gr5

@warderoid - the main point is we need to see a photo. Usually I think I understand the poster, but then I see a photo and have to completely reverse every suggestion I made.

Consider printing this at 230C: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2 It must be done at 230C for a valid comparison. This test only works if your extruder skips - some of the newer UM2's rarely skip anymore - they tend to slip quite a bit before skipping. There are better tests but they are more complicated.

By the way I'm going to guess underextrusion. Try printing 10C hotter and at half your normal speed and see if it gets much better.

It won't let me look at the picture without creating a "one drive" account. Not interested, sorry. Please don't make me do any extra work. You can post here by starting a reply, then clicking right most icon, then second tab, then drag and drop an image onto the window.

I know, right? Kind of vague. Well means video transmitter is made by Immersion - they have 3 different transmitters here: http://www.immersionrc.com/fpv-products/ The frsky d4rii is both a receiver which sits on the quad and sends at least 4 signals to your controlling computer for the 4 control sticks on the transmitter (the controlling computer helps you keep the quad stable and typically has gyros built in as a minimum). The d4r-ii also can *transmit* telemetry (like say gps settings if you have a gps on your quad) but it sounds like that feature is not used. It's a very tiny light weight radio receiver though and is compatible with many different hand held transmitters (the thing with the joysticks).

Made 4 e-nable hands last weekend and shipped them off to "e-nable headquarters":

Here's a recent photo:

I hope MrWong comes back to this forum! It seems that many people have had trouble logging into the new forum. Anyway, I'd love to see a parts list. My quad is great but I'm thinking of making a FPV next. Those look so fun! And MrWong's design looks just like about what I'm thinking. I should post more pics of my quad. I flew it this past weekend - no crashes! (rare!). Got some good video!

@labern - could you explain this more? Something strange here. Or maybe @daid could explain. I thought if initial layer height was .1 then it would slice the first/bottom layer as a slice through the STL .1mm from the bottom. Regardless of layer height.

Oh, now your post is becoming more clear when I see the photo of the gear inside the gear that is not sticking. I don't think this has anything to do with retraction. It's just not sticking well. Your primary problem is probably just as cloakfiend said: print closer to the glass. Turn those three screws looser the same amount - quite a bit - maybe 1/4 turn. Counter clockwise as seen from below. Also what temp is your glass? You need at least 50C to have it cool slow enough that it makes a good contact with the glass (flows well) before freezing. Also you can get even better results with some PVA glue. You need a very very thin coat. So for example you can use woodglue mixed with water, hair spray, or glue stick thinned with water. For example with the glue stick make a few swipes with the glue stick covering about 1/4 of the area such that most of it has no glue stick. Then dip a small paint brush in water (or add a tablespoon of water to the bed) and spread that glue all around and let it dry on the hot bed and it should dry invisible. Also when you get the glass closer to the bed don't go too far or the bottom layer of the gears will be squished too flat and the gears won't mesh as well.

Are you talking about edges of parts that lift off the bed later? When you are printing upper layers? This happens a lot because as the upper plastic layers shrink it pulls hard inward and lifts the lower corners. There are many great and easy fixes to overcome this problem.

Did you watch it happen? that blob on top of your bottom layer looks like it was created when you started the print - the printer prints out some filament to get things started and sometimes it kind of sticks to the nozzle and then gets dragged around with the nozzle for a while until it eventually falls off and then later maybe the head hits it again and pushes it somewhere else. I always run over to the printer when I hear it starting and grab the initial filament and pull it - pulling extra fast as it moves to the start of the print (to make a thinner-than-thread, easily broken, safe strand).

From the photo it's really hard to tell but it looks pretty much fine. I'm not sure what you mean be "rough". You mean like sandpaper? Usually it prints very smooth so I'm thinking you mean something else but not sure what. You mean those lines that appear to be from the CAD model? Maybe you should crop the picture down to about 1/30th of what you have it cropped to now - just show a small sliver of the part that shows the rough spot - maybe an arrow pointing to the spot or is it everywhere? Is there nowhere that it *isn't* rough?

I could get you connected to USB but this won't help anything. You have a brand new printer and even printers 2 years old recognize files on the SD card. I suggest you forget about USB unless you have a different reason. If you really really want to connect USB start a new thread. Now to your problem - files not showing up on your SD card. I suggest we concentrate on that. Put the SD card into a PC and look at all the files. They should all end with ".gcode" but most likely the newer files you put on there don't. By default windows hides the extension of files so you might want to fix that in explorer in settings but not necessary as it should show the file "type" as gcode also. When you choose "PRINT" on the UM2 panel, it should list all files that end with ".gcode". If not then something is probably wrong with the SD card but much more likely the files don't end with ".gcode".

I know you are very experienced but I have to ask: What temp, speed, layer height were you using for that pink part? Keep in mind that the speed is controlled in like 7 places in Cura. Also what was your shell width set to? It looks like .8 but if it's actually .85 or .9 that would explain the problem. Also is flow rate at 100% in your filament settings in the um2go and flow at 100% in the um2go? Also is this pink filament more than half empty? And have you used this same roll of filament on another printer successfully?

I think percentages are better than offsets if you think about what you are trying to do and your goals for these offsets. The goal should be to print faster but still maintain some quality thing. When you change speeds you get over/underextrusion - for example if you are going at a higher speed and then slow down for the outer skin you can get some over extrusion at the outer skin right where it starts printing the outer skin. This can result in a slight thickening for short distance - or a major thickining. The amount it thickens won't be relative to the amount of speed change but by the percentage of speed change. For example the thickening should be identical if you transition from 100mm/sec to 50mm/sec versis if you transition from 70mm/sec to 35mm/sec. So the quality has more to do with the relative change in speed (2x in this case) and not the absolute change in speed (35 or 50mm/sec). But either way it would be a nice feature.

This looks like basic underextrusion. Your temp sensor may be off by 20C or so. Try testing your nozzle temp:

That way lowering your basic speed would help with underextrusion issues.

Or you could do percentage of Basic Speed (e.g. 150%) and show the actual value in gray outside the control: Inner Shell Percent of Basic speed ___150___ (75mm/sec)

https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues You will have to create a github account. Is it possible that when you transferred the file it lost the last line? I'm not sure if there is a carriage return after the last line and some editors don't like that. Also the last line is huge - like maybe 500 characters? Not sure. Maybe that freaked out some software you used at some point.

I just posted a 10 minute 50 line response. It didn't post! Damn it! Here are only 2 of the 6 items in my post: Make damn sure olsson block is not touching metal fan shroud. Slide print head to the front of the machine, look from behind and slide paper under it to be sure it is not touching. If touching raise the nozzle up higher with the round nut with holes. Check your firmware version. Here are some notes about "heater error": heater error You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

Okay - UM2. Well non-round holes are rare on UM2 because it has a belt tensioner built into each of the 4 sliding blocks. To get the tension to spread evenly you might have to loosen the pulleys on a particular belt - but only if the tension is very uneven. Even then I've printed for days with a belt that was loose on one side and quality was still excellent. I guess I'd like to see a photo of the circles you are talking about - particularly on the top layer - bottom layers have non-round holes for other reasons. Feel both short belt tension and long belt tension. You want the short belts probably a little bit tighter than the long belts. If the long belts are too tight you can cause excessive friction but I've never heard of this in a UM2. Push the head around - even push it by the nozzle to see if there is some play in the head itself (nozzle somehow loose?) There shouldn't be any play - any looseness will get translated into an equal amount of distance/error in your circles. Also see if friction is high. You should be able to use the smallest finger on each hand pushing on the side blocks at the same time and move the head that way. Friction should be exactly the same for X versus Y axis. To tighten short belts you have to loosen the 4 screws holding the motor, then push down hard on the motor while tightening the screws up again. Very easy to do. Having a rod slide by 1mm won't affect anything except the very corner of your bed and only slightly. It won't make round holes squarish at all. Having a loose screw on a pulley also won't cause round holes to be square - this instead causes parts to "shift" as you move up the layers such that printing a robot will be a crooked or tilted/leaning robot.

No! Don't remove anything! Certainly not the sides! You can take the whole upper stage of the UM apart without taking any sides off. In fact during assembly the sides are assembled first I believe. I can get to the grub screws on all of the upper pulleys just by pushing the head around until a set screw is facing straight out between the belts. Make sure you have the correct hex tool. You don't want to damage anything. They are all 2mm. I recommend you get a screwdriver style hex wrench with a ball end but I have ones without the ball end. I have adjusted these pulleys both with the screwdriver type tool and the L shaped tool. To get to the pulleys on the motors you have to remove the metal covers - 1 screw for each cover half way up one of the edges.

I haven't tried .25 nozzle yet but keep in mind that objects will print 2.6X slower because you have to squeeze plastic thorugh 2.6X smaller area hole (.4/.25)^2 = 2.56. So for example if you normally print .4mm nozzle .1 layer 70mm/sec at 220C (max recommended speed at this layer height and temp) then for .25mm nozzle, .1 layer you will probably be printing at 45mm/sec max and your traces are thinner so you have to do more passes to get the same shell width and it works out to about 2.6X longer to do the print. Also Cura recommends staying below 2/3 of the nozzle diameter so .16mm layer height should be around your max layer height. .05mm will hopefully work better! Plus you can print quite fast at .05mm layer height: 90mm/sec (but I'd keep it at 30mm/sec for max quality and I'd print cool like 190C). But again - I've never done it - just extrapolating based on what I know. There's probably other factors I haven't considered.

Also if your filament varies in diameter by a lot you can get this so try another filament.