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Oh wait! Ignore that - set support horizontal expansion to zero. I thought you were using PVA support. With PLA support you want the default: "support horizontal expansion" at zero.

I don't know but you can't print it that way anyway - it will come out horrible with so little support. Rotate the part 90 degrees so the large flat area is flat on the bed. There's a rotate tool on the left side of cura if you click on the part to rotate. Then change "support placement" to "everywhere". "support overhang angle" to 80 "support horizontal expansion" to 2 (so the support reaches the build plate - otherwise it might slip off the PLA and be useless)

@ahoeben might know the answer. It sounds like you are using linux? I think there is a whole chain of *.def.json files - kind of like "include" statements in C. You could write some code to do it but not sure if there is a way in cura to do it.

To answer your questions 2 posts ago - go to PREPARE mode and slide the vertical slider down to the bottom layer. Then use the horizontal scroll bar and you can see what order everything is printed in.

uncheck "infill before walls". check "outer before inner walls". This is not enough if you have multiple islands touching the build plate (like the 4 legs of a table would be 4 islands on the bottom layer). HOWEVER, 90% chance that your issue is because your nozzle is too far from the bed. When first layer doesn't stick well there are many issues but most common is the bed is too far. To prove that if it starts to not-stick push up on the bed a little (or down on the nozzle gantry) and see if it's suddenly doing better.

@tinkergnome - ideas?

My video has lots of suggestions like about squishing the first layer more. Well first determine the material. Boil some water, put it in a coffee mug and then and stick the material in it for about 20 seconds. Even just 10 seconds is enough. The water will probably cool almost immediately to around 80C (due to the coffee mug absorbing some heat). Stick some filament in there. If it's pla and you bend the material it will stay bent a few seconds later when it cools. If it's ABS it will act no different than if it is cold. Also ABS smells bad when you melt it. Really nasty. You will be wondering if you should open a window. That's a giveaway as well. PLA smells kind of like hot vegetable oil. Like something was fried in corn oil. And it's not obvious unless you stick your nose near the printer. PLA has a pleasant smell. If you use painters tape you have to clean it (also in the video). Don't use painters tape since you have a heated bed. Watch the video - it's all explained. If it really is ABS then I'd create some ABS glue (google it).

I've had that issue a few times and was always able to fix it by either rotating the round nut and raising the heater block or by loosening the 4 screws and adjusting the fan shroud slightly as Torgeir suggests.

Marlin should have two accelerations in it: "acceleration" or "xy acceleration" and the other is "max acceleration". You need to enter both of these into the printer settings (not the cura settings). The printer settings are tricky to find. I recommend you install this plugin: Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin. After installing, restart cura.

Oh and extruder at 245C - not sure about ender3 but if you have any teflon in the print head getting that hot then you are going to reduce the lifetime of that teflon drastically. 190C to 210C is usually best for PLA. I recommend never going over 230C with PLA.

90 is much too hot for PLA. It gets soft at about 52C and you want the bed hotter than that but 90C will give you crappy results. Anyway this doesn't answer your question. So this is a bit long (20 minutes) but it's full of really good info. I suspect your problem is "squish" but please watch the whole thing to be sure your prints never come loose again:

The bearded guys have spoken. 🙂

Okay. I feel dumb now. I didn't read it all.

By the way, if you have a linux desktop (or even one in a virtual box), I suspect you will have better luck.

I'm pretty sure someone said you can't compile for AMD specific hardware? It has to be x86 or something? I think it was @ahoeben (I probably misunderstood - this is a vague memory from a few weeks ago). AMD should be able to work with 64 bit x86 code I assume. I mention this as I see these programs are in an AMD64 folder. Not sure if that is relevant. Also @burtoogle might be able to help as he builds cura all the time (but on linux). Unfortunately burtoogle has been silent on the forums for 2 months. But he's still quite active over on his github. You might open an issue on his version of cura and ask him there if you don't get an answer from ahoeben. He's normally very helpful: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues

It would be nice to see a screen shot. 1) What Cad software did you use? 2) Is it manifold? Are there surfaces on the outside and also on the inside spaced at least 1mm apart? It's probably the normals which specify which is inside and which is outside of every surface. There are 3 different ways to fix this depending on which CAD you used. Alternatively you can try this: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals"

So parts are just slightly too thin. You could try a few things: Try checking "print thin lines" and see if that helps. Maybe try lowering the line width. If your nozzle is 0.4mm you can lie a bit and set line width to 0.35 or even 0.3mm and the quality won't go down much. Maybe use a smaller nozzle to get those thin walls (0.25mm or 0.3mm). You can thicken the walls slightly in cad. Just those that aren't printing.

yes!

If you do "file" "save" in cura it creates a project file that has all your settings, your printer settings (machine settings), your STL and how you positioned the STL. So that's more helpful than just the STL. Try playing with "support horizontal expansion" (make smaller). Also "minimum support x/y distance" (make bigger). If that doesn't work then post the project file please and I'll look more closely.

"support horizontal expansion". Set that to zero. For many (most?) prints you want that on. It has to do with the fact that if your part is mostly vertical with holes in the sides you want the support that sticks into those holes to be able to reach the bed. Because PVA doesn't stick on top of PLA all the great and having a connection down to the glass helps a lot. But humans are smarter than cura so you can change this value.

Just take it off and measure it. It's probably an exact distance in cm. An alternative is to use painters tape. It gives a nice textured bottom. Before we had heated beds we used painters tape. You can buy it cheap on the internet in very wide (e.g. 4 inch) rolls. I recommend washing the tape using IPA (isopropyl alcohol). Otherwise parts wont stick to it great. The IPA removes that waxy layer that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. It's very thin so it just takes a few seconds of IPA and tissue to clean. Also realize you don't need heated bed but I still recommend it. but maybe a bit cooler. Maybe 50C for PLA. Depending how big your part is. Parts that use more than half the length of the bed I'd stick with 60C.

yes. Most likely. Blender is one of only 3 cad programs (of 100s that are fine) I know of that will let you easily create non-manifold parts. Also it often messes up the normals. Here's how to fix the normals: Also you can get visual hints about possible non-manifold issues in "xray view". In PREPARE mode go to "view type" and change from "layer view" to "xray". Also Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Make sure "helpers" is checked as shown here:

So I'm pretty sure you mean the horizontal lines, right? Those can be caused by varying nozzle temperature or by Z issues. I'm 90% sure it's Z issues but you might want to go into the TUNE menu and look at the nozzle temp. If it's caused by temp you will see the temperature vary by at least 8C peak to peak. If it stays near goal temp within 3C then it's not temp issues. More likely your Z axis isn't moving consistently. Make sure z-hop is turned off. If z-hop is enabled then that could explain everything right there. z-hop should only be used on delta printers for the most part. And printers with really really good repetitive Z movement. I leave the most likely issue last - something with the Z screw and nut. I'd try cleaning the z screw. It's a triple helix so make sure you get all 3 helixes. I would do a quick 4 minute clean and if that helps then I'd take the z stepper and z screw out the bottom of the printer and really clean it well. For the quick cleaning use a toothpick maybe to get most of the grease and dirt out of the 3 helixes. You can just do the top few inches of your z screw as that is the only portion used for the print in your photo. I like to use a paper towel and a very small screwdriver to clean out the grooves. It could be that the Z nut or screw need replacing. Some are better quality then others. Another trick is to put a brick at the back of the print bed but you can't do that with an S5 because of the auto level. In case you didn't get it: imagine the bed moves down 0.2 most of the time but somtimes it moves down 0.15 and then when it extrudes expecting 0.2 space it squeezes out all around the edges (over extrudes) and then on the next layer it moves 0.25 (0.2 plus the 0.5 that it hadn't quite moved on the previous move) now it underextrudes by 1/4. So you get horizontal lines that stick out or in.

Anytime your bowden slips out like that you should also cut off 3mm from the end of the bowden so that the collet can bite into fresh bowden. I know you replaced the bowden which is just as good.