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You said it started when changing the nozzle? Maybe the wires were damaged slightly? If the resistance increased between the thermocouple and the small board then it would be more sensitive to noise. My guess is the wire is almost broken. Probably right where it goes into the heater block. You could measure the resistance through the thermocouple with a volt meter. I've never tried this but I think it should be close to 0 ohms. If it is over 1000 ohms then that might explain the problem - you could jiggle the wiring and push and prod the wiring until the resistance comes back down. That could both fix the problem or find the bad spot.

First of all, uncheck the "homebuilt" heated bed because if you do that and then install cura it will install one that expects a specific, unusual heated bed design - the one that UM is about to sell (any day now?). However this is probably unrelated to your issue. I would just try a few more times. Also as a last resort, remove the arduino from the PCB and program it directly. Also consider using the arduino ide to install the hex file. Actually I'm not sure if you can do that without compiling it also which is a bit of work so maybe use pronterface to update the arduino?

Fortunately it is designed to be taken apart easily.

If you go to the folder where cura installed, there is a python file in there somewhere - a small one - that describes all the changes for that version of cura. It *is* unfortunate that it only pops up once and there's no way to get it back.

That's very strange. Is it even slicing? Do you see the progress bar zip quickly to the right? The material usage estimate is not an estimate. It is the exact amount commanded by the extruder stepper motor. It's only possible to use less material if the filament is slipping or skipping backwards. The time estimate is getting much more accurate lately - usually within a few percent. But if you change your acceleration settings on your printer, Cura won't know this. Also it is making a guess on your retraction distance, acceleration and retraction speed.

It should be closer than that. But none of the tables match your thermister exactly. But you should get within 20C. First you need a table of resistance to temperature conversion for your part. Honestly it might be easier to order a different thermistor. I looked for 5 minutes but couldn't find a table for your part. The B25/50C of 3990K tells you the shape of the curve. It is saying you can use a Beta value of 3990K and it will be reliable for temperature between 25C and 50C. That's good because your heated bed won't be much hotter than that (100C?). None of the resistors here have that beta: http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor Really you should be able to find a datasheet from the manufacturer. STEP 2: Turn on power and measure the voltage across the thermistor. The voltage formula is: vtherm = (Rtherm/(4700+Rtherm) X 5V Or solving for Rtherm Rtherm = 4700 V / (5-V) So in other words at 25C Rtherm should be 100K and vtherm should be 4.775 volts. Make sure all that is working - make sure the voltage is correct for room temp. I suspect that step will fail - I suspect your 4.7k is loose or is actually 4.8k or something. Or one of your wires is not a good connection. Once you figure all that out it's time to fix the table. Unfortunately your thermister doesn't match any of the tables. You will have to make your own table. The tables are in thermistortables.h. You can edit this file easily and insert your own table. It comes with instructions and reprap.org has spreadsheets for calculating a table also I think. Then you have to build Marlin: First get the source code files here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Then edit Configuration.h – this is by far the hardest step and it's not bad. I recommend you go here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ and use that website only to get the Configuration.h file. Then run winmerge or some other diff program to compare the latest ErikZalm version of Configuration.h to the one from robotfuzz which is usually a few months behind. Edit the ErikZalm version to match the robotfuzz generated version. Make any other edits as necessary. It sound complicated but it is extremely clear and well commented. Sometimes with paragraphs of explanation. configuration.h file detailed explanation: http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/ Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

Did you fix the sudden shift? It's usually caused by the set screws not tight enough but there are other causes. You could mark the shaft and pulley with a permanent marker on the 2 pulleys on the short belt but it's probably a problem at the Y stepper. sensebellum please update your location in your preferences to indicate what country you are in. That curling is complicated and not easy to fix. Mostly more fan helps but you are probably already at 100%. There is an hours worth of videos and discussion and reading and a few solutions but you probably won't like them. You can use a hot putty knife to repair that curling during printing if you want. That works but is time consuming when you could be doing something else. Anyway, curling discussion and solutions (note that the first few guesses as to the cause were wrong). http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Your curling is worse on the left side because of where the outer edge starts and ends and the direction of movement (e.g. if it start coming inwards towards right side from the left then it won't curl).

I'm not telling, sorry. Is North York in the UK? or USA? I thought digikey was only usa but York sounds like england.

It appears to be validated now though. You must have found the validation email.

Diese Löcher werden durch den Einzug Überspringen rückwärts durch zu viel Druck in dem Druckkopf verursacht. Die häufigste Ursache ist das Drucken zu schnell oder zu kalt. Es gibt Tabellen und Grafiken, wie schnell Sie in der Lage, zu erwarten, zu drucken. Zum Beispiel ist 100mm/sec .1 mm Schichthöhe 230C eine sichere Temperatur und Geschwindigkeit. 75mm/sec 0,3 mm Schichthöhe bei 220 ist viel zu schnell Lautstärke. Allerdings ist eine weitere mögliche Ursache verschlungenen Faden. Ihre Filament kann stecken bleiben werden. Ich empfehle Ihnen, legte es auf den Boden, wie dieses Bild und überprüfen Sie es gelegentlich für Verwicklungen.

Yes. It comes on even before the lights do. Is it noisy? Some people reported it as being loud. Mine is so quiet I can't hear it from just a few feet away.

The colder the temperature, the slower you have to print. So if 185C, .2mm layer had a few holes, 185C, .1mm layer should be much easier (printing at half the volume speed). Or try 190C and go up to 20mm/sec maybe?

Find a new girlfriend. Does she know that PLA is made from corn oil? It's also "biodegradable" but I think you have to leave it in a pond for 10 years. google "filastruder".

You are very likely correct.

The UM Original has a thermocouple. It's made by connecting 2 different pieces of metal together. I think typically they are twisted together wires. I'm sure something can affect it. Maybe corrosion? Maybe metal plating? I don't' know. But you would be surprised how the wiring seems fine and you can poke it and prod it but it still has a problem suddenly for no apparent reason yet replacing with the second set of wires fixes the problem.

The thick rods or the thin rods? That's pretty bad. If the error is on the thick rods definitely throw them away. This will indeed cause stress and friction and binding. On the thin rods it will cause exactly as much error on the part as on the rods. So if the error is on the far left of the X rod then parts will have a bend to them on the far left of the print bed. By the same amount. And there will be no extra friction or binding as long as the bearings slide okay. If the thin rods are overly bent then you cant slide the bearings along the rod.

Sorry I didn't see this post before! Did you fix the problem? None of your download links work anymore. Please use hosting services that last for decades and not weeks. Look at the part in Cura in "XRAY" view. If you seen anything red then it needs to be fixed. Colors are determined by passing a line through all the polygons. If the line intersects an even number of surfaces the color is a shade of blue or white. If odd it is a shade of red. Odd intersections implies hole in a surface or an extra surface.

If you can order just the part in the store then yes they will charge you. But if the teflon part isn't available by itself in the store then I'm 80% sure they will give it to you free.

That would be nice! If even one PLA is failing at 5mm at 230C and you have experienced underextrusion in "real" parts you *probably* should look into some remedies. Especially remedies involving cleaning nozzle, inspecting and replacing or redrilling out the isolator, and putting the filament on the floor instead of the rear of the printer. @svanbennekom. What material is the black feeder on the back of the UM2? I thought it was ABS originally but now I'm told it is glass impregnated teflon. I get little pieces of it traveling along my filament and out through the nozzle all the time although they are so tiny it's not much of a problem (not really visible in my prints even with white filament).

Let me make something more clear - if the temp sensor is off by 100C then when the nozzle says it is at 50C it might actually be at 150C. And when you think it is at 210C it might actually be at 310C. That's why it is important to know if the sensor is working correctly. If the wires are extremely loose (barely making contact) it can easily have this much error.

I'm afraid you are going to damage your printer. I would not let it get hot enough to melt make "steam" until you get this fixed or figured out. There are parts in the print head that will be destroyed at 300C and the head can get up there no problem. So do the boil test. You can find water somewhere and transport it on your finger if you don't have paper towels or q tips or drinking cups. Another test. Go to CONFIGURATION ADVANCED MOVE MATERIAL. This will heat up to 220C. Spin the knob and watch the filament move up and down. move it up first to make sure it is moving. Then move it down slowly until it seems to stop. Then wait for the temp to hit 100C or so and move the material down some more. Pay attention to the temp and the tip of the nozzle and see where the filament starts leaking out. As soon as it does cut power (or just exit move material menu). It should start leaking around 170C. 150C at the lowest I think. I haven't done this test myself but if you do the test and post your result I will try it also.

This is the thread I think you mean: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3904-flexible-filaments-comparison/?p=50375 Lots of good information there. Blizz did you replace your feeder with the one IRobertI designed? I think that is an important step.

Nylon 140C (according to above article but note that bukobot uses 1.75mm filament). ABS 130C (I only did this once but it was 2 days ago and I think that was the temp that worked. It worked just as well as with PLA which I think works better a little cooler than 90C although I usually do 90C). Recently I started to always do atomic method or "cold pull" when I remove filament. Always. It makes changing colors much faster and keeps my nozzles clean. Also if switching from ABS back to PLA it's a must. On the UM2 I do the cold pull most of the way through the bowden then let it cool for 20 seconds before pulling through the feeder. And I pull it very fast through the feeder so the stepper has some momentum and is less likely to break off the tip which sucks when it happens but hasn't happened last 15 pulls or so.

The PWM signal on the fan causes the wiring to act as radio antennas and the electromagnetic radiation can interfere with the probe wires which also act as a receiving antenna. Again, Cura changed how the fan turns on in a recent version. Did you upgrade Cura just before problems started? There are other common temperature issues. The wiring at the *top* of the print head is supposed to go through a black piece of plastic (delrin) for strain relief. That 20mm length of wire at the top of the head has a very high failure rate after months of printing. You can test by pushing the head to the 4 corners and see if temperature suddenly changes. Also try pushing gently in many different directions on the wire on the head. The solution for that problem is to replace the wiring or use the "nozzle #2" wiring that is just sitting there doing nothing (replace at both ends of course).

Ignorieren Sie die Nivellierung. Stattdessen drehen Sie die vordere rechte Schraube 1/4 Drehung und die gegenüberliegende Ecke wird die entgegengesetzte Richtung zu gehen. Dann testen Sie wieder mit Ihrem Druck.