gr5

No. They multiply together. So in cura if you set flow to 80%, Cura multiplies all the E values (extruder positions) by 80% such that you get 80% flow. With the M221 gcode, Marlin (the firmware on the computer) multiplies each of these E values again by the current Marlin flow value. The Marlin flow value of course is set by M221. If you go into the TUNE menu on Ender (does ender have a tune menu? Probably). and adjust the flow, it will set the Marlin flow value at that moment and forget. If later an M221 value appears - that will override. If later you set it in the TUNE menu again, then at that moment it will override again. But the flow in Cura is baked right into the E values.

Search your gcode file for the letter "Z". It appears several times at the top of the file but then only once per layer. Look at those values and see if something goes wrong at some point. I strongly suspect cura is fine and something is wrong with the Z axis. Maybe the feedrate is too fast for your printer. It will be the F number on the same line as the Z. The F value is in mm/minute so it's 60 times larger than the speed in mm/sec. Example: G0 Z12.1 F6000 That would move to position nozzle 12.1mm above glass and at a speed of 100mm/sec (6000/60=100).

I have used surface mode in two of the modes but never in "both". Could you please provide a screen shot in slice view of the problem? You might need to show the model in normal view as well.

Some of those holes/slots *might* be from pva although usually they are rounder. A piece of pva can be fall onto your print and then when it tries to print the next layer it fills in around the pva which later dissolves away leaving a hole. However this print probably doesn't need any support. The single flat roof that I assume is over the entrance - that is worth supporting but not 100% necessary. But the quality for that will be much better with PVA. I would remove PVA support everywhere else (there are several ways to remove support e.g. setting the angle, but probably the best is to use the tool on the left side where you click areas to remove support then stretch the cuboids to cover everything but where you want support).

Are you using sketchup? If so read this - sketchup doesn't have any requirement to create solids and it specifies which side of the wall is outside (white) versus inside (gray) but when using sketchup people ignore that. Cura doesn't. Much more info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ Also check your model in xray view (this screenshot above is layer view and normal view but there is a 3rd). If you see any red in this area in xray view then that's probably the problem. Finally if it's not your model then you can probably try enabling or disabling "union overlapping volumes" and "extensive stitching" and other things in the "mesh fixes" category. Basically what I'm saying is there is a problem with your model that is confusing cura. Oh - one other thing - you can try this - netfabb free repair service (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

It can be the difference between 23% infill and 24% infill where they run at slightly different lengths on a particular area of your print. Marlin is used on 90% of the printer brands and printers out there but I've been through the code carefully and it's still a bit buggy and hacky. It's possible that Marlin will exceed the acceleration limits if it receives the right movements with the right speeds in the right order. It could also be one of the new features that appear to be on by default. Some of these add just an extra move or two when starting and finishing an outer wall or inner wall. If you know the exact spot you can look at it in cura layer view (actually repetier is pretty amazing at looking at the gcodes) and see what's different between the 2 gcode files. Some features that could be related to your issue: coasting fill gaps between walls ???? - I can't find it but there is a feature that has the print head keep following the skin like it's going to print twice on the same loop but only for a mm or so and it doesn't extrude. travel avoid distance It could even be the nozzle width. Cura defaults to .35 for a .4 nozzle but I assume repetier defaults to 0.4. Travel moves are probably more serious as they tend to be at higher speeds. That's why I mention "travel avoid distance" but there are tons of travel moves when doing infill. All those dark blue lines in layer view. I notice that you can actually set the acceleration in cura. Try dropping the acceleration in half for whatever the default is for your printer. Again - I'm just guessing 1M/s/s but it could be much slower than that since you are moving the entire bed.

It's probably a loose cable in the print head. This is extremely easy to fix. Remove the rear two screws - very long screws at the top rear of the print head. After you pull those out the panel on top of the print head towards the rear half comes off. Then push the cable connector down better and when you put the cover back on push the cable in a little for strain relief and also add some blue tape or other shim so the cable doesn't slide up again.

No. Those are not for adjustable legs. Note that your S5 does not need to be level. It will print on it's side or you can hang it upside-down from a rope and it prints just fine as long as the filament doesn't fall off the spool holder. The bed doesn't technically need to be "level". It instead needs to be parallel with the gantry that moves the nozzle around. But UM calls it "leveling".

That looks like a marlin based printer. That's good as I know Marlin well. Well I would play with the fan. You need fan for overhangs as well when printing ABS. So basically you want it always on - but on low. On some of my printers (but not all) 10% fan will not actually do anything - it won't spin the fan (on other printers it works fine). But it's more complicated. If I set the fan to 30% and lower it to 10% it's fine (usually). And if the fan is off and I set it to 10% Marlin over powers the fan for 1/4 second and then drops to the programmed value. Which is great. But if I go to 2% and then 10%, it doesn't work. And cura tends to do 1/5th of the fan for each layer until you get up to full requested fan (so if you request 10% it does 0% first layer, 2% second, 4%, 6%, and so on and for a few of my printers that means the fan NEVER turns on - well it turns on for 1/4 second when gcode requests 2% - but that's it). Anyway assuming you do all these tests and the fan is definitely spinning, I would still consider increasing it a bit. Play with the fan and listen to the sounds and run it at what sounds like half power (not half frequency - I think cooling power is proportional to rpm to the 3rd or 4th power). Basically half as loud. For all filaments - if overhangs or bridging is bad then increase the fan.

These 2 printers (anet, creality) are very similar in that the Y axis moves the entire print bed. I believe they both have Marlin. Hopefully you have a variant of Marlin that lets you see and change the acceleration and jerk as it's possible that jerk or acceleration is too high for that axis. Anyway to clarify - in both cases you slice with Cura (but different versions and possibly at least one change to the settings)? But in on e case you print through a USB using Cura software and in the other case you print through a USB using cura software? I have to warn you that the people who wrote that "print through usb cable" section of cura probably did not have their heart in it since none of the currently sold UM printers use that feature anymore and that feature was no longer supported when they started cura version 2.X which was a total rewrite of that feature. Anyway I have 2 theories. One is that for some reason cura isn't sending the gcodes fast enough and sometimes marlin has to stop (even if only for a few milliseconds) because it's waiting for the next gcode and sometimes it exceeds the default accelerations in order to stop (Marlin has 2 absolute acceleration limits - on the UM2 they are 5000 and 9000 mm/sec/sec). I know - it's strange that there are 2 limits. One is the normal acceleration/decel and one is absolute max. Normally it never ever uses the second limit. So maybe the solution is to lower that second absolute max deceleration. The second theory which seems more likely is that some slicer setting is ever so slightly different. I'm not surprised that your Y axis is "on the edge" of what it can do. Just a little extra acceleration or jerk and it loses a step. It could be an infill setting for example. The way it does very fast moves and then changes speed for the infill and switches back and forth between these speeds several times per second, or maybe if the moves are 90 degress (all in X then all in Y) and they are quick vibrations that are resonant with your Y axis (the bed and cables make a resonant vibration). It could be many things. The solution for the second theory is to lower your Y acceleration and jerk a little bit. Maybe use 75% of current value. So if current value is 1 meter/s/s then try 0.75 M/S/S. And if the current jerk is 15mm/sec change it to 11mm/sec. Some versions of Marlin (like tinkerMarlin which only works on UM2) will let you change this in the motion controls. Some versions make you change it using gcodes. If you use gcodes don't forget to do the M500 to save the settings change for the next time you boot. You can definitely view and change these values (acceleration and jerk) using marlin gcodes. Personally I like using pronterface. When you first connect to the printer, pronterface lists all these settings out including the gcodes to change the values. There is more info here: reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Are you using any fan? It looks like you have the fan off. what kind of printer is this? ABS needs just a little bit of fan for overhangs and quality in general. But too much fan and it will have bad adhesion and very poor strength along layer lines and might even split while printing along layer lines.

There is a flag you can change to disable autoleveling. I needed to know how to do that long ago and someone from Ultimaker sent me the command to do that. Now I can't find it anywhere. I'll ask around. You have to ssh into the machine. Are you familiar with ssh?

I'm very familiar with the "dadadadada" sound. It sounds horrible but the printer will not be damaged. It could be intermittent. Try homing 10 times. It could be a bad wire but more likely the switch is at the edge where sometimes it clicks/triggers and other times it doesn't. Push the head around towards the corner (back left) and listen for the limit switches to click. Do one at a time - so push the head to the left edge and to the rear edge separately. The X switch has two screws close together holding it on the top rear of the printer. Usually the fix is to bend the metal part of the switch out a bit so it clicks sooner. The Y switch is triggered by one of the rods that passes through the head - the rod sticks out beyond the left slider block and hits the switch. Usually the problem with this one is that the rod moved and isn't sticking out far enough so somtimes it misses. The problem could also be electrical or a faulty switch or a damaged wire but usually the problem is mechanical.

I added "autodesk help please" to the topic to get people who know autodesk to read this.

stick with pla, yes. Much easier than other filaments. You could print it on it's back (last pic) except for those "stoppers". I'd probably print it in the first photo orientation. The front handle will be fine. 45 degree angles are fine and then you have bridging which prints reasonably okay. Although I'd fix the stoppers by adding a 45 degree angle at the bottom of them. Also I would have the text only stick out by 0.5mm and it should be okay. I try to avoid support and I don't think you need any support for either of those 2 orientations if you fix the stoppers in cad and shrink the text to 0.5mm extrusion.

The exact shape doesn't matter as you will be deleting pretty much everything except for the one little bit you want.

Well a cuboid. Meaning a 6 sided rectangular (but 3d) object. But only 0.1mm or so high should be enough it sounds like.

No there is not. There is no way to get Cura to make only a single pass. So what I would do is this: Imagine a cube where 3 sides are normal and the 4th side is the line you want. It can have curves to it or whatever or it can simply be a straight line. Then in cura slice it multiple times and rotate it so that it starts printing the line you care about first. Then edit the gcode and remove the other 3 moves you don't want. gcode is not so hard to read as a human. It's meant for a computer to read it (the computer on a 3d printer) but it's also designed for humans to read it as well. Also it's full of lots of comments. And if you load the gcode into repetier host you can highlight each gcode and see visually on the other side of the screen which segment that is in the print. That makes it easy to match up each gcode with it's corresponding "line".

I'm surprised tinkercad doesn't do this. DSM (design spark mechanical) is probably what I would use if I have to draw the "curve" myself in CAD first. If the curve is already in an STL then I would use OpenSCAD but most people don't like OpenSCAD as it's more of a programming language than your typical CAD software. Basically every CAD package out there does this. Just google the cad package and "revolve" in youtube to see how easy it is to do.

Tighten the hell out of those tiny set screws. It's usually the one on the stepper (the hardest to get to).

Here is my generic answer. Look through the list. Think about each item. Do some testing. Get back to us about what you learned. Is it possible you have the slicer set for 1.75mm filament instead of 2.85mm such that it grinds like hell right from the start? This seems unlikely but still... CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily (well um2 with black feeder can just barely do it) so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.

It's unlikely. If you do a firmware update it doesn't reset those counters. If you do a "FACTORY RESET" operation it also does not reset those counters.

It's in hours:minutes So someone left the printer on for about 15 days. It has printed for only a total of a bit under 9 hours and has printed a total of 3 meters. This machine is basically new. Typically you have to change the teflon part after 500 hours of printing. I recently serviced a machine for my local library and they had printed 5000 meters. That's 5 kilometers of filament!

Or change the top layers from 3 to 6. It takes a few layers to recover over a very low density infill and 3 layers wasn't enough.

I always cut the end of my filament to a point before inserting. This helps greatly. I'm guessing the teflon in your core got worn out a bit. Not a big deal if it's only a problem on loading. This is one possibility. There are many other possibilities but from what you describe - that's most likely. You could try using a different core to verify if you might want to throw that one out and get a new one.