gr5

BE VERY CAREFUL. Do not remove the old probe without removing the thin screw first. You have to take the head apart - remove 4 thumb screws. Then remove the small fan, then take out the white isolator. Next unscrew the nozzle by rotating the nut with the holes but ONLY DO THIS AT 100C to 180C or at least do it very very gently. The plastic can get in the threads and if you turn too hard you will easily break this brass nut. It is almost as thin as paper. Then you need to remove the tiny long screw (hex 1.5mm I think?). That thin screw holds in the temperature probe. You might be able to remove the screw first!

Oh wait - is it the vertical lines you want to disappear? I think you need to be more clear what you want. The vertical lines are not typical. I'm wondering how many polygons you have for that circle and how fast you were printing. Cura can only plan 10 to 20 line segment moves in advance and it needs to be ready to come to a complete stop so if there are too many polygons it slows down and can cause some overextruding like in your picture. Also temperature affects the vertical lines - I can send you a photo if you want. Or you might be on the edge of underextruding (printing too cold or too fast).

If you are only printing cylinders, then yes, .2mm is probably better. And you can make the lines disappearwith many different techniques. The best would be vapor solute. Is that what you want? The tiny lines to disappear even when you shine light off it perfectly like in the photo?

If you print a "wall" cura will print "both sides" of the wall. One pass in one direction, a second pass in the other direction. Always. The only way to get only one pass would be to write your own gcode. You can do it with excel spreadsheets and some text editing commands (substitute/replace). I recommend this over trying to get Cura to do this very specialized function. I recommend also you get repetier host and send your ultimaker some gcodes manually to get a feel for how AMAZINGLY SIMPLE this printer is to control. G0 and G1 do the same thing on Ultimakers - they "go". pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ It's free and very easy to use. It connects to your printer through USB. You can send one command at a time like G0 X5 and it will move only X axis to position 5mm. More details in anon's post above. Or google "marlin gcodes".

how to check it? Oh - you can't really - you just replace it - it's only a few cents. But I doubt it's the darlington. I'd check the 5v supply going to the print head first (with fan running at 50%) to see if the voltage looks really spikey and ugly on the oscilloscope (lots of noise). Or replace all the relevant wiring with shielded wires. The shielding will block a large amount of the radio waves. This would be the 3 wires to the test head, the 2 wires to the probe and the 2 wires to the fan.

For um original it's Q4. Kind of in the middle of the schematic on the left. It looks like a transistor on the schematic. It's labeled clearly on the circuit board and it's positioned near the fan connector. It is a 3 lead device. Where to get circuit diagram: ULTIMAKER1 The circuit diagram, and board layout are here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB There is a zip file at the top. It contains the "brd" file which is the layout. Also the "sch" file which is the schematic. Both files can be opened by eagle software which is free: http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/ ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

If you want really beautiful prints you have to have the extruder never stop and never slow down and never speed up. That's really hard to do. You want all non extruding moves at as fast as possible (250 or 300mm/sec). You want acceleration high. You want jerk high. Also you might want to round all your corners so they are smooth and the head never comes to a stop. Printing really slow helps because you can get up to full speed on the extruder that much faster.

Something is not level. I recommend you get pronterface: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ It's free and easy to use. Set Z to .1 or whatever you think your paper thickness is (typical printer paper is about .1mm) then move the XY head around to many parts of the print bed - Try 9 points maybe in a grid. Or 16 points. Test it all over and adjust with screws and test again. Maybe your gantry rods are bent. Maybe your glass is under too much pressure and bends while in the bed. But I suspect you just have the leveling off by a bit. I also recommend the bottom layer of your raft be .3mm so that leveling to an accuracy of about 1mm is fine. You can set Z to .1 by homing the Z and then do gcode: g0 Z0.1 You can then turn off all steppers and push the head around by hand but careful you don't bump the Z or you have to re-home it.

Yes, I thought of something similar but never mentioned it. Each layer or occasionally throughout the gcode file there should be information about how far into the print cura thinks you are (time-wise). Then Marlin can do it's calculation based on that. Because some layers are large and slow, and some layers are small and fast. Cura can include this information throughout the gcode (it doesn't have to be per layer - it could instead be every 60 seconds worth of gcode). Even fancier - Cura could include qty of retractions for the remainder of the gcode and how long it thought they would take and Marlin could see how long they *really* take and adjust accordingly. Similar with other settings. For example Cura could include the assumed acceleration and how much faster it would be if acceleration is 50% faster and Marlin, knowing actual acceleration, could interpolate based on those 2 values. Same with Jerk setting. Same with feedrate adjuster (Cura could say if feedrate is at 150% how much faster it thinks the part would print - note that it's not linear because a lot of the movement time is restricted by jerk and acceleration settings).

You should concentrate on getting the temperature reading to work. Do you know what kind of thermistor you got with the kit? The software you need is here - but you have to choose a thermistor: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ Once you get the hex file you can use cura to install it. Also you need to install a 4.7K resistor. Did you do that step? This post shows a photo of where the resistor goes and how to hookup a typical (but the heat side of things are all different) heated bed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6318-heated-bed-temperature/ By the way, the UM typically puts out 19V, not 12V and most people use a separate power supply for the bed, but you don't necessarily have to and one thing at a time.

ultimaker2 assembly manual - click "raw" to download the pdf: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

You can completely remove the bed without taking off any dibond. You will have to remove the delrin caps underneath the vertical rods on the bottom to get the vertical rods out. But you should remove the heated bed cable first.

When she says "high" I think she is talking about Y axis. If you want to print very thin lines you can do this by lowering the "shell" thickness. I have been printing a lot of text recently and I did a lot of experiments and you can tell cura to use a shell of .3mm or .2mm and it will print much thinner. You might also need to increase the flow a little bit. You will need very good first layer leveling and I recommend the finest adjustment to be done only by turning leveling screws and not to touch the bed leveling procedure.

He said it was fine at 100% fan.

This question was asked many times when the auto-update feature was added. Many people loved the feature and many people hated it. It turned out that all the people who hated it did so because of various bugs that locked up their computer while it was computing. I suspect you found a new bug. The program should never become unresponsive. Especially while slicing. Maybe you can provide more details and see if other's can duplicate it? It may be a mac thing or something very specific to your computer such as antivirus program, or SD card issue.

Oh. Or the 5v signal that goes to the small circuit board might not be a steady 5v. You would need an oscilloscope to check that. It think you should just go for 100% fan. I always do 100% fan for PLA and the only reason I turn it on gradually is so the nozzle PID controller doesn't let the nozzle temp drift too much as the fan comes on.

It could also be the darlington transistor that turns the fan on and off. It might be turning it off too fast/abruptly which causes higher frequency radio signals. I don't know - it seems more likely that an aging darlington would switch more slowly thus getting hotter but creating less high frequency radio.

You could use a liquid filled shock absorber. Or pneumatic shock absorber like those on screen doors. Connect it to the leading edge of the bed and to the floor of the bed. Seems drastic.

So... 8X? Well if the downard acceleartion gets above 1G (and I suspect it does) then you should be able to put a small box or bag of sand on the bed and that should dampen it quite a bit. If you use a box, you need to only fill it half way - it's important to have an air gap so the sand can fly up inside the box. The vibration energy should turn into extremely mild heating of the sand and dampen the movement drastically. If it doesn't dampen it fast enough then probably you need a bigger box of sand. It probably won't help at all once acceleration is damped to less than 1G.

No. The only way is to create your own brim in cad. sorry. Maybe someday...

I finally saw your pictures. This is *not* a sudden shift so it might not be the screws. But definitely tighten the one on the x motor. And actually see if you can slide the pulley closer to the motor. Someone had trouble with their brand new UM2 where the pulley on the motor was touching the side of the UM2 and was causing this same lean issue although for them it was the Y axis. So definitely look for the short belts rubbing the side of the UM2 somewhere. And check for possibly the larger rods (two on the X axis) possibly being too tight against the ends. When you loosen a Y pulley on the long belts (there's 4 pulleys) then can rotate on the axis freely but also they can slide along the rod. Make sure they aren't too tight against the side of the UM2. This can cause extra friction.

Sounds like you managed to crash the slicer then. Maybe you have too many polygons? You might want to reduce the qty of polygons. Do you have like millions of polygons? Or more like thousands? Daid who wrote Cura posted a partial answer up above - you might want to read it again. I don't really understand your question. gcode doesn't have any time in it as far as I know. It has feedrate (F command) which is the speed of the 4 steppers in mm/minute (not mm/sec). If you have a UM2 then it ouputs E values in mm^3 and if you have UM Original it outputs in mm of filament at the feeder.

You should really start a new thread. One of your axes slipped - which one was it? X or Y? Do you remember how the bunny was sitting on the bed? It's important to know which axis needs fixing. There was a sudden shift. There are several causes but when the shift is sudden like this it is usually caused by a pulley that is slipping. Usually one of the short belt pulleys (there are 2 short belt pulleys for each axis) or a long belt pulley (4 of those) but much more likely the short belt pulleys. And most likely of all the pulley on the stepper motor. So figure out which axis it was, then remove the cover for that stepper motor. It's just one screw to remove a corner panel over a stepper motor. Then push the head around until you can see the tiny set screw and tighten the hell out of it. I believe it is a 2mm hex wrench. don't strip it! If you can't get to the set screw then you have to remove the motor and if you do that then you should take the time to mark the pulley and the shaft so that if it moves again you can prove which one slipped.

It's a platinum part. It's not a thermistor. It's an RTD. It's 100 ohms at 0C. All PT100 parts have identical tables that conver temperature to resistance. So this is an easy part to replace. If you use google (not the search here) to search for pt100 and restrict results to this forum you will find part numbers and such for replacement. This is not an expensive part and they come in all shapes and sizes.

If you use frogtape it helps immensely to remove the waxy top coat using some isopropyl (aka rubbing) alcohol found in any store that sells bandages. I print ABS right on the glass with some blue can aquanet hairspray at 110C. And use a brim - critical cura feature for holding down parts.