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Steps/mm should be in motion settings.

Do you have a mac? I think it works fine if you have a pc - I have like 10 different versions of cura - I didn't do anything special. That's just the way Cura installs on pc. I've heard that for mac people it erases the old install. Don't know why.

I'm going. I love to meet people. If you are going murphy's law says you will visit the UM booth during the only minute I step away. So let's not rely on chance. Contact me ahead of time! Send me a message on this temporary email and a way to contact you (preferably standard cell phone SMS messaging) and I will send you my contact info (skype, phone, whatsapp, fb-message are all good and active on my phone). You can email me at this temporary email (will last at least until makerfaire is over): gr-mf2016 _at_ spamarrest.com Obviously replace the "_at_" with... - hell if you don't understand then I changed my mind - I don't want to meet you after all, lol.

Supports have options - click the "..." and set the Z distance to more than layer height. For example if your layer height is .2mm then make the Z distance .3mm. This will keep the supports from sticking so much. Or you can use "lines" instead of "grid". This is good for supports that are very short. Personally I usually avoid cura support and generate custom support in CAD instead. But sometimes I use it and it usually breaks away just fine for me - especially if it's very tall. I use wirecutters and cut them in the middle and remove large chunks at a time starting near the middle of the support (half way up). But for very short supports that won't work as well. You can try wire cutters (or needle nose pliers) and twist the support off from below. That sometimes works. It depends on the size and shape of your overhang - every one is different. You want to break it up into several small columns of supports so each one breaks off separately from all the others.

The "community weekend" people have all been invited and is roughly a few days before July 1, 2016. However usually Sander invites "anyone" for one night during that time period - we meet at a bar typically. I don't know what Sander has planned for this summer but I'm sure you will be invited (probably 2 days before!) and I am sure he would love to see @ian. And anyone else on the forum. Right now Sander is traveling to USA but maybe next week you can bug him about if there will be a day when people can all meet at some bar during the "community weekend" and meet the "famous people from the forum". Speaking of meeting Ultimaker forum people -- is anyone going to makerFaire bay area? I will be there - if you are going send me a message! We can share contact info such that I make sure I run over to the UM booth when you visit.

"infill" is complicated and there are at least 2 types. What you are calling infill is probably actually what cura calls "top/bottom" layer which can occur on any layer where if you go up or down a few layers you are now outside the part. Does that make sense? Anyway please post a photo of what you are talking about. If your layer thickness is .2mm and your top/bottom thickness is 1mm then that means 5 layers top/bottom thickness so show us what is 6 layers above your "infill". And 6 layers below.

Sometimes grinding is caused by feeder too loose (slipping). Sometimes too tight. But usually not too tight. Sometimes it's just too many retractions. I have had prints that had 40 retractions on the same spot of filament - could that be your problem? Or if you print too fast or too cold then the pressures are amazing in the print head and some filaments result in grinding. How hard or soft your filament is in the feeder can also affect grinding. Try printing at half speed or thinner layers (what layer height, nozzle size, temp and print speed were you at?) and also if you have lots of retractions (from another post): One simple solution is to reduce the amount of retractions. I was printing "big ben" and it kept failing in a particular section. I found that slice and there were 40 retractions. It was one retraction every .159mm or 24 retractions for every spot of filament on that layer. So I set the minimal extrusion parameter to 0.32mm. I had 19995 retractions in the resulting gcode instead of 34300 retractions. That was enough that I was able to print big ben and the stringing appeared to be no worse visually.

wrong forum.

I'm not surprised that raft doesn't work great in Cura. Raft is an old technology from before the discovery of heated glass. Even before the discovery of painters tape. It's no longer needed so the developers probably never use it or care about it. Try printing on glass with a thin layer of PVA glue and heated. It's amazing. I can get my parts to stick so well i can pick up the machine by the part and swing the machine around the room and the part will NOT COME OFF until the bed cools down. I can give you more tips if you are willing to avoid the raft feature.

White PLA is especially bad at stringing. Can you maybe try a different material? Printing cooler is great but printing slower helps also (and travel speed fast). These strings look very thin and probably are easy to remove.

Lol - you didn't go "all the way". Unscrew it some more and it will start pushing down on the spring making the spring more compressed. In both photos you show it as loose as it can go.

Gaps can be caused by backlash or underextrusion. There's nothing wrong with marlin or cura. For example if your nozzle width is .4 and your shell is .8 then it will place the lines .2mm inward from the final edge (radius of nozzle) and extrude just the right amount to make lines .4mm thick. Cura is very sophisticated that way and corrects for nozzle width. Underextrusion: Try printing slower and hotter and thinner (15mm/sec .1mm layer 230C) as an experiment to eliminate this issue as slower and hotter almost always fix this. You only have to test this for a few layers of a print to realize if this matters. backlash: Very common on UMO and easy to eliminate. It can be because of high friction (belts stretch and head never quite reaches desired location) or it can be because something is loose. Friction is often the endcaps on the ends of the rods. Try loosening all of them a tiny amount and push the head around and see if it move more easily. Or if X and Y axes have different friction then concentrate on that issue. Belts too tight can cause extra friction also. Loose - most commonly the belts are too lose (what? belts too tight or too lose can both cause backlash? yes.). But other things can be loose. Without letting the steppers move (don't push hard enough to move stepeprs) push the head around in different directions - does it move? Is it loose?

You can change it live during a print in the TUNE menu or you can add the gcode to the appropriate spot in the gcode file. Whichever you do second takes precedence. Same for most settings such as fan speed. So for example if you set fan to 50% and then on the next layer a gcode sets it to 40% it will go to 40%. Most recent command wins.

What yellow shark said. Print it on it's side so that the side facing us in the photo above is now on the glass. Choose the option under support: support on buildplate.

Look in the machine settings. You can set the dimensions of your printer (diameter) in there.

Maybe your part isn't touching the glass - I've seen that before. Can you post the STL file somewhere and/or a screen shot of cura showing the bottom layer?

So in summary - stop using the stupid leveling procedure - just turn your 3 knobs counter clockwise (to raise the bed) by about a 1/3 full rotation and possibly adjust when it prints the bottom layer. You want the plastic to squish well into the glass.

There is a tradeoff everyone should know about. If you use the calibration card you will get as close as possible to nominal meaning when you print a bottom layer .3mm thick the nozzle will be exactly .3mm off the glass. this gives you parts as dimensionally accurate as possible - otherwise you get a tiny tiny tiny foot around the bottom of your part. The problem is parts don't stick well. One solution is to use the relatively new cura feature: "initial layer line width %" to 150%. But this may make your printer underextrude because it might not be able to force that much plastic through the nozzle. I usually just level without any paper at all such that the nozzle is barely touching the glass. This makes the bottom layer STICK LIKE HELL. and if you have the brim feature turned on then there is really no downside. But for small parts where I need them to be PERFECT dimensionally sometimes I level to the correct height. 95% of my prints are squished for good stick to the glass. But now for PET - now I'm afraid of ruining the glass so I would go somewhere in between.

Make a list of parts missing. Contact support. They will want to know what is missing so they can feedback to the people who create these kits. They will ship you the missing parts.

@ian - hey I miss you guy! I wish you were going to netherlands so I could meet you this summer. The forum is mostly busy with new people asking for help - nothing has changed there much but there are maybe 4 threads with AMAZING things going on. foehnsturm is particularly impressive in his feats: soluble support: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20293-any-experiences-with-dual-extrusion-and-pva#reply-144560 converting UMO or UM2 to dual printing without drips: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=1 tinker marlin (allows things like continuing after failed print and much more): https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7436-more-information-during-print get tinker marlin here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

If you have a neighbor with a Zortrax who is willing to come over to your house and get it working and fix it then definitely go with that. Otherwise I would go with the Ultimaker. Zortrax is slower from UM I hear from people who use both. A lot slower. maybe that guy is wrong somehow. And lately Zortrax support is very slow I hear. Zortrax I hear is amazing with ABS and Ultimaker is amazing with PLA.

I think Ultimaker is trying to get its resellers to do support but if not I think you should be able to get results from them directly. Have you considered using "skype out"? It's 2 cents per minute for a phone call. Ultimaker has pretty good people on phone support and typically they answer right away (during normal work hours in Netherlands time zone). Anyway, you may get better support on this forum anyway so try that also! I'll point this thread out to Sander VG.

heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor) You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds) The cause is either a wimpy heater (new UM2's, the plus and the plus kit, come with 35W - older ones came with 25W but there was a large variance and some were only 20W) or maybe you have an olsson block which is touching the fan shroud (usually on the bottom of the block touching the inside of the shroud). Some people only get the error when printing extra hot, extra fast. Or you might get the error when the fans come on. I disabled this feature (it's easy to do in Configuration.h if you know already how to build marlin) on my printer.

yes. You want tweak-at-z. Flow rate can be changed. It's a gcode. You can also change it on-the-fly from the TUNE menu.

So... "before the upgrade using PET". And after the upgrade also? Sounds like you changed 2 things - upgraded to "plus" and changed the nozzle to .25. I would switch to .4mm nozzle just to see if that is related. Other than that the only thing related to the upgrade would be your leveling position. Leveling makes a HUGE difference to how well parts stick to the glass. If you raise the glass just a little bit (rotate all 3 screws CCW by 1/4 turn) it might make a huge difference. Also keep the glass clean - maybe you got some oil on it from you hands. With PET most people have the problem that it sticks so well that tiny slivers of glass come off with the print. That's if you use PVA glue also (like hairspray, gluestick, wood glue). What temp is your bed? You want it around the glass temp of PET which I believe is around 90C maybe? 100C? I don't remember.