gr5

I either use my eye or the calibration card. But then more importantly when it's printing the brim or skirt I adjust the 3 screws to get the right look to the brim. I talk about this technique in this video with photo samples of "too squished" and "not squished enough" in the "squish" section but all sections of the video are very important to understand.

So this second plate moves around a little bit (maybe 1mm in X and Y). It goes above (closer to the camera in your photo) the main plate. Notice that the second plate has narrower slots. The silicone passes through the wider slots first, then through the thinner slots on this loose plate. I don't know why this plate is loose. To get the silicone through the more narrow slots I get just a little through by pushing from below then I have to grab the silicone with pliers and pull it firmly through these skinny slots. You can purchase these silicone pads extremely cheap. I think 5 for 10 euros. Something like that.

Also you didn't get the same options because NONE of my materials were on the spool holder. I had them on the table behind the printer and they were just far enough from the transmitter that it couldn't detect them. I think the whole spool holder is a little silly as well.

You can ignore that and just click ABS the way I did. Or you can scroll down to PLA or whatever material you want to select. This feature is trying to help you but it's confused. If you want the machine to help you then you have to be more patient. You have to remove both spools far enough from the machine so it can't detect them, then only put on one material and select that for one head, then put the second material on the spool holder and select the second material. The problem is the RFID transmitter is seeing both spools at once and it is too dumb to figure out which is for left feeder and which is for right feeder. But again, it's not a problem if you don't care about this feature. You can simply choose the material manually here. Personally I don't have the time or patience to let the machine figure this out. I just tell the machine what material I loaded.

There are many ways to do this. But there is a menu I think you missed.

So there is a utility called conman on the linux box inside the S5. If you google how to use conman you can set that kind of thing up (username). But to do that you need to first ssh to the machine so, at least temporarily, you need to use an ethernet cable.

How many top layers do you have? I usually like 6 layers. It looks like you might only have 2 top layers.

Please show a screenshot of the model in normal view and also slice view.

It sounds like you want to merge all the parts that are touching into one part (e.g. nuts merged with bolts). I'm not sure but netfabb probably takes care of that. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

@placho - read the post above yours.

I think I've seen that before and I just ignored it and did another print and the message went away. Maybe. I forget.

So I use ubuntu and I use the "appimage" release which works great. But it's 64 bit. Cura has been 64 bit only since version 2.3.1 as you can see here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list The source code is on github. It's easy to get the source from any past version if you know git: https://github.com/Ultimaker You need both of the first two projects there: cura and curaEngine. "cura" project is the gui only. curaEngine is a c++ program that can be run from the command line that does the actual slicing. I don't know how to build cura or curaEngine but @smartavionics and @ahoeben do it regularly. Maybe they know where there is a guide published somewhere.

I assume you wanted to post in the english language part. It turns out most of the forum is english - only the "foreign language" section has other languages. I moved your post to the Cura subforum.

The larger the print in X and Y, the more likely a corner will lift up. The sharper the corner, the more likely it will lift. I explain why in this video. I recommend some PVA for larger prints for Nylon. Alternatively you can print on a hotter print bed - 100C works fine - which makes the Nylon more flexible which distributes the lifting forces better. Or you can do all the suggestiosn in the video. It's kind of a lot to watch but I explain why and how and there's lots of useful details:

First of all realize that there is a minimum layer time feature. I think it defaults maybe to 5 seconds per layer so that may be restricting the speed. You can turn that feature off. This keeps the quality up because it looks all melty if you don't let the previous layer cool a little. Cura has gotten complicated. There are about 8 printing speeds. I would try a few things: 1) Try setting most of them to 0. In the old cura (15.X.X) if you set the speed to 0 it would just not set the speed at all. 2) Open the gcode file in a text editor. It's quite easy to look at. Look for "F" commands. Those set the speed in mm/minute (60X larger than mm/sec). Note that anytime it does a non printing move it has to change the speed. Note that anytime it does a retraction it has to change the speed (extruder speed is different from XY axis speed). So you may have to disable all retractions and set the non-printing moves to speed 0 or to the same speed as the printing speed? Not sure. Hopefully in vase mode there are none of these.

Adhesive, no. Solder, yes. You don't need silver. Ordinary solder is fine up to 200C. Unfortunately the copper trace is ripped. I would personally fix this by scraping the black coating off the copper for the next 5mm or so of trace then solder the wire directly to the trace. If it feels pretty solid then at that point I would also add some strain relief: probably glue the wire down to the edge of the board. Use a glue that can handle up to 110C. Or I might drill two tiny holes close to the edge of the board and use a metal wire looping through the holes to clamp down on the power wire.

Please show a screen shot of the object in "xray" view. You showed the other 2 modes "layer view" and "solid view". If you see any red in xray view then that's the issue - the model isn't manifold and cura is confused. Hopefully it's your model and not the bug that tinkerGnome refers to.

Also if you are printing with no heat you should use the supplied blue painters tape and put that on the glass and print on the tape. It's important to clean the tape with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol) to remove the slippery waxy surface so parts stick to the tape.

Wasn't Christmas 3 months ago? If the temp sensor works but the heater is broken then it's simple - just set the temperature to 0 in cura. If the temp sensor broke you can attach a 100 ohm resistor at the connector where the temp sensor goes. And again, set the temperature to 0 in cura. Probably you should disconnect the heater cable while you are at it. But you have more choices. These things are usually very easy to fix. Usually it's a loose wire. Usually it's at the bed and just needs the solder reflowed at the connector there. Do you have a friend who knows how to solder and use an ohm meter? This is a pretty simple thing to take apart and fix. There are photos and instructions on the forum or I can help if you have said friend.

Mostly you need some kind of cad software to break up a model into multiple portions. But one cheap trick you can do with cura is to go into preferences and uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate". Then click your model to select it and go to "move" mode if you aren't already and set the Z position to a negative value. This will "sink" your part below the build plate and it won't print anything below the build plate. Then you can duplicate your part, flip it 180 degrees and repeat. If you click the "scale" tool instead of "move" you can see the total Z height of the part before you do this and make sure your negative Z values add up to the total Z height such that the parts are split at the exact same plane. But I've never done this because it's too much of a hack. Much better to split the part up in CAD as it gives you more options.

oh yikes. Too bad you don't have all ubuntu as there is no install necessary with ubuntu - you just copy the appimage somewhere and set the protection to "executable". This will get more visibility if you add an issue in github. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues

Check this out: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3

About 1/4 of the way into your gcode file I find this: That's probably the offending line. It's at layer z=14.91. Y should never go negative. It's among a set of non-printing moves. Do you have "avoid printed parts when travelling" checked? It's probably that. Try unchecking that. I found the problem by removing all the X and Y from the gcode file and then reading it into a spreadsheet and asking for the min() and max() of each column.

check this out:

It looks like the bottom layer is failing? It's hard to tell. It would be better to show the bottom layer going down. Here is how to get the bottom layer to stick very very well: