFECT dimensions in the slicer. Unless you have "horizontal expansion" set to something other than zero. It's the printer that may or may not print it correctly due to many reasons - for example PLA shrinks like a liquid rubber band as it comes out and wall edges can move inward (towards the solid area - away from air) which can make your hole wider than asked for. Are you saying it looks visually wrong or the final printed part is wrong (In 0.1 and 0.05 layer)? It should be perfect. Any errors are probably your eyes but to be sure you could upload your project file. In cura do "file" "save" and upload that project file and I'll look at it. But I'm pretty sure it's as perfect as cura can possibly make it.

@GregValiant - I assume there is a better ender3 machine file somewhere?

But a better solution would be to tell cura where the clips are. There is a way to do that in the printer definition file. The printer definition files are json files somewhere in a folder called "machines". Something like ender3.json. However these get written over when you upgrade cura. I'm not sure exactly what the proper procedure is. Anyway you could look at the S5 file to see if you can figure out how they made the clips a keep away zone. It's called "9051.json".

First of all I think it's case sensitive so your "g92" need to be changed to "G92". I could be wrong but it doesn't hurt to capitalize. Secondly I think Marlin (the firmware on the Ender) has soft limits at 0 such that X can't go negative so your attempt #2 is better. Also in attempt #2 it looks like it will hit the clips so move the Z up first. G28 G0 Z 5 ; move z up G0 X4 Y14 G92 X0 Y0 Now I don't think the G1 X-4 will work as again I think you have soft limits at X=0 - this I suspect will cause an "out of bounds" error.

I think this is round as is possible given that the hole is sliced into layers. If you ignore that flat top and bottom it looks very round to me. Regarding "printing oval" - it's probably the top of the hole that is sunken a bit downwards. This overhang is almost horizontal here and that's difficult to print. Do you care about the "look"? Or do you care about the functionality (is there something that doesn't quite fit). One solution is this (skip to part about horizontal holes): https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

I think you are missing something. First of all - it's on purpose that when you load an old project file you will see new machine settings (but I don't think you lose the old gcodes - more later). When someone on the forum has a problem with slicing I usually ask them to save the project file which is great because I get ALL settings including machine settings. I need Cura to setup the gcodes as they were when the person saved the project file. Now to your issue - I don't think anything is lost. If you go to the PREPARE tab and to the left of that there should be a machine drop down. Click that. You should now (hopefully) have a new machine. You should have one machine type that has your new gcodes and a new one created from the project file. Hopefully. If not then you need to give your new machine a new name - make sure the machine with the gcodes has a unique name different from what the machine was called when you saved the older project file without the new gcodes.

Yeah turn off zhop for sure. The issue you are having is inconsistent movement in the Z axis. Assuming 0.2mm then if the Z axis returns to the wrong position by .02 (0.02 - that's not a typo - that's 1/5th the thickness of paper) then it will over or underextrude by 10% which is enough to notice as it will show as horizontal lines in the part. Z hop should only be used by delta printers since they don't have a Z axis so it doesn't hurt. And super expensive printers that use amazing, expensive Z screws and nuts that cost more than my entire printer. Typically Z screws are triple helixes (like dna but one more) so you if you clean out all the gunk in the z axis make sure you get all three threads. This may improve your prints a little but getting rid of z hop should improve much more. It might also help to add a heavy weight like a brick to your Z axis so there is less play.

Cura 2.3 I seem to remember is quite a bit buggy so I'd go with the smartAvionics version.