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I'd just turn off brim. Maybe show a photo of your part? It might not need brim. Especially if the outside corners of the part are rounded. Another trick is to use skirt but set the skirt distance to zero. This will DEFINITELY give you brim only on the outside and will skip areas of the part that don't need it. For example if you are printing a starfish the brim will touch the 5 tips but as a pentagram so only touching the tips which is the only area that needs it. 3rdly you can do your own brim in CAD. Just put round disks at the outside corners of your part and make them only one layer high (0.3mm).

By the way, running the bed at a lower temperature will be worse because the lower the temperature, the more current it draws when it's on. It has to be off. I could be wrong - it might not be the power supply but I've had problems with a few of these and many customers on the forum have reported problems. Especially with the GST (newer) ones. You can buy these online.

Oh I just remembered - I have a UMO that was upgraded with heated bed kit - that version can use 2 power supplies but the UMO+ is quite different and only uses one power supply. Ultimaker in the past has bought 2 meanwell power supplies: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B The one without the T is better - it can deliver more power (even though they are both rated the same). It could be that your power supply is getting old or it could be that you have more friction on your rods which draws more current. I hooked up a current meter to my UM power supply once and when I fought the print head the current/power usage went up noticably. Try adding a drop of oil to each rod.

I'm thinking it's the power supply. Does it act the same as if you turned it off and then on? These power supplies are "smart". They have little computers in them. If things overheat or if there is too much current drawn for too long then they cut the power. Only a fraction of a second. But enough to reboot the arduino. I seem to vaguely remember you can run the UMO+ with both power supplies at once? Maybe not? I forget. Try a print where you use only blue tape and no heated bed.

Contact your reseller immediately. I don't think there is a simple fix for this.

Firstly - I don't work for Ultimaker and never have. Cura is a high priroity. I assume you meant some specific printer? @Fenriq Ultimaker is extremely Generous! To be giving away this free utility/application called Cura to be used by it's competitors. There are hundreds of printers supported and it's easy for a printer company to add themselves to the list of printers. Why are you angry at Ultimaker? You should be angry at the company that makes your printer!

To save time, maybe also you could check the part for errors. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps.

Okay so I feel like you aren't showing us something. Please show in cura layer view what's going on? Is the second layer covering the hole in the first layer? Actually if you could save your project and upload the project file here? In cura do "file" "save...". This will save your stl and rotation, position, settings, printer settings, overrides... everything such that one of us can duplicate what you are seeing. I can't tell if the second layer is infill or support but it surely seems to be printing something on the second layer. I thought you were describing a problem on the first layer but now it seems it is a second layer issue? Or is it a 3rd layer issue?

Another solution that I use a lot is to drill out vertical holes of critical diameter. The existing hole in the 3d printed part makes for a good guide to get perfect holes every time. This solution is for vertical holes in general (not just first layer issues). Also I usually make hole diameters in CAD about 0.4mm larger than desired (for all sizes e.g. from 1mm to 100mm).

I think you got it exactly. This is on purpose. If you don't squish the first layer extra hard, the part won't stick well which can be a disaster (e.g. head flood). So the solution (for me) is to always set the "initial layer horizontal expansion" to around -0.3 for a 0.4mm nozzle. Typically you want it about half the nozzle width. But negative. Now there are cases (e.g. gears in one case) where setting this to -0.3mm causes problems. But for me these problems tend to be rare. It depends on the model.

That would be wonderful. Instead I'm going to give you the workaround I use. I have 5 active printers (used almost every week - often all 5 running at once). 3 different types of printers. What I do is I always save the *project*. I don't save profiles. When you save the project it saves the STL file(s) and the rotations and positions and scalings. It saves all the settings and overrides. It saves even machine settings. It's quite quick to save your current project (even if you aren't quite done modifying all your settings for the current project), quickly open another project, make some change, reslice, save that project again, then go back to the project you were just working on. I do this all the time because like I said - I have 3 printer types. For example I'm working on slicing something for my S5 but suddenly realize one of my um2go's has a part coming loose from the bed (rare, but it happens). I decide to enable brim so I save the S5 project, load the um2go project, enable brim, save the gcode, save the project, copy the gcode to the um2go's sd card, restart that print, then back to my computer I load the S5 project that I had been working on. If you have a bed of parts - say 25 parts all rotated and positioned just the way you want - if you save that project and load it at a later time it will remember all the positions and rotations of all the parts.

By the way there are is also a max velocity (on your printer) for each axis and there is also a "jerk" value for each axis. "Jerk", in Marlin, is not the same meaning as jerk that physicists and wikipedia uses. This is a very bad name because normally jerk means something else. Jerk is in mm/sec which is a velocity. Jerk is the maximum magnitude of instantaneous speed change at a vertex. Each movement gcode is a new x,y,z,e position in 4 dimensional space and the printer makes a straight line to the next point with each gcode. The idea of jerk is when printing say a circle, each change in direction is small so there is no need to come to a complete stop at each vertex. Instead it slows down to the speed indicated by jerk. The sharper the corner, the lower the speed. If the corner is 180 degrees (reverses direction) the minimum speed (aka junction speed) is half the jerk value (e.g. 10mm/sec if jerk is 20). If the corner is 90 degrees it will slow to 14mm/sec if jerk is 20. If the corner is only 1 degree change (like points on a circle) the max junction speed is quite high and won't limit speed at all (something like 200mm/sec maybe).

@buteomont - I think there is some confusion. I believe Cura has 2 acceleration features that are mostly unrelated. One of them is to calculate how long the job will take. The other is what gcodes to create. And your printer also has a built in max acceleration. A 3rd feature but not in cura - it's in your printer. So the values in the json file I believe are only used to calculate how long your print will take. The acceleration values in cura should create gcodes that get sent to your printer. You can verify this by setting acceleration to say 1234mm/sec/sec and then look for "1234" in the gcode file that is created. Your printer also has acceleration values for each of the 4 axes (x,y,z,e). Default values. I think it might also have max acceleration values. Your printer I'm guessing has Marlin firmware as 99% of printers under $10,000 have Marlin or a spinoff/fork of Marlin. Many versions of Marlin let you change the default acceleration (and max acceleration) in the "motion settings" menu. Many versions of Marlin don't and those versions you have to change it in Configuration.h file and rebuild Marlin. Another test would be to print a hollow cube and put in the gcode that changes acceleration on each layer. gcode files are easy to read and easy to edit. Your ear can easily tell if it's printing faster or not. At some point it will stop speeding up.

Larger nozzle will definitely affect quality. I mean if you are printing only cylinders then an 0.8mm nozzle should have the same quality as a 0.4mm nozzle. Except there will be more layers. It really depends what you care about. Some people hate that they can see the layer lines. I love it. Also larger nozzles are going to leak more so you get more stringing. Printing a cylinder doesn't have this problem as there are no gaps to traverse. Lots of things have no gaps. Say printing a shoe or someone's head. 90% of my prints have gaps to traverse. But for some reason I don't get much stringing with my prints when I use a 0.8mm nozzle. I have quite fast acceleration and fast travel time (200mm/sec) so maybe that's part of it. Anyway I'm often shipping parts to customers that were printed with a 0.8mm nozzle (0.3mm layer height). I think the parts look pretty good. They are certainly very functional.

You mean UM2+. I'll fix your description. Firstly note that if your bowden comes out, you don't have to buy a new one - just cut 2 to 4mm off the end and now you have fresh bowden in the collet. Terms: Collet - the white part (collet is from "Collar"). A collet is a round clamping thing that clamps some kind of cylinder inside the collet. Clip - the horseshoe shaped part - usually blue or red. Or black or white. If your bowden is slipping it's possible that the Bowden is the wrong diameter. Not a problem if you got it from an Ultimaker seller and not a 3rd party. More likely you need to replace the Collet. It has 4 blades inside - like razor blades almost. They can get damaged in many ways.

Sounds like the opposite problem. It sounds like @zuzanah has too many sides to his cylindrical polygons and you have too few. This would be a setting in tinkercad. Remember - too many polygons (thousands of edges in one circle of the cylinder) can make the printer slow down to a crawl. This article explains much more details: https://static.shoplightspeed.com/shops/608811/files/006831493/exporting-models-for-3d-printing.pdf [OOPS! THAT ARTICLE INCLUDES TINKERCAD AND ALSO OTHER CAD SOFTWARE - It doesn't say how to change export resolution in tinkercad]

But back to it "printing round parts slower". I think you misunderstood. When tinkercad converts your cylinder into STL, because STL does not support any kind of curves - it only supports triangles, tinkercad turns those circles into polygons. It could by a 5 sided polygon which wouldn't look much at all like a cylinder or a 20 sided polygon (about perfect for you) or a 1000 sided polygon. But tinkercad makes a decision here. I think/hope there is a way in tinkercad to set this value. Usually some kind of "resolution" or "accuracy" setting somewhere in tinkercad hopefully? If that circle has 100 or even 1000 polygons it will print those circles MUCH slower.

Make sure combing is enabled. It shouldn't be leaving the part (those blue lines) if combing is enabled. If it still shows the blue lines then try enabling "print thin walls". If it still has the blue lines then (just as an experiment) set the "line width" to 0.1mm. just to see if the blue lines go away. If they do you can set the line width down to about .33mm for a .4mm nozzle and not loose too much quality. Or you can thicken that wall in CAD.

Interesting. Maybe. Or maybe it's just vibrations because the stepper vibrates strongly when it skips steps.

Also note that you can rotate your part and the infill won't rotate. So if you rotate your part 45 degrees then it will go one way along the part and the other way perpendicular. But you can make all the infill go along the part if you use "infill line directions".

Firstly - most printers can handle the vibrations just fine. It's just the nearby humans that sometimes have a sensitivity. But to answer your question, yes. You can change the infill angle. In cura it's called "infill line directions". You can have them all the same or you can have them at 45/135 (default?) or you can do 3 angles I think every 120 degree rotation? This feature might not work with every type of infill (e.g. gyrloid?). I'm not sure. But I expect it will work with 100% infill.

I fixed someone's printer that was very similar to this. It was friction on the larger diameter rods. It took me a while to figure it out. I just had to start taking it apart until I found the bearing that wouldn't slip. It only took maybe 10 minutes? First push the head around with power off and confirm that there is high friction. Try some oil on all 6 rods (or at least the 3 X-rods). Then next step is to pop out the 2 rods through the head - they pop out of the slider blocks - after all 4 are popped out, rotate the head 45 degrees and the head and rods can be lifted up out of the printer. Check that they slide nicely. Next is to loosen the 4 pulleys on the X axis and move the sliding blocks separately to see if one has high frictioner and the other low. For me it was so bad I needed hammers and vices and such and I had to remove the sleeve bearing from one of the slider blocks. It doesn't look as bad for you.

It might be your printer - it might be that there are too many line segments in the circles for your printer to process fast enough and it ends up printing too slow. 1) Did you create this model? Do you have the ability to access the original CAD model? If so, when you export to STL - pay strong attention to the options. Try to set the resolution low - if it's too high - for example if there are 1000 points in those circles that is too much. 20 to 60 points is more reasonable. 2) In cura you have the color scheme set to "material type" so it's all yellow. This is hiding lots of important information. Normally you should set color scheme to "line type" but in this case set it to "feedrate". See if indeed the line between the circles is a different color. I doubt it. If the circles and the line are the same color then the problem is with the printer. Again - I suspect too many points in your circle - you may have set "resolution" or some other CAD feature to "extra high" or something like that and that may be causing the problem.

First measure the screw diameter. Measure the diameter of the screw including the threads. I think it's 3mm? Then you want a "3mm lock washer"

Oh and in the second photo - with those layers - some stick out more and some less - that's caused by Z issues - if the Z axiss moves slightly more or less than nominal then you get slight over or underextrusion which causes those horizontal lines somewhat randomly. That's fixed usually by cleaning the Z screw. Sometimes you have to replace the Z screw, Z nut, Z bearings, or Z rods. But usually it's a dirty screw - dirt gets in among the grease.