gr5

I don't see this in the pictures so I will assume this is solved. If not try thinner layer of glue and any temp from 45C to 60C is fine for sticking to glass. To thin the glue just pour a little water on it. Wait 4 seconds and spread it around with paper towel or tissue. It's a miracle you can print overhangs at all. The "bad" parts of the robot appear to be the overhangs. You can get perfect overhangs but you must do a few things. 1) Fans! Make sure the fans are working - both fans. Make sure they blow and don't suck. Make sure they are at 100% before it gets to the first overhang. 2) Temp. 210C is great. Stick with that for now. 3) Print speed. The slower you go the better the quality. I'm perfectly happy with what you call "pathetic" so I print at 75mm/sec all the time. But if you want an absolutely stunning print 35mm/sec is the top speed and 20mm/sec is probably best. So for stunning prints you need lots of patience (which I don't have). Here's the best robot I am able to do: Details of settings for that print are here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/?p=28588

Garry what country are you in? (please both post an answer and also update your location settings). I might be able to get you one if you are near netherlands or north america. For example Blizz (above) is about to get a free one and he lives in Belgium. (well it's not free - he has to pay with a few cookies)

Please update your country in your settings "location" field. There's lots of possible reasons. First go to xray view. Any areas in red are a potential problem - they indicate that there is either a hole in the model or an extra internal wall that can confuse the slicer. You might have to fix the model but usually you can play with the "fix horrible" checkboxes in the expert settings. Usually A or B fixes it. Or some other combination of all the checkboxes. There are 11 combinations (never check A and B at the same time). If none of the 11 combinations fix it you have to fix the model. There are other possible causes (polygons smaller than .1mm in rare cases can confuse the slicer) but it's probably just a non-manifold model (not solid).

Wow. Nope - not a problem for me. I have mine on a very slippery plastic table. No modifications.

Often if you let the power supply cool disconnected for a few hours it might come back to life.

well it looks a bit high (meaning nozzle too far from glass). Start printing and just turn the screws counter clockwise while it is printing just to see what happens. There is a bug in Marlin that is fixed in the absolute latest cura that you can download that fixes 2 bugs related to leveling. Or you can just never level again and only play with the 3 screws. having it wad up on the nozzle isn't a disaster but it should stick flat to the glass. Other things to try: heat glass to any temp from 45C to 65C. Clean the glass with a glass cleaner. put a think coat of glue stick on the glass. But the glue shouldn't be mandatory just to get the first layer to look good.

I see again, chris, you are not following this topic so any replies will probably be ignore for another month. Click "follow this topic" if you start a new topic so you can get an email if someone replies.

At the top of this you should click "follow this topic" and then you will get emails whenever someone adds to it.

No matter which printer you select in this tool you have to give it the min and max safe values. I recommend 1,1,1 for the minimums and 200,200,200 for the maximums. The UM2 can print a little bit larger objects than the UM. But 200mm is a very safe limit for both printers.

@michel - none of those settings are important as long as you only print one STL file at a time. It's when you want to print multiple objects "one at a time" that these numbers have a purpose - it allows Cura to figure out which order to print them in and if it can do them one at a time or if it has to print them all at once.

gcodes for the UM Original work fine on the UM2. The generated gcode is pretty safe on the UM2.

If someone wants to install a fresh copy of every Cura from 13.00 to the latest and get screenshots like this... Well everyone would be grateful. And I would link to the post anytime anyone asked about release notes.

printer porn! It's so beautiful. It's so clean and new! I don't know either answer but it all looks good to me. I have a similar gap. You might want to loosen the nozzle a bit and screw down the other brass threaded part into the heater block some more and then retighten the nozzle such that you know they are touching inside. It's obvious when there is a small gap betwen the heater block and the nozzle. The gap in your first photo is normal and is visible in the assembly instructions. The issue with the nut in the fan shroud - I don't have the black part in below photo (that's a recent addition) so I didn't have that problem. But it sounds like you managed to get it to grab part of a thread maybe? If not you could take the black piece off (in bottom photo) and file it down thinner a tiny bit where that thumb screw goes through it.

More: http://johnflower.org/tutorial/make-mountains-blender-height-maps

AH! Here you go: http://wiki.blender.org/index.php/Doc:2.6/Manual/Textures/Influence/Material/Displacement

I've heard people discuss this feature but I don't remember what cad it was. I think it was blender but I'm not positive. I do remember that there were 2 almost identical sounding features where one made it *look* like the surface had texture and the other actually changed the texture in the STL. bitmap bumps or bitmap surface or bitmap texture something like that? Actually I know a package that does this but doesn't creat STL files: kerkythea. For example you can create a flat wall and add a photo of bricks - but even better you can add a bitmap file that says where the bricks stick out and where the mortar lines are and it 3 dimensionally modifies the wall so that lighting and shadows look perfect from any angle. In kerkythea you can say for example if black is "in" or "out" on the surface and by how much distance. But kerkythea doesn't then convert this to STL - it only uses it internally for it's lighting engine.

Also your part is sticking well to the tape but the tape not to the bed. So get wider tape. I use 3 inch wide painters tape. Illuminarti has 6 inch wide I think.

By the way, it's better to halt the print as soon as this happens. Then figure out the height where it fails on the ulticontroller (or other methods) then edit your gcode to skip all the begining parts and then print this new "top portion" gcode file. More details here: continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um²-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Your problem isn't with the belts. It's the pulleys. There is a small set screw in each pulley. It needs to be as tight as all hell. The problem pulley is on the X axis. The most likely slipping pulley is the one on the X stepper. The second most likely pulley is the other one on the short belt. But there are 6 pulleys (not 4!) on the X axis and it could be any of them. While you are doing this consider marking the shaft and pulley with tiny dots so you can see which one is slipping if it happens again. Also consider using the shiny set screws that come as spares. These have a pointier tip and hold onto the shaft better although I still am using the black ones and I haven't had a slip since the first week.

All axes? Can you take a picture of the ulticontroller when the message is visible? This sounds very strange. Marlin has software endstops so you only need 3 endstops (not 6). So I would start by unplugging the other 3 endstops (z bottom, X right, Y rear). To get all 3 endstops to trigger at the same time implies a bad PCB or bad Arduino. Maybe there is a bad ground somewhere? The circuitry is incredibly simple - just wiring right into the arduino:

Oh - and check "cool head lift" so you can get the tip of the spear to come out much better.

Wow - that's some serious stringing. Please don't post imgur pics. I don't think they maintain pics for 10 years and someone else might have the same question as you in the future. Please post it here on this forum. Don't use those low/med/high quality things in Cura. They probably don't do retraction. You need retraction to remove stringing. Also you probably need to print that color of PLA 10C cooler than whatever you were doing. The numbs might be from the model. It might have excessive polygons. I would reduce the qty of polygons to around 10k maybe (or at least reduce by 10X) by using this procedure - it can make the model come out MUCH better: Meshlab: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

The main thing for a good STL is the xray check. If you see no red then the model is pretty good and unchecking all the fix horribles should give you a good result. Also try not to let polygons be smaller than .1mm. Cura slices the polygons into a layer and gets a set of lines in no particular order (stl doesn't say which polygons are connected) so then cura strings the lines up into loops. Sometimes two unrelated loops have a point too close together. I've seen this a lot. Cura picks the wrong point and it comes out all wrong. This only happens when you have lots of details much too small to print.

Try unchecking all the "fix horrible" checkboxes. "type A" is probably checked and is probably filling your hole. They are in the expert menu. The problem probably relates to "surface normals" which tell cura which side of a polygon faces air and which side faces interior.

Run cura and run the start of the wizard and go through the step where you test all the limit switches. Then exit before it gets to the bed leveling procedure. Then install pronterface: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ It's free. And simple to use and you can move each servo small or large amounts. e.g. you can move X servo 1mm and see if it spins slightly.